I have a '08 3500HD LMM with the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller. I moved from towing my 5th wheel with a 2500HD LB7. I love the truck and only have an issue with the Integrated Brake Controller. My old truck had the Prodigy Brake controller in it and worked flawlessly and had plently of braking power. The new LMM with the ITBC has almost no braking power, its weak even when turned up to 10. Many times it feels like its pushing the truck and after a longer trip you can smell the rear truck brakes which leads me to belive the truck brakes are doing most of the stopping. If i squeeze the paddles on the left knee pannel from a stop it will not hold the truck even on 10.

I also can tell you that each brake on the trailer is activating and that they worked perfectly with the Prodigy.

Has anyone else had this issue? The dealer says the brake controller is working properly. I am towing a 40ft Fleetwood Toy Hauler if that matters. GVWR = 17200.

Greg

Might want to check your brake adjustment on the trailer. I had an enclosed trailer with a brake controller and it seemed weak as well. Come to find out the pads were way out of adjustment. Got it to stop on a dime after that.

The trailer is fine it worked perfectly with the other controller. I have also checked adjustment and its fine. It seems to be a controller issue.

Does it say trailer connected? What kind of brakes are on the trailer? I have a f'ver with electric/hydraulic... had to put a couple of magnets in trailer to fool IBC to turn on...

Yes it says trailer connected. They are regular Electric Brakes on a toy hauler. Worked awesome with my old controller now they are just weak.

Greg

I tow with both and have not had issues... I would put a voltmeter on it and check.. you might have a bad ground etc... you can turn the setting up to 10 and have some pinch the controller to send the output at the setting you have put in...

You will probably have to check it a connection somewhere in the trailer with it hooked up..

I guess no one is actually reading the post. The brakes worked fine with my other truck just the new truck has the weak brakes when using the factory controller.

yes but how long ago did you tow between the trucks i have had it happen before that with one truck it works just fine but then i went to another and the trailer didn't work like it did on mine come to find out there was a problem with the trailer not the truck and also on the prodigy did you have the boost turned up

I understand your post...

Basically, you need to make sure you have 10V coming out of IBC when it is maxed out.. if not, then take it to the dealer.. if you have 10V.. then you need to see what in the new config is making it act different. Electrical is fun...

Where are you connecting your 7pin plug? Did you add another one to the extra wires under the bed?

By testing the voltage at the trailer this will hopefully give you a clue on what is going on...

I think the IBC is great... had the prodigy before and like the IBC that much more...

But like you said, something is not right...

I understand your post...

Basically, you need to make sure you have 10V coming out of IBC when it is maxed out.. if not, then take it to the dealer.. if you have 10V.. then you need to see what in the new config is making it act different. Electrical is fun...

Where are you connecting your 7pin plug? Did you add another one to the extra wires under the bed?

By testing the voltage at the trailer this will hopefully give you a clue on what is going on...

I think the IBC is great... had the prodigy before and like the IBC that much more...

But like you said, something is not right...


I will check for the proper voltage in a little while here. Yes I did add the 7 way plug in the bed from the factory harness. I hope I think the IBC is just as good or better than the prodigy but right now its hard to think its better when i try to stop and the trailer is pushing.

Greg

My experience is that the IBC is better than the prodigy.. but things can go wrong..

I think you maybe have a wiring issue.. if brakes were good with old controller.. and now not.. I would like you think else where.. could the IBC be bad.. yes.. most dealers have no clue on what they are supposed to do...

I know I had a little fun getting the extra plug working correctly.. all it takes is a loose connection... The wires had a crimp/kink in them which was fun to find...

The IBC is looking for a "ping" every so often... that is how it knows you are connected.. the magnets create the ping. (also why you need to add magnets to fool IBC in Electric/Hydraulic setup like my f'ver)

That said, if the connection is not good.. the "Volts & Amps" will not get to the magnets.. That is what stops the trailer. The Volts with very little amps (i.e. ping) can go over a very small connection.. but when you have really stop (I would think you have 3 axles for 17K) you have a lot of amps going across also...

Btw, have you tried plugging it in the one on the bumper? I tow F'ver on the plug I added, and car trailer via the bumper connection..

I tow with both and have not had issues... I would put a voltmeter on it and check.. you might have a bad ground etc... you can turn the setting up to 10 and have some pinch the controller to send the output at the setting you have put in...

You will probably have to check it a connection somewhere in the trailer with it hooked up..


Good point, and bad ground will play havoc, even though it worked right before. Take lights for example. If you have a bad ground wire, the won't work properly at hook up. However, have you drive around the block they work fine. Why? The pivoting of the trailer at it's point of contact has "bonded" and made a ground, thus the lights working. Trust me, I run in to these problems all the time with semis. Check the ground wire...I know you said it worked fine before, but rodents love to chew on wires or a lot of time where the manufacture makes the bond to the trailer, the screw gets rusty and thus creates a weak ground.

Oh electrical can be so much fun!

I went out there to try to test the truck and now it says Service Trailer Brake System and a 30AMP Fuse is blown all the Fuse Guide Says is Stud 2, dont know if they are related or not. Seems to still be a problem on the truck. Im gonna take it to the dealer again for the Serivce Trailer Brake System as well as the Axle Wrap/Shutter which they are trying to claim is Normal.

Stud 2 (if my memory is correct) is the under the hood and where the always on 12V feed thru the trailer plug is..

This is not hooked up from the factory. You will need to hook it up... Is it hooked up? Take off the cover and you will see a red wire taped up and a empty stud.. you will need a 10mm nut (I believe) to hook it up...

This is the feed that charges your trailer when hooked up...

The fuse blown leads to me a short or something... did you splice in to the wires or use the extra pig tail that was there.. My truck had the wires already there.. just had to put them in the plug in the correct order... I don't know if that is a standard item or not...

If you're blowing a fuse it is most likely a short on the trailer OR the secondary plug that was installed was wired incorrectly.