We just purchased a 26' gooseneck horse trailer with living quarters that when fully loaded can weigh 14,000#. I have a 1995 2500 6.5 TD truck with 116,000 miles on it that we pull it with. It does alright on the flat and on rolling hills but when you start pulling any good size hills you slow down quickly, then on some hills we have to put her in four wheel drive low so we don't overheat her. We don't normally have the full weight in there (12-13,000 most of the time) but we want her to pull it better. Do you guys have any suggestions? And do you think with some minor mods we can actually pull this trailer pretty good at least for a couple of years then we will purchase a new truck but we would like to pull with this one for the time being. What do you think?

:eek: :o: :grd:

I would get a K&N air filter, then remove the cat and muffler. I could not believe the difference. I have heard that replacing the downpipe and crossover help as well. For the money , I invested $75.00 filter & cat/ muffler removal, I have been amazed.

The 1st mod is exhaust. If you want to start cranking up the boost after that - gauges are a MUST

Take some time to read about 6.5 improvements, in the FAQ's area, listed in required order to safely preserve your truck's functionality.

They are an absolute must for towing, and must be installed in listed sequence.

How to I get this FAQ's page with this info?

Its the 5th stick thread titled Frequently asked questions about the 6.5 TD or you can use the following link.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18282

:thankyou2

dieselchick, are you the same one on the dieselquack site? Just checking.

I would just go ahead and get a chip, guages, cooling mods and the intercooler or water injection system. Not cheap but you are hauling heavy and this is about the only way I see you being able to do it without blowing up the 6.5.
Another thing is replace the harmonic balancer as it has caused many problems.

Cha-ching!

Open the Exhaust.
3"Downpipe and crossover's for $85 (21st centuary exhaust)
Then put a stright pipe back (no soot trap/muffler/axle bends if possible)
Make sure you don't have a plastic snorkel in the fenderwell.

Get boost and pyro gauges
TM/spring on wg or resisted MAP/aftermarket prom.

The harder you work a 6.5L the more parts you will put on it to keep it going.

I know it's cha ching but the weight she is hauling there is no way it will last without some sort of intercooling, water or air to air.
Add all the parts up and then decide, keep the truck and spend the money or just sell it and get a better suited one all equiped.

Joey D; Yes I was on the Diesel Doctor forum but I was not really getting straight answer because everyone was accusing someone of being a stupid troll. I am about to invest a little over a $1,000 into this truck so it can pull our trailer more comfortably for a couple of years until we purchase either a new dodge 6 speed or a GMC Duramax we are undecided right now and plus it will probably come down to whom we can get the best price from. I have talk to some different places and they all feel that will some mods (exhaust, new water pump, fan clutch and a chip) I should be able to pull this thing halfway decent and not damage my motor. $1,000 dollars now is still less then a new truck payment. It does pull it now at stock without too much problem, we just know that when we hit some really steep hills (in the mountains) we just put her in 4x4 drive low and let her climb it at her own pace. The good part is that I do have one of the best transmissions that GM ever made in it. I just trying to get a variety of opinions and find different places to look into purchasing equipment, the first place I came across was SSDiesel and they were the only place I had come across then I came upon the Dieseldoctor forum where people were saying they were scammers so I needed to know for sure.

Thank you for your imput I do appreciate it and am taking it into consideration.

Diesel Dr is really a Diesel Quack spend much time there and you can get all messed up.

Diesel Dr is really a Diesel Quack spend much time there and you can get all messed up.
:exactly:

when is the Quacker season open???

I am thinking of starting with the exhaust seeing how that seems to be majority thing. My question is SSDiesel has a 4" exhaust should I go with that one or stay with 3" what is your suggestion. I have a local fellow who make stainless steel 3" that people are really happy and the 4" isn't stainless steel so I am unsure of how long it will last or hold up. Anybody have any imput on SSDiesel's exhaust.

I have the exact same truck with the exact same issues. I also had a similar budget for mods. I was amazed at the difference when I went to the 3" straight exhaust with a low resistance air filter. I was told by my muffler guy that my downpipe was OK so I only changed from the flange back. I believe that unless you are going to mess with boost pressure, that there is no advantage for a 4" over a 3". After the intake/exhaust changes, my truck had more power and the temperature behaved itself better too. I was too tight to put in gauges, so I don't know how it affected my EGTs. The only other thing that I would like is a lower temp fan clutch, I dont like to see the coolant temp hit 215 before any action is taken.
However, all is mute for me - bought a 2003 Duramax two months ago :)

a 3" straight pipe is comparable to a 4" with axle bends. Go big, 3 1/2" downpipes available, easy to transition to 4".

A big restriction is the down pipe the factory has about a 45% restriction to it so make sure you get that changed. I would really consider the Jardine/Pinnacal they are running a special on the Duramax but at the end of the year I e-mailed them and said they would sell the 6.5 exhaust for $300 plus shipping also. I went with therir older 3inch system and noticed a big improvement. I also "replaced" the soot trap and that helps too.

Ok - since I am a female (and a blonde to boot) I want to verify what info I just read. A 3" straight is equal to a 4" bent pipe. I also need to replace the down pipe - to a 3 - 1/2" (just for curiousity how big is the stock downpipe). Also replace the "soot trap" (please tell me where that is at) Also did you just replace the fan clutch or the fan and the clutch.
Next have any of you put in a chip? If so do you notice much differance, or am I just asking to ruin my engine. My impression from other people was that before you add a chip I need to add the exhaust, fan, clutch, and water pump. What is your take on it.

Slapshot

I forgot to ask - how do you like the Duramax. Did you get it with the Allison Tranny? And have you pulled any large loads with it (10,000# +) I have always liked GMC but everyone keeps telling us that if you are going to pull a big trailer you have to get the Dodge with the Cummins 6 speed. I like to find more people who are pulling with these new Duramax's with the Allisons and see how they are holding up. The couple people in this area are using but pulling smaller trailers.

Ok - since I am a female (and a blonde to boot) I want to verify what info I just read. A 3" straight is equal to a 4" bent pipe. I also need to replace the down pipe - to a 3 - 1/2" (just for curiousity how big is the stock downpipe). Also replace the "soot trap" (please tell me where that is at) Also did you just replace the fan clutch or the fan and the clutch.
Next have any of you put in a chip? If so do you notice much differance, or am I just asking to ruin my engine. My impression from other people was that before you add a chip I need to add the exhaust, fan, clutch, and water pump. What is your take on it.
The factory pipe 2 7/8" before the bends and scrunches, I did the 3 inch pipe back in like 1997 replaced the down pipe . Do the exhaust first and intake clean up those are best value. The rest cost more and more you could easy spend $3,000 to $4,000 to try and make it a better tow rig. he chips as more heat because the add fuel they only way you get more power from a engine is to burn more fuel, just like you work your horses hard they need more feed. Power creates heat, the factory programing is designed to prevent your engine from burning up if you chip it with out gages so you can keep it under that max temps you will burn it up. All the cooling stuff cooling upgrades, and fan clutch, inter coolers ect are to prevent engine melt down.

Like 16ga says, do the intake and exhaust first, best bang for your bucks. It was all I did and it made enough difference for me. As far as 3" vs 4", like I said before, 3" is lots unless you are planning more extensive mods (like increasing boost pressure or a chip). The cooling mods to bring the 95 in line with the newer style would be a good thing too, but I never did it. Living in Canada, I only have to tow in hot weather very seldom so I never bit that bullet.

As far as the Duramax, I will let you know, I am planning on hauling my big 5th wheel camper into the dealership for warranty tomorrow for the first time.

Thank you! I am go to start shopping around the different companies to find the best exhaust for my money. And Slapshot - keep me informed of the Duramax capabilities.

Does her truck have the EGR? If so don't forget about gutting the upper plenim!

I have a buddy with a DuraBux and Ally tranny it's a CrewCab longbox K2500. He pulls a 32 foot bumper pull camper with a slide out and he says he haulls it up the mountain passes as fast as he dars drive it. He averages 10-11mpg towing it and about 17-18 at 75 empty. No problems, the coouple that did day care for our daughter bought a new 2002 Durabux CC too and he said he towed his 30ft Articfox TT heavy trailer 75-80 mph no problem. (too fast in my book).

BTW DieselChick, did you figure out what axel ratio you have and if you got the HD 3/4 ton or Standard?

No I haven't figured out my rear ratio yet, my boyfriend has been working on a 6.2 he got (which thank goodness is almost done) and then we are going to pull my truck in so we can take a closer look at all that. When I figure it out I will let you know.