I found the next weakest link in my drivetrain on friday. the plug welds on my rear diff where the axles are attached. Has anyone had to fix this problem before?

that sucks, I've seen some others that have done it. should be some pics on here.

What are you going to do fix it and reweld it?

That's the plan to try to get it pulled down to the right angle and weld the tubes this time. I don't think i really have a problem with traction now those BFG's are getting a lot of bite. The truck was not even hopping when it did that it was at the end of a nice smooth run just the next weak link in the driveline it was almost strong enough to snuff the turbo.

that is quite interesting. i have never seen that before but yet i havent been around to long. hope you get everything going agian

The only other trucks that I have seen do this is the newer Ford's with 6.0's in them. We had two do it at the same pull one year. Pull it back down and weld the axle tubes in.

I see you're running traction bars, are you running spring clamps, blocks or anything else? I'm suprised to see this happen as there are several of us with lots of hooks (over 200 myself) on these trucks without any problem with the rear axle housing.

I wonder if it's a dually thing.

More tires=more traction??

Or somehow the dually rears were not plug weld the same....

Or just a fluke.....



I see you're running traction bars, are you running spring clamps, blocks or anything else? I'm suprised to see this happen as there are several of us with lots of hooks (over 200 myself) on these trucks without any problem with the rear axle housing.

I see you're running traction bars, are you running spring clamps, blocks or anything else? I'm suprised to see this happen as there are several of us with lots of hooks (over 200 myself) on these trucks without any problem with the rear axle housing.

I'm not running clamps but I was running solid blocked suspension. It kind of suprised me too since I know a lot of people out there that are running a lot higher horsepower trucks and not having this happen. I have talked to a few other truck pullers and they say they have seen it happen its just not something you see every day. It is probably a dually thing. With 4 tires getting a bunch of bite and not spinning it is just a matter of what in the driveline is the weakest or will it pull the engine down until it gets under the turbo. Of course I think other than the new SRW 3500 trucks it should be different than most other rear ends out there on the track in stock trucks.

I guess I will have to give a word of advice to all other dually owners to take a look at this before the same thing happens to them. Its a cheap fix if you don't have to straighten it first.

I wonder if it's a dually thing.

More tires=more traction??

Or somehow the dually rears were not plug weld the same....

Or just a fluke.....

Do you have a video of his pull? I'm betting to much traction and not enough power at the end of the track and something had to give. I'm suprised it was that.

Do you have a video of his pull? I'm betting to much traction and not enough power at the end of the track and something had to give. I'm suprised it was that.

I am still waiting to see if the video shows anymore insight. It happend at the end of the track after the pan dropped and I was just about stopped. The track was really hard and was hooking up well

ouch, that really hurts! Sorry to see that happen Matt. Pull it down and reweld it and go at it agian!

ouch, that really hurts! Sorry to see that happen Matt. Pull it down and reweld it and go at it agian!

Thats the plan hopefully I get the chance this weekend I have been trying to get it done but its kind of hard when your out of state all week.

it sucks to have to replace a new u-joint after installing it the night before on the new driveshaft.

Anyone have a good way to fix this problem? Tried a couple of things but no luck i'm looking for some creative thoughts.

after you get it welded back you might think about building mounts and puting a brace like a top link off of a tractor on top of the housing my buddy had that problem with his dodge did that and it hasn't happened again.

after you get it welded back you might think about building mounts and puting a brace like a top link off of a tractor on top of the housing my buddy had that problem with his dodge did that and it hasn't happened again.

That is already in the works but I have to try to figure out how to get the thing back in the correct position. any suggestions??

Put a shit ton of weight in the bed, hook ur front to a tree on some asphalt and hammer down in reverse.

Make sure it in 2 wheel drive

I have a new housing for $400

Do you have a video of his pull? I'm betting to much traction and not enough power at the end of the track and something had to give. I'm suprised it was that.

After thinking about this comment and working on my truck for many hours to get the rear diff all straightened back out I just have a couple of things to say.

First for anyone out there who doesn't have their axle tubes welded it might not be a bad idea. If you happen to find yourself in the same situation that I was in get in touch I would be more than happy to fix your truck for a nominal fee.

Second: for Stroke this Dmax I have a question. How much is not enough power??? I know that there will be a day no matter how much power you make with your 2.6" turbo truck you will run into a situation where you have more traction than power at the end of the track. Unless you have really horrible tires or bad tracks. I wonder if anyone realizes how much traction and power it takes to twist the center of the diff on a dana 80. There are not too many people that are out there doing that with the rearends in the 3/4 ton trucks.

And a question for all others how much power does it take to create such a problem???. The plug welds were tough and 4 new BFG all terrains were biting hard and nothing else was moving just how much torque does it take????

and by the way I did get it fixed and it ain't easy.

I hope you didn't take offence to what I wrote. I wasn't trying to ripe on your truck at all. I'm sure it makes good power, and RC duallys are badass looking. I just twisted my driveshaft to hell last weekend, the same reseason you twisted your rearend. My truck got brought down to its knees at the end of the track. Too much traction, or to big of tire, not enough rpm(slowing the driveline down so much) or you can say not enough power. If you keep it up in the rpm things like this don't usually break.
Thats just my thinking, I don't know everything thats for sure.
You break different things at different hp levels. Friday night I broke a rear axle shaft right before my truck was going to spin out.
A buddy of mine did almost the same thing you did, only he took the whole rearend and shot it straight up. He was running new 35" BF muds with a stock allison heathy tuned duramax.
Maybe I'll have to weld up my tubes this offseason.
Good luck the rest of the season.

Its ok. Maybe I also forgot to mention the week before I did this to my truck I made my stock steel one piece driveshaft look like a pretzel. I replaced it with a heavy duty chrome moly driveshaft. It is just finding one weak spot after another. I think the next piece will be an axle.

My truck makes decent power for a stock lb7 w/ a lift pump and a turbo. The tuning from Danville helps alot. the last two tracks that I have pulled on were super hard and powering out some of the stronger 2.6 SRW trucks in the state. I do agree you are less likely to break things when you can spin out at the end but unfortunatly all tracks are different and it's something some people will have to deal with.