Changing the fuel filter today and got a little anxious with the wrench and twisted off the el-cheapo plastic bleeder screw. Censored I got the threads out easily, but now I need a replacement and the truck is dead in the water. If I remember correctly I read that the dealer rapes you for the screw or you can't even purchase it seperately from the filter head.

Any suggestions or know where I can get one quick??

:help:

Dmaxallitech has a stainless steel bleeder screw.
Call him up!

Second that. The stainless will never let you down. Factory one is a POS!

You can call Greg at lubespecialist. Same thing happened to me...worst was not the price..I think they wanted like 15.00...it was no one had one.

I called Greg...he had to my door the next day.

Greg actually has the s/s screws. You can get the Plastic OEM Screws seperate from the dealer, but its cheaper to get Gregs screw

Not only does Greg have the screws, he has a spiffy valve and tubing to pipe that nasty, smelly diesel out the fender well and into a catch bottle. Really slick, real neat. Best of all it doesn't use one of those yuky plastic screws. General must have been on drugs the day he thought up using a plastic screw there.

Jim

Carefull with the metal screws. The plastic screw is there so if you get over zealous you strip the screw instead of the fuel filter head.

I'd run a plastic screw in mine anyday. I have a s/s screw and while it is nice, you have to almost completely remove it to get the fuel out, and you risk loosing it. Plastic screw only takes a crack and when using my handy dandy WIF wrench, you will not strip it out and you cant get enough leverage to do any damage.. Man is that a nice piece... LOL

In truth, I use Greg's bleeder assembly - change the filters, turn on the lift pump and bleed away. I'm lazy!

I havent had any trouble with the plastic screw, but I just ordered a Fumoto valve, 4 pack of double pleat filters, and a bleeder valve from Greg cause it just makes more sense to me to have a valve instead of a screw. Also, as DMAXALLITECH said, the SS screws should have a looser thread engagement to allow air out, or have a slight groove machine for 2/3's the legnth of the threads to allow air out.

Actually, I believe Chris was saying the opposite. The plastic is easier to get air past the threads. I don't know cause I don't have the s/s screw but admit that I'm interested in the valve setup from Greg. Diesel is getting too spendy to spill across the frame.

Hi Guys, I'm a new cummins convert, and have been reading your comments on the Stainless Bleeder valve Greg Has, Do you have Gregs phone number or website to order these ? Being as I', new I have not seen the posts w/ these Numbers.
Jack
04/Dmax

Greg is: http://www.lubricationspecialistllc.com. He has a large selection of useful stuff.
Shortcut - Isn't the Evergreen Air Museum in McMinnville? 'On my list of places to see - when I travel without horses.

I'd run a plastic screw in mine anyday. I have a s/s screw and while it is nice, you have to almost completely remove it to get the fuel out, and you risk loosing it. Plastic screw only takes a crack and when using my handy dandy WIF wrench, you will not strip it out and you cant get enough leverage to do any damage.. Man is that a nice piece... LOLThe plastic one has a grove cut from end to head, the length of the screw and at right angle to the threads, which facilitates venting air. I have the SS screw from Greg and noted the same problem. Would it be possible to "MOTO-TOOL" a groove like the plastic one has? What do you think?

Thanks, Brian.

The plastic one has a grove cut from end to head, the length of the screw and at right angle to the threads, which facilitates venting air. I have the SS screw from Greg and noted the same problem. Would it be possible to "MOTO-TOOL" a groove like the plastic one has? What do you think?

Thanks, Brian.

Yes some have done this. I have looked into having it machined in when they are made but that is another process and doubles the price. Another option is ti use a flat file on all but the top couple of threads. I have done that before and it works fine.


Greg

I think a carefull touch with the moto tool would work well, just dont damage the sealing area.

Shortcut - Isn't the Evergreen Air Museum in McMinnville? 'On my list of places to see - when I travel without horses.Yup, Air Museum 3 miles from my house and never been there.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif
Friends have told me that it is beyond words how big the goose is standing next to it. A must see and maybe another 13 yrs of living here I will.

Back to topic-- Does anyone know if the valve and hose that greg sells is meant to stay in place or is it on then off after bleeding?? I assume it could just stay put. Thx

Yup, Air Museum 3 miles from my house and never been there.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif
Friends have told me that it is beyond words how big the goose is standing next to it. A must see and maybe another 13 yrs of living here I will.

Back to topic-- Does anyone know if the valve and hose that greg sells is meant to stay in place or is it on then off after bleeding?? I assume it could just stay put. Thx


The valve has been in place on my truck for 24K miles. Best thing since sliced bread.:D

Greg

Thanks Greg. Hope to see my screw in the mailbox SOON!. hint hint. :D

Carry extra bleeder screw with you. You never know when you could break or drop and loose one, and you're SOL.
I bought a few a couple of years back for a few bucks each.
Racor 10MM Vent Plug Kit, Part # RK 30818
At the time, I could only find the factory plastic bleeders at:

http://www.dieselpage.com/vehtype/pgmc66.htm

Maybe the Venders here can get them, but I don't know who.

I will stick with the plastic vents. I've changed about five filters, and bleed other time and am still on the original. Using a 1/2" nut driver and only finger tight is all you need. If you cross-thread or strip the filter housing, word has it a replacement filter housing will cost you around $512.

I broke mine about a month back. Called all local dealers had them do a search for the closest part was 500 miles away. Anyway I ordered on 2/7 from my local dealer still haven't got the part. Good news is I bought a standard 10M 1.5 thread bolt and slipped the oil ring on it to get bye. I want to get the new one before my make shift repair ripes the oil ring.

Here is a thread that shows the valve.

Great idea and very easy to use.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11278&page=1&pp=10&highlight=valve

Well I couldn't wait for the SS screw any longer so for under a $1.50 I made my own. Picked up one of those bolts with the allen-wrench style head which also is kinda like a thumb-screw. Don't know the proper name of it. Anyway, it was a 10X20 bolt which is too long so I hacked off 1/4", put a O-ring on it and it fits fine. I just hand-tightened it and away I went. Had to get it running as my AFE Stg II was delivered today and I had to give it a whirl. And whirl it does! Like everyone says: sounds like a jet engine. :exactly:

I think like everyone I had the same problem of the tube being a little too long to fit right. I left the bolts out of the filter housing piece and then I could get it on the turbo inlet. :grd: