Hello,
it's me, the one whose injection pumped siezed up a while back. I took the advice given and did the work myself of removing and, hopefully, replacing because someone gave me a $700 quote just for the labor, so it was an easy decision.
I was fortunate to get a fully rebuilt one (old one was not rebuildable) for $275 total so i am not complaining. It will arrive tomorrow and i am going to start work right away. On the whole, i am not to nervous but i do have one question:
removing the two injector lines at the very bottom of the pump were nearly impossible and i still wonder if i damaged the lines while doing so - i will find out soon enough. Is there any way to do this without a special wrench? I am told Snap On makes some special wrench to do it, but i don't have time or money for that now and need to make do with what i have. There was just no way to get a basic 16 mm wrench in there to turn it. My only guess is to bend the wrench about 90 degrees right at the tip, and then an inch or two from that bend it again in the opposite direction - that way i could reach in there and tighten those two. I have a brazing torch that would help make the bend safely.
Is there an easier way, or does anyone have any advice on how to do this? Would be much appreciated.
thanks,
Paul

You can get them pretty good with a double offset 5/8" wrench, or a crow's foot on a short extension with a 3/8" breakover or ratchet.

i take the injector pump off with all the lines on the pump looks like a big spider then i change over all the lines on the bench and then put whole assy back in place tighten up pump re attach all lines to injectors bleed all lines at injectors tighten all lines at injectors start truck check for leaks very noisy then if ok re install intake manifold and button it all up and you are good to go:grd:

Thats the way I do 6.2s too, but not everyone has a vice they can put the pump in, and even if you do, have to be careful not to break the mountin flange off the pump housing. It is much easier this way, pretty impossible to cross a line too.

I fabricated a 6" X 10" plate, 3/8" thick. I drilled and welded a 3/8 bolt in it to hold the pump tight. I cut (with a torch) a hole for the pump shaft to fit through. I chuck the plate in the vise, put the pump on the plate, put a washer and nut on the stud to hold it (stud goes through one of the pump mount holes) and change the lines and other parts before installing the pump.

I have always installed the lines with the pump mounted. I start with the bottom two lines, hook them up with the injectors, and proceed with the rest of the lies. I use a crow foot. It is possible to strip the nuts so be careful!!!!! I put some oil on the IP treads so they will torque easier plus I don't want them rusting.

Oftentimes, there just isn't sufficient clearance to remove the pump with the lines attached. I use a 5/8" box-end crows foot on those. WD-40, like you said. Piece of cake! Well, it's not the kind of cake I like, but.....