Ok, not sure if this is the proper forum for this stuff but I couldnt find another that fit. My parents are looking at selling, actually are going to sell, our 99 suburban and get a 2500HD. Hopefully it will be a D-max, still trying to convince my dad of it, but I think its pretty much a go. Basically we're looking for a 2004-2005 2500HD, Carbon Metallic, CCSB, 4x4, D-Max - auto, all options except leather.

So basically my question is what is the best way to go about buying one? My parents really dont like dealers, they havent bought a brand new vehicle in a good 10 years. Personally, if we are buying this truck I think we should go brand new. We would be using it to tow our 21' wakeboard boat and also haul around dirt bikes and eventually an enclosed trailer. How have you guys gone about getting good prices on new trucks? I am in the Bay Area, CA but go to school in San Luis Obispo. Should I be looking local, or going national? Is it possible to score a deal worth shipping the truck cross country? Any dealers known for dealing a lot?

Just looking for some starter tips, thanks

All options - no leather? The LT package which has the most options includes leather. No leather means the less equipped LS package. I used to not like leather either, but I do now. Besides they're heated.

not to mention, if you spill something :drinking: on leather, you can just wipe it off.

the best part about buying one new is you get the full length of the warranty. the resale value on these trucks is so high in most cases, IMO, it almost makes sence to go with a new one.

Dudes, He's not asking what options YOU like, he's asking for help finding the cheapest way to get what HE likes.

SO, I just bought the truck you want. You'll have to decide if you want new or used, but let me offer a few points. Depreciation: I bought a black CCSB 4WD with everything except leather and onstar for 29,750. 34,000 miles. New ones are what, 44k? The general consensus here is that the dmax doesn't get its best mileage until 10k anyhow. DOWNSIDE: the non-powertrain portion of the warranty expires at 36,000. However, for 2k, I can get another 5 years and 100k added. So, make it a 44k truck at a 32k price. Besides, he dealer rebates on DMAX suck these days (S. TX) because everyone wants them.

If you want used, try places like autotrader.com, and ebaymotors. Buy an airline ticket from Southwest for $99 and drive the truck back. They're fun to drive; no need to ship it. Hell, buy me the tickets and I'll drive it for you! (not) If you or a family member is in the Military, you can go through USAA and they'll find the truck you want AND deal with the hassle of negotiating with the dealer. All you do is sign... And if neither of those do it for you, start asking around at work and find out who's spouse works at the dealership. There's always one...

I got mine for $36,000 new. A buddy of mine just found an 05 GMC Sierra 2500hd 4x4 CCSB SLE in Georgia for $30,000 new. I don't know what dealer he found it at but he used the internet to search dealers nationwide and get price quotes.

Depending on demand and dealer inventory you could find a good deal through the internet.

NorCalZ71,

If you scroll farther down the main screen for this web site, you will find a topic section titled "New Vehicle Ordering Information". Read some of the threads for suggestions on getting a good price.

A couple of the posters have access to GM Supplier certificates that they are willing to share. This will get you the vehicle at the supplier price, which is a few hundred dollars above invoice. (They post in the New Vehicle Ordering section.)

There was a post in the New Vehicle section about 6 weeks ago from a sales rep willing to sell the DMax near dealer invoice, but I do not remember where he is located.

The most important thing is do your homework first. Know what models and options are available, and know the dealer invoice cost. Go to either Edmunds.Com or KBB.Com for this information. The final cost to a dealer is actually less than the dealer invoice due to the "Dealer Holdback" and any special incentives. The holdback is calculated at 3% of the MSRP (Window Sticker) before shipping. Worst case, I think you should be able to get a DMax at dealer invoice plus 200, before deducting for any GM incentives. Look for incentive programs on the Edmunds, KBB, and GM web sites. Also look at the offers advertised in the newspaper for current incentive programs.

Keep in mind that the dealer pays an advertising (marketing program fee) to GM that is a legit charge on the dealer invoice. The amount varies from quarter to quarter and region to region. This is not shown on the above web sites, but is printed on the dealer invoice. It can run over 1,000 per vehicle.

After doing your homework, then ............

If you go to the dealership, work with the fleet department rather than the floor salesman. Negotiate around the dealer invoice price, meaning, "I will pay x dollars above/below dealer invoice before incentives, taxes and license fees. In other words, you are negotiating the terms of the deal rather than the price of the particular vehicle. This makes it easy to compare the deal between dealerships. The final price of the vehicle becomes a simple calculation. Insist on a copy of the dealer invoice. It is common for a fleet manager to share this with the customer. If they refuse, they are most likely hiding something, so go to another dealer. Do not discuss trade-in until after the terms of the deal on the new truck are final.

Another option is to buy off the internet. Most dealers have an internet manager. Let them respond with a bid based on dealer invoice. There are also buying services on the net that will sometimes get a good price. Also, Costco and Sams Club may get a fair price without any hassle.

If you play the game properly, you may be able to get a new DMax for less than a used one. Some guy just offered my brother more for his 2003 than I paid for my 2004 after all the rebates a year ago. (My brother told him no.)

Good luck and let us know how it worked out.

Don't know where you are located but if anywhere near Fl contact Bruce Glueck Cheverolet and Marine in Jasper. Sells at invoice. Check out his web site or give him a call. You'll have to order and have patience to wait 6 or 8 weeks but at least you can get exactly what you want. No more or no less.

What part of the bay area? Im in Fremont. I bought my truck at Groth Brothers in Livermore....500 over invoice, thats it no bs..pm me if you want more info. heres a shot of it at pismo....

http://www.streetracr67.com/chevy/picture_060.jpg

right on guys, thanks very much for the tips. Looks like ill be doing a lot of scanning the internet and making some calls the next couple weeks. I am definitely not opposed to hopping on a plane and driving the truck back, thats how i got my 94 z71.

Norcal_2500HD, im in Benicia at home but go to school at Cal Poly San Luis. How were Groth Brothers to deal w/? Looks like you have the exact truck we are looking for.

And as far as the leather, if it comes w/ it for the right price then thats cool, just wouldnt want to be paying a ton more for the option we dont want. Personally I would take it either way, the NBS leather is WAY better than the OBS junk was in our 97 suburban. My mom is just really picky about leather in really hot weather, no rhyme intended.

Norcalz71

Definetly search the internet for deals cause they are out there. My parents saved close to 4 grand on my truck when they went to buy it. They could have gotten a better deal on a chevy HD diesel but I prefer the GMC so they lost a little there. By the way I also go to Cal Poly SLO. I am president of the Cal Pacific Wakeboard Club, ever thought about bringing your boat to SLO, there's great boarding up at Lake Nacimeinto.

so far groth brothers has been great on the issues that i have had....the service manager is also on my cousins race team so that helps a little too.......he knows what i have done to the truck and to him its no big deal

Norcalz71, If you want to go the route of the G.M. Supplier Discount Price way, let me know. Alot of these guys have went that way & have found them to be a EXTREAMELY Fast& Easy Hazzle - Free way to buy a vehicle. The G.M S. P. is listed on the invoice & that is the price you pay & then Subtract the other discounts from that price. (Rebates & other discounts.) The G.M.S.P. is good for a ordered truck or one you find at a dealership. It takes about 5 mins. to get one & they are good till Aug. howard = howard_m18 at yahoo.com

Howard, how do I go about using this GM Supplier DIscount deal? Perhaps it could be better to order the truck exactly how we want it, depending on price and such. Ballpark, what would a loaded CCSB 4x4 d-max/allison be via this process? 35k? 38?

Norcalz71,
Use the Internet to get pricing. I ordered mine from a dealer close to me that I contacted over the Internet, and ended up getting it for $17.00 over supplier price. Having never purchase a new vehicle this way before, allot of the dealers became frustrated with me because I never would tell them the price I could get it for (should get it for, use your poker face). Some of the prices the members of this site said they paid to me seemed impossible to get from the local dealer. Well... I'm a believer now! I think I did pretty well on the price for not having an inside connection. If you are going new, go to www.edmunds.com and "build" it how you want it. that will give you a good starting point. It will give you the MSRP price, Invoice price, and "What people are paying in your area" price. I beat the "people are paying" price by almost $1000.00. Good Luck!

can,t beet dave smith.com in Idaho

a loaded ccsb 4x4 duramax with every available option (sunroof, dvd, everything!) lists for around 49,500. invoice price is around 10.5% lower than msrp. take another 600-800 for supplier discount. or about 2200 for gms (gm employee). last year, gm differentiated between gms and supplier. i was the same discount. now gms is a good bit lower than supplier discount.

there should be 0 hassle with gms or supplier discount, as the dealer gets the difference between invoice and discount refunded through gm

guys.from california

what has to be done when bringing a d/a back from out of state? any smog? I know all the dmv garbage with tax and all, but waht about emmisions??? does it have to say ca vehicle emissions on it?:confused: :confused: :confused:

Go to cars.com Build your truck. It will give you the dealer invoice, add between $500-$1000 for dealer profit, (for a Durmax only)now you know the price you should pay (before any rebates). Then build the same truck GMC or Chevy site. At the end the site can locate this vehicle. Type in your zip code and it will show you the actual sticker of simular trucks at local dealers. Call them and work your deal. Remember D/A will comand more dealer profit than a 6.0, Make sure you check regional insentives on the GM site. Those insentives are for you not the dealer. Good luck.

Bought mine with a supplier discount. Definitely the easiest way to go (least effort). You can find the supplier price through www.gmsupplierdiscount.com (http://www.gmsupplierdiscount.com). It goes through gmbuypower. Then find the truck you want, take the cert, and go get it. No haggle.

In any case, you can find the supplier price and compare it to the other quotes you get.

You could try getting a quote from Dave Smith motors in Idaho, they sell at just above invoice..maybe five to eight hundred. I would get a qoute from them and have them fax it to you then take that to your local dealership and try to swindle a deal that way, let them know that Dave Smith motors will often pay for your flight to Idaho and pick you up at the airport and drive you to the dealership, and that you have no problem doing that. If not, go to the fleet manager and order the one you like. I paid $500 over invoice and waited 2 long months for mine...got what I wanted!