I would ask this on the Exterior forum but those guys all seem to be interested in putting shiny bits on their Duramaxes.

Today I discovered serious rust across the tops of the rear wheel wells. They are rotted all the way through, nice quarter sized perforations in a line from front to back. I shone a light up there and, to my surprise, I could see the back side of the new speaker I installed in the rear :eek:. Obviously it needs attention but I have never done rust repair and don't have the faintest clue of how to fix it. But here's what I'm thinking.

I have some relatively heavy galvanized sheet panels that I was thinking about using to patch over the holes.
Plan would be to clean up the wheel well and expose all the rust. Paint it over with POR-15 to stabilize the damage. Run overlapping panels over the rust and pop rivet them in place. Use a heavy duty sealant around the seams. Cover the whole shebang with undercoating.

Does that sound like it could be a decent fix? Do the rear wheel wells provide any structural support?

I would ask this on the Exterior forum but those guys all seem to be interested in putting shiny bits on their Duramaxes.

Today I discovered serious rust across the tops of the rear wheel wells. They are rotted all the way through, nice quarter sized perforations in a line from front to back. I shone a light up there and, to my surprise, I could see the back side of the new speaker I installed in the rear :eek:. Obviously it needs attention but I have never done rust repair and don't have the faintest clue of how to fix it. But here's what I'm thinking.

I have some relatively heavy galvanized sheet panels that I was thinking about using to patch over the holes.
Plan would be to clean up the wheel well and expose all the rust. Paint it over with POR-15 to stabilize the damage. Run overlapping panels over the rust and pop rivet them in place. Use a heavy duty sealant around the seams. Cover the whole shebang with undercoating.

Does that sound like it could be a decent fix? Do the rear wheel wells provide any structural support?
Good plan, except for the pop rivets and the galvanized. I don't know that you can get anything to stick to galvanized for very long a time and as far as the pop rivets go, vibration and body flex will work them loose in too short a time for the amount of care it seems you are wanting to take in rectifying the prob. I would substitute the galvanized with 14-16 gauge untreated sheet metal and weld them in place. With the por-15, sealant, and undercoating applied to the rust and yoour sheet metal, the repair will last as long as the rest of the vehicle and probably longer considering the fact that if you have rust in one place you're bound to have it in others.:beerchug:

If you want to do it even better, cut the rusty metal out, remove all rust, weld new sheet metal in and paint accordingly. If you don't cut the rusty metal out, it will continue to rust.

Avoid the use of undercoating. Water can get under the coating and make things rot out much faster than without the coating.

x2 on removing the rust. It only continues to grow.

If you want to do it even better, cut the rusty metal out, remove all rust, weld new sheet metal in and paint accordingly. If you don't cut the rusty metal out, it will continue to rust.

Avoid the use of undercoating. Water can get under the coating and make things rot out much faster than without the coating.

Yeah, I know the best route it to just weld in a whole new tub but I was thinking an easier fix that would keep the water out of the truck and give me some time until I a) learn how to weld :( and b) have the time for a project like that. I've got such a huge list of things to do already and I really want to get it back on the road by Christmas. If I can do something that will last 12-18 months, that would probably do the trick.

The POR-15 if applied according to directions does a fantastic job of stopping the rust completely.

Keep in mind that you can get replacement wheel wells for these relatively cheap. The way I see it, you're better off doing it right the first time. I've done rust repair, none of it has really turned out at all, and all I have to say is do it right. Since that's not a cosmetic part it is significantly easier to deal with - cut out rusty metal, clean surrounding areas to bare metal, beg/borrow/steal welder, con a guy who knows how to weld into welding it, spray with a good heavy layer of undercoating and call it good... You probably won't even see the weld under the undercoating. Cosmetic rust areas are significantly more difficult to fix in my opinion, and be aware that the typical route with those things is wheelwells first, then rocker panels a couple years later. If you're seeing the wheelwells going I suppose the panel under the rear doors is going as well, no?

I would just go with the new tubs, under coat them off of the truck, and just be careful when you install them.

Keep in mind that you can get replacement wheel wells for these relatively cheap.

I found lot's of sources for the front but not the rear. Any pointers are appreciated!


If you're seeing the wheelwells going I suppose the panel under the rear doors is going as well, no?

The only cosmetic rust on the truck is the far rear lower quarters. The rest of the body and frame/underside looks good. The PO had extensive bodywork done some time ago and I suspect that they skipped the wheel wells.

My 88 suburban is a rust bucket and i suspect it will get me one more good year before it's too far gone to keep driving, and it's already too far gone to repair, with rust having seperated many important parts(sheet metal is so far gone you get you hand inbetween the fenders and wells, doors, tailgate). So long story short i hope i can find a newer burb or ck truck with a diesel in it soon, or i'll be buying a 04 or newer cross over(tear)

My 88 suburban is a rust bucket and i suspect it will get me one more good year before it's too far gone to keep driving, and it's already too far gone to repair, with rust having seperated many important parts(sheet metal is so far gone you get you hand inbetween the fenders and wells, doors, tailgate). So long story short i hope i can find a newer burb or ck truck with a diesel in it soon, or i'll be buying a 04 or newer cross over(tear)

I wish I had the room to save all these trucks that I see. Too bad you are on the wrong side of the country.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/831375072.html

installing the new metal if you don't know how to weld or have a welder is still possable. if you have an auto body supply store near by check out the new epoxy they have for installing panels, super strong and seals seem at same time. most new vehicles use it from the factory for non structural applications

truely in my opinion you can get by with using pop rivets i have a 78 suburban that someone put "used" quarter pannels on, on both sides and along the body line from the back door to the tailgate was a pop rivet every inch i took the truck mudding and all that happy stuff none of them ever fell out and i'm sure it was like that years before i even bought it

Nate

Pop rivets will hold if they're put in right, no doubt about it, but its far from the best solution. That sets up corrosion and flex issues.