I'm trying to follow BMDMAX's "Guide to Gauge Hotness" and I think I need the "Gauge Hotness for Dummies" version. I've searched everywhere on the forum, but can't seem to get the answer(s) I'm looking for. Right now I'm concentrating on the boost gauge, so here goes...

I've got the gauges in the Trippin overhead mount, with all wires and tubing run down to the driver's side fuse panel area. I've drilled the firewall (and put in a grommet) for the thermocouple wire and the boost tubing. I then put in Super Diesel's manifold, which has been tapped for all kinds of connections. Note: the SD manifold is really slick, but I grossly underestimated the wrestling match that was required (and the removal and re-install of the AFE Stage II intake tube). I also took BMDMAX's guide one step further and put a 48" -3AN braided hose in from the SD manifold to inside the cab (it's really hot/dry here in AZ and I didn't think the nylon would survive long under the hood). I used teflon teflon tape on every NPT fitting and I was told not to use teflon tape on AN fittings (I've never used AN fittings before). I've checked and don't have any obvious leaks and there are no kinks in the tubing/hose from the gauge to the manifold.

Right now my Predator is only correcting the speedo for the larger tires, so no power is being added. At idle I see 0 (zero) boost. When cruising on the freeway (65 - 75 mph) in O/D, I see 0 boost. If I get on it (a little) from a stop light, I see around 22 psi boost. BTW, I'm using the 60 psi version of the Autometer gauge.

I've seen other threads where folks indicated they had 4 psi at idle, 4-6 psi when cruising on the freeway and peak boost around 27-28 psi. Do my boost numbers seem right or do I need to get more serious about tracking down leaks?

Unless you have a very large charger.. You don't need a 60lb gauge. Get the 35lb gauge instead. You will have better resolution. I've had both in my truck, and for daily driving the 35 is best. When trying new stacks, chargers etc.. go with the 60lb gauge and see what you get. I've got a DiProcol 100 lb boost with memory needle and it really is nice for measuring backpressure on the LLY.

azjake- that's about what my truck runs. 0 boost at idle, 0 cruising and it'll spike to 27 or so but levels off at 22-23 on hard accelleration. I also have the 60lb gauge.

0 at idle is normal, but both my #30 Isspro and my Edge Attitude show boost at any acceleration and it normaly "cycles" between 4 and 6 at steady speeds between 40 and 60 (Isspro is tapped into the wastegate hose and Attitude is reading the boost sensor on the manifold - so Attitude runs about 1 to 1.5# higher and responds quicker). I see that you need the higher boost range, but the 60# gauge is really stifling your ability to see "normal" lower boost readings.

LLY - Depends on the tune what boost you'll run cruising on the freeway. Tuners that modify the engine boost sensor signal will run a few PSI cruising at 70.

A stacked LLY will hit 45PSI boost at full tilt. Select your gauges accordingly.

Your numbers sound exactly like mine. The 60 pound gauge does loose a bit of low end resolution. I have already pegged 35 PSI with one tune so I will sacrifice on the low side for the big end numbers. I don't think that you have any errors in your install.

Do I care if it is making a few pounds of boost at cruise? NO. Do I want to know if I am trying a dangerous stack that is overboosting with the potential to frag the turbo? YES! A 35 pound gauge will never tell you that. Plus I am set for the future if there is a good compound or larger turbo down the road.

It really depends on what you want to do with the truck. Bottom line is do what you are comfortable with. I got the same ration when I went with the 60 pound gauge and now we are hitting 45 so I feel pretty good about the decision. :D

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I feel better knowning that others have stock numbers that are pretty much the same with what I'm seeing.

Next weekend, the EGT gauge...