I'm about to install my new Oilguard Bypass Oil Filter and am trying to determine the best / most convenient place to mount the filter.

Any suggestions?

I hung my Harvard on the frame underneath the driver's seat. How do you plan to return the oil? I return mine in the oil fill tube below the cap.

I'm about to install my new Oilguard Bypass Oil Filter and am trying to determine the best / most convenient place to mount the filter.

Any suggestions? I fabricated a bracket from 3/16"X1 1/ 2" flat steel (kind of looks like a giant "J")and attached to an existing hole in the frame rail under the drivers side floor. Some have have attached directly to the floor pan under the drivers side but have had complaints of vibration comming off the unit. By attachinng to the frame rail you tend to isolate this. I modifiied my oil filler cap using a swivel fitting sold by Amsoil for the return line. I think Oil Guard now sells the modified cap with this feature. I'm happy with my setup, very good quality.

I havent really read up on the by-pass oil filters much, and maybe this has been discussed previously. But I read an article in a truck magazine a while back that said oil filters with a 1 or 2 micron filtering capacity can and will actually remove oil additive "packages" added in by oil manufacturers. This true or BS. I think the article was an ad for rotella T in (overdrive or Owner/Op magazine)
Bill

They will not remove additives because the additives are at the molecular level. Oil bypass filtration will actually free up the add pack by removing contaminants that depleat it and cause it to be less effective over time. Oil analysis after 8K shows my add pack to be at the same level as unused oil. You can get the unused oil numbers @ bobistheoilguy.com. A good example would be detergents. If you mix a container of detergent and add dirt it will no longer make suds or clean well. Then if you allow the dirt to settle and take out the clear fluid it will make suds and clean once again.

Yea, what he said. Harvard Corporation, which markets bypass filters for industrial equipment, has numerous testimonials for tractor trailer engines going over a million miles w/o an oil change. Additives that do get depleted are replaced with add oil, and when filters are replaced. However, I highly recommend an oil analysis program. Let the lab tell you if the oil needs changed. As you sample oil over time, you will see trends in the results that can show you things about the engine that you would have to tear it down to find out. Oil analysis will show things like small amounts of fuel dilution and presence of coolant that wouldn't be noticed otherwise.

Behind the OE oil filter on the INSIDE of the frame there are 3 factory holes in the frame. I drilled these holes a little bigger and had a friend weld a custom bracket for these holes. The bracket is pretty big in order to reach all 3 factory holes, but it is 100% solid. the actual Oilguard unit is suspended by the bracket about 12-15 inches from the OE oil filter. This made the lines from the OE filter spacer to the unit and from the unit to the oil pan really short. (I used the oil pan fitting, not the oil fill cap fitting). You are using the spacer between the OE oil filter and the OE filter mount, right?

I also covered the oil lines with another hose, bigger in diameter and split down the middle to protect the oil lines from cuts or debris. I used zip ties to hold them on the oil lines, and I used more zip ties to hold the lines tight to the frame. Maybe some day I will post pictures, it is pretty slick. SPICER

Made a bracket and mounted mine in the 2nd alternator position. Return flow to a swivel in the oil fill cap.

I didn't use a spacer under the factory oil filter. There is a plug below the oil filter that I removed to feed the filter.

Made a bracket and mounted mine in the 2nd alternator position. Return flow to a swivel in the oil fill cap.
I did the same, except my fitting in the oil cap isn't a swivel, it's just a -4 90* fitting

You are using the spacer between the OE oil filter and the OE filter mount, right?

I also covered the oil lines with another hose, bigger in diameter and split down the middle to protect the oil lines from cuts or debris. I used zip ties to hold them on the oil lines, and I used more zip ties to hold the lines tight to the frame. Maybe some day I will post pictures, it is pretty slick. SPICERYes, I have the newer unit that has the spacer between the OE oil filter and mount plus the return back to the filler cap.

The mounting you describe sounds like a great way to do it - thanks, I'll try to duplicate it.

Spicer,

Pictures would be great as well as details on the custom bracket.

What do you mean you don't want to crawl under there this time of year :exactly:

Thanks,
Michael

I was going to make a bracket and hang it from the frame, but ended up through-bolting to the floor boards. I've had no vibration issues at all.

TC

I was going to make a bracket and hang it from the frame, but ended up through-bolting to the floor boards. I've had no vibration issues at all.

TCBelow the drivers seat?

I don't have a picture of it, but it's more or less under the peddles, on the flat part of the floor just before it rises to meet the firewall.

TC

I am not sure what you guys are talking about in relation to the return to the oil filler cap ??? I thought that it was just a screw on mount to the oem filter point with a supply and a return line to the full flow and bypass filters mounted remotely. is there more plumbing involved?

I don't have a picture of it, but it's more or less under the peddles, on the flat part of the floor just before it rises to meet the firewall.

TCThanks for the description!

I am not sure what you guys are talking about in relation to the return to the oil filler cap ??? I thought that it was just a screw on mount to the oem filter point with a supply and a return line to the full flow and bypass filters mounted remotely. is there more plumbing involved?


Ogre,

Sounds like you are describing the Amsoil by-pass system. The Oilguard approach is different, where the factory full flow filter remains on the OEM block mounting location, and the Oilguard by-pass filter has it's own mounting head, located remotely.

Lots of different ways to install the OilGuard unit. The sandwich adapter fits between the OEM filter and the oil filter manifold on the block and feeds the flow to the by-pass according to their web site. The adapter doesn't appear to be for the return flow as that is accomplished by their modified drain plug in the kit. The adapter did away with the problems that people were having removing the plug from the oil filter manifold in order to get flow to the by-pass. The return can be to the oil pan plug from OilGuard or back up to the filler cap with a little extra plumbing and an extra fitting or into the oil filler neck itself. Either way it's pretty simple and straight forward.

I Cut a piece of 1/2" x 6" x 8" aluminum flat stock and bolted it to the drivers underside of the cross member w/ 4 Stainless 1/4 " bolts so the flat stock would extend to the front of the cross member to mount the Oil Guard. I then mounted the Oil Guard filter on the top of the flat bar. It's well out of harms way above the cross member and rock solid. Very easy to drain and service.

I installed the Oilguard bypass filter today. Was real easy and took about 2 hours, including changing the oil and clean up for the whole job.

I mounted it to the floor board below the drivers feet area on a floor board support 'beam', directly behind the OEM oil filter. It was very simple and effective.

Thanks to everyone for their descriptions and help.

What did you guys do about the carpet? I am about to install it myself, and too was wondering where to mount the stupid thing.

It's not stuck down. Pull up the plastic door sill and the carpet comes right up. That will give you plenty of room to fiddle around.

TC

I saw someone had neoprene between the mount and the floor. Is that a good idea or just overkill? Is the noise really that bad with the rattle?

I originally mounted my Amsoil aux filter to the aluminum pan under the driver's floor. There's no rattle, but there IS a very noticable and irritating "Whoooo" flow noise when oil is flowing through the filter mount. I rubber isolated the plate mounting bolts and even shot the air gap between the plate and the floorboard with urethane foam before finally pulling the rig off and going back to an OEM-style cartridge. A year or so later, I re-installed and remounted the dual remote to a bracket mounted on the frame rail. That's the only way to go. Good solid mounting, nearly identical clearance and no noise or vibration.

I can't remember who makes that bracket, but do you know if it would work with oilguard just like amsoil?

What chatter said. The noise I think sounded somewhat like alternator whine coming from your stereo, as rpms increase so does the whir sound. Just plain annoying. I mounted mine on the frame rail under the driver’s floorboard. If you look under your p/u you'll see a diamond cut out on the rail and 2 pre drilled holes to the right. Check out the pics on amsoils web site here for some reference...
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
https://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/preston/index.aspx (https://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/preston/index.aspx)
<o:p></o:p>
I mounted mine in the same location except I wanted the filters vertical. I think horizontal filters would make a mess. A vertical filter gets messy but at least the oil doesn’t run down the torsion bar and frame.<o:p></o:p>

If you have the means you could make your own bracket like I did that extends out over the t-bar and also guards the filter.<o:p></o:p>

Greg sells a ready-made bracket on his site...
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http://www.lubespecialist.com/ (http://www.lubespecialist.com/)
<o:p></o:p>
I didn't see any pics of his setup but maybe he'll chime in.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Hope that helps a little.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Yeah that's who it is -- Greg. But does it work for oilguard?

You could always mount in the 2nd alternator position. Easily accessible.

Run mine like that for over a year now. I know MASTERP2 thuoght it was the dumbest idea in the world, but it works for me and a couple of others!

Speaking of MASTERP2 (or mosquitop2, as some affectionately called him), anyone know what happened to him? I don't see him posting anymore. I miss is "unique" perspective on things.

Not a very good picture of the bracket I sell for the Amsoil setup. It is already drilled for the Amsoil but the Oil Guard would work as well you would have to most likely drill another hole. Will get you out past the torsion bar, is made of 10ga powder coated steel with a gusset in the corner for added strenght.

Greg
http://www.lubricationspecialistllc.com/ebay/bypass.jpg

Greg -- pm sent.

I fabbed a bracket and hung my Amsoil from the unused heat shield bolts on the cab floor. I used braided steel hose and get a lot of oil pump whine in the cab. :mad: As soon as the weather warms enough so I can work under it, I will build a frame mount, can't live with the noise much longer.

anyone in the Dallas/Fort Worth area that could do this to my truck? or a shop you could recommend? thanks

anyone in the Dallas/Fort Worth area that could do this to my truck? or a shop you could recommend? thanks IMHO, the OilGuard is easy enough to do yourself. If you get Greg's bracket,
so is Amsoil's kit. I don't know of a shop here in Dallas that I would
recommend - mainly because I do all my own work so I don't have
any experience with any particular shop.

Someone mentioned a slight whine with the OilGuard mounted to the cab
floor. Since it was mentioned, I checked and have noticed this if the radio
is off, but it sounded more like it was the transmission to me.
Here's some pictures (http://207.53.239.181/%7Eterry/truck/ByPass-Filters/) of my installation. Hope it helps....

good luck,

T.

IMHO, the OilGuard is easy enough to do yourself. If you get Greg's bracket,
so is Amsoil's kit. I don't know of a shop here in Dallas that I would
recommend - mainly because I do all my own work so I don't have
any experience with any particular shop.

Someone mentioned a slight whine with the OilGuard mounted to the cab
floor. Since it was mentioned, I checked and have noticed this if the radio
is off, but it sounded more like it was the transmission to me.
Here's some pictures (http://207.53.239.181/%7Eterry/truck/ByPass-Filters/)of my installation. Hope it helps....

good luck,

T.
Thanks for the input, it's not that i cant do it, I just dont have the time to do it. I work 70-80 hours a week M-S and rarely have time to do the things I really want to do:( Hopefully ill get some time off by May to do it, was just hoping there was a reputable shop or person out there i could entrust to install it.....

Greg's bracket works well for the oilguard as well. I will take pictures...

As you can see Greg's bracket worked out great. It gets it well over the torsion bar, and into a nice area. I would highly recommend this for all oilguard owners -- not to mention amsoil.

Here's the link if the picture doesn't work...
www.villagephotos.com/image.asp?id_=12461016

http://www.villagephotos.com/image.asp?id_=12461016

http://www.ezprints.com/Album/images/3/18035620_img.jpg

Picture should work now...

SethMcKinney,

Could you check again or post a link to the picture. I'm not sure where it is supposed to be. It isn't appearing in the post.

Thanks,
Michael

I put the link above the photo -- if that doesn't work I don't know what else to do...

SethMcKinney,

I tried the link and it says it is denied. I checked the host and they say linking is allowed so maybe it is a permission problem or something.

Thanks for trying,
Michael

I put the link above the photo -- if that doesn't work I don't know what else to do...
A lot of online photo servers will not allow direct linking to other sites, my Yahoo Photos does not. Go to the "advanced" in you post and use "file management" to upload the photos directly into your post from your local computer, not the file server.

If this doesn't work I will quit the internet...



http://dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3811&stc=1

SethMcKinney,

Way to go!!!:ro) Not only included but attached as well ;) Thanks for keeping at it and :grd:

Looks like a nice install. I'm working on my bracket currently and can use all the pictures I can find. One thing I was wondering was why you used the 90degree fittings on the head. I haven't checked but I figured if I was to mount it horizontal I would just run the lines in and only use the 90s for a vertical install. Or maybe you have it setup so you can tip it down for filter changes??

Thanks!
Michael

I'd love to sound smart, but those just came with the kit :) I would have liked to have them the other direction, but I was afraid they would be too loose so I just tightened up that way. If I turned it around I wouldn't have access to the oil sample valve. Having it straight up and down is not what I wanted. That thing is big, therefore, it sticks down quite a bit. I wanted all the clearance I could get. It's not moving from sideways unless you REALLy torque on those bolts.

SethMcKinney,

Yes I know what you mean. I was crawling under last night working some more on my mounting bracket and figured I should open the parts bag up and check the fittings. The angle fittings are NPT to JIC so I guess I'll be using them as well or getting adaptors. And in trying to fit the can it does hang down quite a bit. I think I'll steal your idea and mount it horizontal. And with the 4" of offset I figure I'll need to get it clear of the torsion bar the 90s will help keep the hoses up and out of the way. Looking at the included pictures it appears they show it mounted behind the crossmember and in front of the fuel cooler at a right angle to the frame. In that position the way your lines exit would be just right. I'm curious to see if mine end up in the same orientation when I get done.

Thanks,
Michael

Good luck -- after mounting it (which was difficult) everything else was a breeze.

sorry for the dumb question. but im still new to the mechanic's on trucks. what exactly does the bypass filter do? whats the advantage to this sense you have an oil filter already?

Me too till you read up on this forum. Trust me 3 months ago I knew nothing (I still don't know very much).

"The primary job of your vehicle's standard full flow filter is to trap large contamination particles ranging in size from 15-40 microns, while at the same time allowing 7-10 gallons of oil to pass through the filter per minute."

"OilGuard's ultra-fine 1-micron bypass filtration system allows you to SAFELY double your oil change interval. Many owners of our system have been able to triple or quadrupple oil change intervals. In addition to extending your oil change interval, filtering to 1 micron dramatically decreases engine wear, thereby providing extended engine life."

Basically it is a secondary filter that will filter all the oil about every 15 minutes -v- the full flow filter that filters it all much quicker.

www.oilguard.com That should help.

ahhh thank you very much. would you reccommend it for a hard working gasser? and how much do they cost and how much are ther filters and how hard is it to install a new filter every oil change?

sorry for the q's im a newbie and im deff. gettin a chevy or gmc gasser soon.

I am sure it would be just the same for a gasser -- HOWEVER, I am not positive -- I just don't see why it would be any different. It will just help engine life.

I plan on changing both full flow, oilguard, and oil at 10k. Some replace full flow every 5k and then do the oilguard at 15k with a full oil change.

SOME even push the envelope even further by extending everything out to over 20k. Do a search for user "SPICER". You will see some interesting stuff.

It wouldn't be hard to change the bypass filter. Same as changing a full flow. Untwist -- except the inside element is replaceable.