So....Ive read quite a few times on how upgrading to a J code intake or at least getting rid of the EGR nets +15HP at the rear easily. Seems people think alot of it has to do with the extra airflow the J code series intake offers. So wouldnt it be good to open up other areas?

Ive read in other posts that the diesel will take a "full" breath of air, but how I read it is that its taking a full breath of "available" air. Some examples being maybe a dirty filter, the intake muffler, and elevation for some of us to show that the engine is taking a full breath, but it isnt the amount thats possible.

Of course you can take the inlet muffler off and go straight pipe(what I have), and go the J code intake. And Ive heard people taking off the whole inlet pipe assembly, but I can see that all that does is introduce hot engine compartment air.

So besides saying "turbocharge it" or bringing up the old K&N vs Amsoil filter debate how has everyone tried to get more air/more free flowing air in there?
Modified air cleaner to stack 2 airfilters? Somehow got 2 outside incoming air inlets? (the radiator is in the way of the 2nd inlet opening) Bigger inlet on stock filter aseembly? Specialized filtered cowl induction hood made to push air directly into the intake? Have just a filter with no cleaner assembly? Is engine compartment heat that bad of a deal that you just cant just have a open filter without the inlet pipes?

To what point does more airflow help engine power?

So lets hear about all the mods and opinions out there, how you did them, any suggestions and thoughts and lets see some pictures if you have them!

To make more power you need more air, but then you also need more fuel, and then some more air and some more fuel and oh yeah you have to be able to get rid of it so.... free flowing mufflers or bigger pipes. The J manifold just lets the engine run the way it should. If you didn't know, all of the military rigs use J manifolds, even the blazers. Stacking of air cleaners( I tried it long ago) is way too noisy. Still when you get you air intake freed up, ( I like to get rid of the silencer and duct the air cleaner straight to the outside air) Then turn up the fuel!:eek: :cool2:

I removed the EGR. I cut the base off and then welded a plug into the base to close off the hole. I also put solid manifold gaskets to seal off the exhaust from going thru the intake manifold. A J manifold would have been easier, but my mod. works. I also took out the exhaust butterfly in the left side exhaust manifold.

I didn't like the restriction of the so called intake muffler so I removed it. I made my intake duct out of 4 in. alum. vent dryer pipe (flex type) and connected it between my air cleaner and the front grill area. Incidentally, don't use the plastic vent pipe that I first used. It came loose, collapsed, and 6 qts. of engine oil was pushed out the rear main in about 100 yards!!!! I was lucky that I saw the smoke and that I had 6 qts. of oil in our camper!!!! A lady soldier mechanic from Ft. Polk was right behind us and stopped to offer help, but I knew what had happened plus I had the oil. God Bless her!!!!! :grd:

Good ideas. with, at the moment, 50 something people who have read this, no one else has done any air mods?

Ive got the J code intake and straight pipe from the grill to the air filter assembly. Just to fool around today, the engine was at fast idle and I took the pipe off on back on a bunch times to see the difference. it was notcable, you can hear the change in the engine with it off. its also surprised and impressed me how much air was being sucked in when i put my hand to it. feels like a struggle though. so i drove around with it off for a short trip, and I thought I could tell a difference in response. or maybe its me paying attention and hoping for such a thing.
im currently trying to make a support plate so i can run it with an open element to see how it acts.. First problem was my flat metal base wouldnt sit flush, the right side tuna can tubes is in the way. so i built a spacer. works good, but second problem arose...the spacing is off now, since the filter sits higher. so the top cover wont bolt on. I will just find longer threaded rods and fix that. interested to see the difference.

if it is noiser, so be it..if it means more power!

Banks used to offer a stinger kit for 6.2's. Part of the kit was a larger intake port for the air cleaner. It opens up the hole going to the element about 3 fold and then uses 4 inch flex to the radiator support. I don't like stacking air cleaner elements due to the noise. Also, ambient tempature has a drastic effect on hp on a NA diesel. Get that IAT up to about 90+ degrees and you will loose major hp.:eek:

Yeah, Ive seen the stinger system a while ago. With your mention of it, I looked it up again. Banks site is saying +32hp, +48 ft lbs torque, 65% less backpressure. Is this believeable? (and I know some of it is based on the exhaust) stinger has single 3", currently I have 2.75" dual.

When i finish making and installing it, how do i know I have the fuel turned up to the correct amount?

I like the duals better, but it boils down to your muffler. As for removing the egr and blocking it off, that is OK but you still have that big chuck of casting in the middle of the intake blocking the flow of air. Needs a non egr manifold. After the air flow mods, the fuel needs to be turned up to achieve the desired gains.:cool2: