I'm having internittent stalling issues, just like when the last PMD went, about two years ago. Mine's mounted on a remote cooler on the inner fender well (I know, everybody says get it outside the engine bay, at the time I thought the fender well was a good idea). Two problems going on. I recently had a couple soldered wires from my homemade harness deteriorate and seperate, which resulted in me doing some rewiring, splicing and soldering on the side of the road to get up and running again. So I thought I had it licked. But it's acting up again, runs ten seconds and dies, after a few cycles of that it will stay running. All my connections appear intact, but who knows how the quality of the connection is, I mean as far as current flow. No way of knowing if the PMD is still good, and the wiring is weak, or if the PMD is giving out. Planning in moving it to the back of the bumper, but I was waiting until I put the body lift in before messing with it.
Other problem is that after doing injectors I have had a couple return line leaks, and have one again. I can't get at it or see it, so the miserable GD heat shield has to come out again. So my question is this: could I be sucking air or losing fuel pressure somehow, causing the stalling, or am I looking at another PMD?
Wish this had happened a week ago instead of waiting until a few days before a camping trip.

"Runs ten seconds and dies" I don't think PMD are that predictable, sounds like sucking air, or something else.

Return line leaks wont' cause stalling or air-suction issues. If you are concerned about air in fuel issues, put a piece of clear tubing just before the IP and look for bubbles. If your LP is working fine, your IP won't be able to suck in air because in-line fuel pressure will be higher than IP demand.

How is your Lift Pump?

I replaced the lift pump a couple years ago, when I had all the PMD problems. This morning I went out and started it, kept dying after (approximately) ten seconds. Would sometimes take two tries to get it restarted, sometimes it would just crank. Went to look at the soldered connections again, but before I touched them I decided to try something different, to nail it down. I plugged my spare PMD in, started the truck and drove it all the way to work without touching a wire and without having a problem. So, I think my PMD is bad already.
I think I'm going to order one of the new D-techs, only problem is I can't get one shipped to me before I leave on my camping trip. So, I'll be crossing my fingers and probably swapping PMDs back and forth to make the trip.
Next I'll be moving the cooler from the inner fender well to the bumper. At the time that's where it was recommended to put it, and it seemed to me like getting it away from the engine would be good enough. What I didn't realize is that the PMD makes it's own heat, which is why it probably cooked itself.
I don't know if I'll be able to fix the fuel leak, it's pretty minor but, on the other hand I'd just as soon not burn my truck to the ground. Not on the way to the campground anyway. Maybe on the way home would be okay, since it's insured pretty well. ;> Just kidding, although it might be a tough decision to make whether to go into the toolbox for my fire extinguisher...

Another casualties of PMD in inner fender is good enough. GET IT OUT OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. I hope people are reading this thread.

Sounds like you are loosing your prime after you shut the truck down. Thats why it runs for 10 seconds then dies.

Sounds like you are loosing your prime after you shut the truck down. Thats why it runs for 10 seconds then dies.


Not if it's the PMD that is the problem...