Im new at this,someone please tell me they are talking about. My 05 LLY is running good

Just do a search for either mod. there are a hundred of threads on both of these. They are worthwile , simple mods.

EGR, "exhaust gas recirculation", introduces some exhaust back into the intake manifold to reduce emissions (NOx, I believe, by reducing combusion temperatures since exhaust gas isn't going to burn again). Works well with gasoline engines, but with injected diesels there's soot in the exhaust that builds up in the intake manifold. I'm would guess it's worse because there isn't even any wet fuel to help wash it down.

If you search this site, you can find pictures of intake manifolds with less than 50k miles that have significant buildup.

A blocker plate can be purchased (e.g., Kennedy Diesel), or made, that slips in between the pipes at a coupling on top of the motor. This blocks the EGR and keeps soot out of the intake.

Some models, notably California and New England(?), i.e., non-FE7, detect a problem and turn on the check engine light. A small circuit can be purchased, called the "Finger Stick", to avoid the CEL and other error codes.

The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system takes engine vapors and also dumps it into the intake. (Others, please correct me.) The vapors travel through the intercooler and leave a gooey, oily mess and then starts to drip from the blue intercooler hoses. There may be some question as to whether it could partially clog the system, and again, the stuff ends up in the intake manifold and engine. The various ideas presented are how to route it harmlessly to the outside without leaving oil puddles under the truck.

Good description, Jake. I'll add a couple things about the PCV reroute. Because of the design, the current PCV setup actually applies a vacuum to the PCV setup, thus sucking oily mist into the turbo, through the intercooler, etc. Once you get enough oil in there, you can actually blow your intercooler boots off under power... which results in you having no power.

Most people who reroute their PCV's never see the first drop of oil out if the hoses.

These mods are something you are going to want to do...

My PCV reroute has been on the truck nearly a year. It's vented without a catch can and I have not seen any oil deposits or drips any where.

Good description, Jake. I'll add a couple things about the PCV reroute. Because of the design, the current PCV setup actually applies a vacuum to the PCV setup, thus sucking oily mist into the turbo, through the intercooler, etc. Once you get enough oil in there, you can actually blow your intercooler boots off under power... which results in you having no power.

Most people who reroute their PCV's never see the first drop of oil out if the hoses.

These mods are something you are going to want to do...
Randy's right, two of the cheaspest and best mods you can do to help the longevity of your motor. By the way Randy hows the kodiac mouthpiece been thinking of getting one.

I've notice some oil with my pcv re route and its only been 2 months.

By the way Randy hows the kodiac mouthpiece been thinking of getting one.

I'm pretty happy with it. You can definitely tell it's there - my fuel mileage is up a little (.5-1 mpg, depending on how I drive it), and the power is definitely noticeable. I don't have any gauges, so I can't tell about EGT's.

I've heard that the mp's are beginning to show up again. If they're available through PartsDirect, that should make them available for around $70+/- + s&h - which would make this mod a no-brainer. I paid $135 for mine shipped - at that time, they just weren't available.

how do I pump the old fluid out of the torque converter and lines before adding new filters and fluid to trans

Interested in the EGR Block/PCV reroute...anyone know if these mods will cause vehicle to fail a smog test?

Interested in the EGR Block/PCV reroute...anyone know if these mods will cause vehicle to fail a smog test?

Smog test? I doubt it. Emissions inspection? Pretty good bet they will. You should ask someone from your state to get an accurate answer.

Dealer is working on my truck and called wanting to know what the hoses were for, his tech thinks I should put a filter on the ends of the hose so moisture does not go up the hoses into the engine. I think he's wrong.

Ask him why doesn't the LB7 engine (not CA) have a filter on the crankcase vent pipe? LOL

Call Tony Burkhard for the kits and info for your area of smog test crap. EFI will shut off the lites and signals. Put a straight pipe sleeve thru your cat if you have to have one of those. DPF will have to be installed for smog test unless Burkhard has another idea now on that smog test bypass trick. With a clean tune it will surprise you how much it doesn't smoke and how it will run like a wildcat with turpentine on his ass. Just with EGR delete kit you pick up 30 hp from dyno tests from several racers to show it's flow increase.

how do I pump the old fluid out of the torque converter and lines before adding new filters and fluid to trans

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239630&highlight=hoot

Read the DIY forum, there's tons of information there.

Sorry I'm an idiot... so please pardon the dumb question, but this PVC "reroute" everyone is talking about doesn't really "reroute" the PVC but more "removes" it. Correct?
Can it be done with a simple hose replace or does one need any special machined adapters along with the hoses. If so where can I get these?

Yes I did a search, now my head hurts.

Thanks

Sorry I'm an idiot... so please pardon the dumb question, but this PVC "reroute" everyone is talking about doesn't really "reroute" the PVC but more "removes" it. Correct?
Can it be done with a simple hose replace or does one need any special machined adapters along with the hoses. If so where can I get these?

Yes I did a search, now my head hurts.

Thanks

No... it is a reroute. PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation - something you cannot "remove". You can block it (and blow all the seals in your engine) or you can reroute it. You cannot remove it.

Click the link in my signature to see how I did it... using simple tools and materials from Lowes. There are kits - Tony Burkhard sells one, there may be others.

Randy,
Thanks for the reply and link.
Correct me if I'm wrong, all you are doing is "Removing" the PVC from the motor and "Rerouting" the vent lines to under the truck.

You don't reinstall the PVC valve, correct? I haven't look, is there even a valve like on a gasser?
I know that you can not block it.

PVC is Polyvinyl Chloride - the stuff you use for plumbing in your house. PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation - is the system for venting the crankcase of your engine. The factory design dumps that out right in front of the turbo in the turbo mouthpiece, which acts like a huge vacuum on the system thereby literally sucking oily mist out of your engine and into the intercooler system where it causes problems. There is not a valve... and yes, all we're doing is rerouting it down the back of the wheel well and down the frame rail. Most people - like me - have never seen the first drop of oil come out of the rerouted hose.

Only thing left to do is to cap off the feed to the turbo inlet... which many of us have done with a bar stool cap.

Thanks again for the clarification.
I do know the difference between PVC and PCV.

Like I stated in my first post... I'm an idiot.
I hadn't looked so I was unsure if there was a PCV valve or not.
That's why I was asking about if it was a "reroute the valve", or "remove the valve".

But since there isn't a valve, I now understand the entire concept.

Thanks again.

On a gasser, the PVC operates when there is no vacuum in the manifold. Vacuum in the manifold holds it shut, or there would be a huge vacuum leak, thus causing extremely high idle.

When you hammer down on a gasser, vacuum levels drop, and the PVC opens up, allowing excess crankcase pressure to be expelled.

With a diesel, since there is no throttle body, as fuel input creates RPM and power, there's no need to have a PCV. You just dump the crankcase pressure to a point that has vacuum, and the most convenient (not best by any means) point was at the turbo inlet.

Where can i buy an egr blocker plate?

Many of our site vendors here sell them. With an '06 LLY/LBZ, most likely you'll need a fingerstick or tuning to get rid of the codes/CEL's that blocking the EGR would create

I carry EGR blocker plates and fingersticks if interested. PM me or email me if I can help anyone out. mark@bighogcustoms.com