I just recently ordered a fingerstick, and I was wondering the method that most of you have been installing the wires?....I see some use inline taps, while others soldier. I prefer to soldiering but, I need to know how thick are the wires on the harness and what size inline taps should I use? I noticed that 3M makes some that can withstand 270 degrees and I that engine compartment can get pretty hot.

I also have the egr plate and was wondering, do I need an extra gasket when I put the plate in, and if not which side do I put the plate in relation to the gasket? (do I put it between the gasket & pipe or gasket & egr?)

So....any advice is greatly appreciated!!

thanx
JLew;)

no extra gasket is needed for the egr blocker plate.

as for the finger stick, solderring is best. i tried the crimp on connectors and kept getting intermittent connections. plus the crimp on connections aren't great for with all the heat and elements that nature throw there way. soldering will allow you to hide it much better when the job is complete and will give you less headaches.

solder it, some shrink wrap and a bit of conduit and black tape..makes install invisable

Sounds like soldiering is the best way, but which is the best way to strip the insulation to expose the wire?


JLew

um, wirestripper.

um, wirestripper.
I understand that but, how do you do it without cutting the wire?

JLew

I understand that but, how do you do it without cutting the wire?

JLew


:confused:

it will be easier to cut it so you can heat shrink it. if you cut it, make the cut ends of the wire short and pre-solder the tips. on the finger stick wires, strip them back longer, maybe twice as long, and pre-solder them. then it will be easier to solder the 2 wires together and then add in the third for the splices. you'll see when you do it the best way for you.

The reason I think my previous post didn't make sense is because on the install instructions it says NOT to cut any of the wires, except the yellow wire only. that is why I was wondering on how to strip them without cutting them.


JLew:rolleyes:

O...I see now

I cut the wires so that you can slide the shrink tube on, then solder it all back up nice

you can buy at you local napa or parts store, small connectors that look like butt splice connectors but have a small ring of solder in it. you would have to cut the wires, strip the ends and slide two in one side and one in the other. Then use a small torch and melt the solder and the plastic is also a shrink tube. They work very nice. I use them on my snocat as they are water proof. Jeff

I took an exacto knofe and cut a slit in the insulation real careful. Then I bent the wire. THe bare wire will then separate from the insulation. You can cut off the insulation then to expose the bare wire. I then take the wire that I want to solder into that line and weave it into the bare wire. Hold a soldering iron on the bottom to heat it up while holding the solder on top. When it gets hot enough, the solder will liquefy and be drawn into the wire. After that I tape it up real good and go to the next wire. The only wire you have to completely cut is the yellow one.

I have a ?? about the heat shrink tubing, Will a 1500 watt hair dryer also work on the tubing , or will I have to use a hotter gun?


JLew:ro)

I don't think a 1500 watt hair dryer will get hot enough, but maybe. Try it out.

If you go with the taped joint, try a product called liquid electrical tape. I don't remember who makes it, you can get it at West Marine, but I'll sure lots of other places that carry eletrical stuff also has it. I've used outside exposed to elements and it held up great. You paint it on the tape and it makes the connection water tight.

Jim

hi there i was wondering what is a fingerstick and where does it go thanks

hi there i was wondering what is a fingerstick and where does it go thanks
The condensed version of Finger Stick info is here (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21428) including how to order. Do a search and you will have a couple of days worth of reading.

The instructions given are aimed a bit low on the skill/hassle meter. I was trying very hard to avoid any confusion. You need to decide yourself how clean an install you want to attempt on your own. Some of the people have posted pictures of the installation and they are nearly invisible.

buy a wire stripper that is auto matic (on one side it will hold the wire and the other side stripes it ) . now DONT CUT THE WIRE!! plan your location of wires out. install the tool and slowly squeese the stripper it should open the wire up to expose the copper. it should not cut the wire but it will seperate it. then soder the wire on to the connection the only down side is the black tape that is used to cover the connection. the only wire that is cut is the yellow maf sensor wire

The way I do it without solder is to use a razor knife and shave the wire. Then slip the blade in the middle of the wire and twist it gently. This will spread the wire open. Strip the wire off the Finger stick back about 3/4 inch and divide the strands into even groups, then twist them individually. Slip the two even strand groups through the spread opening in the wire and fold them back one over one side, the other over the other side, then twist them together, cover with a little tape and you're done.

It makes a good connection without cutting wires that isn't a PITA to undue if you should ever need to remove it. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

That's a method I haven't heard about before. Interesting way to tap wire..

Can't take credit for it. Got it from an alarm system installer. DEI, the maker of Viper, Python, etc. apparently trains it techs to install in this manner. That way, they avoid using those inline splice connectors that, while may save the tech some time, end up cutting several strands of wire when they are mashed on. Soldering is nice, but if you get the wrong wire and have to move it or take it out all together, PITA.

I've used this method for a while now, and it works quite well. As you twist in the final step, it closes the loop and tightens everything up quite nicely. I then just criss-cross wrap the tape around the connection. I wire loom everything afterwards anyway and tape the end of the loom.

I like a nice clean soldered connection with heat shrink etc., but this works and its much faster. Besides, who am I to argue with DEI? :D

Pics of how to do it. I think I understand what you are saying, but pics would help clarify....

Sorry about the quality. Can't seem to get the camera to focus on the wire very well, but I think you can get an idea....I hope. :D

First, shave the wire.
http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2804&stc=1

Then spread the wire
http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2805&stc=1

Then split the wire you are splicing into the circuit
http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2806&stc=1

Then insert the wire. I know its blurry, but you can see how you bend the two legs back over the two spread sections. Kinda makes a big "M".
http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2807&stc=1

Then twist the two hanging legs back around the trunk of the wire. This will draw the spread section closed and tighten the two legs together as well.
Once again, I know its blurry, but there are no broken strands at all!
http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2808&stc=1

Just put a about a 1.5 inch piece of tape over this union by criss-crossing over and back and you're done.

If you ever have to undo this, you just untwist it, slide the wire out of the other one and cover the shaved section with tape. Quick and painless. No dropped solder on important wiring or engine parts.

Hope this helps.

Good luck!

Clearly, I have no idea how to manage images properly! :banghead: :duh: :HiHi:

I forgot to mention, this is for demo puposes only. It appears in the pics that this makes a "T" shape, but once you have it twisted tight, the joining wire can be formed down to lay parallel with the existing wire. It will not loosen the connection. You could just form it parallel then tape it that way. It really depends on the location of the tap.