I am looking into getting a 3" body lift. I checked out 2 companies, One I can't remember the name and they have them for a 94 GMC 1500 etc etc, EXCEPT for diesel. and the other company, which Trialmaster, says 'not recommended for diesel'.
So I was just wondering if any of you guys have body lifts on your truck, or have looked into them, and what your discoveries where as to why.
Thanks!
Chris

Well, since there's no hockey this year, you could always find enough hockey pucks to drill. J/k

I'd go for dropped torsion keys though.

Why not a suspension lift instead? Just curious.
I have no idea why a body lift would not work on with a diesel engine????

The company's say it interfers with the cooling of a diesel

What are your goals with a body lift (tire clearance, ride height, etc.)?

My truck has one and so do a couple other peoples trucks that post here.
It was already in my truck when I bought it.

ok.. why not a suspension lift.... $$$$$$$
this body lift idea was suposed to be something I can do for not a lot of money.
And why... just to seperate is from the rest of em, just a tiny bit. Plus it looks cool.

How would/could if affect the cooling? And what company are you referring to?

I bought the performance accesorries 3" lift. It says it not for diesel, but I knew it would work. When I had to turn my '97 gas tahoe in at lease termination it had to be stock, so I sold and transfered the body lift onto a '97 diesel tahoe, NO sweat. The only hassle was the air intake box on my 95 which is different than the '97's, but it wasn't too hard to work around.

So even tho the kit says 'not for diesel', or 'not recommended for diesel' it still works no problem??? I heard a few different reason(guesses) of why i won't work: steering, vacuum lines, cooling, fuel tank hardware. etc etc.

ok.. why not a suspension lift.... $$$$$$$
this body lift idea was suposed to be something I can do for not a lot of money.
And why... just to seperate is from the rest of em, just a tiny bit. Plus it looks cool.

How would/could if affect the cooling? And what company are you referring to?With the body lift, and you should be ok even with a diesel, your ride and handling shouldn't change but,
If you are unsure of the body lift and just want a couple of inches then there is this other way
Go buy an "add a leaf" for the rear springs and then crank your front torsion bars up a bit to make truck step level. Quick, cheap and fast and should not effect the cooling of the truck
Your ride will stiffen up a bit and this might work better if you off road much, which you need to stay away from adding blocks to the rear springs

I have had a 3" body lift on mine for well over 50K. It is a performance accessories. They would not sell it to me for my 1 ton and especially since it was a diesel. When asked why, they had no idea. SO, I told them I also had a 3/4 ton with a 350. They sold me one and I have had no problems whatsoever with it. I didn't even need to install the extra filler neck for my fuel tank. As to why they say "NO" for the diesel. A little extra research I did before I installed it was definitely due to the cooling factor as diesels are extremely susceptable to heat. I have pulled with, towed with, and tortured my truck and have never had a cooling problem. Just make sure you keep the shroud in! Go slow and take your time. Your sure to say a few swear words, but hey, that's what it's all about:D . Good Luck

How does raising the body affect the cooling? or i guess 'apparently' affect the cooling.

Also......
Is there any modifications that have to be done to get the 3" body lift in there?
or is it basically jack up the body, install the inserts, bolt is up, and drive away??

How does raising the body affect the cooling? or i guess 'apparently' affect the cooling. The radiator and top of the fan shroud go up 3" and the fan stays down. The bottom of the fan is below the bottom of the radiator on mine.

There were some pics on this in the archive.

Also......
Is there any modifications that have to be done to get the 3" body lift in there?
or is it basically jack up the body, install the inserts, bolt is up, and drive away??
On mine, the only mod done was a steering link extension included in my kit. It was a PITA, but really the only extra I had to do. BTW, my bed and body mounting bolts were about rusted through, so mine needed new bolts which was the selling point for the lift):h

the fuel filler neck was long enough??
and do you have any pics of your body lift?

[QUOTE=Elky]the fuel filler neck was long enough??-----YES



Do you have any pics of your body lift?----NO-sorry

I would stay away from body lifts that a half ass way of lifting a truck, Jerry Rigging is what body lift equals..

I would stay away from body lifts that a half ass way of lifting a truck, Jerry Rigging is what body lift equals..
I disagree. Jerry Rigging is when you use 3" black-pipe for your lift blocks and lag bolts from the cheap bin at Lowe's. Body lifts are perfectly safe and effective when done correctly!

This is what I did to fix the shroud problem.

It's just money Suspesion lifts are the way to go.

I agree, suspension lifts are the way to go. That is why I am trashing the f...ing IFS and going to the dana 60. But for $100 as opposed to $1000, I like the $100 much better---quicker and easier. Also, I was in college at the time and did it in my driveway on a Saturday night----I know, I'm a nerd.:rolleyes:

[QUOTE=Elky]
And why... just to seperate is from the rest of em, just a tiny bit. Plus it looks cool.

I also like to be a little closer in hood height when I pull up next to a STOCK ford or dodge, and no, it's not because I have to compensate for something.

So what the solid axle going to run you with the fabricating?

There are kits available for less that $1k I think they are made by Off Road Unlimited. They are basically the brackets to use 80's models leaf springs with Ford Dana 44s and 60s as they have driver's side front diffs.

So what the solid axle going to run you with the fabricating?
Luckily, I found a 1979 D60 out of a F350 which is perfect and it was freshly rebuilt. After the regear and custom fabwork I am doing plus a few parts purchased from aftermarket dealers, a little under $2,000 including the axle ($600). This obviously does not include my time, which is free of course:rolleyes: .


Some places, which I will not name, sell the bracketry for $800-$1500. Then you have to buy the crossover steering for another $600. But with a little planning and time...

There are kits available for less that $1k I think they are made by Off Road Unlimited. They are basically the brackets to use 80's models leaf springs with Ford Dana 44s and 60s as they have driver's side front diffs.
Yes, but that is just the brackets. That does not include mainly the axle. Also the steering, shocks, driveshaft, leaf springs, u-bolts, track bar.........the list goes on and on and then on some more

If you are using an axle that old I guess you either don't have ABS or you don't care to keep it operational. I said it was basically brackets, I wouldn't pay that much for them either. Have welder will travel:ro)

Oh yeah, I almost forgot:D , for stuff like this, friends are an invaluable resource for time, suggestions, and gear swaps:rolleyes: .

If you are using an axle that old I guess you either don't have ABS or you don't care to keep it operational. I said it was basically brackets, I wouldn't pay that much for them either. Have welder will travel:ro)
Exactly. I don't have ABS on my truck. Not a big fan of ORU anyways. They are waaaaay too expensive! Aren't welders great?! As far as the brackets, I was agreeing with you, then adding 3 more cents:lol:

Hey, your 3 and my 2 and we could go in on some bazooka joe!

mmmmmmmmmm, melted metal

Hey, your 3 and my 2 and we could go in on some bazooka joe!
Sounds good!

Back to the main question lupey, what do you think of body lifts? Seeing as you have one---opinion?

mmmmmmmmmm, melted metal
Smells good don't it?

BTW lupey, which side is your egt probe on and where/how close to the engine did you tap the intake manifold for your boost gauge?

Cheap and clears the tires. I don't see anything wrong with them as long as you don't go more than 3" at that point it becomes a safety issue. You don't want to hit the brakes and have the cab keep going. Body lifts are like beers, best for use with moderation.:beerchug:and they just make you FEEL bigger.

Cheap and clears the tires. I don't see anything wrong with them as long as you don't go more than 3" at that point it becomes a safety issue. You don't want to hit the brakes and have the cab keep going. Body lifts are like beers, best for use with moderation.:beerchug:
Very eloquently stated:Nothing_f !!

I put my egt in the downpipe and I cheated on my boost gauge by putting a T at my IAT sensor.

I put my egt in the downpipe and I cheated on my boost gauge by putting a T at my IAT sensor.
Guess that's one good thing with having the electronically controlled engine:D .

With the EGT, do you notice it accurate enough?

I think I've read here that a post turbo egt probe will read 200deg lower than a pre turbo.

I think I've read here that a post turbo egt probe will read 200deg lower than a pre turbo.
Do you find that true?

Hey lupey,

I'll probably talk to you tomorrow night. I have to get up early. I am driving 600 miles later today. I'll be leaving around 8am. Talk to you later. Thanks for all your help!

Dan

Tire size, tread pattern, suspension articulation and power is how you increase vehicles off-road worthiness. A suspension lift does this NO better than a body lift.

I have run a body lift on every truck I've ever owned. This combined with good shocks, bigger tires and factory suspension softening has gotten me everywhere I've wanted to go.

Suspension lifts increase vehicles center of gravity by moving the body and frame up a given amount of inches while a body lift leaves your heavy frame and drivetrain lower a big plus in off camber situations. A suspension lift gets you a few inches higher but lowers torsion bars down below the protection of the frame and they are in there for a reason. Fracture critical is the term used in reguards to spring steel under a torsional load, damage to the surface from a boulder or whatever creates a weakness that will cause a torsion bar to fail violently. The supension lift will get you a few more degrees of break over angle but at the risk of seting torsion bars on the ground that advantage is not worth it. If I drive over a steep hill I might drag my frame on the top, but that's OK it is designed to handle that. Suspension lifts add 200-400lbs of extra weight that won't help you off road, compared to a body lifts 15lbs.

A body lift is a set it and forget it, no alignment to be redone. A suspension lift by its design adds alot of bracketry which requires periodic inspection of the faseners. You also will never find an aftermarket suspesion lift that has as much structural integrity as the factory frame design.

Consider this when you think the body lift is the cheap mans lift, for REAL off-roading the body lift is superior in almost every way.

Sorry, but for real off roading a properly designed supension setup is the way to go. I found my best truck was built with a set of new longer leaf springs that allows the tires to travel and maintain contact with the ground at al times. I'm not talking about lifting the truck more than 3-4" inches and running correctly sided tires for the truck and lift installed. You can do alot of off roading with either body or supension lift if you know what you are doing while driving off road.

I have never seen a bolt on suspension lift kit that offers extended length leaf springs. And I totally agree that longer leaf springs are the Jimmy for off-road flex, but that's a custom job that lift manufacturers don't touch.

both of you have valid points, but I think we all have to agree that the IFS system on all or our 88+ trucks is well.....worthless. Very little gear ratios, limited slips (none), lockers, long travel lifts available. It is also very weak with too many moving parts!

This is what I did to fix the shroud problem.
Lupey... did you ditch the bottom half of the shroud?

Before I get a bunch of hate mail, let me qualify worthless. I do agree that chevy has the nicest riding truck of the big 3 in their 1/2 ton trucks. That is great for speed demons and daily drivers like my dad who has absolutely no desire to do anything outside of oem specifications, crazy. But if you really want to off-road or do a lot of deep snow or mud, the ifs is just not adequate. The amount of articulation and lack of aftermarket is just not cutting it. I wish that chevy would go back to a solid front in at least their 3500s. And no, the H1 hummer is not in the same field as our trucks so don't say it has IFS and IRS.

Lupey... did you ditch the bottom half of the shroud?
Since he is not on, I will say I believe he did not.

Before I get a bunch of hate mail, let me qualify worthless. I do agree that chevy has the nicest riding truck of the big 3 in their 1/2 ton trucks. That is great for speed demons and daily drivers like my dad who has absolutely no desire to do anything outside of oem specifications, crazy. But if you really want to off-road or do a lot of deep snow or mud, the ifs is just not adequate. The amount of articulation and lack of aftermarket is just not cutting it. I wish that chevy would go back to a solid front in at least their 3500s. And no, the H1 hummer is not in the same field as our trucks so don't say it has IFS and IRS.
BUT it does have those and you also right our trucks ain't in it's class, but they sure are nice for offroading. I believe the IFS is fine for 90% of everyone out there including off road use. For the other 10% or so then custom mods are the way to go, the only way.

As for as no extended leaf springs, if you look for them you will find them. Any 4" or higher kit with no rear blocks pretty much has longer than factory rear springs. Try to find the kits that maintain shackle angles with a higher lift and you found it. I ordered new springs from national spring in CA., I think, for springs on my 82 K1500 that grew to almost 8' tall by the time I sold it, with D44 front and GM14 locked rear on TSL's. It had a stock 6.2 and could go bout anywhere between fuel stops, carried 120 gallons of diesel in 4 tanks on the truck. And rode like a dream too.

Looks cool? :rolleyes: GM trucks show way too much frame to begin with, now you want to show even more? -:t To each his own.
Chad

I have the Trailmaster 6" lift and it works greats!! The rear articulates like nobodies business, as for the front....it falls a little short. The solid axle would be great, but I'm looking at about $4000+, not a bill I need at this point. I have an add-a-leaf in the rear and 3"blocks. Eventually I want to go to custom springs and Revolver shackles. When I was in the market for a lift I was concidering the body lift but found a 2-3" susp lift for about $500. I opted for the 6" full suspention lift because I had to have the 35" tires, it gets the diff off the ground.

Want a good off roader? Get a 1980s toyota extended cab and wedge a 350 into it. Get a dirt cheap suspension lift and a plazma torch to trim all the sheet metal you can off of it.

Then, use your 6.5 to trailer it to the Lake Tahoe entrance to the Rubicon Trail and PARK the Chebby.

THATS 4-Wheelin. Right in my back yard.

But, that's just me http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/rockon.gif

"When approaching a big rock, rev 'er till the valves float, pop the clutch, stun the rock and sneak around it"

Want a good off roader? Get a 1980s toyota extended cab and wedge a 350 into it. Get a dirt cheap suspension lift and a plazma torch to trim all the sheet metal you can off of it.

Then, use your 6.5 to trailer it to the Lake Tahoe entrance to the Rubicon Trail and PARK the Chebby.

THATS 4-Wheelin. Right in my back yard.

But, that's just me http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/rockon.gif

"When approaching a big rock, rev 'er till the valves float, pop the clutch, stun the rock and sneak around it"
YEA :ro)

Ran 35/12.50r15 BFG mud's on a '97 Tahoe 2dr gas, with only 3" of body lift ran that way for almost five years till the lease ran out. Required some trimming on the inside/back of the front fender wells, and I removed the air dam under the bumper. With sway bar removed I had 11" of front wheel travel.

yeapper That works too.

"When approaching a big rock, rev 'er till the valves float, pop the clutch, stun the rock and sneak around it"[/QUOTE]
That's damn near the funniest thing I have ever read. Thanks for making my night!:funnypost

Sure thing! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif I heard that sitting around a campfire at Rubicon Springs when out on day 2 of a run many many years ago.

"When approaching a big rock, rev 'er till the valves float, pop the clutch, stun the rock and sneak around it" That's damn near the funniest thing I have ever read. Thanks for making my night!:funnypost[/QUOTE]

I did not ditch the lower shroud. I cut it out as the trailmaster kit recommended to let the bottom couple inches of the fan extend below the bottom shroud.