Not sure but I'm considering converting my '06 LBZ to WVO with a Goldenfuelsystems kit. Local bar is giving me there oil. About ten gallons a week. Would need about 25 a week for all my needs. Im concerned about engine longevity. Anyone have any experience with WVO.

Thanks.

Try and read through some of the posts on here or do a search! There are a lot of posts on this issue. ;)

I just got my Suburban back today from having a Goldenfuel conversion done. I only had time to put a few miles on it but seems to be running great, system is working fine. I'll report back after a few hundred miles.

i have been running a wvo and 10% gas blend in my lbz for about 30,000 miles and my injector balance rates are better tthen when i bought the truck if that says anything

Not sure but I'm considering converting my '06 LBZ to WVO with a Goldenfuelsystems kit. Local bar is giving me there oil. About ten gallons a week. Would need about 25 a week for all my needs. Im concerned about engine longevity. Anyone have any experience with WVO.

Thanks.

Ten gal per week is a great start, just because you used twenty five doesnt make it a bad deal and it's free.
Ten gal. is like 40-45% of what your using thus cutting down the money you have to give to the local gas station.
Plus all you need to do is find one or two more place to pick up some more WVO and your set.

I just got my Suburban back today from having a Goldenfuel conversion done. I only had time to put a few miles on it but seems to be running great, system is working fine. I'll report back after a few hundred miles.

what is your location ?
who did the conversion ?
do you have pics ?

With your post I noticed that I never wrote a follow-up, so I'll answer your question at the same time.

I'm in Concord, NH. A local mechanic with some experience doing conversions did mine, working with Goldenfuel on the parts and procedure. I think he did an excellent job on it, there may be a few tweaks needed but that should be expected in my opinion.

I've got maybe 1,500 miles on using the wvo. It runs very well, switchover between diesel and wvo is a flick of a switch, otherwise you wouldn't notice the changeover at all. My only issue so far is at high load, like heading up a hill on the highway at 70 mph, I'll get a few misses. I put a fuel pressure gauge on it and I think the lift pump pressure is just dropping a bit too low under load, so I have a new Heath lift pump to put in to see if it corrects the problem.

We haven't had any cold weather yet, I'll see if it continues to perform well once the temps get lower this fall. I'll give it a longer warmup time before the switchover as it gets colder. I don't have any pics, will try to take some this week.

IMHO, running WVO on an LBZ without tuning the ECM calibration tables is risky. The LBZ smoke badly on WVO when idling. This indicates an excessive amount of unburnt fuel. If there is unburnt fuel, that means there is fuel that drips down to your crankcase oil, causing quick degradation of your engine oil. If this is ignored, it will cause your crankcase oil to polymerize causing lubrication failure and eventually engine failure. Not to mention the accelerated coking of your piston rings.

The above risk is compounded by the fact that in LBZ tuning, power is provided by massive increase in injected fuel. If your WVO is not hot enough, you will not be able to properly atomize this injected fuel, thereby further increasing your coking risks. I believe it is important to properly heat your WVO. I heat mine to over 280F before it reaches the common rail. IMO, the GFS system won't cut it because it does not heat the fuel enough.

If you want to run WVO, IMHO, you need to tune the ECM tables to make sure you are burning the WVO completely. You also need to heat your WVO to at least over 240F. Furthermore, you need to filter your WVO to sub-micron levels using a Centrifuge.

The above opinion is from using WVO for over 40,000 miles and logging all my engine parameters during that period. I believe that unless you can do your conversion properly, it is just too risky to run WVO on these Duramaxes. Specially with those flaky and expensive injectors.

But, what do I know. Ignore my advice at your own peril.

If your WVO is not hot enough, you will not be able to properly atomize this injected fuel, thereby further increasing your coking risks. I believe it is important to properly heat your WVO. I heat mine to over 280F before it reaches the common rail. IMO, the GFS system won't cut it because it does not heat the fuel enough.

Well said, I agree with your comments though I don't know anything about LBZ's. I don't know if you really need 280 degrees but its clear it needs to be hot to approach the viscosity of diesel, from my research 180 degrees is what I was looking for.

I'm trying to figure out how to put an inline temp gauge either just before or just after the IP. I have the heated fuel pickup, heated fuel filter, and heated fuel line, then go through the stock fuel filter which gets quite hot nested in behind the intake manifold. What I don't know is what temp the fuel is at as it reaches the IP and the injectors, which is the pertinent info. I suppose an inline gauge just after the lift pump might tell the story, but would like to have it closer to the IP.

JojoJaro, how do get your WVO to 280. I am going to build a system using a hot fox in the tank, heated WVO lines, heated WVO filter, hot plate heat exchanger, and maybe an electric fuel line heater right before the IP. I was hoping to get the WVO up to about 180. I agree the hotter the better and you should have no problems. Can you give us some info on the components of your system. Thanks.

That's gotta be a typo. He must mean 180.

I converted my 2006 at 10K miles now have 70K flawless miles on WVO. Runs great. The key is filtration of your VO I filter mine to the same ISO code as Dino out of the pump. If you can't do that I would not do it. It will be the downfall of a d max dirty fuel. Good luck

I converted my 2006 at 10K miles now have 70K flawless miles on WVO. Runs great. The key is filtration of your VO I filter mine to the same ISO code as Dino out of the pump. If you can't do that I would not do it. It will be the downfall of a d max dirty fuel. Good luck

Can you tell me how you filter your oil to this standard? I'm just getting started doing research on a WVO conversion. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 2006 LBZ

Thanks,
Rob

http://www.pabiodieselsupply.com/ They sell the most cost effective centrifuges I have found. If you are handy you can get a power steering pump and an electric motor to make your own pump.

Also check out their videos they have a lot of good info in them.

I have the PA... centrifuge and splurged for the electric motor and pump. I'm failing the hot pan test unless I shut down the centrifuge and clean it out every 2-3 minutes. Bad source of oil? Then again I'm using a turkey fryer as a heating tank. Settleing only does so much but the centrifuge WILL do the rest. I hope to have the truck running this week. Maybe tonight if it dosen't rain.

I heat up the oil in my processor to 180 to 220 and bubble air up though it. A paper towel in the vent helps hold heat in and once it is dry you know the oil is dry. I filter the oil to 20 microns before I put it in the processor tank, then recirculate it through a 5 micron bag filter at 110F, then I dry as per above. Dry air is the key to this process.

I do this to make bio, but would probably still do this if I kept it oil. I would just use a barrel (Holds more) and while the oil was hot bubble air through it and run the CF at the same time. Two birds with one stone kinda thing.

Two cinder blocks, a 55 gal barrel, and a turkey burner is how I heat my oil to filter it down to 20 microns for the processor. I pour the oil into the barrel through some big bag filters to get it down to 25-50 microns. Then pump it to the processor through a 20 micron filter.