I'm looking at buying a 33' Tahoe Transport fifth wheel toyhauler. I have a B&W Turnover Ball already on the truck. I know they make kits to convert the fifth wheel to a gooseneck, does anybody have any experience with this? Do they work okay? I would like to avoid having to buy the fifth wheel adapter if it isn't really neccesary.

They work fine as long as the trailer hitch and frame can handle the extra torque. Only the engineers at the trailer factory can tell you this information. The length of the adapter acts like a lever that adds more stress to the parts of the trailer hitch and frame. It's like driving a stake into soft ground. if you pull sideways at ground level, the stake holds. Now pull with the same force from a point two feet above the ground and the stake pulls out. If the manufacturer says the hitch and frame can take this additional stress, you got a winner.

i have an RV1 by pop up industries on my 5th wheel, it is very stout and connects to the kingpin box in multiple areas to increase the surface area contact. you can check it out here


http://www.popuphitch.com/rv1.htm

it has 5" of offset as well, so turning is not an issue with my shortbed. I only have about 1000 miles towing this configuration but is very stout, many people that have seen it commented on the sturdiness of the unit as a whole. I have the B&W ball as well. Several folks have only seen other units such as the cody coupler which are not as strong and this coupler changed their minds about this as an option.

I was thinking about the RV unit with 0" offset. The trailer I'm buying already has the extended hitch for use on a shortbed.

After looking at the prices though, a fifth wheel hitch is about the same. Maybe I should just get the fifth wheel hitch like it was designed for.

I've used B&W's 5th wheel companion and it's a sweet hitch. I spent just about one minute thinking about what the structure at the front of the camper looked like in comparison with the structure of a gooseneck trailer and decided that 5th wheel trailers should be hitched on a 5th wheel. When we get home I leave the Companion hitch hooked on the kingpin and padlocked . . . unless they have a B&W receiver nobody's leaving with my trailer.

Well, I'm back on the fence again. Talked to the RV dealer yesterday, and he said they install gooseneck adapters all the time. Probably because around here most people have horses and a gooseneck horse trailer. He also said there are no warranty issues with this trailer manufacturer. Now I'm leaning back towards the RV1. I can get one deliverd from eBay for $440. The cheapest I've found the companion is $640.

ski1, have you noticed any "bucking" of the trailer while pulling it? That is about the only downside I've heard about converting to a gooseneck.

For a couple hundred dollars difference I would not take the chance with the hitch adapter. Play it safe and get the companion hitch. Just my opinion.

i have not experienced any, this would be tough to guess at with many different truck trailer combos. I tow about an inch high in the front, not sure if that makes a difference. I have not experienced any negative ride issues, but have only towed the trailer a thousand miles. I am in the minority, but checked with Skyline and they had no problem with the setup and they assured me their frames can handle it. For me, this setup works well. I purchased my RV1 from Ebay as well, 349 for the hitch and 44 shipping, dealer was in Atlanta, GA. If your dealer has an adapter like the cody coupler which installs easily, you might ask him if you can test it out. wont be apples to apples bit it may give you an idea.

Several forums have had lots of conversation about safety issues with 5er to goosneck conversions. I have posted on the internet at: http://www.gorowan.com/2004ram/pin_box/ ,,,,,
Are you safe pulling a trailer behind your 5er or placing others at risk?

I had the conversion done, to a goose on my 5er, and i changed it back to kingpin.

The stability of the unit suffered in crosswinds, and was not as user friendly on long hauls.

Just my experience. FWIW.

I have a reese 14.5 kingpin rail reciever and a companion goose plate.

Safety is not something to compromise.

You can use the same base for either hitch. You can get the hitch with exposed rails or under bed rails.

http://www.torklift.com/gooseneck_adapters.htm

If you do consider using an adapter for the 5er consult your insurance co to make sure they will cover you. I was told by the dealer who I bought my 5er from most insurance wont cover you with the adapters.

Progressive Ins company had no problem with mine..............and this is first hand experience. As far as dealers go, I am sure they only speak from experience :rolleyes:

The DOT requires Goosenecks hitches to have safety chains to frame rail mounted anchor points on the TV. 5th Wheel/Kingpin is Hitch-n-go!

There has to be a good reason for that (and it has nothing to do with Avocado farmer's constitutional rights).

Over a Million Miles towing heavy trailers of all sorts, give me a 5th wheel over a goose neck trailer on windy days on the Bay Bridge everytime.

The original cost of a sound engineering design is relatively nothing next to buying your way out of an engineering calamity.

But that's my opinion!

RF

there are a lot of variables, done right it is fine. I would put my setup up against any others for safety and reliability

Anybody know the regulations on safety chains(required or not) for a 5er to gooseneck conversion in Tx. RV dealer said "they don't know nothing about adding chains to a conversion" & said they convert them alot! Can somebody educate me??

Anybody know the regulations on safety chains(required or not) for a 5er to gooseneck conversion in Tx. RV dealer said "they don't know nothing about adding chains to a conversion" & said they convert them alot! Can somebody educate me??Your biggest mistake is asking the guy whose going to sell you something on commission what the rules are. Cause they are always to be what you want to hear.....$Ka-ching$! If he sells a lot of them, good for him.....$Ka-ching$, $Ka-ching$! Not "knowing" and not "saying" is two different things to the consumer, not to the salesman. There ain't no law against lying in Floriday, so says the FL superior court. Seems you can even lie to the poice when a guest molests and murders a 9-year old child, so how far do you think your suit will go if the fella tells you a bold face lie?

A more direct answer to your question is:
A GOOSENECK HITCH IS A BALL HITCH!
All states have weight restrictions on ball hitched trailers where safety chains are required. These can vary from one county to another, and even between localities or city limits, just like electric brakes. No state allow ball hitch towing of trailers above 3,000 lbs without safety chains, and 1,000lbs throughout Canada.

The DOT's NHTSA site (http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/)advises drivers that tow trailers to follow these simple rules:

States and municipalities may require special permits and licenses based on the size and weight of your trailer, especially if it is over eight feet wide. Some states require additional equipment for the tow vehicle, such as side- and rear-view mirrors. Inquire at your local motor vehicle administration to find out what requirements affect you.

If you plan to travel in another state, don’t forget to check its requirements also. For example, surge brakes may not be legal in some jurisdictions. In addition to licenses and permits, there may be weight, height, and width limits for using certain roads, bridges, and tunnels. Also, be aware of restrictions regarding the transport of propane gas and other volatile gases or fuels in tunnels. And don’t forget to contact your insurance company to make sure you have the proper coverage.

More on tow vehicles from the same site:

If you already have a tow vehicle, look up its tow rating—size, maximum loaded weight, and maximum tongue weight of a trailer that the tow vehicle is capable of towing. The vehicle owner’s manual contains these specifications. Most automotive manufacturers and dealerships have towing specification guides with tow ratings and detailed information if extra equipment is needed to tow a trailer. While your vehicle may have certain tow ratings, remember you must have a matching hitch system that can handle the same specifications. To ensure safety, you may have to install extra towing equipment.

Manufacturers’ Tow Vehicle Ratings

Manufacturers’ tow vehicle ratings address tongue weight, as well as the individual, combined, and fully loaded weights at which a tow vehicle can safely tow a trailer. They also can be used to guide the selection of brake and hitching systems, as well as tow vehicle tires. Together with the hitch system specifications, these weight considerations will help you purchase a safe tow vehicle. In general, manufacturers provide tow ratings for the maximum

Amount the tow vehicle may weigh when fully loaded, or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
Weight a vehicle can tow. This figure may vary depending on the vehicle’s equipment, such as a manual or automatic transmission and whether it is equipped with four-wheel drive.
Permissible combined weight of the tow vehicle, trailer, passengers, equipment, fuel, etc., that the vehicle can handle, or Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR).
Weight a single axle can carry, or Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).
Measuring the Weight of a Trailer

Some manufacturers provide a “dry” or empty weight for trailers; however, to select a proper tow vehicle and hitching system, you must know how much your trailer weighs fully loaded. For example, if you are towing an open trailer that carries a boat or motorcycle, the fully loaded weight includes the weight of the trailer with the boat or motorcycle and any additional items being towed, such as fuel tanks, motors, and safety equipment.

Develop a realistic estimate of the total weight of your trailer. The time you spend doing this and getting properly equipped will save you time and money in preventing unexpected repairs to your tow vehicle and unanticipated breakdowns while on the road. In addition to speaking with dealers and other individuals who sell and use trailers, the best way to know the actual weight of your trailer is to weigh it at a public scale.

Manufacturers consider the loaded weight of a trailer when specifying tongue weight—the amount of the trailer’s weight that presses down on the trailer hitch. Too little tongue weight can cause the trailer to sway. Too much tongue weight can cause many problems, including not enough weight on the front wheels of the tow vehicle. When this occurs, the tow vehicle will be less responsive to steering. A weight-distributing hitch can remedy this problem by transferring weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle.

Manufacturers also establish the gross axle weight and provide a rating that denotes the maximum weight a single axle can carry. Knowing these weights will help you when it is time to load your trailer. Remember that the gross axle weight rating listed on the tow vehicle’s certification label must not be exceeded.

About safety equipment for towing:

Tow vehicles and trailers must be compatible with hitching, braking, and wiring systems to ensure safety.

Hitching Systems

The trailer towing industry has developed a classification system that differentiates hitches according to the amount of weight they can tow. This system addresses tongue weight and total weight. Keep in mind that within each classification are numerous hitches made by a variety of manufacturers.

The three most common types of hitches are the weight-carrying hitch, the weight-distributing (or load equalizer) hitch, and the fifth-wheel hitch, or gooseneck. Weight-carrying hitches are designed to carry all of the trailer’s tongue weight. Weight-distributing hitches are used with a receiver hitch and special parts that distribute the tongue weight among all tow vehicle and trailer axles. Fifth-wheel hitches are designed for mounting the trailer connection point in the middle of the truck bed.

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/equipment/towing/images/fifthwheel.gif
fifth-wheel hitches

When purchasing a hitch, use the recommendations of the manufacturer of the tow vehicle and trailer based on the type and weight of the trailer. Make sure the hitch has provisions for the connection of safety chains, which are required by most states. When connected, safety chains should have some slack to permit sharp turns but should not drag on the road. In addition, they should cross under the trailer tongue to help prevent the tongue from dropping to the road in the event the trailer separates from the tow vehicle.

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/equipment/towing/images/safetychain.gif
safety chains



Here is a PDF file that has all of the above about towing from the NHTSC, and then some. Including a very good pre-trip checklist: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/equipment/towing/Towing.pdf

Now I know what's comming, so I'll nip it in the bud right here. NO! Fifth wheels DO NOT require safety chains, because the kingpin is capped and the jaws of the hitch clamp around the cap to prevent the pin from "hopping" out of the hitch. It is a much more secure pivoting connection than any ball type of hitch connections.

Hope this helps clear things up for you.

RF