Heres a good one, driving home from the hockey game tonight, the check engine light came on intermittentley .......then LOUD diesel sound . That stayed.... got a code 35 seems to start ok but man its loud.

0. Describe in detail the problem you are having. Please be as descriptive as possible.Loud engine
1. Does the engine crank, or 'turn over'? Yup
1a. Does the engine start and run? yup
1a1. If the engine does not start - Crack injector line (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2188140#post2188140): do you have fuel? Yes/No
1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & the amount of time (seconds) lit.yea
1c. Ambient Condition (temperature outside indicate F or C) _10C____ °
1d. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer).ok
1e. Are you experiencing stalling? no but sounds like it wants to
1f. If Stalling, describe (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump etc)
1g. If Stalling, do you notice loss of dash or instruments?no
-note if experiencing stalling,you must indicate PMD location in #24.

1h. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. Cone filters have lost disk and stopped air to turbo. good boost 10 Lbs
1.1 Lift pump test (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39350)- describe results ok
2. Service Engine Light while running?- intermittent
2a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes 3. Model year 1994
3a. Odometer reading (indicate if in miles or km)335000K
3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump) dont know
3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......)dont know
4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) yes
5. List exact results on engine codes (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/dtc.php):35
6. Air Filter condition (visual check)ok
7. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed/condition unknown/mileage since changed) bout 10,000k
8. Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened) ok
8a. Known condition and age of the batteries. good8b. Are batteries of differing age or are they a matched set? matched
8c. Condition of Major Grounds (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157085). (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened) yes
9. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? dont know
10. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes
11. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? yes
12. Have you used the block heater, and does this effect engine starting?(only try for starting problems) no
13. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? no
14. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues?not that I know...its dark out
15. Turbo check out (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368)- pass
16. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit) S
17. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500
18. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-diesel, #2 Diesel, #1Diesel, SVO/WVO, other summer diesel With 2 stroke
18a. If running a VO (Veggie Oil fuel) setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade, or packaged system)
19. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list.2 stroke
20. Please indicate geographic region you are in: (Canada)
21. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having?If you hold it wfo it would give code 35, gutless till restart
22. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. turbomaster, k&n no muffler or cat
23. Upon unscrewing the fuel cap (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42338), do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? no
24. Location of PMD/FSD (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39436)? On the pump/remoted over intake/remoted out of engine bay (Under front bumper
24a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade
24b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. good
25. Are ALL glow plugs in proper working order as per this thread (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39182)?yes

these are almost the exact same issues i had about not even a month after i got my truck. Sounds like a PMD/IP issue. Most likely your PMD.

best thing to do. get a remote mounting kit from heath diesel. you get a 7 year warranty on the pmd (FSD when off the IP) and it gets the PMD off the IP and into a much much cooler part. with a heat sink to boot.

what say you guys? PMD right?

The pmd is new, and its remote mounted under the bumper on a heat sink, I have a spare, I can try today though

I was thinking that it may have sheard the key on the pump drive and frigged up the injector timing...sound right?

DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)

Both of these codes would indicate,, an optical sensor,,issue. Have you had a batch of bad fuel?
try running a double or triple batch of DieselKleen or the like to clean the Optical sensor.
that is limp mode you are having,, and yes it makes it really loud, I don't believe its a PMD at all. BUT I've been wrong before,, just ask my wife!

try running a double or triple batch of DieselKleen or the like to clean the Optical sensor

Kizif - DON'T TRY THIS UNTIL someone with way more knowledge chimes in but:
Wouldn't it speed things up if one were to pull the fuel filter and fill the fuel manager with DieselKleen or something like it? Or is this asking for newer and better (worser) trouble?

Way More Knowledge? than me or you?
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264549
check out this tread? and use the search funtion for code 35 to maybe find a better answer than mine! Yeah he could use it in the fileterbowl,, but what if he has a whole tank full of shity fuel? 2 or 3 times the recomended amount won't hurt a thing. Geesh!

:lol2: Way more than ME - NOT you! :o:

I'm not arguing against your proposal & I didn't mean not to put cleaner(s) in the tank. Probably should be done regularly anyhow.
But, if the optical sensor is just dirty wouldn't getting the stuff to it faster get the engine running right faster - Instead of waiting to see if the stuff in the tank will eventually clear things up?
I'm just not sure if putting it in the fuel manager wouldn't be too strong a solution and screw things up worse. I guess I wasn't very clear on what I meant --- Sorry.

Thanks guys, i'm woking on it here, I have another IP , so me thinks I will just change out the optical sensor, The thought that i got some shitty fuel crossed my mind....Ill keep you posted

Now im getting codes 33,34, 77???and 78 I changed the optic sensor.........what the hell is a stepper motor fault?

According to the 95 gm manual dtc34 willset when:engine is operating at a steady rpm,a 5degree difference inmeasured and desired injection timingfor 20.8 seconds.
Under diagnostic aids :a hard startand possible poor performance condition might exist. Measured injection timingwill freezeat the pointof the fault.
If dtc34 is being set afterinjection pump installation check for the following: injection not being set,Injection timing procedure not being performed correctly,camshaft key sheared,a damaged crank sensor may also set a dtc34.
dtc33 is a baro sensor high[low vacume]
There is no dtc 77
dtc 78 is wastegate sol. fault
I could give you the whole checking procedure if you have a tech 1 or equivelent.

Thanks, that is very helpful! I Checked the stepper motor and there it was, flopping around on the side of the IP......the screws had come right out. Screwed that thing back on ........Wow brand new truck!!!! Put my foot into it, tires spinning, boost was at 12 psi ( never went past 10 before) , got up to about 65 MPH then on comes the light again, and stayed on. This is what it was doing before. when I shut it off and restart it the light is off, and goes like hell, but if i hold it WFO the light will come on again, code 35 and poor performance.........But at least its not loud anymore!

Did you check out the vacume system? A dtc 35 can be set by other codes that are present. The plastic vacume line that runs under the intake to boost sol. tend to crack. Check for vacume at vac. pump,boost sol. and at turbo.

Ok I got the truck back to where it was before, turns out that the stepper motor was out all the way and jamed. I had another one here so I replaced it. Motor is not quite as strong up top with the new stepper but it starts very well. The boost is back down to 10-12 psi from the 15-17 that it was this morning. I never touched the turbomaster to bring it back down, seems to have done this on its own. Still getting the code 35 when I hold it wide open for a long time......the check light comes on and stays till restart, but its not near as dead as it was before when the light came on.....must be on to somthing here.
So will a plugged vacume line to the turbo bring in a code 35? I have a turbo master so I just plugged it.

Bump

No it shouldn't,, have you tried the fuel treatment?
and with my 94 with turbomaster,,, if I have it up too high with the boost,,, above 2500 rpms,, and about 8 psi or so,, it will kick a check engine light,, as the ECM see's too much boost. and it can go limp mode also. you can back down the TM or you can install a Boost Fooler. Do a search for that term, and you will find out how to do it,, its pretty simple. Too much boost, if your not towing,, is just wasting fuel. IMO

Yes i have tried the treatment, no change. I will look into a boost fooler......i'll keep posting till i get this. Thanks

Do you have vacume to the baro sensor on the firewall? As said before,that will set a dtc35. If it was overboosting it should have set another dtc.

I have the vacuum on the firewall, where do i put the boost fooler, there or the one on the intake?

Search is your friend,,, 10 seconds and I found this thread.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263675&highlight=boost+fooler

I put on the boost fooler ......Works PERFECT!!!!!!The truck hs never started and run so well. Thanks to all! One more question though, If the boost foller works on the map sensor on the intake, can I install one on the vacuum sensor and do an EGR delete and get rid of the vacuum pump? This is an "S" code motor