Guys:


I just got back from a hunting trip. Put 4000 miles on the 2003 DMax in about eight days.


Got around to washing the sucker today only to discover that my paint is ruined. I have literally hundreds, if not thousands, of small chips, both on the lower half of the truck behind the tires, as well as the hood where the bug deflector should go.


The bottom quarter of the truck is swiss cheese! I'm talking rock chips front to back!


I'm running 285 Revos, no lift. I sure wish I would have had mud flaps now!


There is not enough touch up paint in the world to get all these chips, and with so many, it would look like crap anyway.


Is this supposed to happen? I've done a lot of four-bying in my day, and I would expect some nicks after a long hunting trip, but this seems quite a bit excessive. I mean, if this is normal, and I repaint the truck, it will just hapen again next time. If don't paint, I'm well on my my to a bead blast finish. I'm talking hundreds and hundreds of rock chips here!


I'm seriously considering Line-X'ing the whole friggin bottom of the truck.


Am I the only one?


Very disappointed with 12,000 miles on the truck! Is this defective paint?


Rick

Yes, the same thing happened to me ... I was running 265's with the Husky mudflaps ...not lifted at the time. Drove about 40 miles on a gravel road (30-40 mph) ... next time I washed truck my rear quarter panels were chipped like hell ... I took one looked and thought WTF!?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


I ended up spot painting the chips with touch-up paint which turned out ok ... I have since lifted the truck and have installed "real" mudflaps based on the rock-blasting experience. I don't see how one could drive anywhere off the pavement without mud flaps.


On edit: Note, this was with 3K miles on my beloved truck. I too have thought about LineXing the rear quarters ... actually have seen 2 trucks done this way and it looks pretty darn good. Also going to have the insides of my rear wheel wells LineX'd. Hell, may end up doing the whole truck ... no need to wash. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifEdited by: tophog

I put H2 rims & 315's and when I posted about them I got and heeded a warning about needing splash guards. I put on the Husky Splash guards and they work real good.


Since someone thought it appropriate to give the warning I submit you aren't alone! Nor are you the only one, unfortunately its too late for yours now.


Whatever happened to the clear rubberized stuff the General used to put on by the lower rear of the wheel wells? That stuff did pretty good preventing chips!

Is your truck white? White seems to chip really bad.

Mine's white ... I wonder why GM doesn't treat the quarter panels with the special chip-resistent paint you see on most cars ... you know, kind of a thicker looking paint that has a ripple or cottage cheese look? Wait, I answered my own question ... to save $$$. Edited by: tophog

Mine's red. I'm really bummed. Time for mudflaps for sure. Anybody have pictures of a Line-X'ed quarter?


I've already started with the touch-up paint, and it's looks like it's going to take days. And here I was all ready with the Zaino. Damn!


Rick

Campfire Rick, There is hopehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif I have a friend who bought a used truck he had orange peel placed along sides on bottom it may be stick on but it matches the paint perfectly. It wasn't real expensive either I'll talk to him and get back to you.

I had the same experiance with the last two trucks. Did I learn with this one, NO of course not. But what I was going to do was get the clear protective tape and put it on. I know cableas has it in a roll. Maybe i will get some now that I am thinking about it.

Getting ready for a 4000mile trip myself. I used cabelas 3M clear film for the rocker panels and behind the rear wheels. Of course I've 3M invinca shield on the hood.


When we would go elk hunting in CO, I drove a Toyota 4WD. At sealevel it had 40hp on the ground. Over 3000', who knows? but much less. Consequently to pass some turtles, I had to get right on their bumper to start the pass to keep the risk/exposure down. Knowing about the gravel, grit/sand effect on the paint, I put duct tape on the hood, rocker panels upwards over the lower doors and cut to open. Yes, it looked u g l y, got a lot of looks and comments from hunting friends ~ but, it out front, looking mint and almost 20yrs old. Good truck if traveling light and have all the time in the world.

Same thing happened to me before I put the GM mud flaps on. They look mighty small with the 285's I got now, but do a ok job. I have thousands of chips, with many on the front of the factory rear fender flares. I have pewter paint and the chips, at 100 miles, helped me get over the new truck thing.

Do a Google search for Scothcal - a 3M protective product. Not sure if it was the same product but I saw a welded aluminum boat with that sort of product over the top of another plastic sheet which had the color. The clear looked very thick and durable.

My 2003 2500HD doesn't look too bad with 9K miles on it. There is an occasional chip behind the rear wheels. But my 2001 Tahoe with 34K miles on it really shows the chips behind the rear wheels. You would think GM could put some stoneproof plastic paint down there or something.Edited by: LARSONEM

After hearing these stories, I have decided I really need some sort of flap or splash guard. I had planned to run without because I like the look, but want to keep my paint protected too. What do you guys recommend for flaps/guards?? Are there any that I do not require drilling?? Thanks for the help.


Bob

I think you basically have 2 options ... the molded type like the OEM and Husky mudflaps or the flat, semi-truck type that come in variable sizes/lengths. IMO the molded look the best as far as looks go ...


I had the Husky flaps on my truck for a few months but my rear quarters still took a beating on a gravel road therefore I would not say they provide "complete" coverage...just my experience, mileage may vary.


I have since installed the semi-truck type with weights they do indeed provide complete protection ...and look pretty good to boot. I too would rather not have any flaps, but for me there came a point where severe rock ships made me sacrafice the look for protection.

tophog,

Sharp looking truck you've got there....

How do those flaps mount on?? I notice you have a molded one up front in atleast some of the pictures. Do the nerfs help with front protection?? I like the looks of the Kaydencos but think they might look a little large on a truck that was on stock tires. We'll see. It would be nice to have a large flap like that to keep wash jobs lasting longer as well.


Bob

Here's my flaps:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/6FC_2003gmc-FLAPS.jpg

They'll block any rocks...

The KayDenco (Duraflaps) are very heavy-duty flaps. They made out of some plastic composite, somewhat stiff and at least 3/8" think. They're also textured on the inside to reduce water spray, etc. I'm very happy with them. They do require drilling some holes but only about 2 per fender well if you use the existing holes. They will also make whatever size you want. Mine are custom made as I have a 4" lift so they made some a little longer then standard, you can also get them wider, narrower, etc.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/IMG_1009_Small.jpghttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/IMG_1000_Small.jpg

I have a Black 04, The first 3000 miles I noticed alot of Rock Chips on the Rockers,I then Installed the OEM Mud guards front and rearand Added running boards Like Tophog,Chips have not been any worse except by the rear bumper where the rocks still manage to sling up past the flaps,I also have 285 Revos I dont think they help the prob any.

On my truck I noticed some fairly large chips peeling of the front lip of the box. I've never had one peel there before, so I complained to the dealer. They checked the paint thickness in that area and are repairing the spots under warranty. I'm not sure what the spec is for paint thickness, but apparently not all trucks meet it.


Hoss

Campfire-Rick,


Funny you set up a topic about paint chips just as I was going to include that issue in a short update not about my new truck.


My Duramax was a mess of chips (white) from the word "go". I always had to use white touch-up paint after every tow and just expected that as a normal situation.


Just returned from a 6,000 mile tow through Western hell of winds, sandstorms, dust, ice and snow. Washed the truck off and stood there in shock. 10,000 miles in under a month and no chips. I am going to write that as it shocks me to see absolutly perfect paint on my new truck. My last three GM's could never come close to the paint quality of my new Dodge.

My new (white) 2004 has about 1400 miles on it, and the
bottoms of the side panels are chipped to death. Luckily,
you can't really see it unless your on the ground. I
plan to touch it up when it gets warmer... We have a
1/4 mile gravel road, so the rocks here are horrible.

The best looking mud flaps I've seen are made by Cloud
Rider (go to http://www.cloud-rider.com and run your
mouse over the words "Stone Guards" on the left). I
really like the diamond plate bottoms. Tony
(Max Power) has just shipped me two sets. Should have
added mud flaps first thing... Hindsight...

Paul.

-Tophog, who sells the Duraflaps?

http://www.duraflap.com/

There is a product called "Chip Guard" its sold by a Napa dealer that also sells auto body supplies here where I live in New Jersey. I believe any body supply should carry it. It comes in a small roll and you stick it on (self adhearing). Its clear so you will bearly notice its there.

Believe Cabelas has transparent 3M for approx 20 for 12' roll. I've applied it to my rocker panels and behind the rear wheels. Seems to be good.

Here are some links for the adhesive film protection you see on some vehicles. I believe the primary product is one called ScotchCal trademarked by 3M and used for rock and chip protection on the front and rocker panels of some new cars. I haven't tried any one yet. I just started researching to see about getting it done on my truck.
http://cms.3m.com/cms/US/en/2-168/clelFFC/view.jhtml
http://www.clearmask.com/
http://www.truckshields.com/ (http://www.truckshields.com/)
www.rockblocker.com (http://www.rockblocker.com/)
http://secondaryexposure.draconnect.com/film.html
http://www.idensdetailing.com/scotchcal.htm

Campfire-Rick,


Funny you set up a topic about paint chips just as I was going to include that issue in a short update not about my new truck.


My Duramax was a mess of chips (white) from the word "go". I always had to use white touch-up paint after every tow and just expected that as a normal situation.


Just returned from a 6,000 mile tow through Western hell of winds, sandstorms, dust, ice and snow. Washed the truck off and stood there in shock. 10,000 miles in under a month and no chips. I am going to write that as it shocks me to see absolutly perfect paint on my new truck. My last three GM's could never come close to the paint quality of my new Dodge.

Capt,

My brother has a 2001 Dodge that had paint issues. He had to have some parts repainted under warranty because the paint was coming off without getting hit by rocks.

My 2001 GMC has very few chips at 65,000 miles. Even the body panels that were replaced for various reasons http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif were not unusually chipped.

You seem to be on some sort of GM vendetta... you must be, I mean after all you are claiming Dodge is better than GM ...... Impossiblehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

You seem to be on some sort of GM vendetta... you must be, I mean after all you are claiming Dodge is better than GM ...... Impossiblehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif


Hoot


The race is on. My 95 Dodge 12valve cummins now has 175,000 miles and never had an issue of anykind with the engine and or fuel system. Heck even that crappy 47RE tranny which is stock has never been touched except for oil and filter changes. My 99 Dodge 24valve cummins with 122,000 miles also never a problem with engine but did change lift pump twice and also still on the original tranny. Both have Banks stinger plus. Both trucks haul cattle and slop around in cow crap often and continue to work great. I bought the Dmax because Dodge only offered the SO 235 hp version here in Arnoldafornia and their crew cab sucked and they are butt uglier now. Gotta say, the DMAX is a blast to drive and the ride is super smooth and I can actually hear my CD play!Time will tell which truck holds up better under my conditions. Edited by: maxinDixon

Capt must believe that most people have never seen or heard of Dodge. However, there is quite of body of evidence and data testifying to the quality/reliability of Dodge. No truck is perfect but I, and trusted evaluators like Consumers Report, believe that Dodge is not even worthy of consideration. Time for Capt Mal to stay at TDR. His dog doesn't hunt anymore.

maxinDixon,

You can't compare your old gen Cummins to the Gen III. You gave a list of reasons why you didn't buy an 04 that captainmal begs to differ with you about http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Notice he chose the manual transmission.... certainly not because he likes shifting.

So now he loses the automatic, loses the real rear seating, gains the AAM axle that he now brags about but seems to think his Bosch fuel system is better.

captainmal.... sorry for getting on your case but you know me... I'm guilty of some of the same. You have shown me the light.

Hoot


True, that new Gen III cummins is very quiet. I was impressed and actually the 4X4 I test drove handled very nice and was fairly smooth, yet it still had the same goofy shift that I was used to but didn't like in my other 2 cummins 47RE auto trannys. No tow/haul mode. The big reason I do not have a Gen III cummins today is that it was gutless! No power available here in CA at the time.

I was fortunate, I bought mine used, a 2001, and it came with a Rhino lined bed and rocker panels. I put mud flaps on as well. I spent 3 years in Iceland where 90% of the roads are gravel. I learned my lessons there! A word about nerfs. I had them on my Land Cruiser in Iceland. They make the problem even worse. The rocks hit the nerfs and get deflected up so you have chips higher up on the body than what you would have without them. I ended up putting diamond plate on top of the nerfs kinda like running boards. On my Dmax I put on running boards for the added protection.

Isn't there a Spray on liner that you can get color matched? That may be the trick to curing the rock chips..

Isn't there a Spray on liner that you can get color matched? That may be the trick to curing the rock chips..


Yes, there is. But, for people that have a "BORING" http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif truck, like myself, color matching is not an option. The "BORING" color tends to yellow over time making it look like a huge dog has been "marking his territory"/coating the rockers on the truck.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Throw Up.gif Most of the lighter colored spray on liners will tend to "yellow" somewhat over time. At least that has been my experience with them. However, I have been contemplating putting black on the lower sections. Just can't make up my mind. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

I wonder if the Pewter would turn...


Not sure how the black would look. Another concern is that I sprayed my racks on my fourwheeler with the dupont liner and there are millions of tiny crevics that hold mud. You can never get them completely clean.


Are the regular truck liners easier to clean or do they hold stuff like that?Edited by: Lonewolf867

On my truck I noticed some fairly large chips peeling of the front lip of the box. I've never had one peel there before, so I complained to the dealer. They checked the paint thickness in that area and are repairing the spots under warranty. I'm not sure what the spec is for paint thickness, but apparently not all trucks meet it.


Hoss





I've owned many GM vehicles over the years. All of them used, most pretty old. GM has no specs and doesn't know how to paint anything but s**t! If you don't agree, just open your eyes and watch for the GM vehicles on the road and you will notice that most of them that are close to or more than 10 years old have severe chipped and flaked paint. My dealer told me GM spent something between 3-5M dollars to fix their crappy paint process. Sounds like then didn't spend enough!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif

Look at other brands too. Again the gov environmental regulations made it hard on the manuf to get non-volital, water-based paints to stick properly. Plenty of Fords out there that have been repainted or peeling too. They seem to have gotten a handle on the major peeling though. Guess we'll find out 10 years down the road.Edited by: hoot

Hey everyone,


I thought I would through in my .02 cents here. I see that there is an issue with the paint peeling or chipping. We cannot help out with the peeling, but vehicles that are getting rock chips we certainly can.


JohnnyO - You are correct in saying the material is called ScotchCal from 3M. Companies then make pre-cut kits front end or bulk material for rocker panels and bed rails, etc. The product is clear and depending on who you buy it from the warranties on the film can vary from 2 years to Lifetime.


If I can be of any assistance in answering questions about the material or availability let me know.


Chad