So... I know I for one am still interested in where things go with the LBZ mouthpiece mod for the LLY engines. I understand there were several reasons for closing the prior thread... but I for one have no axe to grind there. I'm just interested in the topic of figuring out how to get the LBZ mouthpiece fitted to the LLY engine and airbox/intake, and any related mods to the mp required for better air flow and/or getting the thing to fit.

I also understand it appears that GM is either out of stock on these or playing with VIN numbers to artificially constrict the supply of these things. Several guys have reported a price of $77 +/-, while others claim a price of $215 or so.

I think it would be appropriate to start with a post of the part number, prices, etc... to be followed up with personal DIY stories, details, etc. on how to make these things fit, what they benefits are, etc.

Feel free to chime in, fellas... :D

Yeah, absolutely. Anyone have the P/N for that mouth piece?

GM Parts Direct
Part: 98011738*
Category: All
Description: DUCT
Min.Qty: 1
Unit Price: $68.52
Quantity: 1
Ext.Price: $68.52
Core Charge: $0.00

Also, im a little confused on what is to be "dremeled"?

Do you do the plastic LBZ part? OR Do you do the turo intake (cast steel) part???

i guess to grind down the plastic rib on the bottom of the mouth piece that hits the EGR in order to prevent the top of the LBZ mouthpiece from rubbing on the hood

I think it's also to smooth out any casting corners and excess stuff inside the MP too...

Speaking of which... I think I heard that KB roughens the inside of his MP to improve air flow - IIRC someone said that the idea was similar to golf ball dimples...?

Does anyone out here have any such experience and willing to enlighten the rest of us on this topic? Or is it all smoke and mirrors?

Thought a pic of what we are trying to accomplish would be appropriate
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u242/Grizwald2/KBsLBZIntake.jpg

Great pic thanks. So can we get this part or is it still B/O?

The picture is GREAT! But I think some of the questions still need to be clarified...and the ones that have done this if we could get all your your help all of us that does not have it done would be much greatful! :D

If you can fill in the blanks with an X in Yes or NO and spell out where in the blanks with pictures if you have them, would be sweet!!!!

1 Do we grind the outside of the LBZ MP?
YES____? If YES, where_____? pictures if you can.
NO_____. OK, good now know.

2. Do we grind the outside of the LBZ MP?
YES____? If YES, where_____? pictures if you can.
NO_____. OK, good now know.

3. Do we grind the inside of the turbo inlet where the NEW LBZ MP plastic attaches to, the cast steel inside?
YES____? If YES, where_____? pictures if you can.
NO_____. OK, good now know.

4. Dimple the inside of the, plastic LBZ part or the turbo inlet?
YES____? If YES, where_____? pictures if you can.
NO_____. OK, good now know.

Thank you for thoes who have done this and have helped make this a successfull mod! :beerchug::clap:):h





Thought a pic of what we are trying to accomplish would be appropriate
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u242/Grizwald2/KBsLBZIntake.jpg

I wonder if a LMM MP would be in better supply and does it fit similar to the LBZ MP???

I've ordered KB's Induction Overhaul Kit with the modified LBZ mouthpiece for $295 + shipping. He said it will probably take 30 days to complete the order due to backordered parts.

I'll have more info for you once the kit is delivered & installed.

I ordered a LBZ mouthpiece from partszone. With shipping has cost $87. Dealer wanted $155 plus shipping. I also came across a stock LBZ intake box and tubing on craigslist from someone who got an aftermarket intake for their LBZ. He wanted $50, but ended up just giving it to me... way cool of him. I hope to install it all this week. Will take some pics and post... was wondering though, if anyone would know if I still need to have the reflash even with the fingerstick install.... any help would be great.

yeah any info would be great

bump...

The picture is GREAT! But I think some of the questions still need to be clarified...and the ones that have done this if we could get all your your help all of us that does not have it done would be much greatful! :D

If you can fill in the blanks with an X in Yes or NO and spell out where in the blanks with pictures if you have them, would be sweet!!!!

1 Do we grind the outside of the LBZ MP?
YES____? If YES, where_____? pictures if you can.
NO_____. OK, good now know.

2. Do we grind the outside of the LBZ MP?
YES____? If YES, where_____? pictures if you can.
NO_____. OK, good now know.

3. Do we grind the inside of the turbo inlet where the NEW LBZ MP plastic attaches to, the cast steel inside?
YES____? If YES, where_____? pictures if you can.
NO_____. OK, good now know.

4. Dimple the inside of the, plastic LBZ part or the turbo inlet?
YES____? If YES, where_____? pictures if you can.
NO_____. OK, good now know.

Thank you for thoes who have done this and have helped make this a successfull mod! :beerchug::clap:):h

I ordered a LBZ mouthpiece from partszone. With shipping has cost $87. Dealer wanted $155 plus shipping. I also came across a stock LBZ intake box and tubing on craigslist from someone who got an aftermarket intake for their LBZ. He wanted $50, but ended up just giving it to me... way cool of him. I hope to install it all this week. Will take some pics and post... was wondering though, if anyone would know if I still need to have the reflash even with the fingerstick install.... any help would be great.

The MAF (mass airflow sensor) calculations/tables in the ECU needs to be recalibrated to adjust for the differing cross sectional area of the LBZ intake. You will need to have a reflash at the dealer

I ported my stock LLY MP today until I can get my hands on a LBZ one and re-routed my PCV while I was in there. Truck def. has better throttle response now. I'll be taking my TH to a race tuesday evening, we'll see how it helped towing wise then.

I also modified my LLY mouthpiece, and it made a big difference in throttle response. My mpg's are a little better, noticed more of a difference when I blocked egr, re routed PCV, and 4" straight pipe.

Today Saturday I made a run from L.A. to Baker, CA and it was pretty warm 108º - 112ºF:weld::eek:. A/C on all the way and my fan came on 3-4 times :mad:. My IATs were approx. 7-10ºF hotter than OAT. I guess its time to put the stock air filter and maybe a TxC cold air or KBs. I was towing a Nissan Altima on my way back and managed to get a bit over 17 mpg - 354 miles round trip and about 20.3 gallons. My previous fill was 23gallons and 434 miles of mixed bumper to bumper and 2 evenings of no traffic (approx. 80 miles).

What's the difference in product in terms of the cold air intake kit between KB and TxC ???

I ordered the LBZ MP from GM Parts got canceled.
Reordered thru Partsdirect, they sent an e-mail asking for the VIN to try and expedite. I sent them my VIN with the 8th digit adjusted to "3".

In the mean time I ported the LLY MP this weekend. Nothing big to report. Will know more on the next tank of gas.

I also made my own cold are intake. I packed foam around the airbox opening. Moved the foil covering the inner fender to block the long hole down lower, made an aluminum plate to block off more fender openings from the rest of engine bay. Now the inner fender is completely isolated, and plenty of openings to supply air to the box. Its not pretty but if it works I'll clean it up.

The goal is not to have he fan run. I towed my ~8000lbs toy hauler from Quartzite to Phoenix (120miles) with the fan on the whole time. It was 106 degrees, and at 65mph it averaged 9.5mpg.

A tip for DIY - er's:

Flexible couplings for plumbing piping are made of elastomeric PVC; a material that has a maximum operating temperature of 140 degrees.

You may wish to keep an eye on the coupling for heat damage if you use one.

page 12:

http://www.fernco.com/docs/PlumbingCoupling.pdf

:)

A tip for DIY - er's:

Flexible couplings for plumbing piping are made of elastomeric PVC; a material that has a maximum operating temperature of 140 degrees.

You may wish to keep an eye on the coupling for heat damage if you use one.

page 12:

http://www.fernco.com/docs/PlumbingCoupling.pdf

:)

Good point.
Use a silicone coupler instead. They even come in blue to match the intercooler couplers.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400287+315954+115&autoview=sku

What's the difference in product in terms of the cold air intake kit between KB and TxC ???


Sounds like you'll need more than just the CAI towing in those temps. Better look at TX's CAI and V2 set up.

Tx's CAI kit modifies the stock air box to bring in cold air and costs $65.00. KB's kit is a modified LLY air intake with box mod and ported mouthpiece and costs around $295.00.

I ported mine this weekend. Made a 350 mile trip but truck was not full when I left so no report in mileage. Once off it was pretty easy to see the stock mouthpiece is restrictive. My DIC gave me pretty good readings but I never go off that as my Predator inflates it anyway. Seems a little more reponsive. We'll see. My LBZ MP is on order.

I ported mine this weekend. Made a 350 mile trip but truck was not full when I left so no report in mileage. Once off it was pretty easy to see the stock mouthpiece is restrictive. My DIC gave me pretty good readings but I never go off that as my Predator inflates it anyway. Seems a little more reponsive. We'll see. My LBZ MP is on order.


Cna you tell me what you ported? the plastic part? or the steel part of the turbo?

Cna you tell me what you ported? the plastic part? or the steel part of the turbo?


:eek: DON'T GRIND YOUR TURBO. You grind the sharp corners off inside the plastic mouthpiece. Radius all the sharp corners as much as possible without breaking through.

:eek: DON'T GRIND YOUR TURBO. You grind the sharp corners off inside the plastic mouthpiece. Radius all the sharp corners as much as possible without breaking through.


OH! Thanks for the heads up! :eek: :eek:

Lets post this link again for those who didn't see it before.

http:*********.***.net**************************** *********************

I think that link is the reason the first post on this subject was closed.

What about this one...at the bottom of the page???? I have no clue what they cost...

http://www.*********.com/********.htm

I think that link is the reason the first post on this subject was closed.


Nahh, the link was up from day one on the other thread. I think it got a little out of control and got closed. We'll play nice.

What about this one...at the bottom of the page???? I have no clue what they cost...

http://www.opieparts.com/Products.htm


I'm curious about this one too... Anyone have any knowledge on this one?

I think that link is the reason the first post on this subject was closed.

The last post in the other closed thread:

"Closing this thread due to original poster link. Feel free to restart a new thread without a outside link. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Tony

PM with any questions, somethings are better off board."

The last post in the other closed thread:

"Closing this thread due to original poster link. Feel free to restart a new thread without a outside link. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Tony

PM with any questions, somethings are better off board."

Well, let's play nice and see if they'll let things stand. I agree with PoPs - there was a bit of a food fight in the previous thread. If it was only the link, the mods have the ability to edit any post in any necessary manner... they could have just as easily deleted the link and slapped everyone's hand. But, they chose to shut the thread instead.

I'm curious about this one too... Anyone have any knowledge on this one?

Contacted Opie, and they sold all of theirs to Nathan at MPI, he curently has them out for machining and doesn't have an ETA, price, quantitly available yet, he uses them for his twins so they moght not be for sale

That aluminum intake tube looks cool. It is hard to tell in the picture but it looks like it may have a sharp bend in it too, like the LLY. Hard to tell though. I think the best possible aftermarket designed tube would require the ERG tube and valve to be removed. If not it should at least work with all the aftermarket intake kits. I wonder what particular Duramax engine the tube from Intelligent Engineering is supposed to fit?

My Partsdirect tube got cancelled. So I ordered two more from two other different companies. Maybe I will get one eventually! Probably not...:mad:

I have someone poking into the Garrett Co. to see if we can get this MP from another source besides GM. Anyone interested??

I have someone poking into the Garrett Co. to see if we can get this MP from another source besides GM. Anyone interested??

If the price is right... I'd say there'd be a huge interest.

The last thread was closed because with out the original posted link it made no sense to new comers to that thread. I edited the links in this thread again, but please, lets stay away from that site and the former member running it.

I understand it's permissable to provide the information about the LBZ MP retrofit kit via PM. Let me know and I'll PM the link to you. :)

I also received an order canceled from GM PARTS DIRECT.
My parts guy at the dealer told me the reason for all of that was because Isuzu canceled (or suspended, or revoked, or something) GM's right or license to sell parts for the Duramax. All parts for the Duramax would have to be ordered from Isuzu through your dealer. The parts would not be released until September.
I don't know, I'm just sharing what the dealer parts guy told me.

I also received an order canceled from GM PARTS DIRECT.
My parts guy at the dealer told me the reason for all of that was because Isuzu canceled (or suspended, or revoked, or something) GM's right or license to sell parts for the Duramax. All parts for the Duramax would have to be ordered from Isuzu through your dealer. The parts would not be released until September.
I don't know, I'm just sharing what the dealer parts guy told me.


:mad: just frustraiting :mad:

Stevebos:
Thanks for the info on the "plumbing" coupler. That's what I used with my LBZ inlet. A temp of only 140 F would have likely caused problems and a person sure don't want to wipe out a turbo. Fortunately only made one short unloaded trip with the truck. Got the "plumbing" coupler off and have a silicone coupler on.
Will be taking the truck and 5th wheel into the mountains in a couple weeks. Then a person will see how everything works, hopefully for the better.
Once again, thanks everybody for the info. Any questions, feel free to ask.

I work at gm parts warehouse and tried to order LBZ MP, we stock 65,000+ part numbers but not that one. Was told that is a dealer only part, see your local dealer!!!

I have someone poking into the Garrett Co. to see if we can get this MP from another source besides GM. Anyone interested??

Very interested... Lets get a price on it!!

Stevebos:
Thanks for the info on the "plumbing" coupler. That's what I used with my LBZ inlet. A temp of only 140 F would have likely caused problems and a person sure don't want to wipe out a turbo. Fortunately only made one short unloaded trip with the truck. Got the "plumbing" coupler off and have a silicone coupler on.
Will be taking the truck and 5th wheel into the mountains in a couple weeks. Then a person will see how everything works, hopefully for the better.
Once again, thanks everybody for the info. Any questions, feel free to ask.


What coupler are you refering to? where did you get a silicone one? if you have a part number post it.

Good point.
Use a silicone coupler instead. They even come in blue to match the intercooler couplers.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400287+315954+115&autoview=sku

What coupler are you refering to? where did you get a silicone one? if you have a part number post it.

I think he was refering to this. Steiberg55 Good find! Thanks:D

I also received an order canceled from GM PARTS DIRECT.
My parts guy at the dealer told me the reason for all of that was because Isuzu canceled (or suspended, or revoked, or something) GM's right or license to sell parts for the Duramax. All parts for the Duramax would have to be ordered from Isuzu through your dealer. The parts would not be released until September.
I don't know, I'm just sharing what the dealer parts guy told me.

I have someone poking into the Garrett Co. to see if we can get this MP from another source besides GM. Anyone interested??

Well... with that development, I'd bet there is a lot more interest than yesterday... :rolleyes:

For all those following from the first thread "seen this yet" (part 1 for those just now chiming in.)

I have a few results from the new install. I did some modifications from my original DYI, as some have stated above. Seen in Pic one, the part of the LLY intake pipe that has the turbo warning message on it before going into the mouthpiece, i cut in front of it (towards the airbox) so it would pipe through a little better. The only downside is, the LLY pipe in that section no longer fits inside of the LBZ MP(like it did in Pic 2).

The LLY piping fits better, but now i am relying on the 4" clamp to hold it together; because now the way the pipe is cut, the LBZ MP and the LLY intake pipe are of the same diameter. Will it help with the way air goes in? who knows but i liked the way it was before because the LLY pipe fit snug into the LBZ MP, and i just relied on the rubber clamp to hold the two together. Either way i think its fine. The 4" rubber clamp is a little sloppy, still an airtight seal, but something a little smaller would work even better.

As for the results, as i stated earlier on EFILive i logged a bunch of WOT runs from a rolling 30 or 40 to 90 or 100 and from a dead stop.

With the LLY MP i saw nothing over 24PSI.

After the install just messing around in town i was seeing jumps to 26PSI (on EFI, not on the mechanical). I havent done any serious logging in the after yet...but the jump on the screen was a proof difference for me. I didnt really feel anything different, maybe because i run a dsp5 and have my tunes all over the place, but all these stated results are from the same tune.

Furthermore, My smoke tune which i dont hold for long, because the turbo will spool up and reck my tranny, i can no longer hold as long as i used to because the turbo spools up faster (smoking out tailgaters is HARDER!) I've gone from limping the tranny once in 3 months, to twice this week. The spool up is MUCH faster.

As for temps, this is where I spent a some time logging.

I don't know anything about the infamous LLY overheat nor do i want to start an arguement over it. I have a CCSB along with everything else in my sig, and all over my tests were done riding solo, no towing, all with the same tune.

With the LLY MP in place, i logged 70 MPH for at least a half hour on flat ground with the cruise on for each log (im in FL and i spend a lot of time on the highway without traffic) so the results seemed pretty consistent. I did two additional other logs, one at 80 mph and one fluxuating between 70, 75, and 80 MPH. Keep in mind in summer in FL and the intake temps were anywhere between 86 degrees and 105 degrees and the results seemed to stay the same between these intake temps.

At 70 MPH my ECT was 192 degrees. At 75 MPH it would flux sometimes 192 to 194 degrees and at 80 MPH it would hold a steady 194 degrees. This is all with A/C off. With the A/C on, it seemed to be no less than 194 at 70MPH and a constant 196 degrees at 75 to 80 MPH. Truthfully, i didnt focus a lot of the logging with the A/C on.

As for the after conditions: I dont have a report back on mileage, i have been traveling for work and it has been different than my normal driving so the rusults would have been skewed, so TBD on the mileage.

As for the after condition on temps, i did some highway driving in the heat of the day with the same speeds. No serious logging yet but this is what ive seen so far. At 70MPH ive seen fluxuations between 187 and 189 degrees never going over 189. even at 80MPH the highest i saw was 190 with the A/C off.

I know these arent huge improvements in temp, but they are definitely in the right direction. As stated in the article about the MP switch (which i am only going by what was stated and have no proof of my own). The benefits of the change in MP become greater when there is a larger load on the engine and a greater boost is desired or commanded. Obviously, for all you guys out there towing at 70 or even less, you are asking for a lot more boost and power; thus, possibly reaping even more benefit from mod.

Although i have no idea if the results would be synergistic, I would assume so. Riding empty with my 160 LB ass in the seat, i only command between 1 and never more than 2.5 PSI of boost at the above stated speeds on my tests. My after condition tests are not solid yet; but again, going in the right direction.

I wouldnt expect anyone to take my results as any type of profound discovery:duh:, just a single independent test on my truck. I hope it helps give some insight for everyone out there.

(the pics are not attaching, they are pics 9 and 10 in the previous thread for all those doing the DIY)

marc23760, Thanks for taking the time to enlighten us. Sounds good to me. Now if I could just get the dang MP:mad:

marc23760, Thanks for taking the time to enlighten us. Sounds good to me. Now if I could just get the dang MP:mad:

No problem, glad to post some results.

Start PM'ing guys with twins on the LBZ! I like the direction you all are taking on going to Garrett directly. There is nothing like cutting out a middleman like GM...

I have someone poking into the Garrett Co. to see if we can get this MP from another source besides GM. Anyone interested??

I'm in!

Hello mnnmaz:
Got a 4" i.d. by 6" long silicone turbo coupler from my local Bumper to Bumper store.
I shortened my stock LLY intake tube (like Marc 23760) and used the silicone coupler to connect the LBZ inlet and the shortened LLY tube. I still use the stock "sealed off" LLY air box (have a seperate 3" air duct going into it), so the everything just connects nicely. Any further info required, please feel free to ask.

I wonder if a LMM MP would be in better supply and does it fit similar to the LBZ MP???


SAME PART

I'm in!


x3

I work at gm parts warehouse and tried to order LBZ MP, we stock 65,000+ part numbers but not that one. Was told that is a dealer only part, see your local dealer!!!
I'm interested!

if u guys find em.... i'll take one..... Mike

Milage update (another tankful) with new Turbo mouthpiece (KB Intake OverHaul kit): 19.6 mpg (down a little, but I did tow the camper from storage to the house ....)

Still 1.9 mpg better than prior multi-tank average.

Towing - did not need as much pedal to maintain speed. I will provide more details when we actually tow a distance.

This modification definitely saves fuel .... and diesel was locally down to $4.49 (30 cent drop in the last week ....)

For those that want to do some more research, here is a google serach:

http://www.******.com/************************************************** ************************************************** **************************************

Lets post this link again for those who didn't see it before.

http:*********.***.net**************************** *********************


OOPS, I've been a bad boy. :bawl:

My order through GM Parts Direct got cancelled alst week, so if we can get them from Garrett I want one.

Please do not link directly or indirectly to Killer Bee.

Have not put it all together yet but will take pics and such when I do. Since I had an intake already for my truck didn't want to spend another 4 bills on a new one to fit the LBZ elbow. So decided to build one out of exhaust pipes, the parts I used to make it are (1) 4" 90 degree elbow expanded on one end, (1) 4" 90 degree elbow with no expanded ends and a small sectionof 4" pipe to fill the gap between the elbows. The expanded end fit perfect into the K&N filter and the unexpanded end was a good match to the LBZ elbow that's what sold me on the idea. Of course you have to make a spot for the MAF sensor which is not that hard my idea idea is to use a piece a square steel about a1/4" or 3/8" thick and put the 2" radius on the back side and weld it to the tube.

Like I said will post pics when I get it all together and part numbers and where to get them for those may want to build their own

Well, I contacted Opie too and the story is the same - MPI bought all of his remaining stock... plus he opined that he had experimented with the MP and there was no noticeable difference.

I still think there may be merit to this whole topic... so I'm with the others - discussing directly with Garrett seems to be a good way to go.

And fellas... please listen to the mods. I don't want this thread closed for unacceptable references to he who shall not be named...

has someone actually talked to someone at Garrett yet? any info?

has someone actually talked to someone at Garrett yet? any info?

Gauging interest, I have a contact, it appears that about 7 people are interested. I needed closer to 50. I am going to talk to my contact about a quantity of 10.

I am not selling this as a business, I am just attempting to help solve a need for those here, so what I pay and how I do it, will be the same as everyone else here. When/if this comes to fruition, I will work with one of the mods, to not break the rules, yet get the info out. My contact isnt interested in starting and internet sales gig either.

Make that 8. I'd be interested also since my order was cancelled.

I would probably be interested, might have a line on a used one, but nothing for sure yet.

So this guy at Garrett is going to get some pieces made?

I'd be interested too....depending on price of course :)

Gauging interest, I have a contact, it appears that about 7 people are interested. I needed closer to 50. I am going to talk to my contact about a quantity of 10.

I am not selling this as a business, I am just attempting to help solve a need for those here, so what I pay and how I do it, will be the same as everyone else here. When/if this comes to fruition, I will work with one of the mods, to not break the rules, yet get the info out. My contact isnt interested in starting and internet sales gig either.

How much for 50 of them? I can gateway these to people here without issue obviously. Gimme a call.

I am still looking at creating a whole new piece that stomps the LBZ one but I wouldn't mind helping people get these right now since they seem to want them.

I am also interested in the mouthpiece.

How much for 50 of them? I can gateway these to people here without issue obviously. Gimme a call.

I am still looking at creating a whole new piece that stomps the LBZ one but I wouldn't mind helping people get these right now since they seem to want them.


Have you started on design yet???

I just had our parts guy call... I didn't read the thread so this may be old news....

October 2nd is the planned date for them to be available.

Current Part Number is 98011738

I was hoping to go in and order 10 but that didn't happen... sorry fellas.

LMM Mouthpiece

quite a bit more expensive

No stock available - October 2nd

part # 98003367

If my order gets cancelled I'm in.

Have you started on design yet???

I have been figuring on it for a while, need to go ahead and move on it. Had a discussion today with a friend about it as well. I will try to go ahead and make progress, if the design I have been creating in my head pans out it will make the LBZ one seem like a joke. :D

I have been figuring on it for a while, need to go ahead and move on it. Had a discussion today with a friend about it as well. I will try to go ahead and make progress, if the design I have been creating in my head pans out it will make the LBZ one seem like a joke. :D


Well, come on then,, get to it!!! :D

Well, come on then,, get to it!!! :D

Just try to keep the target price under a thousand bucks... my wife is ready to kill me...

):hCensored:help::crazy:

Just try to keep the target price under a thousand bucks... my wife is ready to kill me...

):hCensored:help::crazy:


How about 100 bucks. a grand is way to much for what i think your getting.... unless you get some crazy results in reduced heat, masive HP and the truck can last 2x as long then I can wait for the LBZ MP for less then 100 bucks. JMO

How about 100 bucks. a grand is way to much for what i think your getting.... unless you get some crazy results in reduced heat, masive HP and the truck can last 2x as long then I can wait for the LBZ MP for less then 100 bucks. JMO


lbz mouthpieces won't be $70 come october second.

I'm sure they will superced to the LMM number which is considerably higher.

just an fyi, i did mine last night. it worked out well. little wiggling and few of the usuall ****, shit, mother ****ers, but it went in. i also while in there upgraded the aif filter and intake tube to the lbz as i saw no point in mickey mousing my s&b cai to make it work. i have to update my maf tables in efi live to compensate for the amount of air now, but i think it will be much better. one thing i did notice was during light throttle and low load situations my egt were down by atleast 100*. i am going to do some testing on this tonight hopefully and i will report back. the size differance between the lly and lbz intake system is unbeleivable until you have them side by side.

as far as programming goes i don tthink you need to do anything if you are just replacing the mouth piece. it is only if you do the air filter. and air box.

just an fyi, i did mine last night. it worked out well. little wiggling and few of the usuall ****, shit, mother ****ers, but it went in. i also while in there upgraded the aif filter and intake tube to the lbz as i saw no point in mickey mousing my s&b cai to make it work. i have to update my maf tables in efi live to compensate for the amount of air now, but i think it will be much better. one thing i did notice was during light throttle and low load situations my egt were down by atleast 100*. i am going to do some testing on this tonight hopefully and i will report back. the size differance between the lly and lbz intake system is unbeleivable until you have them side by side.

as far as programming goes i don tthink you need to do anything if you are just replacing the mouth piece. it is only if you do the air filter. and air box.

so, how much for the S+B intake ?
:D

Stacks: Any photos?

My order was cancelled today also so count me in.

Not sure if this helps you guys or not. I called around today and found the part numbers to the mouthpiece on my truck.

97376377

Then, in 2006, Chevy changed to part number.

98011736

The difference is, they go on a Kodiak and do not have the "Resonator" like you guys have in your trucks. I honestly don't know if they are different other than the lack of the resonator...since I have not seen them side by side.

Then, in 2006, Chevy changed to part number.

98011736

The difference is, they go on a Kodiak and do not have the "Resonator" like you guys have in your trucks. I honestly don't know if they are different other than the lack of the resonator...since I have not seen them side by side.


i can get these !


Anybody got a pic? Is it the same?

Not sure if this helps you guys or not. I called around today and found the part numbers to the mouthpiece on my truck.

97376377

Then, in 2006, Chevy changed to part number.

98011736

The difference is, they go on a Kodiak and do not have the "Resonator" like you guys have in your trucks. I honestly don't know if they are different other than the lack of the resonator...since I have not seen them side by side.

hhmmmmm... Anyone know if they are the same less the resonator opening?

Like I said..I have not seen them side by side. But I am guessing that the 06 part number 98011736 is the LBZ. If someone knows a GM parts guy...it might be a simple thing!

Like I said..I have not seen them side by side. But I am guessing that the 06 part number 98011736 is the LBZ. If someone knows a GM parts guy...it might be a simple thing!

i know a gm parts guy but they don't know... pics don't help - apparently.

I am real tempted to order one.

It's a 5 day deal though....

all we need is a pic of one on someones kodiak....

the part numbers are very very close to each other.

I saw a picture of one but without actually having both of them...I'd hate to say it would be the same piece minus the resonator. Johnny "Gasuout" has been all over his rig. Maybe he would know?????

Kodiak, does yours look like the pictures of the ones in this thread minus the airbox. I am betting that the one from the Kodiak might work and a lot of us have already blocked off the main silencer anyways.

How about 100 bucks. a grand is way to much for what i think your getting.... unless you get some crazy results in reduced heat, masive HP and the truck can last 2x as long then I can wait for the LBZ MP for less then 100 bucks. JMO

Yep - I'm thinking under a hundred bucks too... but the last 2-3 products from TxC have been in the 4-digit range (not that they're not worth it... I just don't have it).

Just :stirthepo

Ordered 4.5" V-band Flange And Trying To Find 4.5" Stainless Donut.already Cut A Vent/scoop Into The Fender And Opened Up The Hole In The Inner Fender.seems To Help Out About 20 Or 30 Mph.

Stacks: Any photos?
i can get some this weekend.

so far i got the updated maf tables in last night and no more codes. the truck seems to pull harder by a bit. other than that i cant compare anything as it poured all day thursday and now is only 63* so i cant get any temp comparisons right now. i will once it warms up again. i still need to work the maf tables to clear up a little more smoke that wasnt there before.

Here's mine on the 04 LLY, I didnt have any trouble getting the LBZ inlet from my dealer, I also installed the Banks Ram Air for the LBZ, I had to do little modifying to make the scoop work with the Ranchhand bumper though. FWIW, the LBZ inlet fit mine perfect, without any modifications since I have deleted the EGR with the PPE delete kit. :D

Update, my Garrett connection has gone "no Longer available" I suspect that is because of the platform change LBZ to LMM.

Kodiak, does yours look like the pictures of the ones in this thread minus the airbox. I am betting that the one from the Kodiak might work and a lot of us have already blocked off the main silencer anyways.

Has anyone made any headway if the kodiak mouthpiece will work? With the resonator already gone, this would be even better!

Has anyone made any headway if the kodiak mouthpiece will work? With the resonator already gone, this would be even better!
Agree!

Patiently waiting, since my GM Part Direct order was cancelled??

Here's mine on the 04 LLY, I didnt have any trouble getting the LBZ inlet from my dealer, I also installed the Banks Ram Air for the LBZ, I had to do little modifying to make the scoop work with the Ranchhand bumper though. FWIW, the LBZ inlet fit mine perfect, without any modifications since I have deleted the EGR with the PPE delete kit. :D

NICE!

First impressions. My DIC says 19 mpg, which it usually says 17.0-17.5 and hand calculated is 15.1-15.6 so it "appears" the mileage is better? Only 45 miles so far.

Tha spooling is slightly faster, just enough to notice. Empty on the freeway.

Boost at cruise seems to be down just a tad, maybe 1 psi at 70 mph, but when I rompt on it boost hit 34 and climbing on my hot tune (approx 200hp) and had never hit more than 30 before. I think I'll have to do some detuning!

EGT's at 70 mph, flat freeway seem to be dow 50-100*

ECT seems to be the same, 200 or just under.

I will report more after the a tankfull and some playing/detuning boost.

I ported my LLY intake the other night with my dremel and some 80grit sandpaper and found the same as dmaxchebby. The engine seems to be free'r and my boost gauge moves better as well. I will still get a LBZ intake when I can, but this is an improvement.

Anyone try ordering one for a LMM..I wonder if they are the same?????

I ported my LLY intake the other night with my dremel and some 80grit sandpaper and found the same as dmaxchebby. The engine seems to be free'r and my boost gauge moves better as well. I will still get a LBZ intake when I can, but this is an improvement.

I also did this to my 4.5 LLY. Ground down the sharp 90 deg corner unitl I was within a 1/16" of an inch of grinding thru. Sanded the entire inside of the MP with 100 grit paper.

Results;
1. Turbo spools up quicker.
2. I can now hit 32 lbs boost where before it would bounce at about 29/30 lbs.
3. Overall EGT is down. At full throttle runs up to 80mph, EGT does not get above 1200 (just gets to 1200 when I get to 80mph). It used to hit 1200 deg pretty easily during full throttle runs.
4. EGT drops down faster once I get off the gas.

I will be checking my MPG over the next 2 weeks.

I would def recommend this mod to any LLY owner. It only took me about 1.5 hours, start to finish.

I had ported my lly elbow as well and noticed a little less egt and a little quicker spool, but not as much as the lbz elbow.

my overall boost and mpg didn't chnage but slightly with the lly modified, but with the lbz, the mileage "looks" like it has gone up quite a bit and my boost is a little out of control at WOT Hot Tune.

Now we're off in three directions and no results. TxC, LMM & Kodiak. Sure would like to do this mod if any solution becomes available.

Very true. Try and get refocused back to one topic only and go from there! This is a good thread!

Off-topic, but I do have my old factory that I reamed/ported for better flow, PM me for a price if anybody wants it.

I pm'ed Nathan from MPI to see if the one off his LMM is the same as a LBZ. Nathan put twins on it a while back so he should have it laying around.

Off topic???? How so?? It seems that the discussion was about trying to improve the mouthpiece of an LLY with a LBZ piece. Now that they have become "unavailable", it would seem to be to be the intelligent thing to find an alternative source.

But if you guys want another 11 pages of people complaining of having their orders canceled, and asking where they can score a LBZ piece.....have at it. I thought we were trying to find a solution.

X2 this is a great thread, with everyone who has a cancelled order its nice to see what everyone is doing to try and improvise.

I too have a LLY MP (unmodifed) that I'm not using so if anyone ruins theirs in trying to modify their own PM me and we can work something out.

Off topic???? How so?? It seems that the discussion was about trying to improve the mouthpiece of an LLY with a LBZ piece. Now that they have become "unavailable", it would seem to be to be the intelligent thing to find an alternative source.

But if you guys want another 11 pages of people complaining of having their orders canceled, and asking where they can score a LBZ piece.....have at it. I thought we were trying to find a solution.

X2, Lets keep an open mind about this and look at ALL the possible solutoins. With the results I got from porting my LLY piece I'm really interested in finding a LBZ or better.

I pm'ed Nathan from MPI to see if the one off his LMM is the same as a LBZ. Nathan put twins on it a while back so he should have it laying around.


Nathan doesn't have any...crap:mad:

Nathan doesn't have any...crap:mad:

different part numbers but i never paid attention to any differences.


If i get an lbz in on monday i will pull it

i have an lmm so i can pull mine if needed. I am confident they are they same but the different part numbers make it odd....

different part numbers but i never paid attention to any differences.


If i get an lbz in on monday i will pull it

i have an lmm so i can pull mine if needed. I am confident they are they same but the different part numbers make it odd....


That is what I was thinking..same part and diff part numbers.

I also did this to my 4.5 LLY. Ground down the sharp 90 deg corner unitl I was within a 1/16" of an inch of grinding thru. Sanded the entire inside of the MP with 100 grit paper.

Results;
1. Turbo spools up quicker.
2. I can now hit 32 lbs boost where before it would bounce at about 29/30 lbs.
3. Overall EGT is down. At full throttle runs up to 80mph, EGT does not get above 1200 (just gets to 1200 when I get to 80mph). It used to hit 1200 deg pretty easily during full throttle runs.
4. EGT drops down faster once I get off the gas.

I will be checking my MPG over the next 2 weeks.

I would def recommend this mod to any LLY owner. It only took me about 1.5 hours, start to finish.

Just did mine. You can tell. It's amazing how a little sharp corner can restrict.

My results (I have no EGT/Boost gauges)

Before, if I would stab it, it would go, then throw you in your seat. Now it's more linear.
Same thing off the line. Before it would go slow, then take off. Now it takes off off the line (Almost turns the tires, but it's kind of hard to when the whole truck wieghs 8050 lbs unladen)
When comming up the hill to my house, the needle would ALWAYS be between the line before 210, or at 210. For the first time, it was at the line before 210.

Also, if I were to VERY slightly touch the throttle when stopped, the truck would shake, till I pushed it more and the rpm's went up. It does not do that anymore.

We'll see how she does on the tank. I went from getting 14 stock, to getting 15.5 with the boost stick and straight pipe. I've never hit 16 in the truck. All hand calculated since the truck is as base model as you can get and doesn't have the DIC feature :)

Probably took me about 45 mins to do. I ended up using a Carbide File on a air grinder. It left the tube pretty smooth and uniform. Just for good measure I sanded and then wet sanded with 120 grit.

I took pics if anyone needs them...

Thanks broseph!

I too would be interested in this mod, as soon as we all can get our hands on one, my buddy has an 06 LBZ and I think tomorrow I might try to trade trucks with him and run to the dealer and see if they don't happen to have a topkick on their lot with the LBZ, and see if it will not work for us....I'll post what I find out.

okay guys, i have an update al be it minor so far, it hit low 80's yesterday and i normally would hit 200* but i never really got it over 180-185. that is going off the autometer gauge and sender i have in the tstat housing. it usually reads pretty close to the dash once it is warm. and has always read a consistant 200* when it gets to 80 or better. yesterday i also monitored my trans gauge, i had done a lot of stop and go and it to never got over the 1/4 line on the gauge, when normally it would be 1/2 mark during stop and go when the oat gets higher. as far as power and performance i cant tell any. but then again i am not stock. i am doing some milage checks now so i can compare. stay tuned. thanks larry for the pics.
just an fyi, i have my egr in and the mouth piece adjusted all the way down as far as it will go, and it does not hit my hood.

I ordered from Partszoneonline July 13, I got an email requesting vin#. I gave them my LLY vin, later thinking they might send me a LLY mp. Anyway I then got a backorder email. And to my surprise it showed up today. Now I'm waitin on a silicone coupler, which I just ordered. I really didn't think the mp was gonna show up otherwise I woulda had the coupler already. Total; including shipping was $90.76

I am still looking at creating a whole new piece that stomps the LBZ one but I wouldn't mind helping people get these right now since they seem to want them.

Hey - I have your CAI and I'd be willing to take the next step with your turbo inlet if you can keep the price in the CAI ballpark.

Just a suggestion - be sure to pre-plug the PCV and resonator ports - even if you stub out the nipples to make it look like the OEM part.

Hey - I have your CAI and I'd be willing to take the next step with your turbo inlet if you can keep the price in the CAI ballpark.

Just a suggestion - be sure to pre-plug the PCV and resonator ports - even if you stub out the nipples to make it look like the OEM part.

X2!

Joseph

okay guys, i have an update al be it minor so far, it hit low 80's yesterday and i normally would hit 200* but i never really got it over 180-185. that is going off the autometer gauge and sender i have in the tstat housing. it usually reads pretty close to the dash once it is warm. and has always read a consistant 200* when it gets to 80 or better. yesterday i also monitored my trans gauge, i had done a lot of stop and go and it to never got over the 1/4 line on the gauge, when normally it would be 1/2 mark during stop and go when the oat gets higher. as far as power and performance i cant tell any. but then again i am not stock. i am doing some milage checks now so i can compare. stay tuned. thanks larry for the pics.
just an fyi, i have my egr in and the mouth piece adjusted all the way down as far as it will go, and it does not hit my hood.


X2, i have the 2004 older hood and mine doesnt hit either. Is yours a chevy or GMC? Guys out there with the GMC are you having clearance issues with the hood?

I had what appeared to be at least an inch when closed from the heat shield..... Just curious

Do we know yet if the Kodiak mouthpiece will work?

Do we know yet if the LMM mouthpiece is the same as the LBZ?

I saw this posted on the Medium-Duty Truck part of the forum:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=257292

Someone posted some photos, but I'm at work, and our server wouldn't let the photos show up, so I don't know what they're showing. But hopefully they're at least food for thought.

Joseph

OK - i've read through most of this, but can someone post of the two pieces next to each other? I'd like to see them side by side.

Also - what's this change that a good after market intake wouldn't? Just tyring to figure out what the mouth actually does to help.

Thanks.

After market intakes attach to the mouthpiece. The restriction is at the mouthpiece.

X2, i have the 2004 older hood and mine doesnt hit either. Is yours a chevy or GMC? Guys out there with the GMC are you having clearance issues with the hood?

I had what appeared to be at least an inch when closed from the heat shield..... Just curious
i have an 05 hood and grille. i switched it. never liked the 03-04 hood. apparently gm did not either as they switched pretty quick.

Off topic???? How so?? It seems that the discussion was about trying to improve the mouthpiece of an LLY with a LBZ piece. Now that they have become "unavailable", it would seem to be to be the intelligent thing to find an alternative source.

But if you guys want another 11 pages of people complaining of having their orders canceled, and asking where they can score a LBZ piece.....have at it. I thought we were trying to find a solution.

X2 this is a great thread, with everyone who has a cancelled order its nice to see what everyone is doing to try and improvise.

I too have a LLY MP (unmodifed) that I'm not using so if anyone ruins theirs in trying to modify their own PM me and we can work something out.

X2, Lets keep an open mind about this and look at ALL the possible solutoins. With the results I got from porting my LLY piece I'm really interested in finding a LBZ or better.

I wasn't complaining about off topic, I was just saying we're off in three directions, so a solution must be close. Visiting today, I see none to be had yet...

I saw this posted on the Medium-Duty Truck part of the forum:

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=257292

Someone posted some photos, but I'm at work, and our server wouldn't let the photos show up, so I don't know what they're showing. But hopefully they're at least food for thought.

Joseph

Here are the pictures Joseph (and the rest of us). Looks like it would be a pain to try and compare on the dealer lot.

Here are the pictures Joseph (and the rest of us). Looks like it would be a pain to try and compare on the dealer lot.


Thats the pictures I saw.....You need to remove the huge airbox on a Kodiak to even partially see the mouthpiece.

I was kind of hoping that someone knew of a medium duty dealership that might have BOTH mouthpieces sitting on a shelf...and would kindly take the time to let us get a visual comparison.

I was also kind of hoping that Gasuout had both pieces at the same time when he did his motor rebuild...but, I think he just had got a short block for his build.

I posted the pictures. Hard to tell if there are restriction unless piece is removed. I stuck my fingers down as far as I could. Found none. But there may be something past bend you can see in picture.

I just got back from the dealer and have this to add to the discussion.

1) 4500 & 5500 series trucks only have LLY and LMM engines, no LBZ. Wouldn't the LLY of this series truck essentialy be the same monster? Or is the '06 LLY like the '06 ''small truck'' that's actually an LBZ? The pictures on the computer look generic, not showing any discrepancies between the two types (all pictures look like the LLY smaller truck series MP).

2) My dealer says the part will be available October 2nd (after speaking with the warehouse in Martinsburg, W.Va.). This just confirms what was said earlier in this thread. They told him (my parts guy) it's a ''vendor'' item, and that was the expected fulfillment date. Take this for what it's worth.

3) Dealer retail on the Oct. 2 part is $115.59 (part # 98011738), actually less than today's ''on the shelf'' retail price of $126...something (if they had one to sell).

I posted the pictures. Hard to tell if there are restriction unless piece is removed. I stuck my fingers down as far as I could. Found none. But there may be something past bend you can see in picture.


The 90 degree bend is the problem... on the stock lly

Can someone who does (or did) get their LBZ MP lay it side by side to their LLY MP and take some pictures to post here?

On edit, I see mrquick68 already asked this.

If no one posts any pictures, I will, but it will be a long wait. I ordered it through my dealer for jobber cost of $86.

No, I didn't need a VIN number to order it.

Can someone who does (or did) get their LBZ MP lay it side by side to their LLY MP and take some pictures to post here?

On edit, I see mrquick68 already asked this.

If no one posts any pictures, I will, but it will be a long wait. I ordered it through my dealer for jobber cost of $86.

No, I didn't need a VIN number to order it.

Not sure if you mean Kodiak MP's but this is of an 04 2500hd LLY MP and a 06 2500HD LBZ MP.

It won't let me upload the pics a second time, but you can view the 2 next to eachother here.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253802&page=22

page 22 of this thread.

I just ordered a LBZ mouthpiece from the local GM light truck repair shop. $85 my cost . Backordered, wont be available till oct. 1st. like everyone else. We will see..

Not sure if you mean Kodiak MP's but this is of an 04 2500hd LLY MP and a 06 2500HD LBZ MP.

It won't let me upload the pics a second time, but you can view the 2 next to eachother here.

page 22 of this thread.

I ment LBZ and LLY side by side (on a workbench) before installation so we can see (for the 2500 & 3500 series trucks). If someone has a Kodiak MP to compare, that would do also. I just wanted to see them on a table (not installed) for a side by side for comparison.

Page 22? I only show 7 pages, but I have mine turned up to 40 posts per page.

To repost a picture, just resize it to 99% of it's original size and rename it. Then you can repost a previously posted picture. ;)

It's a real shame that threads are closed because of... well I won't go there. It's like grade school all over again. :mad:

Update: I've located one! HEHE

How about reposting it like this:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=69766&d=1217465132

Dang! That LBZ mouthpiece is a monster!

Joseph

Now do you guys see why this piece MUST improve flow into the turbo?

My God! My poor LLY is going to gag on that!

Thanks for the pictures, that's what I wanted to see.

Open wide and say AAAAH there turbo.

Yeah thats for sure. This is the close up of the MP ends that go to the turbo, which show that no matter how well you Mod the LLY MP it won't perform like the LBZ does as it is stock.

wow..........

I am up a good 1.5 mpg towing at 65 mph (I81, I84 to I87) - not flat ground towing either .... (about 430 miles) I was at 11.0 mpg on flat ground at 65 mph (I95 from home to Myrtle beach and return back in March ....)

I like this mod .... will save me another $70 on this trip alone by the end including all of the driving around we are doing .... glad I was able to get my hands on this mod ....

Wow, I can't believe I just found out about this. I guess I will just mod my stock mp for now and hope for a good solution that isn't too pricey.

Does the '06 intake make a difference with this mod or would it be a waste of money to buy a used one?

i think it's a better set up... great filter and larger diameter tubing...

you will need efi live to adjust the maf table though.

What would be really interesting is to see a back to back dyno run with no other changes. Would like to know what kind of difference there is from the LLY to LBZ inlet.

Does the '06 intake make a difference with this mod or would it be a waste of money to buy a used one?

If by intake, you mean the air filter assembly and related tube feeding the mouth piece, yes, there is still more to be had. But don't forget that the round filter element runs $50 +/- to replace compared to $15 +/- for what you have now. Is the small gain worth it? Personally, I'm sticking with my stock rectangle filter set up for now.

What would be really interesting is to see a back to back dyno run with no other changes. Would like to know what kind of difference there is from the LLY to LBZ inlet.

This opens up all kinds of new testing... How about compressor outlet temperatures before/after the modification? People here and in the closed thread have reported better mileage and cooler coolant temperatures. Yes, a detailed dyno run is in order. I'm convinced, and hopefully will have my hands on one today.

I got to get me one! I hate being patient!

If by intake, you mean the air filter assembly and related tube feeding the mouth piece, yes, there is still more to be had. But don't forget that the round filter element runs $50 +/- to replace compared to $15 +/- for what you have now. Is the small gain worth it? Personally, I'm sticking with my stock rectangle filter set up for now.

$50! I could buy a K&N replacement for mine for that money (not that I'd get a K&N). For the little gain I will stick with my stock set-up for now and port the mp.

Thanks for the response Diesel_Day_Dreamin.

Last weeks full tank I got about .75 mpg gain on mine. One thing I have noticed is that I am a little sluggish at low RPMs/Boost now and I think it may be partially MAF settings and partially that there is now too much air volume for the turbo at low suction. I had the 2006 airbox already though. I am going to try loading the LBZ MAF settings this week and see how it goes.

Also, I towed to the coast this weekend, over the hills on the windy step roads and got .5 to 1 mpg better than previous towing trips (different types though!). My egt's while towing seem about the same, maybe even a tad higher when lugging, but when it downshifts or when the grade is over they seem to drop faster than previously.

Tow tune also does not smoke at all anymore.

Hot tune seems to actually smoke a bit more?

I am collecting pieces for a prototype, if it works out it won't be long until it is ready after that .......

I am collecting pieces for a prototype, if it works out it won't be long until it is ready after that .......
:grd:

:grd:

Hopefully with in reasonable cost too...;)

Hopefully with in reasonable cost too...;)

:agreed:

I am collecting pieces for a prototype, if it works out it won't be long until it is ready after that .......

.....and patiently, I wait...:)

Hey, will you consider designing yours to be a direct fit without having to trim off the intake tube as one has to do with the LBZ? or is the kit going to require all that modification to fit? Also some, like me, prefer keeping the resonator just for looks - will that be a consideration as well?

I liked the TxC CAI install because there was only a little mod to do to the unit for it to fit and work flawlessly. :rockit::coolnana::ro)

Does the '06 intake make a difference with this mod or would it be a waste of money to buy a used one?
yes it does, it flows alot more air. just at idle i went from 4lbs per minute, to over 5lbs per minute. i have some logs of some runs, but have not viewed them yet so i can be more definitive once i do. keep in mind the 4lbs per minute was with an s&b cold air kit on, not even the stock lly filter kit. i did some tuning on a buddy's truck that is stock except exhaust and his was in the later part of the 3's lbs per minute stock air cleaner.
i think it's a better set up... great filter and larger diameter tubing...

you will need efi live to adjust the maf table though.
if you don't want to spend the money on efi you can go to your local dealer and have them do the reflash. they probably wont charge you, and if they do it wont be much.
If by intake, you mean the air filter assembly and related tube feeding the mouth piece, yes, there is still more to be had. But don't forget that the round filter element runs $50 +/- to replace compared to $15 +/- for what you have now. Is the small gain worth it? Personally, I'm sticking with my stock rectangle filter set up for now.
the round filter like the square one rarely needs to be changed. yes it is more, but is a lot bigger in fiter capacity than the square one, so it wont be changed nearly as often. plus much less restrictive. like i stated before the stock lly air filter setup flows between 3.5-4lbs per minute, and the 06 lbz style flows 5lbs per minute at idle.

I am collecting pieces for a prototype, if it works out it won't be long until it is ready after that .......


Ok... You wrote that 7:00 pm last night. Is it ready yet??? :D

I loaded the 06 LLY/LBZ MAF Resistor settings last night and the truck dives much better, especially at low throttle position.

When GM put the 06 Air Box in their new calibration only accounts for the extra air flow from the box and tube, and now with the inlet duct the flow is even greater.

I think the combination of the 06 box and inlet duct makes the most difference. Back when I only got the 06 air box I noticed a little drop in ECT. Towing this last weekend I only had the fan come on once on a steep windy hill.

I picked up an 06 airbox to use when I get the mouthpiece. I wonder if getting a MAF reflash will cause problems with my Hypertech? Anyone know?

I loaded the 06 LLY/LBZ MAF Resistor settings last night and the truck dives much better, especially at low throttle position.

When GM put the 06 Air Box in their new calibration only accounts for the extra air flow from the box and tube, and now with the inlet duct the flow is even greater.

I wouldn't think that it would matter. Yes, with the new mouthpiece, the flow will be greater, but the MAF sensor should pick that up. I thought it needed to be recalibrated for the new airbox because of the larger diameter of the tube where the MAF sensor was mounted. Or am I missing something?

Joseph

yeah your right. the cross section of the air tube is alot bigger.

I wouldn't think that it would matter. Yes, with the new mouthpiece, the flow will be greater, but the MAF sensor should pick that up. I thought it needed to be recalibrated for the new airbox because of the larger diameter of the tube where the MAF sensor was mounted. Or am I missing something?

Joseph


I would think it would be fine too, but I have noticed a difference. Also the biggest difference as far as flow between an 04 with and 06 air box and and 06 is the inlet, yet the MAF settings are different.

I think you would be fine either way, but loading the 06 MAF settings cleaned my low end up noticeably.

I picked up an 06 airbox to use when I get the mouthpiece. I wonder if getting a MAF reflash will cause problems with my Hypertech? Anyone know?

You'll probably want to take the tune out with it before you go to the dealer. If they reflash the ECU you'll lose the tune anyway. If you take it out before you go at least you'll be able to put it back in, otherwise the Hypertech will probably be locked and you won't be able to use it again.

I am collecting pieces for a prototype, if it works out it won't be long until it is ready after that .......

Composite or aluminum?

Looks like one could make one with a tightly mandrel bent 4'' aluminum pipe and a welded collar for the clamp to catch/mount it to the turbo... but with aluminum, there's the engine heat.



yes it does, it flows alot more air. just at idle i went from 4lbs per minute, to over 5lbs per minute. i have some logs of some runs, but have not viewed them yet so i can be more definitive once i do. keep in mind the 4lbs per minute was with an s&b cold air kit on, not even the stock lly filter kit. i did some tuning on a buddy's truck that is stock except exhaust and his was in the later part of the 3's lbs per minute stock air cleaner.

if you don't want to spend the money on efi you can go to your local dealer and have them do the reflash. they probably wont charge you, and if they do it wont be much.

the round filter like the square one rarely needs to be changed. yes it is more, but is a lot bigger in fiter capacity than the square one, so it wont be changed nearly as often. plus much less restrictive. like i stated before the stock lly air filter setup flows between 3.5-4lbs per minute, and the 06 lbz style flows 5lbs per minute at idle.

I did say ''for now''. ;) If I can find an 06' filter setup used (first) and sell my Edge J/A for money towards EFILive, I'm there!

My LBZ MP is on the UPS truck due for delivery Thursday (my connection came through for me :D). The curiosity got the better of me, so tonight I removed my stock MP. For those thinking of ''dremel-ing'' their stock tube, looks like some small gains can be had. The LLY MP has a sharp corner on the inside 90° bend that could be blended to a .062 radius for sure. Even the air box has a hanging (almost .080'') sharp edge. this too could use some blending. I won't do the '06 filter and tube until I'm able to program for increased tube diameter.

Question... For those who have done this mod, will the LLY clamp work, or do I need an LBZ Mouth Piece to Turbo clamp?

Question... For those who have done this mod, will the LLY clamp work, or do I need an LBZ Mouth Piece to Turbo clamp?

My LBZ mp came with a clamp, it's the same as the LLY.

This may be a lame question, but when you go to the dealer, do you just say;
"I need my mass air flow sensor remapped to match the parameters from a LBZ motor?"

LOL! Good question nelsduramax (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/member.php?u=15394)

LOL! Good question nelsduramax (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/member.php?u=15394)


I would think they should know, but I haven't done it. Tell them that you followed
Document ID# 1850306 which is the LLY to LBZ airbox retrofit and you need the flash due to the MAF tables being different.



I just put my LBZ mouthpiece on and it makes a huge difference, even compared to the ported LLY piece which is a lot better than the stock piece....and I got to kill a dodge tonight already. On my test flight after installation, I have noticed another 3lbs of boost as I hit 33lbs instead of just 30 doing a WOT run with my PPE 225 tune in.

Hopefully I will see some mpg gains as others have noticed.

Definately a good question. My hick-town dealer knows very little to nothing about this stuff. I'm giving them an education everytime I go there. After buying the mechanic and shop manager a couple of lunches, they pretty much just do as I ask with no questions anymore, every once in a while throwing in a freebie.

just go armed with the bulletin and ask them to perform this reflash. simple. if you all were closer i'd do them all for ya.

Today, in the mail, my Kodiak LBZ intake mouthpiece showed up. Too bad I didn't get it a couple days earlier as I put the LBZ mouthpiece on Monday night and I had to cut the LLY intake duct from the airbox like everyone else to mate them up.

From looking at the pictures below, you can see that the Kodiak mouthpiece has the same bigger intake hole that feeds the turbo. It doesn't have the provision for the 6.6L silencer box. It also has the smaller end on the other side so that the LLY intake tract will just slide over and you tighten up. Using this, you will have all the gains of the LBZ truck mouthpiece and it will only take you about 10-15 minutes total to realize all the gains.

By the way, since I put my regular LBZ truck mouthpiece on already, this Kodiak LBZ mouthpiece and my LLY mouthpiece that was ported are both for sale in marketplace.

Sweet!
What was the part number for the Kodiak LBZ M.P.?

Today, in the mail, my Kodiak LBZ intake mouthpiece showed up. Too bad I didn't get it a couple days earlier as I put the LBZ mouthpiece on Monday night and I had to cut the LLY intake duct from the airbox like everyone else to mate them up.

From looking at the pictures below, you can see that the Kodiak mouthpiece has the same bigger intake hole that feeds the turbo. It doesn't have the provision for the 6.6L silencer box. It also has the smaller end on the other side so that the LLY intake tract will just slide over and you tighten up. Using this, you will have all the gains of the LBZ truck mouthpiece and it will only take you about 10-15 minutes total to realize all the gains.

By the way, since I put my regular LBZ truck mouthpiece on already, this Kodiak LBZ mouthpiece and my LLY mouthpiece that was ported are both for sale in marketplace.

wow, what a difference !!!
great post with excellent pics !!!!

Yes, thanks for the pics wilsonck. That's definitely a second option. Looks like for the biggest airflow gain of the three the LBZ MP is the way to go. Funny thing is, there isn't someone producing these in their aftermarket intake line up. Those aftermarket intake kits for $300.+/- still have to flow through that stock air restriction, so what's the point?

I just ordered the LBZ mp thru gmpartsdirect and it didnt say anything about it being backordered

Just ordered my Kodiak MP from GMpartsdirect. Hopefully I am in the front part of the line forming and it doesn't get canceled.
06 Kodiak LBZ mp # 98011736

I just ordered the LBZ mp thru gmpartsdirect and it didnt say anything about it being backordered

It will be canceled, the MP is on backorder and the website wont tell you that

Just ordered my Kodiak MP from GMpartsdirect. Hopefully I am in the front part of the line forming and it doesn't get canceled.
06 Kodiak LBZ mp # 98011736


X2!

Thanks for the Kodiac part number, just got mine on order from the local chevy dealer, suppose to be here in 4 days.......I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for the info.

Just called Partsdirectonline.com to change the part number to the Kodiak MP. The lady looked up the part number and its on back order as well. But there are 2 at dealerships, so she is going to call and try an get if for me.

The back order date she is showing is 10-10-08. She's got a pile of about 20 orders for MP sitting on her desk.

Ordered mine - supposed to be here tomorrow... confirmed. I got the Kodiak mp through my dealer for $115 + s&h. According to them, it's like the last one in stock in the US. Sheesh!

Just called Partsdirectonline.com to change the part number to the Kodiak MP. The lady looked up the part number and its on back order as well. But there are 2 at dealerships, so she is going to call and try an get if for me.

The back order date she is showing is 10-10-08. She's got a pile of about 20 orders for MP sitting on her desk.

Partsdirect just called back and said the dealer is releasing it to her so it should be here within a week.

Without the resinator is it louder? what are the bennifets of having it?



Today, in the mail, my Kodiak LBZ intake mouthpiece showed up. Too bad I didn't get it a couple days earlier as I put the LBZ mouthpiece on Monday night and I had to cut the LLY intake duct from the airbox like everyone else to mate them up.

From looking at the pictures below, you can see that the Kodiak mouthpiece has the same bigger intake hole that feeds the turbo. It doesn't have the provision for the 6.6L silencer box. It also has the smaller end on the other side so that the LLY intake tract will just slide over and you tighten up. Using this, you will have all the gains of the LBZ truck mouthpiece and it will only take you about 10-15 minutes total to realize all the gains.

By the way, since I put my regular LBZ truck mouthpiece on already, this Kodiak LBZ mouthpiece and my LLY mouthpiece that was ported are both for sale in marketplace.

Not sure what the actual purpose of it is but i've had mine off for over a year and when i took it off i didnt notice a difference in sound or anything.

Without the resinator is it louder? what are the bennifets of having it?

Blocking the resonator will make the engine sound a bit throatier. Theory behind the thing is that having the resonator will allow the airflow to be harmonically smoothed/balanced, thus improving engine performance. In reality, though, they only seem to quieten the engine a bit. And as for performance... you'll not find an intake resonator on any police car or vehicle. Comparing them side-by-side, you'll see one on the non-police car or truck and you'll see 'em on the cars/trucks we all buy. Should tell you something.

One of the key rationales for blocking the resonator is that the thing is made of plastic and can split, thus allowing unfiltered air to go into the engine. So, it's as much a preventative as it is anything else. Some have claimed a measurable but undetectable increase in HP... but I've been told the amount claimed (3 RWHP) is just as likely variation in dyno settings.

However, in light of this thread, the air flow through the mouthpiece will be smoother if it's blocked. On the stock LLY mouthpiece, the combination of smoothing out the internal casting corners, etc. plus blocking the resonator both need to be done.

My one question is whether or not there's anything that needs to be smoothed out on the LBZ mouthpiece... which I should be able to assess tomorrow when mine comes in.

O.K., my MP came today along with the LBZ intake pieces that completes the job. :cool: I'm taking it to the next step...

As you can see, not only is the Mouth Piece bigger, but the after-intercooler pieces are larger too. ;) This will also require the LBZ CAC to intake pipe (intercooler to intake pieces you see), and an LBZ air filter w/ piping (essentially the entire LBZ intake system except the manifold).

Just call it the DDD (or 3D) mod.

O.K., my MP came today along with the LBZ intake pieces that completes the job. :cool: I'm taking it to the next step...

As you can see, not only is the Mouth Piece bigger, but the after-intercooler pieces are larger too. ;) This will also require the LBZ CAC to intake pipe (intercooler to intake pieces you see), and an LBZ air filter w/ piping (essentially the entire LBZ intake system except the manifold).

Just call it the DDD (or 3D) mod.

nice. can you post a pic of the two after-cool pieces side by side? I'd like to see the differences between the two. Thanks.

Well, I got my Kodiak mp this morning from my dealer. Been driving around ever since, so I gotta let the engine cool before I install it. Hopefully later tonight or maybe in the morning. I'll let y'all know how it goes and what it does. My dealer claimed this one was the last one in dealer inventory in the US - came out of California. I told her if I had 200 of 'em I could sell 'em all. She did say she would look again and call me if any more came available...

BTW, anyone want my old LLY stock mp when it's off?

Without the resinator is it louder? what are the bennifets of having it?

I talked to a friend who is a factory trained honda tech with about 30 years experience. He said....

It is there to smooth the intake pulses for proper operation of the PCV. Smooths the pull on it... It also provides for an extra volume of air that can be used when you romp on it - improves throttle response.

I noticed that the lbz intake also increases plenum area - provides more volume of air close to the turbo intake to improve throttle response (over the lly). And from what I am reading this is very noticeable for those who have installed it.


jeff

I should be seeing my LBZ inlet on Monday at the earliest and Wednesday by the latest...:D

nice. can you post a pic of the two after-cool pieces side by side? I'd like to see the differences between the two. Thanks.

Here are some more pictures with the (I'll call them) EGR pipe. The LBZ rectangle tube that bolts to the electronic EGR valve measures 3.11'' (external) compared to 2.26'' of the LLY. The entire setup is larger, just like seen in the LLY vs. LBZ mouth pieces. When I remove the LLY (at a later date) I will post pictures of them side by side... Trust me, if you were impressed with the side by side mouth piece pictures, you will be equally impressed with these.

My LBZ mouth piece is on. I had to bend the 5/8'' engine coolant tube coming from the EGR ''log'' to lower the MP to a natural state. A couple of wires had to be removed from their brackets to allow this monster to nestle into it's new home. I will simply relocate the loom holders so the wiring is kept in check (you will see the wires I'm talking about when you install yours). I will add pictures of this later.

For now I will finish up just the MP part of the mod. I need to order the aluminum tube that goes between the intercooler and the cast pieces pictured. I also have to get the LBZ round filter setup because of the pipe routing (LLY filter box and piping will be in the way). My friend with an '06 LBZ is coming up Sunday so I can compare notes and take plenty of pictures for assembly purposes of my truck.

The cast piece to manifold adapter (I'll call it) is also bigger, but the double ''O'' ring diameter is the same. You just unbolt the LLY stuff from the EGR and pop off the LLY adapter from the manifold, then install the LBZ stuff. One thing I'm not sure of (and will find out Sunday), is if the LBZ tube coming off the intercooler is of a larger diameter. If so, I will get a neck down hose because I believe the LBZ intercooler is even bigger (and therefore will not be adaptable to my LLY core support).

Lastly, the LBZ appears to have an inline heating element (see picture). Our LLYs don't have this. Can someone ''in the know'' shed some light on this? I will machine a blank adapter (like a carburetor spacer) to eliminate this (or gut it out). My tractor has this. It heats the air to aid in starting on cold days. Might this be of the same design?

Anyway, this is a work in progress and I will post pictures of my progress in the coming days for those who wish to follow in my footsteps. Sorry if I hijacked the tread, maybe I should have started a new one? It started off about the LBZ MP until I discovered that all the LBZ stuff is bigger and bolts right up.

Note the mismatch of the resonator... I guess if I wish to keep it, I will have to modify the bracket.

I had to bend the 5/8'' engine coolant tube coming from the EGR ''log'' to lower the MP to a natural state.

Note the mismatch of the resonator... I guess if I wish to keep it, I will have to modify the bracket.

Excellent information Diesel_Day_Dreamin. :thankyou2

I'm installing the LBZ intake and MP; finally received the MP yesterday. I like the idea of lowering the EGR coolant hose instead of removing the MP external rib. How did you bend the cooler fitting? How much did you bend it?

Good information on the resonator support bracket, too.

PS: Clean engine compartments are good. :thumb:

I talked to a friend who is a factory trained honda tech with about 30 years experience. He said....

It is there to smooth the intake pulses for proper operation of the PCV. Smooths the pull on it... It also provides for an extra volume of air that can be used when you romp on it - improves throttle response.

I noticed that the lbz intake also increases plenum area - provides more volume of air close to the turbo intake to improve throttle response (over the lly). And from what I am reading this is very noticeable for those who have installed it.


jeff


A mechanic friend of mine also mentioned that the MAF is set with the PCV in mind and when you do a PCV re-route your MAF flow rate will differ a little bit.

OK... so I finally installed my Kodiak mp today. Here's what I had to do:

Removed the resonator (duh).
Removed the intake duct from the airbox to the mp.
Removed the stock LLY mp.
Unhooked the wire that goes to the top of the turbo (it runs right over the mp).
Unhooked the harness bracket that's attached to the intake - it had to be slightly bent so I could rotate it toward the front of the truck slightly.
I had to grind off one of the tabs on the turbo face of the Kodiak mp which makes sure the mp is lined up (there are 3 of 'em). Maybe I didn't need to do that, but it seemed I could not get it to line up and go flush with the tab there.
Mount the Kodiak mp, being sure the turbo face of the mp is in place but loose enough to allow it to rotate as necessary.
Slip the intake back onto the air box and tighten enough to keep it in place but so it can be rotate.
Now, the challenge is to get the intake tube to connect to the Kodiak mp. I had to rotate the mp upward and adjust some things back and forth until there was a happy medium. It leaves the mp a bit high, but it does clear the hood and everything fits.
Hook the wiring back up and replace the harness bracket. The harness bracket has a small tab bent in such a way that it keeps the harness in a specific location. Well, I bent the small tab up so I could rotate the whole thing slightly away from the mp, then tightened the nut back up on the intake.Done. The resonator doesn't go back on since the Kodiak mp doesn't have a port for it.

Haven't driven it yet - I'll be going out in a bit. When I dig out my camera, I'll take a couple of pics. The only thing I will probably do something about is that the intake tube between the air box and the mp are a little out of kilter (good thing there's a small section of flexible hose there). Once I track down a section of silicone boot material, I will probably cut the intake tube down so things line up a little better, which would in turn allow me to rotate the mp down a little.

Excellent information Diesel_Day_Dreamin. :thankyou2

I'm installing the LBZ intake and MP; finally received the MP yesterday. I like the idea of lowering the EGR coolant hose instead of removing the MP external rib. How did you bend the cooler fitting? How much did you bend it?

Good information on the resonator support bracket, too.

PS: Clean engine compartments are good. :thumb:

I used a piece of round stock steel bar (about 3/4'' dia), laid on the inside radius and a dead blow hammer. I bent it about 3/8''-1/2''. One could crow bar it, but the only leverage point is the turbo... bad idea. You are right in your thinking about grinding on the MP. You may grind past the seal and allow unfiltered air in or worse, start a crack that splits the seal. I've added a picture from an author unknown (can't give credit). When I take on a project like this, I copy all pictures and information I come accross. You know the saying, ''a picture is worth a thousand words''. I just tried to look at mine (take a picture), but it's almost complete and I don't want to disassemble just for a picture. ;)

I hate dirty engine compartments. :mad: Not bad for 47k miles huh? gets cleaned about twice a year.

My buddy will be here today with his LBZ truck (instead of Sunday). I will be checking his resonator bracket (licking my chomps :)). I wonder if the LBZ bracket will work? I don't want to lose the resonator, but the PCV bypass is a MUST. I reconnected it for the sake of using my truck tomorrow. Oily residue on turbo and throughout the system has me concerned.

Photos below explanation...

From left to right

1) How much I bent the tube.
2) Wire holder to be untaped and relocated.
3) The resonator ''peg'' mismatch. Maybe just need the LBZ one?

Good breifing on the job Randy... You described about the same as I did. I will also mention the small wire to the turbo has just enough slack (second picture above) to run between the resonator port and the PCV port (for those who install the LBZ or non-Kodiak MP). My MP clocking was perfect horizontal (9 o'clock) after bending the EGR/coolant outlet (first picture above). No flange tab removal necessary. Yes on the 1'' wire loom bracket bending forward (same as you did).

Randy, nice writeup. If you had to do it again would you use a Kodiak lbz MP,or a standard lbz MP to hook up to the stock lly intake duct. Sounds like you still need to cut the lly intake duct as with the standard lbz MP. Have waited to see which one shakes out the best and Im not sure which way to go yet. I dont think I will miss the resonator either.

Randy, nice writeup. If you had to do it again would you use a Kodiak lbz MP,or a standard lbz MP to hook up to the stock lly intake duct. Sounds like you still need to cut the lly intake duct as with the standard lbz MP. Have waited to see which one shakes out the best and Im not sure which way to go yet. I dont think I will miss the resonator either.

Well, I don't know. I do know that I was able to shove it all together and just tighten things... and having the resonator off doesn't bother me. So, if I had to do it again, I'd probably do what I did... go with the Kodiak. I didn't have to cut the intake... and it could function as is from here on out.

I'm uploading some pics right now... I'll post some here in a few minutes...

In the middle of this pic, notice the nut on the intake and the bracket underneath. I had to bend the notch flat and rotate it toward the front of the truck:
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd280/randy_the_hack/P8230163.jpg

Here's a pic from the front... you can see how I've had to lift things up due to the EGR pipe (which I did not bend):
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd280/randy_the_hack/P8230162.jpg

Here's another pic that shows the mp:
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd280/randy_the_hack/P8230168.jpg

BTW, I did notice some extra kick in the pants when I took it out, but I really didn't do much - had the wife with me and the A/C on, but it is noticeable. I'm taking a run out to Oklahoma over Labor Day with a trailer full of stuff for the college kids - ought to be able to report on it afterwards.

Looks like the Kodiak MP is smaller. No way would my factory LLY pipe fit on the LBZ mouth piece as Randy has done. Randy, if you loosen the clamp on the filter box, the accordian rubber piece will straighten out and then you can retighten your clamp.;)

Mine is complete for now. I will test drive tomorrow.

As you can see, it looks factory... Only an inch (1'') taller than stock. GMC(s) have hood clearance problems, but none here. Very happy with how it turned out!

Lets try the photo bucket thing...

http://http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh202/Diesel_Day_Dreamin/complete.jpg

http://http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh202/Diesel_Day_Dreamin/noturningbacknow.jpg

Actually, it won't. I fiddled around with that for 10-15 minutes trying to make it "fit". The Kodiak mp is just that much longer than stock, which results in the accordion needing to weave and bob in order to get the two to hook up at all... plus the fact that the Kodiak mp runs against the EGR tube. I might be able to bend it and get it to come down a little, but still... it's just too long.

What did you use to bridge the gap between the mp and the intake you cut? Mine would really look better if I would cut my intake to make it match up without the accordion having to make up the difference.

For now a 4'' x 4'' rubber pipe coupler from Lowes ($6.49). The LBZ MP outer dia. is like 4.300'' and the LLY (at the cut) was like 3.800'' diameter. I will buy an actual silicone pipe connector from summit racing (for turbo applications). As hot as the LLY(s) run, I'm afraid of it melting.

On edit... I take that back, I have the Factory round filter set up off an '06 LBZ coming. (I forgot about that.)

http://http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh202/Diesel_Day_Dreamin/factoryLBZ.jpg

After viewing my friend's LBZ today, I have more questions than answers for when I go to install the rest of the LBZ components. The ''after intercooler'' LBZ pipe is plastic with clips that connect it on. Our LLY(s) have an aluminum pipe with hoses and clamps between the intercooler and the manifold/EGR interface. I will have to fabricate a tube for between the intercooler and the intake pieces. Before the ''heating element'' on the LBZ there is a sensor. It looks to be the boost sensor. That will take some research. The various bracketry is obviously different, but yet again the LBZ engine's component mounts vary slightly. The LBZ intercooler is a monster, about 4'' taller with inlet/outlet ports a good 1/2'' bigger in diameter. I think it is still do-able, but this part of the project will wait for winter.

RE: post #200, picture 3, that cane tip over the pcv port kinda makes me nervous. Wouldn't it be better to put a piece of plugged heater hose or something like that over it?

Question for those that have swapped the complete LBZ intake. Is the MAF sensor the same one just recalibrated? or is it a completely different one plus the recalibration? I'm thinkin about swapping the LBZ mouth piece and getting the elbow for the Banks LBZ intake (if i can get just the elbow) since I already have the Banks intake, since the elbow appears to be the only difference between the LLY and the LBZ intakes. That way I would have the best of both worlds (get to keep my intake I already have and have the new mouthpiece). Any thoughts on this?

My question doesn't pertain to the LBZ MP, but for the guys you have re-routed their PCV. First off, what type of plug are you using to plug the hole in the MP? It looks like its about 1" outside and probably 3/4-7/8" inside. I've looked for a rubber type of plug and coming up short of finding one. I suppose I could leave the hose and clamp thats on it and find a 1" sprinkler plug and hose clamp to block it off. Second ?, are you running some type of a filter at the end of the added hose? I know the PCV blows, but when you shut your truck off, doesn't it actually suck for just a second? Not long enough to probably hurt anything its just a thought. I was thinking if I could find an all mesh filter, with no fabric, that way you could pull it off and clean it with some brake clean. Let me here some insight.

RE: post #200, picture 3, that cane tip over the pcv port kinda makes me nervous. Wouldn't it be better to put a piece of plugged heater hose or something like that over it?

Consider:

The thing fits, and fits pretty tight
There's a vacuum holding it in place
I've driven about 15k miles with the same setup on my stock LLY mp
There have to be countless dozens of guys out here with exactly the same setupConclusion: This will work just fine. Some guys add a hose clamp, but it's really unnecessary.

Question for those that have swapped the complete LBZ intake. Is the MAF sensor the same one just recalibrated? or is it a completely different one plus the recalibration? I'm thinkin about swapping the LBZ mouth piece and getting the elbow for the Banks LBZ intake (if i can get just the elbow) since I already have the Banks intake, since the elbow appears to be the only difference between the LLY and the LBZ intakes. That way I would have the best of both worlds (get to keep my intake I already have and have the new mouthpiece). Any thoughts on this?

The MAF sensors are different part numbers (by one number), that much I know. will my LLY MAF work in the LBZ setup? It mounts OK and I suppose it will work (after recalibration), but don't know for sure. I will be crossing that bridge here real soon. Someone please chime in on this. The LLY number is 8 97209 5451, and the LBZ is 8 97209 5452.

LLY MAF...

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh202/Diesel_Day_Dreamin/llymaf.jpg

LBZ MAF...

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh202/Diesel_Day_Dreamin/lbzmaf.jpg

has any body done this mod or thought of doing it with a aem intake for the lly or is the lbz mp to big

I forgot tha i had the egr delete kit from ppe would there be any difference in mounting the mp

I just read through all 22 pages of this today. I think I've decided I need to get the kodiak lbz mp. I hate to wait until october, but I've waited this long. Maybe TXC will come up with a better alternative by then ;)

will my LLY MAF work in the LBZ setup?

TSB 06-06-04-036 describes retro - fit of the LBZ intake to the LLY MP. The LLY MAF sensor is used and the ECM is recalibrated.

The current revision of the TSB is 06-06-04-036D JUN 07. I don't have a copy of it; however, I have 06-06-04-036 (7-26-06).

:)

http://http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh202/Diesel_Day_Dreamin/noturningbacknow.jpg[/quote]

Diesel Day Dreamin-

Do you know what the measuremnet is between the yellow sticker and the hacksaw is? I think any dimentions on where to cut would help us future hacksaw users would realy help. I do like your setup it looks VERY factory... :D

Ok, hopefully someone can help me out here cause I think I've confused myself even more now.

I got my hands on an 06 LBZ mouthpiece... it was $300 from the Chev dealership, bought it on friday. Now I don't got my truck around me right now to compare so I don't really have a good visual of what needs to happen.

I've got an AFE stage 2 intake... so if I take the mouthpiece off my turbo and install the LBZ mouthpiece, what will I have to modify? Am I cutting the new mouthpiece, or am I cutting the intake tube near the bellows?

Ok, hopefully someone can help me out here cause I think I've confused myself even more now.

I got my hands on an 06 LBZ mouthpiece... it was $300 from the Chev dealership, bought it on friday. Now I don't got my truck around me right now to compare so I don't really have a good visual of what needs to happen.

I've got an AFE stage 2 intake... so if I take the mouthpiece off my turbo and install the LBZ mouthpiece, what will I have to modify? Am I cutting the new mouthpiece, or am I cutting the intake tube near the bellows?


300.00 for the mp....yikes

I'll say... Its all these taxes they charge you in british columbia... GST, PST, HST, MST... STD???

I dunno, whatever... It was 260 plus tax. I didn't complain because it sounds like they are in high demand and tough to get so I just paid up.

But anybody got input on what i asked? I read more and got a better idea, but a simple explanation can never hurt.

My question doesn't pertain to the LBZ MP, but for the guys you have re-routed their PCV. First off, what type of plug are you using to plug the hole in the MP? It looks like its about 1" outside and probably 3/4-7/8" inside. I've looked for a rubber type of plug and coming up short of finding one. I suppose I could leave the hose and clamp thats on it and find a 1" sprinkler plug and hose clamp to block it off. Second ?, are you running some type of a filter at the end of the added hose? I know the PCV blows, but when you shut your truck off, doesn't it actually suck for just a second? Not long enough to probably hurt anything its just a thought. I was thinking if I could find an all mesh filter, with no fabric, that way you could pull it off and clean it with some brake clean. Let me here some insight.

I used a 7/8" rubber chair tip from lowes for mine fits nice and snug. with out going out and looking, I can't remember if I put a clamp on it or not. no filter

Do you know what the measuremnet is between the yellow sticker and the hacksaw is? I think any dimentions on where to cut would help us future hacksaw users would realy help. I do like your setup it looks VERY factory... :D

According to the TSB that "stevebos" posted above its 2" :cool:

I just read through all 22 pages of this today. I think I've decided I need to get the kodiak lbz mp. I hate to wait until october, but I've waited this long. Maybe TXC will come up with a better alternative by then ;)

Well before then .. .. . and it'll whip the LBZ one's ass handily. . .. .

Diesel Day Dreamin-

Do you know what the measurement is between the yellow sticker and the hacksaw is? I think any dimentions on where to cut would help us future hacksaw users would realy help. I do like your setup it looks VERY factory... :D[/quote]

2 1/2'' is good. I just laid the pipe on the mouth piece while connected loosely to the filter box and marked where it needed to be cut. The LLY pipe will not slide into the LBZ MP, so I just butted it up against each other and tightened the clamps. Don't forget to remove the burs with a file and wipe out the debris inside. You don't want to suck in material through the turbo.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh202/Diesel_Day_Dreamin/cut.jpg

TSB 06-06-04-036 describes retro - fit of the LBZ intake to the LLY MP. The LLY MAF sensor is used and the ECM is recalibrated.

The current revision of the TSB is 06-06-04-036D JUN 07. I don't have a copy of it; however, I have 06-06-04-036 (7-26-06).

:)

:bow: Oh Thank You, giver of information. I am forever in your debt. ;)

Steve, I wonder if I complain about overheating, they will cover this under warranty and get the rest of the LBZ stuff for free???

Wow! looks like people are getting raped for these Mouth Pieces. :eek: LBZ MPs will be $115. retail at the dealer after the first week in October.

Wow! looks like people are getting raped for these Mouth Pieces. :eek: LBZ MPs will be $115. retail at the dealer after the first week in October.

Agreed. I paid $135, but the extra $20 was for shipping. Well worth it, IMHO. But $300?? Egads! :eek::eek:

Ok, hopefully someone can help me out here cause I think I've confused myself even more now.

I've got an AFE stage 2 intake... so if I take the mouthpiece off my turbo and install the LBZ mouthpiece, what will I have to modify? Am I cutting the new mouthpiece, or am I cutting the intake tube near the bellows?

You will probably need to order an LBZ tube from AFE (that's if the filters are the same between the LLY and LBZ). Isn't the AFE tube more of an ''S'' shape compared to the factory LLY pipe with it's right angle 90° bend? That would be my guess. Anyway, if you do cut it, the cut will aprox. be 9'' from where it connects to the LLY MP now. Hope this helps.

geeze, I paid $75

geeze, I paid $75

Yeah - GM Parts Direct price = $68 + s&h. When I called, they first wanted $198 for it... then they dropped to $115 when I mentioned the GM Parts Direct price... but of course GM PD didn't have any.

Diesel Day Dreamin]

Do you know what the measurement is between the yellow sticker and the hacksaw is? I think any dimentions on where to cut would help us future hacksaw users would realy help. I do like your setup it looks VERY factory... :D

2 1/2'' is good. I just laid the pipe on the mouth piece while connected loosely to the filter box and marked where it needed to be cut. The LLY pipe will not slide into the LBZ MP, so I just butted it up against each other and tightened the clamps. Don't forget to remove the burs with a file and wipe out the debris inside. You don't want to suck in material through the turbo.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh202/Diesel_Day_Dreamin/cut.jpg



:bow: Oh Thank You, giver of information. I am forever in your debt. ;)

Wow! looks like people are getting raped for these Mouth Pieces. :eek: LBZ MPs will be $115. retail at the dealer after the first week in October.

DDD you have been golden in this thread, going above and beyond helping everyone with top notch info. :)

I wonder if I complain about overheating, they will cover this under warranty and get the rest of the LBZ stuff for free???

The LBZ intake parts are $419.06 (including $75.57 S&H) from GMpartsdirect; it can't hurt to try.

I know of three members that have inquired or bought MPs in Canada; IIRC, all were $260.00 CAD list. The exchange rate is roughly the same; perhaps all GM parts are more expensive due to GM's additional distribution - related costs.

Randy, nice writeup. If you had to do it again would you use a Kodiak lbz MP,or a standard lbz MP to hook up to the stock lly intake duct. Sounds like you still need to cut the lly intake duct as with the standard lbz MP. Have waited to see which one shakes out the best and Im not sure which way to go yet. I dont think I will miss the resonator either.


I would get the Kodiak Mouthpiece. Maybe it is where I cut my LLY intake tube, but it cost me $42 for a silicone coupler since it is 4" on one side and the LBZ inlet seems to be 4-1/4. A straight through 4" id coupler would not fit on my lbz mouthpiece. So, with the Kodiak, you can just slide your LLY intake tube on and tighten. 10 minutes and you are done the whole thing.

Is a MAF recalibration required with a Kodiak MP or just when you use a LBZ MP?

I would get the Kodiak Mouthpiece. Maybe it is where I cut my LLY intake tube, but it cost me $42 for a silicone coupler since it is 4" on one side and the LBZ inlet seems to be 4-1/4. A straight through 4" id coupler would not fit on my lbz mouthpiece. So, with the Kodiak, you can just slide your LLY intake tube on and tighten. 10 minutes and you are done the whole thing.

Hmm I had no problem fitting a 4" silicone coupler on my LBZ mouthpeice.

Is a MAF recalibration required with a Kodiak MP or just when you use a LBZ MP?

Niether, only if you use the LBZ tube and filter.

Tx, do you think a recalibration will be required with your "soon to be released" custom MP?

DDD you have been golden in this thread, going above and beyond helping everyone with top notch info. :)


I dont think its at all above and beyond... thats what good people do for others in need and what this entire site is about... :rolleyes:

However, I do APPRECIATE all that is here to help and not take money from all of us!

I dont think its at all above and beyond... thats what good people do for others in need and what this entire site is about... :rolleyes:

However, I do APPRECIATE all that is here to help and not take money from all of us!

I'd say he's gone above and beyond most people in this thread. Don't take it for granted just cause you think "good people" should.

Is a MAF recalibration required with a Kodiak MP or just when you use a LBZ MP?

Nope. IIRC, that's only if you go with the full LBZ intake.

Hmm I had no problem fitting a 4" silicone coupler on my LBZ mouthpeice.

Well, for me one of the questions left to resolve is whether or not having the accordion slightly awry v/s cutting the Kodiak mp and putting in a silicone sleeve to make it look a bit more factory will make any noticeable difference in airflow... that is, enough difference to really matter.

On the one hand, if smoothing out the airflow is serious enough to really matter, an optimum solution would eliminate the accordion altogether... and would avoid altogether a silicon boot too since the joint where you cut and splice with the silicon boot will present a point of disturbance to the airflow too. Comparing the two, the accordion seems to be the greater offender... but I'm no aerodynamics engineer.

So... is it worth the extra $40 to cut the intake or the Kodiak mp and then bridge the two with a silicone sleeve? What would it buy me, besides aligning things a bit? You guys want to weigh in on this and help me decide? I'm inclined to leave it alone.

I would think replacing the stock LLY mouthpiece with the Kodiak would be such an appreciable gain that any small interferance as such bend or accordian would make wouldn't be much of an issue - I'd let it alone unless the slight twist griped me...

I'll say... Its all these taxes they charge you in british columbia... GST, PST, HST, MST... STD???

I dunno, whatever... It was 260 plus tax. I didn't complain because it sounds like they are in high demand and tough to get so I just paid up.

But anybody got input on what i asked? I read more and got a better idea, but a simple explanation can never hurt.


just look at the pictures being posted. You don't cut the mouthpiece, you cut the tube that comes from your intake

I'd say he's gone above and beyond most people in this thread. Don't take it for granted just cause you think "good people" should.


AGAIN, nothing is taken for granted! I just feel if you have the answers WHY NOT help others out? As I said before... thats what good people do and what this entire site is about.... OR at least thats what I thought! If im incorrect PLEASE let me know :eek:

Again, thanks to DDD and everyone on this site that shares there experiences and advice to all here! I and im sure others appreciate all that you do!!

Question for those that have swapped the complete LBZ intake. Is the MAF sensor the same one just recalibrated? or is it a completely different one plus the recalibration? I'm thinkin about swapping the LBZ mouth piece and getting the elbow for the Banks LBZ intake (if i can get just the elbow) since I already have the Banks intake, since the elbow appears to be the only difference between the LLY and the LBZ intakes. That way I would have the best of both worlds (get to keep my intake I already have and have the new mouthpiece). Any thoughts on this?



When the dealer installed mine, they used my current LLY MAF sensor and recalibrated. This worked fine, but when I also installed the MP, I noticed a little lag, so I recalibrated with and 06 and there is more power and great low end now.

I actually went out and measured my 04 intake diameter and the 06 this weekend and it is just under an inch larger. So I multiplied the the 04 MAF numbers by the % change in volume and it is actually very close to the 06 calibration. So if you do install the whole intake I would use the 06 numbers or calculate your own rather than use the GM new calibration (this is of course if you have EFILive).

Tx, do you think a recalibration will be required with your "soon to be released" custom MP?

You will only require MAF table changes if you change the diameter of the piping where the MAF is measuring, so no. The MAF is in the outlet of the airbox, I don't intend to move it or change the airbox lid.

Well before then .. .. . and it'll whip the LBZ one's ass handily. . .. .


Sign me up!

Well before then .. .. . and it'll whip the LBZ one's ass handily. . .. .


How much is this ass wippin going to set me back?

When the dealer installed mine, they used my current LLY MAF sensor and recalibrated. This worked fine, but when I also installed the MP, I noticed a little lag, so I recalibrated with and 06 and there is more power and great low end now.

I actually went out and measured my 04 intake diameter and the 06 this weekend and it is just under an inch larger. So I multiplied the the 04 MAF numbers by the % change in volume and it is actually very close to the 06 calibration. So if you do install the whole intake I would use the 06 numbers or calculate your own rather than use the GM new calibration (this is of course if you have EFILive).

Sweet, sounds good, one less thing to buy. Don't know when i'll be able to do it but good to know ahead of time.

I'm wanting to get EFI Live so I CAN play around with stuff like that, just can't afford it right now:( (unless someone wanted to trade it for my six-gun that is :D)

I would think replacing the stock LLY mouthpiece with the Kodiak would be such an appreciable gain that any small interferance as such bend or accordian would make wouldn't be much of an issue - I'd let it alone unless the slight twist griped me...

IMO - if you are gonna take the time to do the MP upgrade, why not do it right and get the max gain possible? Look at DDD's install - it looks factory. If i'm gonna spend the money (and i am) to do the MP, i'm gonna make sure that the entire install looks factory. If i can gain 10% efficiency in my intact tract by going to a better mouth piece, why loose 1 or 2 % of the gain by botching up the accordian section. I like openning the hood my Dmax and seeing clean installs of all my factory pieces. just my $.02

The MAF is in the outlet of the airbox, I don't intend to move it or change the airbox lid.

So, do you intend to change the tubing from the airbox back (post-MAF)? That would be great, if we could get rid of the accordion tubes (which, I expect, creates some drag, although this could be negligible in the grand scheme of things).

Joseph

So, do you intend to change the tubing from the airbox back (post-MAF)? That would be great, if we could get rid of the accordion tubes (which, I expect, creates some drag, although this could be negligible in the grand scheme of things).

Joseph

Entire thing, from the turbo all the way to the box inlet. Nothing like stock at all either.

How much is this ass wippin going to set me back?

LOL dunno yet, as low as feasible I guess.

LOL dunno yet, as low as feasible I guess.


Tx - what is your ETA?

And

It sounds like it will incorporate the stock LLY air box as well. So, our Tx CAI won't be wasted, right?

Are you gonna dyno the peice?

TX;

I have an aftermarket intake (new box all the way to the LLY M.Piece). The kit actually moved the MAF further away from the intake track. See the below link for the kit I have installed.

http://www.outlawpower.com/productdetail.php?sc=1472

Are you going to offer just the "TX Custom MP" by itself without the new designed intake track?