gmctd
03-05-2005, 06:58 PM
Seems to be a more frequently occuring complaint.
One problem seems to be Lift Pump operation differences, '94-'95 OBDI vs '96-'02 OBDII.
OBDI lift pump runs only when engine is cranked, at START.
OBDII lift pump, controlled by PCM, runs in WAIT TO START and START, priming the Inj Pump long before START demand.
Extended START event after 5521 installation in OBDI appears to indicate Inj Pump has temporarily lost prime.
Other factors, such as weak lift pump, poor fuel filter sealing, loose fuel supply hose clamps, cracked\deteriorated hose, etc, will contribute to hard start.
As will incorrect timing procedure, bad glow plugs, bad fuel, etc.
HA ! ! ! as if ANY of those things could POSSIBLY be wrong with MY truck ! ! !
Yep - that badboy went from crank-to-run in 1/2 crank revolution with 5288 Inj Pump, to 2-5 crank revs, with new 5521 Inj Pump.
Talk about yer embarassin' situation - I don't EVEN drive no vehicle that's gonna leave copper starter-armature flakes on the ground underneath !
Well, here's one ole gearhead's solution - try it.......you'll like it!
What is required is for the lift pump to run in WAIT TO START, then continue running in START, where the OPS will take over as oil pressure increases with engine running.
What you'll be doing is connecting the two circuits together, such that neither circuit back-feeds the other - meaning WAIT TO START will not crank starter, and START will not GLOW, yet the lift pump will do it's thing at both events.
What you'll need is two @ 50volt 1 amp mimimum epoxy RECTIFIER diodes from Radshak - 1N4001, 1N4002, etc.
2amp or 3amp diodes - 1N5406, 1N5408 equiv - are more suitable.
Each epoxy diode will have a white band around one end.
What you will do is cut the purple\white lift pump wire from the 5a CRK (crank) fuse, splice in a rectifier diode to the short purple\white wire you left on the fuse-holder, and splice a second diode from the purple\white lift pump wire to the dark blue wire from the Glow Plug fuse-holder.
What needs to be done is connect the banded-end lead-wire on each diode to the purple lift pump wire.
Lead-wire at opposite end of one diode will connect to the CRK fuse, lead-wire at opposite end of second diode will connect to the Glow fuse.
What will promote electrical safety is to insulate any bare leads\wires.
What will happen is +12volts on either diode will energize the Lift Pump Relay, which applies pre-run power to the lift pump motor - the other diode blocks +12v to it's circuit.
What you should notice, all other things being equal, is easier starting.
What do you think? About that?
What? me worry? :cool:
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One problem seems to be Lift Pump operation differences, '94-'95 OBDI vs '96-'02 OBDII.
OBDI lift pump runs only when engine is cranked, at START.
OBDII lift pump, controlled by PCM, runs in WAIT TO START and START, priming the Inj Pump long before START demand.
Extended START event after 5521 installation in OBDI appears to indicate Inj Pump has temporarily lost prime.
Other factors, such as weak lift pump, poor fuel filter sealing, loose fuel supply hose clamps, cracked\deteriorated hose, etc, will contribute to hard start.
As will incorrect timing procedure, bad glow plugs, bad fuel, etc.
HA ! ! ! as if ANY of those things could POSSIBLY be wrong with MY truck ! ! !
Yep - that badboy went from crank-to-run in 1/2 crank revolution with 5288 Inj Pump, to 2-5 crank revs, with new 5521 Inj Pump.
Talk about yer embarassin' situation - I don't EVEN drive no vehicle that's gonna leave copper starter-armature flakes on the ground underneath !
Well, here's one ole gearhead's solution - try it.......you'll like it!
What is required is for the lift pump to run in WAIT TO START, then continue running in START, where the OPS will take over as oil pressure increases with engine running.
What you'll be doing is connecting the two circuits together, such that neither circuit back-feeds the other - meaning WAIT TO START will not crank starter, and START will not GLOW, yet the lift pump will do it's thing at both events.
What you'll need is two @ 50volt 1 amp mimimum epoxy RECTIFIER diodes from Radshak - 1N4001, 1N4002, etc.
2amp or 3amp diodes - 1N5406, 1N5408 equiv - are more suitable.
Each epoxy diode will have a white band around one end.
What you will do is cut the purple\white lift pump wire from the 5a CRK (crank) fuse, splice in a rectifier diode to the short purple\white wire you left on the fuse-holder, and splice a second diode from the purple\white lift pump wire to the dark blue wire from the Glow Plug fuse-holder.
What needs to be done is connect the banded-end lead-wire on each diode to the purple lift pump wire.
Lead-wire at opposite end of one diode will connect to the CRK fuse, lead-wire at opposite end of second diode will connect to the Glow fuse.
What will promote electrical safety is to insulate any bare leads\wires.
What will happen is +12volts on either diode will energize the Lift Pump Relay, which applies pre-run power to the lift pump motor - the other diode blocks +12v to it's circuit.
What you should notice, all other things being equal, is easier starting.
What do you think? About that?
What? me worry? :cool:
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