I love the way my truck looks and rides right now. It has a 4" RCD kit in the front and stock in the rear. The tires are 325/60/18. The two reasons I am trying to decide whether or not to remove the lift is I am not happy with the power that the truck has when towing.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273792

The other reason I am trying to decide on this is because of how strict GM is getting regarding the warranties and trying to void them. It seems like every other thread on here is related to GM screwing around on warranties for things that should have bearing on the warranty, but GM is just trying to "save money." The very last thing that I need is to have a tranny problem and GM say "Your warranty is no good because of the lift"

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/racerngr1/Lifted2.jpg

Aslong as you take care of it and dont beat it you wont have any major issues till well after 100000 miles I gaurentee they dont replace very many Allisons under warrenty and if they did they would lower the warrenty term

^^ well said

as far as the power when towing...re-gear

Agreed with the above but I'll buy your lift if you remove it. Plus, I thought RCD was a 6" kit?

Yep RCD only makes a 6"

As Cujo said you can regear...but those are not very tall tires. After reading your other post I think somethings up with you motor. With the massive torque curve there should be no problem towing whatsoever.

My 5.3 avalanche (same chassi as the burb) towed my 28' boat like shit. Towed it 100mi with the dmax last week @ 75mph and it did not even downshift to 5th up large hills.

They would have to prrove that the lift caused the tranny failure before voiding your warranty. You have consumer rights just like everyone. If they threaten to void it contact a lemon law attorney and let the dealership talk to them. I just got my ford 6.0 lemoned and it had a 6 inch lift. My attorney told me to contact him anytime in the future if chevy tries some crazy stuff like voiding a warranty.

To answer your question, NO!

When your towing use tow/haul and keep it in M on 5............Maybe invest in a tuner? I run my PPE on level 2 when towing. On my last camping/boating trip I loaded the bed FULL of gear and hooked up the boat. When we left town I went to the CAT scales and the whole rig/boat weighed 15,500 lbs. When towing I watch my pyro gauge. I can manually downshift to get the rpms up a little and lower my egt's. Works perfect. Also, get a Mike L tranny cooler. That has helped a TON! My trans temp runs about 150 when towing.

I also say regear. I think people say get a 4.56 for 325s but im not sure

X2 if its for sale let me know.

To answer your question, NO!

When your towing use tow/haul and keep it in M on 5............Maybe invest in a tuner? I run my PPE on level 2 when towing. On my last camping/boating trip I loaded the bed FULL of gear and hooked up the boat. When we left town I went to the CAT scales and the whole rig/boat weighed 15,500 lbs. When towing I watch my pyro gauge. I can manually downshift to get the rpms up a little and lower my egt's. Works perfect. Also, get a Mike L tranny cooler. That has helped a TON! My trans temp runs about 150 when towing.
Running in M and 5 disables the grade braking and cruise braking features (those are two of the best reasons to tow with an Allison). May I suggest leaving it in Auto, and using M and 5 only if you are hunting between 6th and 5th gear.

Re-Gearing the truck will make up the deference in the tire size. The investment will help you gain better mpg and keep your egt's down and decrease the wear on the tranny. Why, because when you re-gear you will be putting your truck back into it's designed rpm range and you can do anything better for your truck when using it to pull and heavy load.

Also I will add....

You can use your "M" mode and shift per rpm but do know that you will see a big jump in rpm between 4th and 5th. I didn't have time to install my rear 4:56's in my dually before SEMA and I towed a mild size trailer with 35's and in 5th my truck luged out BIG TIME then if I dropped it down to 4th I was running alittle high in RPM. Now we have the gears in the truck, it purrs along in 5th at 1800rpms @ 60mph on 35's and 4:56's.

Re-Gearing the truck will make up the deference in the tire size. The investment will help you gain better mpg and keep your egt's down and decrease the wear on the tranny. Why, because when you re-gear you will be putting your truck back into it's designed rpm range and you can do anything better for your truck when using it to pull and heavy load.

How do you adjust the computer for the different size tires? Can the dealer do it or do I have to buy a programmer? I am trying to avoid buying the programmer at all cost because of saving my warranty. That is the other reason I am contemplating taking off the lift.

How do you adjust the computer for the different size tires? Can the dealer do it or do I have to buy a programmer? I am trying to avoid buying the programmer at all cost because of saving my warranty. That is the other reason I am contemplating taking off the lift.

You can use just a tire re-can tool. We offer them that have NO tuning just used for tires. That is what the dealers use on there trucks or they use a Tech2 if you know someone that has one.

Really it just comes down to you building the truck to best perform so there is less reason to need a dealer to warranty anything. I have been doing this for many years and in the past 4 or so years since the dealers have tried to jump on board of doing there own lifted truck to better there sales many dealers will tell you all kinds of funny story's. When it comes down to it if your suspension fails or drive train do to a lift it is because of mis use or not upgrading the proper components. So I guess what I am saying is don't over think your self and really just stick to the basics of off setting your upgrades with the proper added up grades to BEST utilize your truck properly. Alot of people get away with out doing all the other upgrades but it's one of two, either you do it when it is time or before it's time.

Hey you can feel good about one thing, at least we are not talking about a FORD. Hahaha...GM/Chevy owners have it WAY easier with problems adding mod's and needing to make sure they have a warranty. What comes first problems or needing the warranty.

Re-gear, get a good programmer and find a good dealership that will work WITH you when you need to have it worked on...

Running in M and 5 disables the grade braking and cruise braking features (those are two of the best reasons to tow with an Allison). May I suggest leaving it in Auto, and using M and 5 only if you are hunting between 6th and 5th gear.

I don't get it. If I put my truck in M I can turn on the tow/haul mode and my truck always shifts down for braking if I let off the gas or anything. It acts the exact same way if I'm in auto with tow/haul on. Am I missing something?:confuzeld

x4 or so on re-gear

i say regear it or take it off. i was not happy with the towing either and i figured i would go faster in the 1/4 mile.