Anyone tell me if this PMD will work on my 6.5? It looks cheap enough to keep as a spare.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7957855589&category=33553

The question really is "will it work when it's in your truck." as any good driver would, without stalling or like the one I'm using on my '94, I have no cruise control. That said, Mcray, a member here, bought a couple from an auction guy and they were good. They come from injection shops. The link has an extra http:// in it.

crowne, i have purchased several pmd's from this guy and everyone has worked flawlessly. i like to have a couple spares and gave one to my buddy also. at his price you cant go wrong. i believe he also will exchange for no charge if unit does'nt work within 14 days of recieving. after paying i had my pmd's in 3 days.got tired of paying $300.00+ for a stupid black box from the gm stealer.

Crowne,

I have purchased a couple from him also. I have installed to check yet, but I can tell you the don't look beat up in any way. I'll let you know after this weekend if there OK?

bowtie65>14 days of recieving is for US buyer only. I'm in Canada.It comes AS IS. Still cheap tho.

i would take my chances at that price. plus it is a huge bonus to have a spare in your glovebox. sorry crowne, i didnt know you were from canada. i dont know about you but i sure do miss hockey.

I was told that once your PMD goes good chance your pump is on the way out since a bad PMD will start messing it up? Any truth to this?

diesel grinch, there is no truth to that rumor. put that one to bed. i had gone through 4 pmd's in 150,000 miles and i just recently replaced my pump for the first time. (guess i got a good one) pmd's go usually by the heat from being mounted to the side of the pump where it cant cool down. mounting it on a cooler greatly increases the life of the pmd but it can still go bad on the cooler. that is why it is a good idea to carry a spare pmd in the glove box. pmd goes bad and you can change it out in a couple of minutes and your rolling again.

I agree with bowtie65, having it remote mounted is easier to change out. Mine sits behind the drivers battery and I have had the PMD go south twice in that location. It's the luck of the draw when dealing with electronic parts.

I just bought one, it takes 5 minutes to install and check it out. In fact I will use it instead of my new one (1 month old) and test it good for 14 days.

At $ 37.00 shipped it's a steal. Will cost more a tow truck....

hey val, just read your reply. where did you get a 2.75" x-over pipe? pmd is a steal for $37.00 huh?

bowtie65> I miss the Jets.:mad:

That's the benefit of having a #9 resistor?<!-- / sig -->

crowne, resistor # = 1.5% fuel output. a stock resistor is a #5. each # gives you 1.5% more fuel. so a #9 gives more fuel. more fuel + more air = more power. i miss mario lemieux.

Bowtie, I bought mine online on Ebay, it is a Flowmaster and it had the downpipe also included, it was I believe $ 125.00 shipped.

I didn't need the downpipe since it came with exhaust system, so I traded shop for labor installing crossover.

Bowtie, I bought mine online on Ebay, it is a Flowmaster and it had the downpipe also included, it was I believe $ 125.00 shipped.

I didn't need the downpipe since it came with exhaust system, so I traded shop for labor installing crossover.the one i saw from flowmaster the largest size was 2.5" could not find a 2.75. did you have to get new donuts for the flanges. i think stock ones are only 2.25".

I noticed there's two sizes and both are listed for 6.5L. You can tell when it's time for a new set as the wire mesh will be exposed and soot burns will tell the tale.

You can get the same pipe from flowmaster to your door for $85 from 21st centuary exaust, I only know about them from a post about 7 months ago, but recently a friend mention he bougt three or four of them. (he has a few trucks)

qm, i think the question here is if you have a 2.75" pipe and only a 2.25" donut what is the sense? seems like it would restrict flow.

I think the stock crossover's fine, and a 2.5" mandrel makes some sense. I made a 2.75" but I liked the stock one better.

I don't recall there being donuts on mine? Did I just miss them or were the 94-previous different from the 95-up. Maybe thats why flow master only lists this kit on 95+???

That's the little rounded piece that's stuck inside the exhaust manifold inlet/outlet on a inner sleeve.

PS I looked a new cummin's with the hood up at a shop where I got my inspection. The downpie is bigger than the turbo's diameter.

Hmmm, makes me wonder, I actually don't know exactly size, I just used seller specs...might have "stolen" 1/4" off my crossover.

Anyway just by replacing the donut gaskets you will feel a lot of difference, mine were bad and when accelerating hard I could hear the left bank leaking.

I think the stock crossover's fine, and a 2.5" mandrel makes some sense. I made a 2.75" but I liked the stock one better.
QM> Are you saying that you prefer the stock cross-over to a mandrel bent aftermarket one?

Might have to hold off on that deal, TDG.;)

How can you tell if your donut gaskets are leaking? By climbing under the truck and sticking your hand near the gasket while the engine is running?

Chop, chop...here it goes some fingers....


W_H mine was very noticeable, besides sound, there was lots of smoke when starting it cold

I tried to remove 1 bolt and snapped it off...that's when I took whole rig to mechanic, they are used to tough bolts, I would've ended up replacing header.
There are actually 2 gaskets, 1 on exhaust manufold to crossover and one on other side where it goes into turbo, so if you plan the job get 2 of them.

If you know a shop you might want to consider have them do it for you, it's a little extra money but these bolts are rusted, heated, and definitely stuck up there. It's a a bi%#ch of a job. It cost me $ 50 + trade of downpipe.

W_H mine was very noticeable, besides sound, there was lots of smoke when starting it cold.....Lots of blue smoke...where? Near the leaky donut gasket (under the hood) or out the tailpipe?

Yes right around donut gasket.
If you start your truck cold without plugging it in you'll notice it from inside engine compartment or if you remove the 1/2 round plastic splash guard between fender and motor.

Alrighty. I'll check it out on my burb, but I'm pretty sure none of my donut gaskets are leaking.

So (1) if your leaky donuts were the reason you felt such a performance increase with installation of your new cross-over, and (2) if QM's actual opinion of the stock cross-over is that it's just as good as any aftermarket one, I think I won't bother with replacing my cross-over with an aftermarket one.

Then I'll just focus my attention on getting bigger pipes from the downpipe flange on back. ;)

QM- I know you mentioned your cross-over opinion in a post in the last day or two. Could you verify? Thanks!

seems like everybody got a little lost here. the question i asked val was if he had a 2.75" x-over pipe then what size was the donut gaskets that were installed. my biggest question is that if the donuts were still the stock gm version they are only 2.25" donuts. so in theory a 2.75" pipe does not help if it is restricted by a much smaller donut. also if the factory exhaust manifold only has a 2.25"opening what bonus is it to upsize the x-over pipe? make sense to anyone?

QM> Are you saying that you prefer the stock cross-over to a mandrel bent aftermarket one?

Might have to hold off on that deal, TDG.;)

How can you tell if your donut gaskets are leaking? By climbing under the truck and sticking your hand near the gasket while the engine is running?
No,I'm saying I liked the stock crossover to my homemade one. stick your head under there with a flash light and look for soot stains around the donut and engine/surrounding area.

not sure on that original question, let's hear it from those who have a mandrel bent 2.75" on their ride.

seems like everybody got a little lost here. the question i asked val was if he had a 2.75" x-over pipe then what size was the donut gaskets that were installed. my biggest question is that if the donuts were still the stock gm version they are only 2.25" donuts. so in theory a 2.75" pipe does not help if it is restricted by a much smaller donut. also if the factory exhaust manifold only has a 2.25"opening what bonus is it to upsize the x-over pipe? make sense to anyone?is everyone trying to avoid this question?

Mine's bigger'n yours.............

Bend it without crinklin' it, and they'll buy it!

Yer right on the money, bowtie - 'port' matching is just as important in the exhaust, as in the intake.

Restriction\reduction causes turbulence, resulting in reduced flow-thru.:badidea:

gmctd, it seems to me that if you have a lets say 4" intake and a 4" exhaust and like a 2.5" true crossover that you would have the perfect breathing situation for these trucks. am i right or just delerious?

The crossover must match the outlet diameter of the driver-side manifold, AND the inlet diameter in the passenger-side manifold.

One guy on here lists a 3"dia crossover pipe - mine's bigger'n yours.............yeah, right!!!!!!!!!!!):h

Exhaust gas energy at low rpm is in heated volume, which creates velocity in the turbine for quick spool-up.

Exhaust gas energy at high rpm is in velocity of increased highly heated volume.

Permitting that volume to expand from 2.25" outlet at the driver-side manifold into a large diameter crossover pipe removes some of the heat energy.

Then, the large diameter crossover pipe exposes more surface area to the road draft under the truck, removing even more heat energy.

Then, the large diameter reduction back down to 2.25" at the passenger-side inlet results in turbulence and reduction in flow - a circumstance commonly known as INCREASED Exhaust Back Pressure.:badidea:

Yeah - gimme one o' them 3" suckers, muffler man!!!!!!!!!!;)

Now - the 3" dia down pipe matches the turbine exhaust elbow outlet, and since we have only the exhaust volume from ~3500rpm to flow, the 3" is suitable - just keep the bends smooth, with large radius bends.

Increasing that to 3.5" to 4", or larger (mines bigger'n yours!) does not offer any restriction to flow, and can be advantageous where multi-bends are required, and real estate is available.

Exhaust pipe diameter, post turbine, is owner's pride....er, choice.

Delerious, bowtie65? Don't know much about that, but your idea is correct, absolutely.:cool:

Whooa gentlemen...hold your horses and...zip up your pants.

I put 2.75 in my signature since I used the seller description.
I have pipe underneath truck and I am not going to remove it to check it out.
Definitely is larger, very visible and it's mandrel bent instead of OEM crimped up
Some said Flowmaster makes only 2.5", and probably that's what I have. It came with no donut gasket, and I bought new ones at part store, but if the header of motor has 2.25 they might be same size, I don't think it's a big deal since it's only 1/2" thick
Following the line we have a header with 2.25" outlet, donut gasket at 2.25, crossover at 2.50, another gasket at 2.25 turbo inlet at 2.25.
The most benefit I've got was more exhaust pressure at turbo, instead of loosing it in the engine compartment.

I

EEEPPP! Absolutely did not realize we have a bowtie AND a bowtie65 on here..........:o:

Went back and changed that misnomer.

My apologies for any........er......inconvenience(s).;)

heat drives the turbine equalling quicker spool up. so in theory a 2.25" crossover is the perfect fit for these trucks considering that they are choked down at the header - donut gasket area. i could see a defenite advantage with a mandrell bent 2.25" x-over compared to a stock crinkled up 2.25" x-over. smoother flow = quicker spool up. am i right about this or what?

How 'bout a mandrel bent exhaust header with 2.5" outlets.

that would be awesome QM.

If you're going to make headers you might as well put the turbo over the engine and not have a crossover.

EEEPPP! Absolutely did not realize we have a bowtie AND a bowtie65 on here..........:o:

Went back and changed that misnomer.

My apologies for any........er......inconvenience(s).;)
ERRRrrr what did I miss ?????:lol:

I didn't realize there was two bowties either! I though Bowtie just became a steelers fan and changed his avatar :confuzeld

AWWWWW yuck the steelers ? :joke: :lol: :cool2:

sorry about using bowtie but i have been using bowtie65 for a long time now. i just recently became a member here but i was a member of that other diesel site and used bowtie65 over there for a long time. this site is way cooler and at least you guys know who the steelers are. weather you like them or not.

What are the Steelers ? I thought they were businesses that sells a specific brand of vehicles, like Chevrolet steeler, Dodge steeler, Ford steeler...... :D

sorry about using bowtie but i have been using bowtie65 for a long time now. i just recently became a member here but i was a member of that other diesel site and used bowtie65 over there for a long time. this site is way cooler and at least you guys know who the steelers are. weather you like them or not.
You have got to be glad that everyone noticed that we are not each other. :lol:
And sorry about the confusion we caused everyone. :rant:

So it seems that the $37 pmd's are a no brainer, but starting from stock where can I find a harness long enough to remote mount the pmd somewhere cool, like below the radiator? Do I just need the pmd (same as fsd?) and harness?

I have a 94 chevy 6.5 turbo.
Thanks, Paul

So it seems that the $37 pmd's are a no brainer, but starting from stock where can I find a harness long enough to remote mount the pmd somewhere cool, like below the radiator? Do I just need the pmd (same as fsd?) and harness?

I have a 94 chevy 6.5 turbo.
Thanks, Paul\

You can buy plug in units fron Heath or Kennedy ~$90.
You can splice in your own extension on the OEM connector to the PMD for a fraction of the cost.