ok after having a jerry rigged wvo system, i have been re plumbing and rewiring the whole thing. I then discovered that oil builds chicken skin inside our stock steel tanks. Then i noticed the 105g tank in the bed was full of crud that kept pluggin my filters up.

Now that i got my fuel pressure gauges i hope this is the last thing. My parts store carter pump is only putting out 3-4 psi when pushing oil.

I plan to snag the lift pump from my 93 parts truck. Its supposed to be rated 12-14 psi so i hope on veggie i can still get the 7-8 psi required. I may have a malfunctioning gauge because right now i show 3 psi before the filter and 4.5 after the filter, i dont think thats possible, might have to send one in but i dont know which one is right??

I hope this is the last thing now....i just added a heat exchanger as well. I hope to have solved my oil spray leak from the old sender that wasnt being used. And then i learned that i probrably need a cdr or equivilant to keep oil leaks from showing up.

Hope this helps anyone else out there.

Swap gauges. Are both lines the same diameter? If not, that could explain the difference and it is possible.

How are you cleaning your oil? I installed a big, really big screen filter before my pump. It is a filter for a pesticide sprayer I bought at Tractor Supply. The screen inside it is about 1" diameter by 3" long, it would take a lot to fill it. My oil is cleaned through upflow settling then a centrifuge so it is really clean and I still get quite a bit of crud in the screen.
Good luck
Rusty

You are probably on the right track by trying a different fuel pump. I've found electric plunger type pumps work better with thick 100% WVO than Carter or Holley rotary vane type pumps.
I think the 3-4 PSI is acceptable. Just not that much margin for error when the filter starts getting restricted.
When mine drops that low i keep driving. I know I have another 500 miles before it will be filter change out time. When it hits 2 PSI, I'll switch tanks or change the filter.
I run an unheated tank with a heat exchanger a few feet from the tank. I've tried putting the fuel pump before the heat exchanger and then moved it after to see if i could get more PSI. I got 1 lb more pressure because the pump had an easier time pumping the thinner hot WVO after the heat exchanger. But it was a PITA to prime if i ran the tank dry. Moved it back by the tank. I found a Walbro 10PSI pump works the best of what I've tried so far.
I've never been able get high pressures. I can maintain 6 PSI while driving under full load with a clean filter.
I think we could get higher PSI's if we heated our tanks also, but I'm not up for that. We could probably get higher PSI's if we cut the WVO slightly with gasoline or methanol too.
I've tried lots of pumps but not the GM electric lift pump. A 12-14 PSI pump looks quite promising.
Please report back how that works out.


Hey Rusty, they'll let us Land Cruiser guys hang out anywhere :)

I finally ended up going with a Raptor pump. The manufacturer says it works with WVO. It has an internal adjustable pressure regulator. It is really nice but expensive. It does have a 5 or 6 year warranty, can't remember, I figure I will probably end up spending at least that much on cheap pumps in the next few years and the fact that I don't have to worry about it going out is reassuring.
Rusty

how much was that pump??? a replacement 93 lift pump is $120 so if that doesnt work ill probrably go the wvo rated pump route.

How are you cleaning your oil? I installed a big, really big screen filter before my pump. It is a filter for a pesticide sprayer I bought at Tractor Supply. The screen inside it is about 1" diameter by 3" long, it would take a lot to fill it. My oil is cleaned through upflow settling then a centrifuge so it is really clean and I still get quite a bit of crud in the screen.
Good luck
Rusty

gravity upflow twice then through a 5 and 2 micron into the final barrel.

My oil isnt the problem it was the tank that the PO left open with no caps in the bed.....then that crap ended up in the side tank, then clogged my filter and probrably caused the two lift pump failures.

ok put the 93 pump on now....have twice the pressure or more at 8-9 psi and thats with 70* oil so it should rise with hot oil.

now im leaking oil out of both fuel pressure gauges and/or fittings....

Do you have to use teflon tape on brass fittings? I thought u didnt need it.......guess ill be taking that all back apart and trying tape.

These Mr Gasket gauges i got seem like junk. If you touch or put pressure on the gauge housing it will read + or - a psi or so.....is that normal? They also are not liquid filled. I think i might be sending those back.....

The Raptor pump was expensive, like around $250? Can't remember exactly, but the peace of mind is nice like I said.
I am using the Mr Gasket gauges and they are cheap, would be nice to have a liquid filled gauge but never can remember to order one.
Sounds like you are doing a good job cleaning the oil so I would try the big screen filter somewhere before the pump.
I also had trouble with the brass fittings, I ended up using either RTV silicone or JB Weld, teflon tape seemed to leak as well.
Good luck, it will all come together at some point. It has been 5 months on mine and I think I finally have it! Now I need to figure out how long the payback will be.
Rusty

ouch!!! i did find a veggie pump on frybrid or somewhere for $120 so if the 93 doesnt keep up under the heat ill probrablly try that.....comes with warranty.

Hey Im Going To Use A Lift Diesel Pump From A 02 3500 6.6 Aux Tank $39 Sound Like Plunger Type- I Learn By Fixing This Truck

Put a layer of sealant (the black stuff you can get in the parts stores) on the threads of the fitting, wind some teflon tape around that (in the right direction!), put another layer of sealant on the tape and tighten good when you screw the fitting in. Doing it that way, I haven't had any of them leaking yet.

I also had cheap pumps for my veg. I just put on a Walbro FRB-5. I don't know the pressure I'm getting (It is rated for about 10 PSI), but no more fishbiting at 75 MPH WOT.

-95 Sub 2500 2wd
Heathmaster, K&N, 4" exhaust, bypass filtration, home made 2 tank, and other stuff.

well i can get 11-12 psi once the oil is hot.

now im having problems again.....under 1/4 it must be sucking in some air.....so i filled again and it still runs like crap on oil.....runs great on diesel......

not sure it ran so good that entire tank till i got under 1/4

Id just like to comment on these old threads i started.

I fixed all my issues with the wvo fuel problem.

My hot fox pickup wasnt all the way adjusted to the bottom of the tank, below a 1/4 tank it kept sucking air in the line. Goes to show you sometimes you have to pull everything apart that someone else did so you know whats going on.

Im still using a boiler type air relief vavle right before my heated filter. Works great on removing any air from the fuel lines.

Oh, one more thing.

You guys have been great!!!!

I feel like ive learned the whole truck in 9 months of my first question.

Really had no choice since nothing on my truck was factory anymore. Almost everything was rewired, it was a gas truck now with a 6.5, had worn out 6.2 injectors in it, wvo was completely messed up, no fuel gauge readings, the cone filter on the turbo was sucking in hot air from the radiator, oil leaks all over due to missing cdr, transmission didn not lockup the convertor, wipers didnt work, one headlight was dim, i pulled a mile of wiring out of this thing along with a playstation, 15" overhead tv, subs and 2 amps, 12 offroad lights, a 4'x5'x3' tool box out of the box behind the 105g tank and toolbox, beat off the mud flaps that had car mats as the flap, took out the lowering shackels in the rear and replaced the broken centering pins and shims.....hmm thats all i can think of right now...

anyone else feel like they have rebuilt their truck??

Things still needing to be done. Front driveshaft is shot, axle seal up front on left is leaking, trailer brake controller not working, defrost ducts not working, wiper wash not working, pulls to the left on braking.

Wow, i knew i was buying a project, but man, this one really got me.

I feel I have rebuilt my truck, mostly cause I have. Just about everything on it has been gone through or replaced by me.
I have rebuilt 2 blazers, a jeep and now the apache.
I have not yet tried to tackle alternative fuels as the WVO is about as hard to get as finding crude oil.

bumping older post!

Jodean
said = Im still using a boiler type air relief vavle right before my heated filter

Does anyone have a part number, as I can not locate anything like this, but I could be looking it up wrong...I have tried Menders? air purge valve, bleed valve, etc...

thanks

yes everyone would like to find one of these for bleeding air prior to the ip.

I believe his is from an hydronic/infloor heating system. Try a plumbing supply or a furnace supply shop. I don't know what Menders is but if it's like home depot it's unlikely to carry anything like that.