Just wondering what some of you guys are spending on your engine builds all this talk of pistons is making me think i should start saving. A total price and a list of some of the major parts included in the build would be great if you don't mind sharing. Turbos and dual cp3's don't count just looking for engine.

6k and up. Vague answer, but that question needs to be broken down to what you expect out of it when your done, budget, time constraints, function etc.

bring it to upstate NY ill build it for you. :D

I've got around 25k into my build now. It's a 7.1 though and that includes the turbo and dual fuellers, injectors,.....it's not even in my truck yet though:( One more week and it will be though :D

i was thinking a motor that would be for a 2.6 turbo class rods pistons keyways the other necessary things for a 2.6 pulling truck

Working on a build right now for a 2.6 truck, Bought spare block with some performance parts in it on e-bay, will have over 10 k in it w/out turbo. Should last a while I hope:). Using Crower rods.

How much money you got to spend and ill tell you what you can get and what you should get first.:D

Wooter are you going to build it yourself?

Wooter

The first thing you should do is figure out what turbocharger your going to use. The reason is this will limit the total airflow through the motor and you should build around that. I see to many people waiting till the end on the turbo and then they are unhappy with the results. Compression ratio, camshaft, heads and turbo should be match to get the maximum performance from your combination.

Just wondering what some of you guys are spending on your engine builds all this talk of pistons is making me think i should start saving. A total price and a list of some of the major parts included in the build would be great if you don't mind sharing. Turbos and dual cp3's don't count just looking for engine.

Just to start youll need atleast:
Spare Block and crank...$1500?
ARP Head Studs..$650
ARP Main Studs...$250
LB7/LLY Pistons w/rings (delipped/reconfigured)...$1800
Head Gaskets/ misc gaskets and torque to yield bolts...$500
Rods...atleast $2,200
Rod/Main Bearings...$140

Total=$7240.00

plus Hone/balance block...$500-1000?

Our club has finally came around and are thinking they want a smaller class it will most likely be a 2.6 class single cp3. I was probably going to do what i can do to compete in that class with out opening up the motor, but i want to have the money set aside to do a motor if something happens. I will most likely take the truck to some one if the motor goes south.

Just to start youll need atleast:
Spare Block and crank...$1500?
ARP Head Studs..$650
ARP Main Studs...$250
LB7/LLY Pistons w/rings (delipped/reconfigured)...$1800
Head Gaskets/ misc gaskets and torque to yield bolts...$500
Rods...atleast $2,200
Rod/Main Bearings...$140

Total=$7240.00

plus Hone/balance block...$500-1000?

plus labor.
plus oil/filter, coolant,fuel filter.
The "incidentals" bit me in the butt.

I started out with a $7500 quote.....turned into a $12k bill, plus $17k in incidentals, towing, odds and ends, and repair bill after she shit on me again...........that's not counting 17 months of payments and MY TIME.
Not to scare you, sorry. But the one thing I regret is not taking it to the proper person in the first place....(thanks man!!) Make sure you do it right the first time. I think the R&R is the killer here..lots of work involved, believe me I know , i installed mine(with an already built shortblock, and it took me 3 weeks)Don't skimp on anything. So yeah...$29k ....ouch, embarrassing to be honest.

on edit.....I just added up how much I've spent, engine build AND payments since she broke the first time and my stomach hurts....I say sell it and RRRRUUUUUUUUUUUNNNNNNNNNNN!!!! LOL, SORRY.

plus labor.
plus oil/filter, coolant,fuel filter.
The "incidentals" bit me in the butt.

I started out with a $7500 quote.....turned into a $12k bill, plus $17k in incidentals, towing, odds and ends, and repair bill after she shit on me again...........that's not counting 17 months of payments and MY TIME.
Not to scare you, sorry. But the one thing I regret is not taking it to the proper person in the first place....(thanks man!!) Make sure you do it right the first time. I think the R&R is the killer here..lots of work involved, believe me I know , i installed mine(with an already built shortblock, and it took me 3 weeks)Don't skimp on anything. So yeah...$29k ....ouch, embarrassing to be honest.

on edit.....I just added up how much I've spent, engine build AND payments since she broke the first time and my stomach hurts....I say sell it and RRRRUUUUUUUUUUUNNNNNNNNNNN!!!! LOL, SORRY.

hows your engine coming along? Hope you have had some better luck recently.

I am not speaking from personal experience...but the most important element to doing a $$Dmax build, from what i have heard and seen, is planning ahead, assume the worst and preparing for it. There is nothing casual about having at min $7,000.00 tied up in a ticking time bomb. If you can't swallow the idea of literally throwing at least that much into an actual fire then you may want to reconsider making such a commitment. Don't rush anything regardless, assume twice the time estimated by the machine shop and twice the $$ for your budget...and like you said, dont skimp on anything!

the plan is build a short-block on the side so if it blows cause something was assembled wrong then I can put my current block back in. At least in an ideal world:rolleyes:

I was told 7-8k by someone as an estimate. and that's just getting it to run again-no frills!

hows your engine coming along? Hope you have had some better luck recently.

I am not speaking from personal experience...but the most important element to doing a $$Dmax build, from what i have heard and seen, is planning ahead, assume the worst and preparing for it. There is nothing casual about having at min $7,000.00 tied up in a ticking time bomb. If you can't swallow the idea of literally throwing at least that much into an actual fire then you may want to reconsider making such a commitment. Don't rush anything regardless, assume twice the time estimated by the machine shop and twice the $$ for your budget...and like you said, dont skimp on anything!

the plan is build a short-block on the side so if it blows cause something was assembled wrong then I can put my current block back in. At least in an ideal world:rolleyes:
Thanks, yeah Tony fixed me up. Have had her a few days, 800 miles or so. all seems well. Just need a decent tune now, stock sucks.

Thanks, yeah Tony fixed me up. Have had her a few days, 800 miles or so. all seems well. Just need a decent tune now, stock sucks.

AWESOME! congrats man!:)

I was told 7-8k by someone as an estimate. and that's just getting it to run again-no frills!

7-8k is probably close, but it makes sense to do a whole bunch of the smaller things while you have it apart. I think to do a basic build properly a person should budget 12-15k. It can probably be done less. I have yet to talk to anyone who did it for under 10k, unless they did it all themselves.

oh and i forgot about keying the cam and crank...thats another 300.00 plus shipping

Crower Rods & Socal LB7 cut and coated piston rings pins and shipped $4918
All the seals,o rings, head gaskets,the new fly wheel bolts,new cam bolt, new main bolts and side cap bolts the gm sealent, 550.00
Clevite 77 mains are 73.00
Clevite 77 rods are 116.80
If you crank need to be polished that is 138.00
Oil gallary plugs are .25 ea
key the cam and crank any were from 150 to 240
Motor balancing can go anywere from 160 to 550
head studs 550.00
main studs if you go the way 240.00
also you will need it line bored thats 240.00

There is alot of little stuff that is needed that you would never think about needing pricing above is off the top of my head I can go thru my paper work and tell you more to the tee prices, Also you will have right around 60 hrs of labor in taking the motor out tearing it down then rebuilding it and then reinstalling it and depending on who you have do that rates are anywere from 80hr to 95 hr.

I had $9100.00 in mine and did all the labor myself except for the machine work. build includes new socal cut and coated lb7 pistons, cam, valve springs, cups, retainers, valve seals, and pushrods. arp main and head studs, duramaxtuner rods. and all the other BS like gaskets, orings, coolant, oil, etc.

I had $9100.00 in mine and did all the labor myself except for the machine work. build includes new socal cut and coated lb7 pistons, cam, valve springs, cups, retainers, valve seals, and pushrods. arp main and head studs, duramaxtuner rods. and all the other BS like gaskets, orings, coolant, oil, etc.

my shopping list was the exactly the same minus the cam and valve seals. Fortunately I bought a block already machined with head/ main studs and piston/rings which saved me a ton.
what cam did you get and do you like it? Was it worth the extra $$$

lots of good information guys thanks alot.

Easy 15G into mine for parts and machining

my shopping list was the exactly the same minus the cam and valve seals. Fortunately I bought a block already machined with head/ main studs and piston/rings which saved me a ton.
what cam did you get and do you like it? Was it worth the extra $$$

i got a custom street cam. i can't really say if it was worth the extra money or not yet because i only have 400 miles on the new motor. i wasn't originally going to get a new cam, but the machine shop wasn't able to find the center point for the keyway since the guide pin was nearly sheared off.

Looks like I need to start saving.

Not to mention if your pulling 2.6" and your only allowed 1 CP3, your most likely going to need to upgrade that to keep up with a P-pump

I heard its around $9k

its more than you plan for. its all the little things that bite you in the butt. after rereading all the threads, i would spend the extra money and get some forged pistons if you have it opened up, doesnt appear to be much more. i know theres been plenty of people that have had great luck with the cut and de-lipped stockers, but there have been what seems like great results with the forged pistons with several miles on them

delipped/cut stockers seem to be better suited for daily drivers, forged for weekend warriors so to speak.

its more than you plan for. its all the little things that bite you in the butt. after rereading all the threads, i would spend the extra money and get some forged pistons if you have it opened up, doesnt appear to be much more. i know theres been plenty of people that have had great luck with the cut and de-lipped stockers, but there have been what seems like great results with the forged pistons with several miles on them

After having the ross pistons for 30k plus miles in a year and a half I think I am going with the lb7 cut coated and delipped pistons. I won't know for sure until I take mine apart this weekend.

I am at $11000 and the motor is not in the truck yet.

After having the ross pistons for 30k plus miles in a year and a half I think I am going with the lb7 cut coated and delipped pistons. I won't know for sure until I take mine apart this weekend.

i am glad that you posted your info, but i was refering to the mahle pistons

After having the ross pistons for 30k plus miles in a year and a half I think I am going with the lb7 cut coated and delipped pistons. I won't know for sure until I take mine apart this weekend.

Was there a failure?

As a Vendor I don't think I'm allowed to post pricing. Give me a call.

Guy

8-10k would be a good ball park

Call Curtis @ DPR
He knows these D maxes better than anyone I've talked to. I know he built the fastest D max on the salt flats too!
http://dieselperformanceresearch.com/index.asp?id=0

Call Curtis @ DPR
He knows these D maxes better than anyone I've talked to. I know he built the fastest D max on the salt flats too!
http://dieselperformanceresearch.com/index.asp?id=0
DIFINITLY THE GUY TO TALK TO

Call Curtis @ DPR
He knows these D maxes better than anyone I've talked to. I know he built the fastest D max on the salt flats too!
http://dieselperformanceresearch.com/index.asp?id=0

:agreed:
X2 Curtis has helped out a lot so far.Very knowledgeable person.

X3 I have talked to Curtis and he is a big help and knows his stuff. Definatly has the knowledge. I saw somw pretty crazy setups in his shop.

X3 I have talked to Curtis and he is a big help and knows his stuff. Definatly has the knowledge. I saw somw pretty crazy setups in his shop.


Yea his latest project(funnycar) is a jaw dropper for sure!!

Call Curtis @ DPR
He knows these D maxes better than anyone I've talked to. I know he built the fastest D max on the salt flats too!
http://dieselperformanceresearch.com/index.asp?id=0
Yep. He's the one to talk to.

I have about 15K in just the engine :duh: Then about 7K in turbos then duel fuelers,headers and up pipes and the list goes on. About 28K total so far:eek:

I have about 15K in just the engine :duh: Then about 7K in turbos then duel fuelers,headers and up pipes and the list goes on. About 28K total so far:eek:


Your building a stroker right?

Yep. He's the one to talk to.

Guy Tripp of So Cal Diesel is also one you should consult

Your building a stroker right?
This one is still a 6.6L but the 2nd one will be a 7.1L