Hi all, been a while since I've posted.

Well, I finally got the impetus to park the '83 in the garage and start the fuel system/gp/turbo/exhaust+some other stuff project I've been putting off for the past 9 months.

The radiator apparently disintegrated the other night just as I was pulling into a local restaurant with the family for my youngest son's birthday. Lost all the fluid all at once. Luckily all I needed to do was park so the engine didn't overheat even a little bit. We had a nice leisurely dinner and then came out and started her up, dumped a couple gallons of water in real quick because it seemed to leak less when the fluid was circulating, and drove the 1.5 miles home. It didn't even get up to operating temperature that time so I feel pretty lucky it panned out like it did. The kids didn't even know there was a problem :)

So, I figure this is a good omen for a few reasons:
1) we are planning a 2500-3000 mile trip to CA in the fall and this is an excellent time for stuff like this to fail.
2) I can pull the grill and the radiator support and open the engine bay up real wide which will make it a whole lot easier to work on all the other stuff I want to do.
3) I have the space and opportunity to do some other work on the motor since I've got the front opened up like maybe adding a new harmonic balancer or rubber backed crank pulley.

Anyways, here's where I could use some advice:

Looking at the radiator, there are a *lot* of connections that I wouldn't normally see on my other cars/trucks. Some of them look like lines from the AC. Can anyone give me an idea of what kind of connections I'm looking at, if I need to be concerned about venting any freon, and any other pitfalls/good-to-knows as I dig into this?

As far as getting the new unit, are there different types based on various options on the truck, like AC, oil cooler, trans cooler, etc?

Finally, any good sources for radiators besides Rockauto? They have a few choices for under $400, just wondering if there are other reputable vendors to compare with.

Thanks and I should be posting a lot more as I get this project under way, hopefully some good info and not just questions!

Those A/C lines are probably the engine oil cooler lines on the passenger side correct? Tranny cooler lines are on the drivers side. It's not that hard to swap the radiator but it's messy. Have fun.

Nope, they're not A/C lines, but they are a bit of a pitfall.

When you go to change that radiator you'll have an upper hose, a lower hose, two engine oil cooler lines on the passenger side, two transmission cooler lines on the driver's side, and an electrical connection on the passenger side which is for the low coolant light.

The transmission cooler lines have flare fittings similar to a brake line and usually come out without too much trouble.

The oil cooler lines are a different story. They use aluminum lines like an air conditioning system as you noticed. They have special fittings at the radiator. On an old rusty truck you'll probably go to turn the nut holding those lines on and break the line because it's corroded to the nut... Incidentally, don't ask why they routed the lines the way they did, I have no idea.

Luckily, there are options if your lines are corroded like that (there is a chance they won't be):

1) Do like I did the first time I had to mess with these, break them off, buy new lines at the dealer. The aluminum section cost me $75 for both lines.

2) Plan ahead, like I did the next time... Remove the fan, pull the radiator shroud (you'll probably have to anyway), disconnect the aluminum section of the lines from the flexible section at the fittings near the steering box, and pull those sections of the lines with the radiator. Then, spray them down good with PB Blaster, let them soak, and loosen the nuts, turning the lines with the nuts to prevent them from breaking. Once everything breaks free from the radiator you'll probably be able to free the nuts from the line.

Nope, they're not A/C lines, but they are a bit of a pitfall.

When you go to change that radiator you'll have an upper hose, a lower hose, two engine oil cooler lines on the passenger side, two transmission cooler lines on the driver's side, and an electrical connection on the passenger side which is for the low coolant light.

The transmission cooler lines have flare fittings similar to a brake line and usually come out without too much trouble.

The oil cooler lines are a different story. They use aluminum lines like an air conditioning system as you noticed. They have special fittings at the radiator. On an old rusty truck you'll probably go to turn the nut holding those lines on and break the line because it's corroded to the nut... Incidentally, don't ask why they routed the lines the way they did, I have no idea.

Luckily, there are options if your lines are corroded like that (there is a chance they won't be):

1) Do like I did the first time I had to mess with these, break them off, buy new lines at the dealer. The aluminum section cost me $75 for both lines.

2) Plan ahead, like I did the next time... Remove the fan, pull the radiator shroud (you'll probably have to anyway), disconnect the aluminum section of the lines from the flexible section at the fittings near the steering box, and pull those sections of the lines with the radiator. Then, spray them down good with PB Blaster, let them soak, and loosen the nuts, turning the lines with the nuts to prevent them from breaking. Once everything breaks free from the radiator you'll probably be able to free the nuts from the line.

Thanks for the detailed advice, this is super helpful. I'm hoping those oil cooler lines are in good shape, there's nothing rusty at all and the radiator was "repaired" just a few years ago.

I'll try to take pics as I go and post for the next victim.

$75 for these lines? I was at a dealer, they said it's about $400 for the lines and hoses and fittings ...

$75 for these lines? I was at a dealer, they said it's about $400 for the lines and hoses and fittings ...

Well, I am going to hope that I can get the originals off without any damage. I'm ordering a Ready-Rad from Rockauto and they come with the TOC fittings as well.

Let's hope it works ...

Make sure the new radiator has enough cores and does have the right size. It would be very troublesome if it turns out too small ...

Yeah, it's $400 if you get a complete set of lines with the flexible sections and all that. $75 if you just buy the aluminum section that goes in front of the fan. It's been a year or two since I did that though so it may have changed a bit.

If you buy only those but not the rest of it, what do you from there? Is it possible to get away with only those and make something up for the rest?

The 45 degree fittings I screwed into the outlets on the block have started rusting, and I haven't found 45 degree brass fittings anywhere. I'll have to replace them before they are rusted in so badly that they cannot be removed anymore :/

If you buy only those but not the rest of it, what do you from there? Is it possible to get away with only those and make something up for the rest?

The 45 degree fittings I screwed into the outlets on the block have started rusting, and I haven't found 45 degree brass fittings anywhere. I'll have to replace them before they are rusted in so badly that they cannot be removed anymore :/
try fastenall i know they have a part # for them i will look up tonight

If you buy only those but not the rest of it, what do you from there? Is it possible to get away with only those and make something up for the rest?


I think we're talking about two different projects. You're looking at it from the perspective of a person attempting to replace his oil cooler lines, I'm looking at it from the perspective of someone attempting to replace his radiator. Two different goals.

If all you're doing is attempting to replace a line you broke getting the radiator out you just disconnect the section of the line that goes in front of the fan. The rest of the lines will be in the same condition they were before, no reason to mess with them.

I think we're talking about two different projects. You're looking at it from the perspective of a person attempting to replace his oil cooler lines, I'm looking at it from the perspective of someone attempting to replace his radiator. Two different goals.


Yes, of course --- I'm asking because it might be a way to get the side tank working again.

try fastenall i know they have a part # for them i will look up tonight

Thanks! It looks like they'll have what I'm looking for :)

Ah, that's right, you have that aftermarket cooler. Do you have the flexible portion of the lines, or is it all aftermarket? You might be able to get a hydraulic shop to make lines for you...

Nothing of the stock setup was left (except for the side tank). I was at two hydraulic shops, but they don't have the fittings. They could make hoses with some standard fittings for $$, but I don't exactly see the advantage. The oil cooler I have is too small in the heat here, but a larger one would keep the oil too cold when/where it's colder. And 6.2s don't show up on junkyards here.