Hello all,
Totally new to Diesels and I have a question already about a truck I just got.

I privious owner also gave me a manual pump (not sure if it is a lift pump or the other pump), I guess he said someplace on this site was a howto to convert the electric to this manual pump. I guess it is from a Hummer or something...

Anyways 2 questions...

1) What is the benifit?
~I think he said it was for performance?

2) Where is the how to, anyone know?

Welcome to DP! Please update your signature, it helps us help you. Because not all 6.5TD are created equal. Thanks!

Know I do not fully understand your question! Could you reask your question and give us more details!

Well I do not really know how to better ask it either to be honest...

I just got it today, it does not run currently, I am not worried about trouble shooting that right now.

BUT: When I got it, I also got a pump. I think it is a lift pump?? I was told it is a manual pump and I think he said it was from a Hummer, it has 8 threaded brass deals he said would have to be changed to the correct size for the lines on the truck, it also looks like it has a 3 bolt flange where it bolts to something to I would guess turn it (hence "manual")

So my delima is this, currently I will likely just diagnose and repair the truck as is with stock parts. But I still would like to see whats up with this manual pump and what benifits there would be to convert to it before I toss it. I guess he said something about being it is manual it can be tuned to supply more fuel better then electric pumps and so with performance upgrades I guess this could be a good thing...

Anyways, Has anyone heard of converting our trucks from an electric to manual (supply/fuel) pump?

This is what I got...

http://i9.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/d9/d1/07d1_1.JPG

So I guess it aint a lift pump but an injection pump... how many pumps are there?

A mechanical lift pump will not work on our truck without mods. Our turbo oil drains into a plate were the mechanical pump once was on older models. The injection pump is under the intake in the center of the motor. The lift pump is under the drivers door mounted on the inside frame rail. The lift pump looks like a old inline fuel filter with two wires sticking out.
The lift pump pulls the fuelout of thye tank and pushes it towards the injector pump. The injector pump moves the fuel to each cylinder in time with the motor.
I will check out your link to see what it is you are talking about.

Your link did not work!

I will say this 1992 threw 1993 came with a mechanical injector pump. From 1994 threw 2000 the 6.5TD came with an electronically controlled injector pump. Is this what you are asking about?

The link is fixed... I guess its the injector pump, so I am guessing there is lil to no real benifit to swap?

If you can pull it off their is a benefit, No more PMD!
Do some searching and look thru the FAQ somebody on here has done it.

No more PMD!quote]
that would be the bebefit as far as i can see exept also it can be turned up w/ a few mods which i'm not familure w/. diesel power just had a write up on the PD-2's but failed to mention any mods.
http://flashoffroad.com/Diesel/injectionpump/mechanicalpump.htm
[quote=RCpullerdude;2710551]
Not to mention to use that extra fuel. Dumping in more fuel without more air is a waste of fuel, and will result in black smoke and poor milage. An engine needs two things to run, fuel and air. You are limited by the one you have least of.

More fuel without more boost will result in stock power with high EGT's, black smoke, and poor fuel milage.

More boost without more fuel will result in a small increase in power over stock to a point, and beyond that, you're just adding air without fuel, and getting excessive IAT's.

Now, I say that boost will increase power a little because when I'm going WOT up a hill near me, there is a haze of smoke out the exhaust. More boost (air) will put in air to burn the fuel that is coming out as smoke, and turn that black smoke into power. Not a lot, but it will increase a little.

Now, to get appricable gains, you're going to need to add both air and fuel. That is because fuel cannot burn alone, and air cannot burn alone, but together, they do, and the more of them you have together, the more "boom" there is.

Yep, the benefit would be that you dont have any electronic crap to worry about. And you can turn it up for more power, unlike electronic pumps you need a chip or programmer which costs money. I turned mine up all the way.

You have a DB-2 style injection pump. They were on everything from GM diesels 5.7L-6.5L and such. The pump can be calibrated to the DS-4 Pump spec on a test bench by your local fuel shop. I am an old fuel shop Tech with Stanadyne Certification and have played a few games with both of these pumps.

The DB-2 Style pump has 2 plungers where the DS-4 has four plungers. You can get the same fuel out of both of these pumps for the most part.

The DB-2 pump has a shut off solinoide located under the top cover that you will need to hook up. The timing on the DB-2 pump is controlled mechanicly so you can do away with the stepper motor. You will also do away with the PMD connection and Encoder sensor connection.

These pumps have the same mounting as the DS pump, just remove the oil fill tube, remove the 3 bolts in the gear, remove the mounting nuts and she is off. THe new pump goes on in reverse order.

If you want to crank up that pump you have do the following.

Remove the top cover and look toward the rear of the pump. Rotate the pump shaft arround until you see an allen head screw come arround. Crank down on this screw maybe a 1/8 of a turn and you allow the plungers to travel out further and in turn pump more fuel.

In my opinion convert hat sucker over and you wont think about pump issues for another 200k miles if you change fuel filters out regulary and add a good additive like the stanadyne additive.

Good luck witht then truck.

In my opinion convert hat sucker over and you wont think about pump issues for another 200k miles if you change fuel filters out regulary and add a good additive like the stanadyne additive.

Good luck witht then truck.

Thanks for the response 95burban, but let me ask you this, I think in the link referenced above (or someplace) I read that I can't convert to manual if I have an auto and/or 4x4, of which I have both. Is this true?

check out www.compushift.com (http://www.compushift.com) for a stand alone transmission controller. I would think if you used one of these units, and reflashed the PCM for a manual transmission, and deactiveted all transmission codes in the PCM you would be good to go. We do this all the time when we install a TH400 into late model F-body cars. I would imagine that a good reflash could also turn off the need for the encoder sensor signal, since the PCM gets its RPM from the speed sensor located on the oil pump drive I believe.

i think you would be better off using the electronic pump....have you even diagnosed it yet?? maybe its a $20 fix?

stupid computers......i do have a 93 tranny computer that has the mech injection pump.....i would think you could just plug that right in?

i think you would be better off using the electronic pump....have you even diagnosed it yet??

Well I just got her fired up, all I had to do was fully charge the batteries, bleed the system, & fix some fuel line leaks. But still using the electronic IP, & lift pump.

Still wonder about the manual LP but I guess I will pass for now.

What about RPM governer?
DS4 is eletronic, and as far as I know Heath has had one up to 5600rpm, can the DS2's governer be tinkered with to get the same results?

Yes, the gov. can be adjusted. It is a flyweight setup that is controlled via a spring that rides on a rod. You can open up the top of the pump and turn the screw that sticks out of the housing on the pump and increase tension against the flyweights. This changes the break away rpm allowing the pump to continue to supply fuel above the origional rpm. You can also play games by unscrewing the cap off the fuel inlet to the pump and there is a small pump of sorts that supplys fuel the the head section of the pump. There is a spring setup that limits the supply pressure to the head and you can tighten this as well to increase the supply of fuel being delivered to the head. Just one more way to squeek a few more horse power from the DB-2 pump. There are also some high horsepower pumps that one could use to modify the DB-2 for a GM engine that would increase the flow limits the size of the pump internals places. I should buy a calibration bench and start building these things for guys on the board.

I should buy a calibration bench and start building these things for guys on the board.

Got any ready yet? :D