hi i recently bought a 28 foot toy hauler . i tow my jeep inside . so i am at about 10000 -11000 pounds . i have 38.5 inch tires . i have a 12 inch drop down hitch but it is only rated at 5000 pounds . any speeds over 60 mph and the trailer sways . i have deaver springs in the rear and they are very soft so i think i need load levelers my question is does anybody know where i can get a 12 inch drop rated at 10000 pounds . and do i need airbags for the saging or will the load levelers take care fo that ? i do not want to flop the axels on the toy hauler . thanks

Personally, I wouldn't tow with that big a lift and tire setup, But that's not what you ask for!

I'd search the internet to see who has a sway hitch with the rating your looking for, but to be honest, I don't think you'll have any luck. BUT, I've been wrong before!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif

You mentioned you don't want to flip the axles on the toyhauler, any particular reason why? I know it raises the center of gravity but if it get's you in the range of a safer hitch, it would be worth it.

You might also get the trailer weighed as you have it loaded to just make sure your with in the capacity of everything. That lift and tires have probably reduced it by the way but I couldn't tell you how much.

A 10,000# hitch by the way is also asking for trouble if you think your even close to being over. I'd recomend looking for something in the range of 12,000-14,000#'s and one with sway bars. The higher the better.

A higher rated receiver might also be in order. Others have had problems with the factory one.

TT

Try the Reesse Titan custom kit and have your welder custom make a hitch to meet your needs and get the 2.5 inch ball mount with 1000# bars. not cheap but worth every dollar spent not losing your trailer and jeep.

check redneck.com or i believe rednecktrailersupply.com having one of those mooments, they should have what you need or are looking for there, alsoe the trailer sway bars would probably be a good idea for the sway, usually meens not enough tongue weight or to much weight on the tongue. for the wieght you are towing I would defenately upgrade to a reese titan, just reread you post.

thanks everyone . i am getting air bags next week so that will help the sag . i am gonna use the anti swaybars also . tounge weight should not be a problem i have my generator welded on the toiunge . the trailer sways over 60 mph . i dont plan on towing much faster maybe 70 . i am just having trouble finding a drop down large enough .

If the trailer is swaying, it is due to one of two reasons, Either the tongue weight is too light or it is too heavy. Since you say it is sagging, it is probably too heavy which lifts the front axle, causing light steering and sway. Air Bags may lift the rear axle and mask the sag but in doing so, they lift even more weight off of the front axle, which accents the light steering or sway problem. Use a load equalizing hitch to reduce the sag. It will transfer weight TO the front and stabilize the steering and sway. Then use the air bags to plant the rear axle for traction. Been there, done that and it works.

Bob

Replace the factory receiver. The welds tend to crack. People said at around 6,000 LBS.
Also flip the axles on the springs. I did to our fifth wheel. Wasn't happy about it, but needed to be done. Gave us a better ride.

To find a hitch to drop that low and have a good weight rating is not very likely. Trucks with lifts on them are not really designed to tow. Especially the weights you are talking. Just my own opinion......

Good advise here. While I would never tow a trailer that heavy with the truck you describe, I would definately flip the axles were I in your position.

Meanwhile, if I see you in that setup barrelling down on me at 70(!) I will go as fast as possible in the other direction. :D

Marc

the truck tows just fine . with power level 2 on juice it takes off fast from a dead stop. and it also stops good using my trailer brakes . just cant find anyone that sells a drop down long enough with a load capacity big enough .maybe that says someting . still searching .

scary scary.... If you're worried about stability flipping the axles, you'd be much better off flipped and able to use a weight distributing hitch and adjust your load for proper tongue weight. If you can't get above 60, you've got to be way off.

Also, check load rating on your tires and sway bars etc from suspension lift.

Equilzer hitch for your setup everything else will make it worse or take the lift out. Reverse spring will help.
Been there done that my 2c

From what I have seen about the drop down draw bars..... You might be able to get something custom made, for a weight distributing hitch.

Certainly replace the factory receiver. There have been posts on the factory one cracking.

OMG, that is just plain nuts! Sorry, but your askin' for trouble IMHO.

Look at http://www.equalizerhitch.com/home.html and see how much of a drop you can get on their 14k pound setup. Its' no Hensley Arrow, but for the price they work pretty well.

Drop kick that OEM receiver to the curb and get a Putnam XDR or Titan (more $$$ for more hassle, but that is up to you).

Forget the airbags and follow these steps assuming you find a weight dist. drawbar setup (which I kinda doubt):

Proper Hitch Adjustment

One important factor in tow vehicle/trailer stability is proper adjustment of a conventional load-distributing hitch. Proper adjustment means that the trailer is level and that the tow vehicle remains in the same attitude as before hitching. For example, if the tow vehicle was canted up at the rear before hitching (typical of pickup trucks), it should remain at the same angle after hitching. The concept of a properly operating load-distribution hitch is that it should distribute weight to all axles of the tow vehicle and trailer. To make certain this happens, follow these steps:

Measure the vehicle at reference points on front and rear bumpers with the vehicle loaded for travel but prior to hitching.

Hitch the trailer and adjust the spring-bar tension so weight appears to have been added to the front as well as the rear of the tow vehicle.

Re-measure the front and rear reference points. If, for example, the rear of the vehicle has dropped 1 inch and the front has only dropped ¼ inch, add more tension to the spring bars, which will raise the rear and lower the front. Continue adjusting until the measurements are approximately the same. If the discrepancy is unavoidable, the rear of the vehicle should drop slightly more than the front.

If the spring bars cannot be adjusted tight enough to achieve similar or identical vehicle height reduction, stiffer spring bars may be needed. The spring bars should be rated for at least the amount of the hitch weight of the trailer, plus 200 pounds if the tow vehicle is softly sprung. If, after proper adjustments of the tow vehicle is achieved the trailer is not level, the ball mount should be raised or lowered.

Remember, it doesn't matter if you can go 0-100-0 in 10 seconds with that rig IF YOU CAN CONTROL IT!

the height isn't too bad of an issue, used to run a Gulp(fordf350) with 10"lift rolling 38"s towing a 38'scarab, just had it all set up and spent some time at the scales to get the load balanced out. Had the titan hitch as well, the drop that i have now on my rig will goto 12" but ahve seen bigger. let me dig that website up for as well.

DM: "the truck tows just fine . with power level 2 on juice it takes off fast from a dead stop. and it also stops good using my trailer brakes ." :o:

IMHO until DM gets the rig weighed and we know what weight is where we're kinda grasping at straws. I didn't see where DM provided the specific toy hauler and model. :confused: That generator on the tongue may actually compound your situation. We need more intel, GET' ER WEIGHED! :exactly:

Taking off and stopping are the easy parts, try swirving to miss a 200# buck at 45 mph and you'll find out just how firmly your rear end is planted back there! :eek:

Good discussion guys! We always come out of these with a better understanding of towing and help someone at the same time. Hats off! JJ :)

JJ:IMHO until DM gets the rig weighed and we know what weight is where we're kinda grasping at straws.

Agreed, but assuming this is a relatively new commercially made TH in the 28' range, I'd be willing to bet a few $$ that it is between 7-8k dry. 600-800 dry tongue weight before the Genset. Back in November, I looked at just about every brand out there in this length, and they were generally all about the same, give or take a few pounds based on quality, amount of interior cabinets, etc. When he says he is at 10k with a Jeep inside it is probably pretty close, NOT including water, gear, LPG, parts/spares and possible fuel for an onboard fuel station.

I've kinda got the opposite problem in that I had to raise the head on my drawbar to match the 29" ball height requirement of my Desert Fox:
http://ww2.leamonland.com:91/photogallery/NewYears_05/images/DSCN4760.jpg

OB, I'm just more comfortable dealing with the specifics, i.e. front axle, tow axle, trailer axle weights, fully loaded with the trailer and truck specs in front of me! :confused: As you are well aware toy haulers take on a totally different dynamic than regular travel trailers. A garage on wheels requires a bit more figuren IMHO! :rolleyes: First things first though, DM needs to get his rig weighed and post. JJ :)

i will get it weighed . pink slip says 4800 pounds thats dry and year is a 97 so it is lighter than new ones of the same size at 28 feet .

DM, it will cost you about $8 to get it weighed at any local truck stop along the interstate. Good intel for the money! ;)

While we're waiting what brand toy hauler is this? Toy haulers are fairly new, 97 sounds like one of the earliest versions. Sounds like double axle at that light weight. Pictures would be very beneficial. JJ :)

thanks for your help jj and everyone i will post some pics soon . its not as pretty as some i have seen on this site so bare with me . she does get the job done though . its got everything i need and it fits my jeep in the back so i am happy . i think i found a place that will have a drop down long enough with weight dist included .i will have to wait and see and take some measurments . thanks


oh its a redline toy hauler . i think the same as dunes .

DM,

I'm coming up empty finding Redline toy haulers on the net. Who manufactures them? Any links? JJ :)

should be the same thing as dunes trailer . thanks hey jj do you have any pics of your 5th wheel ?

DM, you can go to Sunnybrook's website and look at their toyhaulers. I have the 390SUT. Their units are more high end and plush moreso than sporty like most toy haulers. Mama JJ and I use it to haul our business products for sale at shows around the country. We like the creature comforts. Later. JJ :)

DM, I see a 24B (27' 10" long) and a 26A (29' 7" long), both of which are double axle and have a dry weight around 5200lbs and cargo capacity of 3450-3490 respectively. These are dry weights before any options and your stuff are added, e.g. a/c unit; awning; propane and tanks; dishes; food; water; clothes; TV; etc. :o:

GVWR on both these units is 9600lbs. Now we need your weights so we can determine where the load is on each axle and develop a solution. JJ :)

Don't worry about the looks DM. It's all about getting out there and living!

i finally found a solution . a local welding shop is making me a custon gusseted shank 18 inches long . once the head is on the shank the top of the ball is 15 inches to the top of the hitch . just where i need it . i also picked up the weight distribution and 14000 lb ball . air bags are being added on tuesday . i am also having removable bars with heim joints welded from the bottom of the shank to the frame of the truck for added support . i will post pics when i get them . thanks . dm

Interesting/creative setup, can't wait to see the pictures. Later. JJ :)

http://rvwholesalers.com/catalog/product.php?productid=268&cat=0

How about this 12000lb sway and weight all in one.