I've got an '07 classic crew cab 4x4 dually with 18,000 miles on it. The brakes have been squealing so loud since 7,000 miles. I have taken the truck in to chevy two or three times now. The last time I was in, they found a cracked shoe, don't remember which one, but I think it was the right rear. Anyway, they changed it out, sprayed the crap out of it with anti squeal, and it still screams like a banshee. Is there anyone that's had this and fixed it, and if so, how? Thanks for any help. I rarely towed with it, so that's not an issue, and you can hear them from 3 blocks away. I've had and gotten rid of too many trucks in the past few years, and want to keep this one until it dies or I do, but this squeal is unbearable. Thanks again.

Post #12 here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=246921&highlight=squeal

got almost 30000 on mine and they have squeeled since about 8000 miles. Gonna have to try and get to the stealer before warranty expires

Since we all know your truck's brakes are noisy, let me address where it's coming from, and why the General's bulletin may not cure it. And yes, all of mine are noise free.

The noise is generated from an outer brake pad not "fully" applying to the rotor. This will result in one or more of the following:

Noise
Diminishing of brake force at one or more corners (of the truck)
Over-working of the properly functioning brakes
Unacceptable corrosion of the rotor's swept area
Warping of the other rotors (the harder working ones)
Premature front wheel bearing failure (from poor rear braking, causing the front brakes to overheat, all the way through to the hub grease)

Why is it not fully applying?

This is due to production tolerances, assembly practices (even at the factory), and the not so generous application of lubricant.

This basic design is used by many of the major automobile and truck manufacturers (Honda, Ford, Toyota, etc.), so don’t go screaming at the General, just yet. They all exhibit a select group of problems, regardless of whose name is on it.

By design, the following exists:

The pads are to be free to “slide” on their rattle clips.
The calipers are to be free to “float” on their slide bolts.

At the time of manufacture, production tolerances allow for some pads to have a tighter fit than others. And, at the time of manufacture, the correct amount of lubrication is not always applied. These are reasons to help to explain the reason for the noise at such an early mileage and age.

Due to production tolerances, many times the pads themselves are too “tight” when new, limiting their ability to “slide” freely. This becomes compounded by the growth of corrosion over time, due to the types of metals used and the lack of appropriate corrosion protection. The ends of the pad backing plates will “grow” in size due to the presence of corrosion. This typically accompanied by the “shrinking” of the mounting bracket opening, due to the “growth” of corrosion under the rattle clips.

At the time of manufacture, inconsistent application of the proper lubricant results in binding of the caliper slide areas, due to friction, and in some cases, corrosion (as there is no lubricant to seal out the moisture).

To address noise, performance, and corrosion issues, inspection of the components is required. May I suggest annually, and, by all means, inspect all four corners.

Post #7 here, http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake , contains a set of instructions to allow inspection and maintenance of the brake components at each corner of the truck.

Why may the General’s solution not work? Their choice is to change the pad compound and shape, while not addressing the core problems. Those problems are fit and corrosion, which are IMHO, the core of the problem.

Overall, the braking system is far superior to any previous designs I have seen, but these brakes require “maintenance”, too.

G.m does say that pads and sliders must slide free etc, they do address the issue., they also say that a anti squeal compund may help. pad compund is one of the last things they will suggest.

I am new to brakes and have never done them myself. Do you have any pics of where I should be looking. I have no clue what ears and sliders you are talking about

Problem is that they have looked at everything, replaced a shoe, and they still don't see anything else, and it gets worse everyday. What do I tell them to look at without them thinking I'm telling them how to do their jobs, and my truck coming back with another dealer inflicted scratch or gouge as it may be?

Problem is that they have looked at everything, replaced a shoe, and they still don't see anything else, and it gets worse everyday. What do I tell them to look at without them thinking I'm telling them how to do their jobs, and my truck coming back with another dealer inflicted scratch or gouge as it may be?
Tell them that once the caliper is removed (tilted up for pad access), the damned pads should nearly fall out. This ain't rocket science. They (the pads) should not require the use of any tool to free the pad from the rattle clips and mounting ear. One finger push, at most.

this all makes sense....... The pads on the side that i did the hub replacement on had to be pryed out with a bar This kinda sucks wheel bearings are not cheap:(

My front wheels are hard to spin when jacked up, my disc brakes are so tight. Any suggestions? I know this is hurting my mileage and not good on the brakes.

My front wheels are hard to spin when jacked up, my disc brakes are so tight. Any suggestions? I know this is hurting my mileage and not good on the brakes.

First link here


Your front rotors warped because the rear hardware and pads are binding and lacking lube. Tear all four corners apart and refit the pads and use the proper lube on the sliders.

Post #7 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...her+soft+brake (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake)

And why at post #4 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...ighlight=noisy (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276509&highlight=noisy)

and my attempt at a writeup with pics, but still lacking details http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...highlight=rear (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313310&highlight=rear)

From here http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318292
The second link comes back here and the 3rd is my "unfinished" writeup.

Thanks!