Well Napa wants $100-150 a rotor and about $80 each pad set. So about $600-700 in parts that I can't afford right now so I went to advanced auto and got there gold parts for $250 that all for everything front+rear rotors and pads.

So what am I going to get like 15,000 out of this junk ? what do you guys think?

I don't know about how the chevy pickups wear on brakes, but I had a 99 psd 4x4 before the one in my sig and would run the auto zone brakes and get 60,000 miles out of them. Bought the truck with 16,500 miles on it and put 3 sets of pads on and sold it with 196,000 miles. I pulled gooseneck's with significant loads of hay, we also harvested Christmas tree's, and other heavy tow items related to a farm.
When my truck needs new brakes I will get them from Auto Zone. The best part is if you plan to keep the truck a while get the lifetime pads and they will replace them for free!

Sorry didn't read the last post fully: Don't Autozone brakes come with a lifetime warranty? At least the 1/2 tons.

I bought drilled and slotted rotor with a galvanic plate finish for all 4 corners and pads for front and rear for 320. Google cheap brakes and wade thru. Key words "performance Plus Brakes".

The brakes are only 6 months on the truck but seem to be just fine.

jb

Well Napa wants $100-150 a rotor and about $80 each pad set. So about $600-700 in parts that I can't afford right now so I went to advanced auto and got there gold parts for $250 that all for everything front+rear rotors and pads.

So what am I going to get like 15,000 out of this junk ? what do you guys think?

I did the same thing on my wife's Suburban. Here's the problem... The POS rotors warped so bad the thing is almost undriveable because of the steering shake under braking. And there's plenty of life left in the pads. I will never cheap out on the rotors ever again..

Chromer how long before they were warped?
Junk that's what I thought I have not put them on yet but I think I have no option. I am going on a trip this weekend and could not wait for a mail order so it's $600-700 or $250 and they are limited lifetime what ever that mean's. He said if they warp seperate or anything they are corvered. So I guess I will put them on if they go bad I can get drilled rotors and pads and still be cheaper than NAPA.

Sorry didn't read the last post fully: Don't Autozone brakes come with a lifetime warranty? At least the 1/2 tons.

They usually offer three levels of pads, basic, premium and gold, the later two are lifetime.

Well Napa wants $100-150 a rotor and about $80 each pad set. So about $600-700 in parts that I can't afford right now so I went to advanced auto and got there gold parts for $250 that all for everything front+rear rotors and pads.

So what am I going to get like 15,000 out of this junk ? what do you guys think?

Used to work at Advance...don't buy anything under their "Gold" series. I have them on my car, wife's car, mom's car, dad's truck, sister's car, etc.

They have treated me well. The rotors for a truck I'd have gone Bendix or whatever their "upper" line is, but again I've had good luck with their regular line.

Chromer how long before they were warped?
Junk that's what I thought I have not put them on yet but I think I have no option. I am going on a trip this weekend and could not wait for a mail order so it's $600-700 or $250 and they are limited lifetime what ever that mean's. He said if they warp seperate or anything they are corvered. So I guess I will put them on if they go bad I can get drilled rotors and pads and still be cheaper than NAPA.

They were perfect for about 5K, and then they got worse and worse. I thought it was loose inner tie rods, which I replaced, and even though the tie rods were loose, it didnt help. Now the thing is so damn bad at about 30K on them, I won't even drive it. Worst thing about it is the pads are only about 1/2 worn. It's just POS rotors

So what am I going to get like 15,000 out of this junk ? what do you guys think?

I'd like to know what you're doing to get so poor mileage out of your brakes.

My '02 saw 180k miles on the ORIGINAL brake pads and rotors. I'm not the only one, either, lots of guys here are getting high mileage on their brakes. There was a discussion on that when we were comparing these trucks to Dodges.

--Rob

ryeguy----Rob

It's called NYS salty roads they will eat a hole in any metal !!! But like I said "So what am I going to get like 15,000 out of this junk ?" Meaning I have never used cheap parts and don't know how long they will last. Now to your 180,000 miles I could be wrong but you may have set a world record of GM brakes I have never seen them last near that many miles. You must be salt free roads and have a exhaust brake and drive in tow haul mode all the time to get that or have some $4000.00 brembo big brake set up that I would never have enough money to buy.

As to these cheap brakes I checked before installing them and they say they have 2year war. on warp and limited life time on defects so for $250 not sure how you can go wrong.

Did the brakes on my 02 at 260,000 mile on the oem's,put auto zone pads and rotors on all 4,truck has 323,000 and the brakes are good,375.00 for all pads and rotors,thay are as good as oem if not better :) in michigan (lots of salt) My old 03 had 149,000 mile and had 40 to 50%

It's called NYS salty roads they will eat a hole in any metal !!! [...] You must be salt free roads and have a exhaust brake and drive in tow haul mode all the time to get that or have some $4000.00 brembo big brake set up that I would never have enough money to buy.


Actually....
I'm in western Canada and we salt the roads all winter long too.
I did have an exhaust brake, but also did a fair share of stop-and-go city driving, and towing.

--Rob

Are you sure the stock rotors are shot?

I just replaced the pads, front/rear, but the rotors were fine after 110,000 miles.

Many people are getting over 100,000 miles out of the stock pads, with the rotors still being good and not needing to be turned.

I tow a 170000pd 5er during the riding season about 10,000miles per year, lift, 35's for the last 5yrs and the pads lasted through that.

For whatever reason the stock stuff seems to be the best. I wouldn't put anything else on there.

They were perfect for about 5K, and then they got worse and worse. I thought it was loose inner tie rods, which I replaced, and even though the tie rods were loose, it didnt help. Now the thing is so damn bad at about 30K on them, I won't even drive it. Worst thing about it is the pads are only about 1/2 worn. It's just POS rotors
Before you blame the rotors, did you ensure that all Four corners of the brake system were in working order? Yeah the rotors are warped now, but I'd bet someone else's money that you never thought to check the rear brakes at all for binding of the hardware and/ or pads. Everyone reading this thread should DEFINITELY read (and do) what post #7 here in this thread advises http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake


IMHO, the difference in quality between the rotors among brands and price levels are moot. Buy any rotor you want, as I get nearly identical service life and performance out of all of them (it's nice to have 7 auto parts store within 15 minutes of my shop). Pads, on the otherhand, will vary in service life somewhat, but will definitley generate different amounts of brake dust (or none at all), and some are more prone to squeaking. But none will compromise your safety.

Before you blame the rotors, did you ensure that all Four corners of the brake system were in working order? Yeah the rotors are warped now, but I'd bet someone else's money that you never thought to check the rear brakes at all for binding of the hardware and/ or pads. Everyone reading this thread should DEFINITELY read (and do) what post #7 here in this thread advises http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=another+soft+brake


IMHO, the difference in quality between the rotors among brands and price levels are moot. Buy any rotor you want, as I get nearly identical service life and performance out of all of them (it's nice to have 7 auto parts store within 15 minutes of my shop). Pads, on the otherhand, will vary in service life somewhat, but will definitley generate different amounts of brake dust (or none at all), and some are more prone to squeaking. But none will compromise your safety.

Yes, I did take apart, clean, wire brush and lube ALL critical brake system sliding points front and rear, as well as ensuring pad fit not too tight. I also torqued the lug nuts and cleaned the hub & rotor mating surfaces...

This weren't my first rodeo...

Junk rotors, plain & simple.

I disagree with highlighted post above. If you buy cheap taiwan rotors made out of junk steel (as I did...) the material does not have the thermal stability of a good quality rotor, and you WILL get warpage. You spend 50 bucks on something others are charging 100 for, you can't expect the same service. I will never buy an offshore rotor again...

Live & learn

BTW, you have had some great tech posts in the past. While I don't agree with this one, thanks for all your positive input to this board. I read your posts carefully..

I never knew you could get over a 200,000 on brakes you would not stand a chance around here that is all I have to say on that.

Junk steel seem's to be all we have these days. Where do they get the good steel from ? Out of the back yard?

I have seen that high lighted above post also read the whole thing checked all my parts they are good. Most people do search before they post no need to clutter up this site with the same post's. I did not see any posts on miles people get with cheapest rotors/pads.