So if I didn't mention it or anything:o:, now that Mike L. did my tranny, and I cranked the Predator all the way up, I've got to get gauges before I get myself in trouble. I know I should have done it already, but....

I'm after black face gauges that offer good night-time viewing.

The boost gauge better go to 60 psi, so I'm looking at the DiPricol with matching pyro.

Anybody got anything bad to say about them? I'd like an 1800° pyro, but Isspro is the only company I can find that makes one.

Kelly,

Give all the auto meter stuff a try, diff models suit different tastes.. Just ordered my Boost/Pyro on fri night, off to pick them up and possibly install on sat/sun..

http://hp.autometer.com

coyotekid,

I have the Autometer Z-Series as it was the closest thing to stock I could find at a reasonable price. I originally bought the 60psi gage and had it in for a week, but realized that 30psi was all I needed. If you are interested, and really want the 60psi gage, make me an offer and you can have it. I paid 52.00 w/shipping.

By the way, I got mine at the supporting vendor, dieselperformanceparts.com, Mark is very helpful!

I like this gauge, SPA DG-211 Digital Boost with Pyro, and most of the supporting vendors have them.

the auto meter guages have a carbon fiber face or the white faces or the silver faces or ah heck you get the idea, I did the auto meter white faces with red light bulbs to break it up in the cab on the tripple gauge pod.

Originally I was planning on a 35 psi boost gauge, but some guys are telling me that a modded LLY will peg a 35 psi gauge. Opinions?

My only knock on the Autometer is the lighting. They have a light behind the dial face that shine around the outside edge. It can be hard to see the needle at night. I think it is Isspro that lights the needle, which is cool.

Yeah, I like the AutoMeter Sport Comp series a lot, but the lighting doesn't seem to be as good as some of the others. That's why I was looking at the DiPricols.

Originally I was planning on a 35 psi boost gauge, but some guys are telling me that a modded LLY will peg a 35 psi gauge. Opinions?

Yes you can peg a 35 pound gauge.

I went wiith the autometer gauges. I had the bulb filter removed to brighten them up at night. Now the brightness is more in line with the stock gauges and I can control the overall brightness with the dimmer switch. With the bulb filter in place, I had to crank up the dimmer switch to see the autometer gauges, but then the stock gauges damn near blinded me.

Aso, went with the 60 psi boost gauge - ya never know what the future holds. Maybe someday someone will figure out how to put twin turbos on the Dmax. ):h Said with tongue firmly in cheek.

The SPA gauges are nice and very accurate. A little steep in price but you get 2 gauges in one.

KBK, What is this bulb filter you speak of it is actually on the back of the gauge face? I was trying to figure out how to make my gauges more in line with factory. I guess I need to get in there and tear my gauges apart.

you can also get a different bulb at autozone or such stores, just take the one out to compare it to, seems the ones in autometers are low wattage.

I have the Dipricol gauges installed. Black bezel w/black face. If you want a picture let me know and I will post one. They look very good and are easily seen at night but not overpowering.

I have the Dipricol gauges installed. Black bezel w/black face. If you want a picture let me know and I will post one. They look very good and are easily seen at night but not overpowering.
Gunbunny, please post a picture, I would like to see them installed :ro)

I would too!

Call Ted at Jennetty's. He's got custom autometer 50PSI gauges... nice compromise between 35 and 60.

Just a quick item regarding guages, if you are going to use the overhead mount, some of the Autometer guages do not come with long enough cables and tubing to reach. Autometer is chaning their pyro guages to come with 10.5 foot cables and if you get one with a 8.5 foot cable and you call them they will mail you the longer cable for free. They have a 1/8" 10.5 tubing kit for the boost guage but you can also go down to Napa Auto Parts and get 1/8" nylon tubing for about 50 cents per foot.

Let me confirm that last post. I have the Autometer Cobalt series boost and pyro. The pyro lead is too short to install in the passenger side manifold. I'll be calling them tomorrow. The boost lead is too short as well, gonna confirm with them tomorrow that I can lengthen the wires.

If you decide on the Cobalts, the 0-60PSI boost gauge is part number 6170. This is just a boost gauge, not boost/vac so its just wiring, no tube. For some reason, its not shown on their website but I called them and confirmed the number, ordered the gauge and http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif . Even though I can't hook 'em up yet, I gotta say they sure do look sweet up in that Trippin mount. Hooked 'em to power last night to make sure I had the lights tapped into the dimmer correctly, which I did, and did I mention they look SCHWEEEEET! Love that blue back light! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/cool.gif

I can say the DipriCol? has a very responsive pyro.

Call Ted at Jennetty's. He's got custom autometer 50PSI gauges... nice compromise between 35 and 60.Do you know which series he carries in the 50psi gauge? Phone number or web address?

Here's the web-site address, he's here in CT, nice guy and shop, own's a Duramax himself.

http://www.jannettyracing.com/

DD

Since no one has posted a pic I thought I would for your viewing pleasure. So here it is....Autometer gauges and pillar...:cool2:

KBK, What is this bulb filter you speak of it is actually on the back of the gauge face? I was trying to figure out how to make my gauges more in line with factory. I guess I need to get in there and tear my gauges apart.
jnieberlein, I had the shop that installed the gauges pull the bulb filter - so I never physically saw where in the gauge it was placed. I do know they had to pull the pod mount off and come at the gauges from behind to get to it. Also, as a FYI, the gauges now have a slight orange tint at night but I don't mind it.

kbk,

So your gauges currently work with the dimmer? Can you post pictures of where the power was tapped?

GMC2500HD,
That gauge pod, is it stock that color or did you have to paint it?

Yeah. I'd like to know where you got the power from too:)

Gunbunny, please post a picture, I would like to see them installed :ro)
I will take a picture Monday evening and post later that night. You can see what time I normally post so it will be pretty late.

kbk,

So your gauges currently work with the dimmer? Can you post pictures of where the power was tapped?

GMC2500HD,
That gauge pod, is it stock that color or did you have to paint it?
I painted it so that it would match. It came in black.

Cool, Thanks for the intel, looks really good, as if it came like that.

Spoke with Autometer this morning. They are aware the thermoprobe cable is too short for some applications and are working on a fix.

Thanks to kodydog for the intel on the free replacement cable. The tech I spoke with said he wasn't aware they were doing that but said he'd check.

Sure enough, he's sending me out the 10ft cable. Spoke with him this afternoon and he said he was boxing it up.

If you get new gauges and it has a fixed length thermoprobe with stainless braided wiring, measure it first before being disappointed, then just call 'em and get the correct one. :thumb:

Since no one has posted a pic I thought I would for your viewing pleasure. So here it is....Autometer gauges and pillar...:cool2:
Any rattles or squeeks from that pillar mount?

kbk,
So your gauges currently work with the dimmer? Can you post pictures of where the power was tapped?

Cid: Yes my gauges work with the dimmer. I did not do the install, but I will look for the tap and post a picture.

Sledman: I haven't noticed any rattles/squeaks with the pillar mount.

The wire for the lights to the dimmer switch is the violet/white wire on the back of the light switch harness. That is where I tapped mine and it works with the dimmer switch.

Any rattles or squeeks from that pillar mount?
I have no squeaks or rattles from the pillar. I used the platic clips that came with it and also installed some larger diameter screwes at the lower bottom on the outside and inside close to the windshield, also used them up top to hold it in place. Have no problems with mine at all....

Here are pictures of my Dipricol gauges. One day and one night picture.

Ooooh, Daddy like!

I think I may just have to go with the DiPricols. Any reliability issues, problems?

Also, how do you like the fuel pressure gauge? Where did you tap into the line for the reading? Does DiPricol have a good isolator setup?

Thanks in advance.

Gunbunny, I see you have Trippin's Attitude mount as well as a pyro on the A piller, do you use the same thermocoupler for both? Also what kind of fuel pressure do you show? Running a lift pump? I am thinking about adding a pyro on the A piller along with a fuel pressure gauge.

Ooooh, Daddy like!

I think I may just have to go with the DiPricols. Any reliability issues, problems?

Also, how do you like the fuel pressure gauge? Where did you tap into the line for the reading? Does DiPricol have a good isolator setup?

Thanks in advance.
No problems so far. Have only had them installed for about 2 weeks. Now the fuel pressure gauge.....as you can see it is not indicating anything. Don't have it hooked up yet as I am not sure where the best place to do this is. It appears that the isolator is a good setup.....probably not as easy as the Autometer one. I just need to figure out or have someone else that has already hooked up the fuel pressure gauge to chime in here. Already have it all wired. I am going to try and hook the gauges into the dimmer switch. But again, they are lit up well but not too bright.

Gunbunny, I see you have Trippin's Attitude mount as well as a pyro on the A piller, do you use the same thermocoupler for both? Also what kind of fuel pressure do you show? Running a lift pump? I am thinking about adding a pyro on the A piller along with a fuel pressure gauge.
I have not hooked up the thermocouple off the Attitude yet. Don't know if you could hook them to the same thermocouple or not. Maybe one of the really smart guys can clue us in. I would like to have both hooked up. Not running a lift pump YET. Leaning towards SD's setup right now. All of his products are excellent! Going to order the Centerlink from him for sure. Possibly the propane kit when he gets them. I have been following the lift pump threads to try and figure out what is best for my needs. Kind of waiting to see the info and how JK's works. Read the above post for the fuel pressure gauge.

I have not hooked up the thermocouple off the Attitude yet. Don't know if you could hook them to the same thermocouple or not. Maybe one of the really smart guys can clue us in. I would like to have both hooked up. Not running a lift pump YET. Leaning towards SD's setup right now. All of his products are excellent! Going to order the Centerlink from him for sure. Possibly the propane kit when he gets them. I have been following the lift pump threads to try and figure out what is best for my needs. Kind of waiting to see the info and how JK's works. Read the above post for the fuel pressure gauge.
I would also like to run two pyro gauges off of one probe and would like someone to chime in who has done this.......

When you do get the fuel pressure hooked up, I would like to know what reading you get. I think I heard around 6 to 8 psi, in that case I would lean toward a gauge that runs 0 to 15 psi, though they seem to be hard to find :( .
I am putting in dual prefilters with a lift pump between the two, I am considering hooking up a pressure gauge to the second filter as opposed to using the bleeder port on the OEM filter. What do you guys think of that?

Love all the info here :cool2:

You can run two displays off of a single thermocouple input if the displays are of high enough quality (high input impedance). The danger with low impedance displays is that two in parallel will load the millivolt signal from the thermocouple and cause incorrect readings. You can test whether your gauges are OK by holding the thermocouple at a known temperature while you alternately connect one display, then both. If the reading on the first display stays the same with the second connected you should be OK. I have never tried this with K type thermocouples that pyrometers use but have done it very often with T type thermocouples that we use in our test lab at work. Good luck.

Gunbunny, Are you running a lift pump? If not your fuel pressure gauge will not display anything even when hooked up, our trucks run off of a vacuum system I was just made aware of this a few days ago, So now the search is on for a lift pump system I actually think I have found one but that is a whole nuther thread, Anyhow just thought I would give you a fyi

Gunbunny, Are you running a lift pump? If not your fuel pressure gauge will not display anything even when hooked up, our trucks run off of a vacuum system I was just made aware of this a few days ago, So now the search is on for a lift pump system I actually think I have found one but that is a whole nuther thread, Anyhow just thought I would give you a fyi
No I'm not...that is why I am waiting to hook it up. Not going to until I decide on which lift pump system I want. And your right.....that is a whole forum all by itself. :lol: Which one are you looking at? Thanks.

You can run two displays off of a single thermocouple input if the displays are of high enough quality (high input impedance). The danger with low impedance displays is that two in parallel will load the millivolt signal from the thermocouple and cause incorrect readings. You can test whether your gauges are OK by holding the thermocouple at a known temperature while you alternately connect one display, then both. If the reading on the first display stays the same with the second connected you should be OK. I have never tried this with K type thermocouples that pyrometers use but have done it very often with T type thermocouples that we use in our test lab at work. Good luck.

Thanks for the information....I will have to try that. I know what my idle temp and normal temp at a couple different speeds are so as long as it reads the same with both connected it should be okay. Sound right?

Thanks for the information....I will have to try that. I know what my idle temp and normal temp at a couple different speeds are so as long as it reads the same with both connected it should be okay. Sound right?
Yup. Just be sure to connect the gauges in parallel and use the proper thermocouple wire for your connections.

Hey people, you guys with lighting problems with the autometer guages, i made up a LED globe replacement that slots into the globe holder, no mods needed to the guage itself, i used white LED's and it looks great as well as being bright. Costs about $10 AUS (about the same price as the colour caps). All you need to do is run a 180ohm resister on one of the legs (i used 2 LED's twisted together), can post/send pics and step by step guide to make your own.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/welcome2.gif Welcome! And please post pics and steps. Thanks

Yes - Please I'd like to see the pics and instructions too. Thanks!:thumb:

Yes, this sounds cool.

The wire for the lights to the dimmer switch is the violet/white wire on the back of the light switch harness. That is where I tapped mine and it works with the dimmer switch.I did this too, but there is a problem with it, at least with my truck. The vio/wht is the LED Dimming Supply (circuit No. 1382). Tapping into this wire had my gauge lights on all the time. I could dim them with the switch, but because its the supply lead, they were always on. I pulled the switch back out and tapped the brown/wht (Instrument Panel Lamps Dimming Control circuit No. 230). Now my gauge lights only come on when the lights come on in the auto position or if I manually turn the knob to turn on parking or headlights AND they can be dimmed with the switch. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

Anybody with the TTT mirrors will remember this connection from the installation manual, but they finally realized that this is a dimmable lead and changed their installation instructions.

Hope this helps.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/welcome2.gif Welcome! And please post pics and steps. Thanks
I will post it up in the DIY section later when i get home, my work connection dosent want to upload the pics, i will post up a link in this thread.

I cant post in the DIY forum so the admins will have to move it later if they wish. This was written for Australian readers but you should be able to source all the parts in the US pretty easily.

LED replacement bulb for Autometer gauges<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>

Parts:<o:p></o:p>

2 x LED’s, 5mm, high brightness, any colour of your choice (I used white) ZD-0182<o:p></o:p>

180ohm 1W resistor RR-2556<o:p></o:p>

2 x red connectors PT-4522 (or similar, make sure both will slot into the Autometer bulb socket with a bit of clearance in between them.)<o:p></o:p>

Spaghetti 30mm long of 4mm thickness and 15mm long of 10mm thickness <o:p></o:p>

Piece of thin plastic approx 1mm thick (from a screw or nail box or plastic packet)<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Tools:<o:p></o:p>

Soldering iron<o:p></o:p>

Solder<o:p></o:p>

Small electronics pliers<o:p></o:p>

Wire cutters<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

The parts should cost no more than $10 from Jaycar, I have provided the catalogue numbers in the parts list so you can use exactly what I did, but you can get the parts from **** Smith or whoever you like. Should take 30mins to put together. Go through the steps before you start making it and make sure you understand everything before you begin.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

An IMPORTANT thing to remember is that you want to make this as short as possible because you don’t have a great deal of room inside the gauge.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

First join your LED’s anode to anode (long leg), cathode to cathode (short leg) like this. Figure 1.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Snip off the excess of the LED you wrapped around, leaving the legs on the other one. Figure 2.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Tack a bit of solder on each point where you wrapped the LED around the other, Figure 3.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Now snip off the anode leg (the longer one) right where you tacked them together with solder. Figure 4.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Snip of one side of the resistor leaving about 2mm of wire. Figure 5<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Now solder the resistor to where you snipped off the leg. Figure 6.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Snip the other side of the resistor off to the same length of the other leg. Figure 7<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Get your snips, pliers and the red connectors and pull off all the red insulation. You don’t need to cut it off, use the pliers to hold the connector and grip the red plastic with the cutters and you should be able to pull it off. Figure 8.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Now solder these both onto the legs of the LEDs, do the resistor leg first and solder the connector as close to the resistor as possible, then match up the connector on the other leg. It is important that the connectors are at the same length and facing the same way. Figure 9.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Now get your 2, 4mm spaghetti pieces and put them over each leg leaving about 4mm of the connectors showing and shrink them with your lighter or matches. Figure 10.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Cut the piece of plastic to size so that its flush with the end of the connectors and so that its not too wide to go into the glob holder, get the 10mm spaghetti and put it over and shrink it so it holds the plastic in place. Figure 11.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Take a close look at the LED’s, youll see inside the clear plastic there are 2 elements, the larger one is the negative so make sure when you plug it into your glob holder that this goes into the negative side of the holder. If you have a 12volt battery handy (or just pop your bonnet) test out your new LED light for your gauge, if you did everything right it should be glowing nicely. It doesn’t look pretty but it works great (your not going to see it anyway).<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

The reason I used 2 LED’s is because 1 alone wasn’t bright enough to clearly read the gauge in pitch black, depending on what LED’s you use you may only need 1, if you do use one LED then substitute the 180 ohm resistor with a 390 ohm.

Does anyone have pictures of an overhead 2 or 3 gauge install?

Thanks

Gunbunny, I was looking at the one from GMCSLED or Superdiesel. Sorry for the late reply I got side tracked the lift pump is on the back burner for the moment, damn diesel pushers site cant do nothing but spend money must buy......buy.....need .......more stuff....suspension things and fingers stick and egr plate on the way ):h

Drop bear you have any pics to go with those instructions some of us (me) are stupid when it comes to soldering wires and resistors and such with out pics, other than that it sounds like it would look nice

LILBUJ check this out

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21492&highlight=gauge+hotness (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21492&highlight=gauge+hotness)

http://www.bmdmax.com/Gauges.html.0.html (http://www.bmdmax.com/Gauges.html.0.html)

Gunbunny, I was looking at the one from GMCSLED or Superdiesel. Sorry for the late reply I got side tracked the lift pump is on the back burner for the moment, damn diesel pushers site cant do nothing but spend money must buy......buy.....need .......more stuff....suspension things and fingers stick and egr plate on the way ):h

Drop bear you have any pics to go with those instructions some of us (me) are stupid when it comes to soldering wires and resistors and such with out pics, other than that it sounds like it would look nice

LILBUJ check this out

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21492&highlight=gauge+hotness (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21492&highlight=gauge+hotness)

http://www.bmdmax.com/Gauges.html.0.html (http://www.bmdmax.com/Gauges.html.0.html)
Yeah I am leaning toward that one also. Just haven't finished researching so I can make up my mind.

Sorry fellas i couldnt upload the pics from work and i have been busy the last couple of days... here are some more pics to help you.

That looks really sweet thanks for the pics

drop bear - That looks great! Thanks for the info.

Does anyone know if the LED's can be had at Radio Shack? I can't see why not. I am going to try to get the stuff tomorrow or even today.

No problems, it was written up for a magazine but they didnt want it because the colour caps cost about the same price :confused:

Can anyone point me in the right direction as far as propane injection goes... i have briefly searched the site and found a couple of interesting threads but more info is always good. Will continue searching anyway.

Also here is another pic with blue LED's

jnieberlein thanks for the info.

I have been using the Edge Attitude and it does a great gauge job. However, I am going to change over to another chip and will need gauges.

I have found that a number of guys have hit EGT's over 1600*F momentarily on dyno days. I got 1832 once that was recorded on my ***. Based on this and the fact that most analogs don't do any recording (who looks at the EGT's when draggin or pullin ??) that a digital with a recording ability would be best.

The only ones I have seen that MAY have this capability are:
Dakota
SPA
Nordskog

who has used any of these, where did you get them, and what were their capabilities?

Hey people, you guys with lighting problems with the autometer guages, i made up a LED globe replacement that slots into the globe holder, no mods needed to the guage itself, i used white LED's and it looks great as well as being bright. Costs about $10 AUS (about the same price as the colour caps). All you need to do is run a 180ohm resister on one of the legs (i used 2 LED's twisted together), can post/send pics and step by step guide to make your own.
drop bear or anyone else that has tried this mod:

I am not able to find the 180ohm/1W resistor and Radio Shack shows it being discontinued. Is there an alternate resistor that will work? Has anyone else been able to find this resistor?

Find 2 360ohm's and run them in parallel.

Yeah, what McRat said! You could try to find lower value resistors and then put them in series so that they add up to 180 ohms if you were so inclined.

im gettin the DIPROCOL gauges....or however you spell it......

Yeah, what McRat said! You could try to find lower value resistors and then put them in series so that they add up to 180 ohms if you were so inclined.
Thanks McRat and Coyote! As you can tell I am not an electrical engineer or anything! However, I did finally find the 180ohm/1W at an 'off the beaten path' specialty electronics shop. I hope to get this done tonight! :ro)

Hey, no problem--glad you got something to work. I'm no electronics whiz by any means, but I'm taking a college class right now that focuses on electric components, so I'm actually learning something useful!

Hey gunbunny


Thanks for the pics. I think I have my mind made up now. I was originally going to go with the autometer Cobat series, but after seeing your pics I am convinced that those are the ones I want!!! Plus the cobalt boost being close to $200, the $45 boost looks alot better. I like they way they look at night, nice touch, easy to read. YEP I made up my mind. I guess now all I have to do is pull the trigger and call Mark C. at DPPI.

Thanks again:cool2: :ro)

I have been using the Edge Attitude and it does a great gauge job. However, I am going to change over to another chip and will need gauges.

I have found that a number of guys have hit EGT's over 1600*F momentarily on dyno days. I got 1832 once that was recorded on my ***. Based on this and the fact that most analogs don't do any recording (who looks at the EGT's when draggin or pullin ??) that a digital with a recording ability would be best.

The only ones I have seen that MAY have this capability are:
Dakota
SPA
Nordskog

who has used any of these, where did you get them, and what were their capabilities?
No first hand experience here, But SPA and Nordskog are top shelf components

Dakot and Cyberdyne... hit and miss from what i have read.
FWIW

not wanting to hyjack anyones thread but if anyone wants an spa digital i got one i bought off hoot and never installed. pm me if your interested

Hey gunbunny


Thanks for the pics. I think I have my mind made up now. I was originally going to go with the autometer Cobat series, but after seeing your pics I am convinced that those are the ones I want!!! Plus the cobalt boost being close to $200, the $45 boost looks alot better. I like they way they look at night, nice touch, easy to read. YEP I made up my mind. I guess now all I have to do is pull the trigger and call Mark C. at DPPI.

Thanks again:cool2: :ro)
No problem. I really like mine. Of course I didn't see that 3 gauge mount that goes above the rear view mirror. Hmmm....may have to order one of those. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/hihi.gif

Dang this has turned into a long thread! Does anybody happen to have pics of one of those over-mirror mounts?

I'm probably going to need one for my cockpit theme.

I just received a 3 gauge apillar cover but it came with no instructions or other parts. It looks like I will have to drill holes in the stock apillar to feed the wires through. ok. no pins or screws so I am wonderig about the best way of attaching the new to the old. will JB Weld or apoxy work to hold these together. I would like to avoid using pins or screws, if possible.
:help2:

Deadeye,

it should have came with some plastic 'ratchet screws' (thats what autometer calls them).. basically a pin with frills on the shaft (one time use). Don't know where you could pick them up but I would think ace hardare or mcmaster has some.. Don't think they are called that anywhere else either.

Anyways, you drill a hole through both, and push that screw/pin in, and presto..

Deadeye,

I used the same kind of push pins that are used to hold your fender skirt on. Not sure what they are called. Only smaller and they screw in instead of pushing in. Put two at the top and it stays nice and secure.

GUNBUNNY
Great pics of your gauges. Is the backlight stock? Do the meters have an alarm you can set?

Yes the backlight is stock. No alarm that you can set.

GUNBUNNY
Great pics of your gauges. Is the backlight stock? Do the meters have an alarm you can set?