I have a 84 cucv military blazer with a 6.2l . I've read all the FAQ and I'm confused about the glow plug issue.My truck does not start as quickly as it used to. I took my blazer to a local shop that works on the 6.2l and was told I need new glow plugs and a relay to be installed because I have the old resistors on the firewall. The glow plugs ,or at least the one he checked was swollen and could not be removed. He said he could change remove the swollen glow plugs and install a glow plug relay that would solve my cold starting problem and also eliminate the any future swelling of the glow plugs. I dont know the number of the glow plugs but they have either yellow or tan looking bands on the end. My question is where to you find the Delco 60g plugs.What are some parts supply resources? Who is Kennedy ? is this a parts place? Since I have the reistors on the fire wall do I not have a controller relay for the glow plugs ? tks Chuck

Kennedy is a good source for glow plugs. Personally I would wire up a manual glow plug switch using a push button starter switch and a glow plug solenoid from an 83 6.2 civilian version. Very easy to wire. PM me and I can try to explain the wiring.:grd:

You should be able to buy the Delco 60G glow plugs from most auto parts stores. I think I bought mine at Checkers. CarQuest stores should sell them as well as Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts. CarQuest normally has better quality parts than the others mentioned above and they are nationwide as well as Canada. The glow plugs could be bought at the cheapest place.

update. I removed all the glow plugs with little difficulty,so I'm not sure why the local shop told me they were swollen and would be difficult to remove. They are 13G. I followed the manual procedure and turned the key to the run position and the wait light came on and in about 10 seconds went off... I then heard a click from under the dash,which I assume was the breaker..but the wait light did not cycle back on as it should have.According to the manual the glow plug controller is bad? Where is the breaker and the glow plug controller located? Under the dash on the drivers side I found a pc looking board and what looked to be some kind of relay or it may be the breaker.Also on the firewall on the back of the engine are large resistors with wires going to a solenoid from which wires go into the cab under the drivers side dash and then into a wiring harness next to the breaker/relay and the pc looking card. Is this card the glow plug controller ? and next to it the breaker I'm hearing click when I leave the key in the run position after the wait light goes out? The wait light does not cycle according to the manual I have. If the key is left in the run position with the engine off after the wait light goes out the wait light should cycle again . Correct? If not the controller is bad and should be replaced. any ideas or information on where the breaker and controller is located? What is the solenoid on the firewall for?
tks Chuck

The clicking you are hearing is most likely the solenoid. Since I have never had the fortune of working on a military model, that is all I can tell you. Wiring a manual glow plug switch is very easy. Parts required: push button switch, solenoid. I prefer to use solenoids from 82-83 civilian 6.2's. Wiring goes like this: 12v battery to one of the big posts, glowplug input to other big post, 12v to one of the coil spades, other spade goes to one side of push button switch, other side of push button switch goes to ground. About a 30 minute job, start to finish. Finish up with a set of A/C 60g glow plugs and you are good to go.;)

Can I use 60g glow plugs instead of the 13g that are in there now? my main concern is not to have the problem of a glow plug swelling and not being able to get it out.
I really would like to keep the wait light set up rather than a manual push button. MY wait light does not cycle like its supposed to, after the engine starts. The curcuit card under the dash on the drivers side I assume is the glow plug controller? also there is a relay that clicks after about 10 to 12 seconds. tks Chuck

The manual glow plug option is cheap and easy to to do. Here's what I did: I bought a starter relay (I think for Ford) for about $25. It has two big studs, one for battery voltage, the other feeds the glow plugs. It has two little studs, one's a ground, the other takes a wire from a momentery switch that you mount on the dash. Feed power to the momentary switch from the fuse box. I think I'm using the fast glow plugs with this system, but the nice thing is you don't have to match the plugs exactly to the relay, which can get confusing.

For cold starts, I run the plugs for five sec on, on sec off, five sec on, then start. Make sure you use a momentary switch otherwise you could accidentally leave the plugs on and burn them out.

I re-wired the plugs this way because the glow plug relay was wired wrong when I bought the donor suburban that I took the engine from for my truck. After putting 8 new plugs in, I immediately burned them out because the relay wouldn't shut off. I didn't have a good wiring diagram so I just re-did the whole system. BTW, two of the new plugs had mushroomed tips and wouldn't come out. It was easy to fix: unthread the plug so you can wiggle it around; bend it back and forth until the tip breaks off in the pre-combustion chamber; pull the injector and fish out the tip with a magnet. You can crank the engine before installing the new plug to blow out any small fragments that you didn't get with the magnet.

The glo-plug story seems to get a lot of attention. Maybe someone should post a wiring diagram and modification notes for installing this system in the FAQ or some place on the site where we could send people when they ask the question. It seems to come up again and again. Just wondering, Fred

Blazer84, the wait light in the CUCV is different than the Civvy lights. The CUCV light just comes on when you first turn the key on, and never again. The civvy light that says "glow plugs" is wired directly to light when the glow plugs are recieving power. You should be able to see your voltage guage dropping when the glow plugs kick on. I am willing to bet your plugs are still cycling properly, you just expecting the light. I think the click you are hearing is the glow plug relay on the firewall under the hood.

I would post a wiring diagram to convert to manual glow plugs if I knew how. I guess maybe I should hook up my new in the box scanner and then I could scan in the picture. I will work on it.

As for A/C 60g plugs, they are self regulating and can be left on for a long time. The old 9gs could burn out in as little as 12 seconds! I learned that the hard way with my first 83 6.2 that got a brand new defective glow plug controller. 1st set of glow plugs lasted less than 2 weeks after replacing the controller. Automatic controllers are great until they start not working right, then its time for the Manual button!:ro)

:) I'm not up on how to use a computer for anything other than a typewriter! I'm no help at posting drawings, etc. Some day I may have time to learn more about "Modern Technology". I'm glad I'm not the only one. Fred

Manual wiring for the glow plug is very easy. Incidentally, when my original solenoid went bad, I just plucked out a spare Ford Pinto starter solenoid and installed it. I think it is only slightly larger than the original, but any could be used.

Run a wire from your ignition switch or from a circuit on your circuit breaker panel that is controlled by the ignition switch to a spring loaded toggle or push button switch on your dash. Run a wire from your switch to the + side of the relay on the solenoid. The - side of the relay must go to a good electrical ground. Run a 10 gauge wire to one side of the solenoid from a 12 volt power source. The glow plug electrical wire is then hooked to the other terminal of the solenoid. The glow plug wire branches into a wire for each side. If your glow plug wire is not long enough to make it to the solenoid then splice in the appropriate length of 10 gauge wire. Be sure you crimp and HOT solder both connections as a lot of current will be passing thru that wire!!! The factory glow plug wire has a section of fuse wire included in it to protect the solenoid, but I don't have one in mine.

I didn't have spare battery buss under the hood so I fabricated a battery buss on a fender well. I used a 1/4 in. piece of micarta (about 4 in. long) that I bolted to the fender with two bolts. I put spacers between the micarta and the fender well so I could install the buss without touching the fender. I flattened a piece of copper water pipe and put it in the center of the micarta for the buss. On one end I fastened a 3/8 bolt for mounting the two positive cables fom the batteries, the cable to the starter, and the + wire from the alternator. On the other end, I fastened a #10 screw to provide power to the glow plug solenoid as well as power going to our camper and my ham radio.

My stock 6.2L has a temperature circuit in the right rear head. It won't let the glow plug relay work if your engine is warm (glow plugs not needed). I connected it between the dash switch and the relay. It is not absolutely necessary to have it in the circuit, but it does prevent me from using the glow plugs if the engine is warm. I don't know it the military version engine has it or not. It is smaller in size compared to the glow plug controller on the left rear head.


:grd:

Blazer84,

Caution!!!! FYI, double check your glow plugs, as I've been told that the military Blazers / Trucks need different glow plugs than those used in civilian models, because it is a 24 volt setup. They are usually not available at your local parts house.
I will see what I can find, or call a local military vehicle surplus yard. They would know as well.

Dean

If you were to convert to a manual system, connect it to 12V source and use the 60G's. Makes life easier when on the road, in the event of needing to purchase a glo-plug or two.

I'm speaking of a complete system, momentary switch, relay, wiring and glo-plugs; bypassing the existing wiring completely.

Honeslty, based on info I have read on the MV list I dont think they are 24v plugs. They drop the voltage down using a resistor bank on the firewall, so that they can pull the load from both batteries (24 volt at the batts) and make it 12v at the gp. And like I stated before, I am pretty sure Blazer's controller is probably working fine. Although we havent heard from him in some time. I am hoping he can report back based in the info I listed above.

another update. The glow plug system on my cucv seems to be working properly.as stated before I have 13G glow plugs I was able to remove all of them with no problem,one had a little carbon build up.My problem is on start. It starts right up ,runs for a few seconds then shuts down. You can try to resatart it a couple of times and usually on the second try it starts,fast idles and goes to slow idle. I discovered my Stanadyne 80 fuel filter is leaking at the rubber o rings where it goes on to the base.I noticed some small spots on the tailgate. I am losing the prime on my fuel system and thats why it starts right up then dies but restarts and runs fine. I know I can go to a Racor filter but I would like to keep the stock system on the truck. I tried Silicone on the filter connections but it failed. Any ideas? Its a 84 cucc . Gulf Coast Mississippi. tks Chuck

Remove the filter and look at the o-rings on it. They might be cracked. Replace filter with new filter and see if problem goes away. Filter housing could be leaking from water in fuel sensor, behind filter element. It can be removed and put a new o-ring on it or tap the port and put a plug in it.:cool:

is there a way to check the glow plug function without removing them? Should I replace them all if some are bad? if replacing some, can I mix and match by installing the 60g no matter what is in now? Thanks Brent