1- 87 suburban 6.2 wont start

I have check manual lift pump squirts fuellength of hood.
check fuel line before rectangular filter will squrt fuel pass the hood
fuel line after filter fuel will not come out so I bypassed it
I took the line going to the fuel filter and connected it directley to the top of the IP pump.
fuel shut off switch is working.
still a no running condition I have pulled the line of the injector no fuel will come out.

would it be safe to say injector pump shot?

also what is the diffence between a 82 6.2 (1 ton dually) and a 87 (1/2 ton burb)

I can have any parts of the 82 motor will this pump work and be calibrated for my burb?

also what is the best method for removing the ip I read that take the ip pump with the lines but what do you have to do to "time the pump" does the #1 cycle have to be on TDC like a gasser?

Fuel line on your IP is at the rear, centered between injector pipes. Also has an internal filter screen, there.
But first, I'd suggest connecting the fuel supply line to that IP inlet fitting - most trucks seem to run a little better, with it there............

That line at the front top is the bypass return line, back to the tank - no workee fer inlet, dude.

Don't bypass your fuel filter, please. You are just asking for trouble. Do you have fuel coming out of fuel filter housing? Install clear hose on short fuel line on top of injection pump. Crank engine, do you see fuel in clear line? If not check valve on top of pump could be malfunctioning or could have a blockage in return line. If you have fuel, move on to glow plug circuit and test glow plugs with a 12v test light. Remove each glow plug wire and test by attaching one end of test light to battery + and touch other end to spade on glow plug. If glow plug is opperational test light will glow. Repeat 8 times. If glow plugs are OK, try removing air cleaner and spray a good shot of WD 40 down the intake, try and start. If it starts and dies then you are definetly looking at a fuel related problem.

Parts off of the 82 are interchangeable, I would use the intake manifold(get rid of your egr) and injection pump. The pump is calibrated for more fuel and hp.
I always remove the lines from the pump before removing pump. Start at the top and work your way down. The bottom lines can be reached with a standard open end 5/8 wrench but can only be moved a little at a time. spray some WD 40 on the threads to help spin the nuts off easy.:grd:

oppps forgot to mention glow plugs are on a manual switch (momentary) I bought this truck as a NON-runner... hoping it was a clogged filter... I only bypassed the rectangular fuel filter to see if it was a clogged filter... the line I used on the ip pump was the direct line fron the manual lift pump... also I noticed that the 82 6.2 had a waterseprator(I heard they were junk) and a spin on filter like my 6.9(ford) but my burb has neither one!also where can I find out on how to set the timming marks on the 6.2 pump? so I don't get the IP pump to advanced or retarded?

If you look at the marks on the pump and the timing cover, loosen the three 15mm nuts holding the pump to the cover and move the pump one to two line/widths toward the drivers side (counter clockwise, viewed from the drivers seat). This will be close enough for the engine to run smoothly under normal circumstances. It it doesn't, something else is wrong besides timing. Never/ NEVER!!, loosen and attempt to move the pump with the engine running! Personal injury can result!

Read D.C. & Fred carefully!!!! The outlet on the top of the IP is the over-flow that returns surplus fuel/air to the fuel tank, not the input line from the filter. And never fail to have a filter between the lift pump and the IP inlet (in the center of the 8 injection lines coming out the end of the pump). Maybe your local library has a 6.2L engine manual that will enable you to get a better picture of your engine components.

OKAY its backward than my 6.9....

The 6.9\7.3 uses the same Stanadyne IP as the 6.2, but with reverse rotation - fuel inlet\outlet lines are identically located.

Or - you could say the GM IP's are reverse rotation, because of the timing chain.

Fuel inlet is centered in distributor head, middle of injector pipes

Just be extremely cautious of how far you advance the timing. Some pumps have been "tweaked" to have additional advance. This is done internally and affects the way the engine sounds and runs. If you have pronounced "crackle" at idle, suspect pump internal timing is set up for power. If the engine idles quietly and hardly "sounds like a diesel", the internal advance mechanism is not set up to maximum fuel and timing settings.

An injector pump calibration stand at an authorized repair shop that specializes in IP's is the best place to have a pump checked or adjusted. Turning the screws in the field is, at best, an educated guess. Most people who do this know what they are doing and have years of experience. I would advise against a novice going inside the pump and turning screws.

The timing is critical to cold starts. It also is critical to heat in the combustion chambers and can cause increased pressures that lead to shorter engine life. Glo-plug life can also be shortened. (Not so much of a problem with the late style 60G plugs, but a real issue with the early style 9G and 11G's)

Just be cautious and don't get too far from the marks! Fred

yeah I got the feul line hooked to a wrong spot DUH... I will re hook it this week end hopefully start!!! now new question

the 87 has the rectangular fuel filter with all them wires... (what are the wires for) heard for water in fuel light?

anyway the 82 motor (brought it home) has the filter with a valve on bottom (like your air compressors to drain water) that is a water seperator right? I've been told to chunk it in the woods

this truck had the screw on fuel filter like my 6.9 (oil filter looking ) but itt is mounted on the back of the intake
which would be better to use? iF I go with the screw on filter can I mount it on the firewall?

the j code intake is not supposed to have a egr valve but this one has one on the opening if the intake....

soryy for all the silly question just new to a chevy diesel

That is Water In Fuel, fuel heater, and Vacuum, supposed to tell when filter or lines are clogged.

Actually, imo, if you're planning off-roading, use all three filters, in series, providing filter elements, o-rings, etc, are still available for each.

Had you picked up that engine in 1982, the oem equip would be correct - today, who knows?

But could be a Kalifornia engine, which would have had emisions, even on the 2500HD and 3500 trucks.

If that really is an '82 red engine, you got a good base for some reliable power-ups.

Get a Chilton's and a Haynes manual - should provide enough info to get you started.
Then keep checking Ebay for the correct GM factory service manual(s).

Where is a good source for casting numbers for deisel blocks? I got all the one for gassers (from my stock car racing days)

Sounds like your 82 enigine is a C model. All of the J engines were without egr. Casting #'s don't mean a lot, the blocks are interchangeable, the heads of a c motor had smaller valves than a J motor. Injection pump is big difference and egr.

The extra wiring on the fuel filter is connected to the pressure sensor (black button) that contacts the filter when it is snapped in by the spring-loaded wire bails. As the filter becomes restricted, the pressure inside increases and pushes against the switch, activating the water-in-fuel light. Oftentimes, there isn't much water, just a plugged filter that caused the light to come on. GM's double redundancy! They think we can't tell when the filter is getting restricted. Usually, the vehicle loses power and/or blows white/lt. blue smoke. Because there isn't a sure-fire way to tell if it's water or just a plugged filter, the put the pressure sensor in to make it turn the light on whenever anything goes wrong.

You might be surprised at the number of people with W-I-F indicator 'on', didn't find any water out the drain, so just ignored it, said the truck was running 'fine' otherwise.

Didn't occur to them, when the light went out, that it was really out - burned out!

Ah, well - they eliminated it in the late round cannister.

The early spin on filters work well when new , but they are a PIA. The primary fuel water separator is a siphon application, meaning the fuel pump suck through the filter. Get low on fuel and get on a steep hill and you will loose your prime, major PIA. They also had a tendency to get air leaks, then you would also loose your prime. The box filters are much easier to deal with.:eek: