Hey guys,

New to the furom and diesels in general. I've been tinkering with and reading as much as I can, on this forum and others, to get this thing running again, and still need help.

I've only had this truck since september, and it slowly stopped wanting to start easily since. Now it's sat for over 2 months since it ran last. Thinking that the problem was the batteries, I replaced both (military 24 volt setup), with some 800CCA Interstate batteries. This didn't help, and the engine still didn't kick over.

After continual reading I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump and box style filter, primed and bleed the fuel system to get out any air, or at least I think I did.

Now once the glow plugs cycle, there doesn't seem to be enough juice to crank the engine for more than 2 or 3 turns. Also, 2 of the 8 glow plugs are bad (so I unplugged them). Is that enough to keep the engine from firing?

I'm frustrated now because I can't bleed out the air if I can't crank the engine over a few times. I don't know if the starter is bad or the batteries aren't powerful enough, or if there is still air in the lines, or......

Any and all suggestions would be appreciated because I'm ready to put a torch to this thing!

Thanks,
Dean

Grape, need information, year, model, ect. I suspect it is a 12 volt system using 2 batteries. The idea is more amps not volts. The batteries should be wired pos to pos and neg to neg. A Haynes manual isn't the greatest but it will give you a lot of good information.

If the batteries are good the problem is probably with the starter. You can remove it and take it to a good parts house. They can check it out. If the starter is bad get a good one if you can afford it. The original Delcos don't cut it. I buy Nippon-Denso, more money but a lot better starter. These engines need to crank at 100 RPM to start properly.

Once you find out what is causing the cranking problem, batteries and/or starter, and make repairs, then move on to fuel. Did you eplace the fuel lift pump or the injector pump? You have already changed the filter, that's good. Next make sure your fuel system is delivering the proper amount of fuel at the proper pressure.

You need all the glow plugs working. Replace the 2 bad glow plugs. Usually starting problems with these engines aren't all that difficult or costly to repair. I start with the easy stuff. Don't panic and start throwing a lot of money at it. First find out what the problem or problems are, that will give you a good idea of what it will cost to repair. Please keep us posted on your progress. Good luck. Mike

Thanks Slomoe,

Sorry, I forgot to add that the CUCV is an '85 truck with the 6.2L diesel. Since it's a military rig, it's a 24 volt system. I replaced the mech pump on the side of the engine, not the injector pump.
I'll start by taking the starter out and getting it checked. Hope it's not that because it will run me $350 for a new one, since it's a 24v one.

Dean

Don't spend big bucks on a 24v starter right off the bat because you might be able to convert your engine over to 12v pretty simple. Can't give you the definates but some things on the engine run off of 12v, like the injection pump fuel solenoid and others. Did you wire your batteries correctly for 24 volts? To take 2 12v batteries and make 24 volts, you have to wire + of one battery to - or the other battery, ground the remaining - and run the remaining + to engine.:confused:

Sounds definitely like an electrical problem, probably starter, but I'd at least check for anything obvious with the wiring since pulling the starter is kind of painful. It's up to you, but I think lots of CUCV guys wait for the starter to go and then convert to 12V. The starter and part of the glow plug system are 24V, I don't think anything else is. My CUCV already had the glow plug system converted to civilian style so I don't know what's what with that exactly.

Anyway, if you decide to go to 12V, here's the instructions:

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

Thanks Guys,

Yeah, I already had that article printed out Mastiff. Thanks. I was planning on doing that if the starter was bad, and half as expensive the 24v starter along. Yeah, it really looks like a pain to get the starter out, but I see what I can do. Any tips to make it easier?

Camilleri, I very well could have crossed the wires when I was putting the batteries back in, but I thought I was careful, because I did one at a time. I'll double check, but it's harder to follow the wires on a CUCV because all the wire run back to a block, not to each other battery.

Thanks,
Dean

Thanks Guys,

Yeah, I already had that article printed out Mastiff. Thanks. I was planning on doing that if the starter was bad, and half as expensive the 24v starter along. Yeah, it really looks like a pain to get the starter out, but I see what I can do. Any tips to make it easier?

Camilleri, I very well could have crossed the wires when I was putting the batteries back in, but I thought I was careful, because I did one at a time. I'll double check, but it's harder to follow the wires on a CUCV because all the wire run back to a block, not to each other battery.

Thanks,
Dean
Do you have the wiring diagrams for the starter circuit? I could probably send them to you somehow if you don't. Maybe you got the wires cross and only have 12V to the starter. That would explain your symptoms.

I've only replaced a starter once, and I didn't do the work since it broke away from home and I had to be towed. -:t I asked to keep the starter since the motor was still good (the nose broke off) and I was amazed how heavy. That was on a K5 Blazer. I bet a CUCV starter weighs 50 pounds or more. Be very careful not to drop it on your face or something!

Thanks Mastiff,

I think I do, since I have a manual on CD for the military truck. Now if I can only find it on the 600+ pages of info...hehehehe!
I'll let you know.
Thanks,
Dean

grape ape,

check the voltage at the starter solenoid stud and make sure you have 24 volts. Make sure all connections are clean and tight. If you have 24 volts, check the cranking volts for voltage drop. Pulling the starter is easy. If you have 24 volts at starter and cranking is still slow, pull starter and inspect solenoid contacts. Solenoid can be taken apart and the stud can be rotated 180 degrees to get a new contact area. Be carefull as there is a wire that stays attached when removing solenoid cover. Make sure you remove nuts from small studs also .:grd:

If I remember right the starter, glow plugs, blackout drive, and military radio connections are the only 24V stuff. There is also a resistor for the glowplugs mounted on the firewall. It's about 6" long and mounted above the motor near the vacuum pump. We had a lot of problems smoking these. You do need 24v plugs so if you have 6 gone I'd think about a 12V conversion. You could go poor man conversion and wire them to a Ford starter solenoid and toggle switch and run them by hand and use 12V plugs. I'd start with previous recommendations posted. If you can get it to roll over fast enough disconnect the plugs, give'r a squirt, and hold the pedal to the floor.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Actually the only true 24v item on the truck (minus the radio connections) is the starter. Everything else is 12v.

I haven't had a chance at all to even look at the truck since we had an early arrival to add to our family, but I'll get back on it as soon as I can.

Thanks,
Dean