I did some quick searching, but I didn't really find anything of use. I'm going to attempt to explain my problem as best as I can:

My truck is stalling. It is completely random, not temperature, speed, or anything changes it. I will be driving, or idling, and the engine will cut out, like i shut the key off. 90% of the time I can crank it and it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall a lot, like every 10 seconds, and other times it will stall once a day. 10% of the time when it stalls it takes 15-20 seconds to start again, and usually i need to turn the key off and let the LP send some fuel up (I think? maybe its just coincidence) Sometimes, if I am moving and have the engine revved, it will cut out and then kick back in before it dies completely, but this is usually not the case.

I guessed it being the OPS causing the LP to stop, so I unplugged the LP to simulate the same situation, but the engine continues to run (I did this for 5 minutes, since the stalling can happen right away after starting the engine, or an hour after driving) so I think I ruled out the OSP/LP as the problem.

I'm assuming the PMD is usually going bad when the engine cuts out in a hot situation, and usually will not restart as easily, but I could be wrong. I did relocate the PMD to a heat sink on the intake, and also replaced it about a year ago.
The IP was replaced 3 years ago, and I haven’t had any problems with it since.

I'm taking suggestions, and I will test any scenarios suggested. I don't want to start throwing parts at it, especially when the stalling is so spontaneous that I won’t know if it is fixed until weeks later to be sure...

Thanks for any help/suggestions

sounds like a similar problem to mine a few weeks ago. Repleaced the IP, no more stall. Then went and replaced the LP cause that was dead anyway.

To see if your OPS is functioning your going to want to open the fuel bleed valve. Trace the line that it exits out of and put a bucket underneath. Whith the engine running, open the bleed(don't be subtle, open it up a fair amount), wait about 30 seconds. If the engine sutters, then stalls, then your OPS is in fact dead. It could be the relay as well. does your truck run the lp during wait to start? or starting?

LP works during wait to start and starting. I show oil pressure correctly, but I know the switch is seperate. I am going to wire a light into the LP power and ground so I can see if it ever not running, that should test the OPS too right?

Ok, easiest way to test the LP is grab an electrical tester that measures DC voltage. unplug the LP and connect the leads to the prongs in the line coming to the pump. Have someone cycle the glow plugs, that'll run the LP for startup. If you have voltage (14 volts nominal), then your Relay is good. Have the person crank the truck. While its running, keep those leads on the prongs. When the trucks running, you should be getting voltage, roughly the same as before.

Yes it will test both. best way it to just open up the fuel bleed. It s t-valve locted conviently right next to the oil filler cap. Theres a black hose that goes from the T valve straight down into the engine. has no connection point. Fule will flow out of there once started. If it stalls, its your OPS, if not, thats good. But voltage shown while the truck is running to the LP is another way.

If it is not a fuel problem,it could be the pmd.here is a link. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267979

OK I just saw a P1217 Fuel Solenoid Response Time Too Long set but it was NOT current, so I am not positive it has anything to do with this. However, does P1217 point to the PMD or to a fuel solenoid? and if so, can I replace the solenoid without replacing the entire pump, or is that what usually goes?

I ask because I have 2 extra pumps sitting around, which were replaced for unknown reasons...

The code and the behaviour would seem to indicate failing PMD (or Fuel Solenoid Driver), since it is no longer pump-mounted.

Mounting it on the intake is worse than leaving it on the pump, by the way... too meny of them die up there. Get it out of the engine compartment.

Incidentally, if you DO have to replace the PMD, you will have spent more than the one with the 7-yr warranty. I know you didn't want to hear that, but ..

Not what I was looking to hear, but thank you. I guess I am going to be replacing that...

Do we know exactly what goes bad inside of these modules, and is it repairable?
I'm watching my closure time, so next time it stalls I can see what it is doing. I doubt I will see anything of any use, since its the module not the actual pump, but I'm hoping to. I dont like throwing parts unless Im absolutely sure.

On the latest generation standyne 34583,the symptoms I had were intermitent.Truck would start fine and run fine for a few days then quit out of the blue,then after alot of cranking start again.Sometimes I would take it for a drive,shut it off,then try starting after a while and it wouldn't start.

I people,
new in this forum buy my first diesel truck, about a year ago I do have same problem with my truck (3500 4x4 turbo diesel) thinking to replase PDM , stalling at any tlme it could be firts thing in the morning or after drivin it for some time,stall many times during short periods, but it start againg with no problem, and some time it takes 3 or 7 cranks to start back up again,
I note that existing PDM is been hold by only 2 scrwuv and one was lose, I im about to tigh it up with new ones, any body think, this mybe the stalling problem or sure I have to buy new DPM.
WIREMAN 121
hope you fix the problem and let us know wath or how you take'er of the problem

Hi, welcome to the site.

One of the feature of this site is the STICKY on top of this forum (grey color).

One of the item in the sticky is a Diagnostic Checklist.

Would you mind DOING that Diagnostic checklist to become our eyes and ears to help you fix your own car. Since we don't have that access. Another benefit is that you can learn more about the engine and your engine in particular.
PMD is usually the culprit especially if it is still in stock location but there are other things like LP/OPS, etc. We don't want to throw in parts blindly and this checklist will help you do it methodically.

When you finish, post it and the member here will give you additional diagnostic suggestion.

Have fun.