Hey guys,<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

The vacuum pump on my wife’s Burb is starting to squeal like a stuck pig. I want to replace it with a spring loaded boost controller, but I do not want to pay $65 for one. Step by step, what is the best way to build one? <o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Thanks,<o:p></o:p>

John

Pretty straight fwd if you go to a site that has a pic of one you could probably figure it out, caution though just any ole spring won't do different stiffnesses to react with underhood heat, are required to get one that is truly adjustable.

Bill Heath has 2 different springs for different performance levels, what exactly is problem with vac system, what vac are you reading on the vac pump direct, WD-40 into the pump has restored some. You are sure it's vac pump, I thought same problem when my alternator bearings were going, idler also makes noise when it's going bad, hard to judge which of the 3 is actually making the noise.

If cost is an object, call Bill direct, maybe he can do something price wise for you, I don't want you to wind up with something that works half azzed especially on wifes burb. Talk about getting in trouble :eek: :eek: :eek:

Saw the vacuum actuator off it's mounting bracket. Leave bracket attached to turbo. Weld a piece of 1/4" threaded rod to the wastegate lever so that it runs thru a hole in the actuator mounting bracket. Slide spring on threaded rod, on back side of mounting bracket, and hold in place with a washer and a nut. Tighten/loosen the nut to tweak boost.

You should also grind the thread off the 1/4" rod where it goes thru the mounting bracket for smooth operation.

You'll have to mess with different springs to get the right one. Ace hardware in my home town had a decent selection. Took me three guesses before I got the right one. I think I spent a total of $10 - $15.

Thanks for your input everyone. I am about 90% sure the sound is coming from the vacuum pump. For one thing, the sound is definitely emanating from the passenger side of the engine. The driver’s side is quite as a church mouse. Plus I just replaced the alternator two months ago, so I can rule that out. Likewise, I seriously doubt it is the AC/ compressor, because that is brand new also and hasn’t even been used yet.

I just replaced the crankshaft pulley the other day, but I honestly can’t see how that would be squeaking. Besides, if it was, I would be able to here it on the drivers side as well. One more piece of empirical evidence that leads me to believe that the vacuum pump is on its way out is that my wife has been reporting a strange, sporadic loss of power, especially when going up steep hills. This leads me to believe that the waste gate is not functioning correctly.

All of these symptoms together leads me to believe that my vacuum pump is on the way out. Honestly, it is just about the only part I haven’t replace on this engine in the last year, so I couldn’t imagine it being anything else.

Not crankshaft pulley, spring loaded idler/tensioner arm

Well thanks Juancho, I was going to post the same question, and I got the answers I needed as well, except for one, if I make a spring loaded boost ...controller and do away with my vac pump, what do I do with the lines? Do I just take them off or just plug them up? Thanks for the advice. Oh yeah, where can I find some boost and pyro gauges, my local parts store wants 130.00 dollars just for the pyro gauge with no probe!!

Mine is a 'F' engine, so how do I remove all traces of the WG solenoid?

Only problem you may have is overboost code depending how far you push you new found boost, so you may need to incorporate a fooler. As far as disabling it in an F engine truck just unplumb the vac lines, leave the solenoid hooked up, this is a stretch but a remote possibility of stray tron into the PCM from an open ended electrical hook up, so connected it will keep all tron paths happy as they can come and go like they are supposed to, no chance for "queer trons" sneaking in on an un-terminated harness or device.

Boost gage can be found anywhere, EGT meter that is the expensive part, search for K thermocouples, don't limit yourself to automotive, remember boats & airplanes sometimes monitor EGT, or you can bite bullet and buy a kit from someone that has them available already as you will need a probe-meter- & (Cr-Al ) wire to hook it up, mine came with my Banks Stinger kit.

Well thanks Juancho, I was going to post the same question, and I got the answers I needed as well, except for one, if I make a spring loaded boost ...controller and do away with my vac pump, what do I do with the lines? Do I just take them off or just plug them up? Thanks for the advice. Oh yeah, where can I find some boost and pyro gauges, my local parts store wants 130.00 dollars just for the pyro gauge with no probe!!