Proper way to paint plastic [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Proper way to paint plastic


Rattlewagon
03-12-2005, 10:35 PM
I'm painting the textured flares, bumpers and mirrors on my wifes truck. I have searched the forum for answers but as I am a paint novice, I dont understand very well what I need to do.

I was going to use a Duplicolor spray can but I can't find 63U Sport red so I'll have to have it mixed.

So, How do I properly clean the plastic? What primer do I use? Do I have to add any additives? Anyone have an easy way of doing it???

What do you guys think of Martin Seynor paint?

I don't need the plastic smooth, just painted to match the rest of the truck.

Sorry for the long post,

thanks!
dan

markzrt1
03-13-2005, 03:27 AM
Adhesion promoter. I have seen it at walmart.

Reineke
03-13-2005, 05:23 AM
If previously painted, I would lightly sand using a really fine grit and sand what I could off. Then I would clean the surface using paint thinner to remove skin oils from the surface. Contact after this wipe down should be used with vinyl or latex gloves or followed by another wipe down. With red, I would use a light gray primer and give it a nice smooth coat followed by a wet sand using fine grit paper to smooth out the rough parts after it thouroughly dried. I would use gloves during this step to avoid having to wipe it down again. The paint thinner may take off the primer. Give it a few coats of your base color trying not to cover it all in one setting, using long smooth strokes. Put about 3 coats on allowing a few minutes in between, just enough time for the top to get tacky. Then wet sand out the rough edges with vinyl or latex gloves. You can then add one more layer of base or move to the clear. Put about 3 layers of clear on the same way the base was applied. You won't want to wet sand the base due to reducing the clarity. Allow to dry 24 hours before handing. Also, you can go to some auto stores who sell paint and give them your paint code and they will be able to mix up your paint and put it in an aresol can. It will come as a base and will require a clear coat. If you are painting a textured surface, the wet sanding should probably be avoided.

Rattlewagon
03-13-2005, 06:07 PM
Thanks for the responses guy's! Reineke, what grade of sandpaper would you recomend for the prep, primer and base? Any suggestions on primer? Does it need to be a special kind? The local Napa has Martin Seynor, any other recomendations? I was originally thinking of using a regular paint and not a base/clear just to make it easier, but is a base/clear more durable and easier to do?

thanks again!
dan

TheBac
03-13-2005, 06:30 PM
Rattlewagon,

PM partsguy662 (Scott) about NAPA paint...he's a NAPA store mgr. Also does painting on the side....he can help you out...even down to the proper paint match.

Tom

Reineke
03-13-2005, 08:00 PM
Rattlewagon,

As far as the grade of paper, I don't have the grades memorized. The finer the better, but the longer it takes to get the job done. (I'm thinking 600-1100) For the primer, any enamel would get the job done. You get what you pay for. I am not partial to any brands, just what ever is at the store. Whenever I paint plastic, I use aresol cans. I just don't have the air compressor, filters. seperators, spray gun and mask to get the job done right. I also find working with the base and clear is much better than the gloss/high gloss cans. You are not supposed to mix a laquer and an enamel together ie: enamel primer and laquer base. They cause a chemical reaction and provide undesirable results. Good luck with it!

T-Rex
03-13-2005, 08:15 PM
I've heard several body shop guys talk about using a flex additive for painting plastic parts. Talked to guy about his painted bug deflector and he said the same thing--use a flex additive. Finally, I just saw a body shop invoice for about $800 worth of work to a fender and fender flare and it had "flex additive" itemized right there too.

But I don't know much...

WileE1
03-16-2005, 04:35 PM
I wouldn't think it would be too expensive to have a body shop do the work. I had a body shop paint my bumper cover and grill (I just took them the truck they did all the work) cost me 175 bucks......I'd call around.

Yes they use a special additive in the paint to make it give with the flexing of the plastic if not added it will simply spider web. Plastic also shrinks in the cold and expands in the heat and it will crack also.

I have had mine painted since last year, 15000 miles and no problems except a couple tiny rock chips) Also the pitted bumper cover is noticable when painted, I don't mind it at all but the owner of the shop hated it and was affraid I was going too...personally I love it.......
My .02