I eclipsed the 70K mile mark sometime back and this past weekend I decided to rotate the tires and conduct a brake inspection. Under the assumption that the brakes would be pretty far worn with 70K+miles, I bought new ones in advance. So I got the truck all off the ground and got to removing the wheels. Upon my inspection I looked at the brake pads and they look brand newhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif. So I mic'd the new pads then mic'd the pads still in the truck. They are still at about 80%....The rears mic'd the same. Actually all 4 corners mic'd very uniformily. I am the original owner of the truck and have not replaced the pads, they are the pads delivered with the truck. I tow a 11Klb trailer routinely as some of you may know, I also tow a boat and this is my daily driver and I drive in bumper to bumper traffic.


What is everybody else finding with their brake pad life?


I am used to 30K miles and they are toast. My previously owned 93 and 96 Dually would last about that long, then be spent. Now I understand that with 4 wheel discs it will increase brake stability and assist in front pad longevity...Just curious. At this rate I will be able to go well over 120K miles before I am required to change them...


Jeff

Jeff


I just broke 40K on my 02 and, like yours, has the original pads. I rotated the tires last week and inspected the brakes. The pads were like brand new and the rotors were smooth with no grooves at all.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif Very impressive. I hope to get 100K out of em'.


Chris

A local auto repair shop told me he had a customer that pulled a loaded trailer with a 1 ton Ford PSD with a manual transmission, and had to replace the brakes about every 30,000 to 40,00 miles. The customes got a new 02 D/A Dually and had over 70,000 miles and still original brakes. He said it was the Allison Transmission that was saving the brakes. After pulling my 28 ft. 5th wheel this summer I can see why the brakes last so long. The transmission does a lot of the braking for you.

Got to love that transmission but I would rather replace the brakeshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif

55,000 miles, brakes checked during oil change... pads had 75% left on them...... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

One of the things the salesmen all bragged about when the new 2500HD and 3500 came along as 2001s was that they should have 4 times better brake life than their predecessors. Since my old '91 is past 200,000 miles on the original pads (ain't asbestos great?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif) I guess I should expect 800,000 or more from these.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif

I have 92k on my truck and replaced my shoes and pads. I have some questions if someone may know? One, My shoes were worn on the ends only, so replaced! What would cause this? Two, My inside pad on the passenger side was just about worn down to an 1/8 of a inch and the outside pad about 3/8". The driver side had a whole lot more. lol. They were replaced as well.


Now to throw the loop in to the bunch. What would cause a front end shimmy around 40 MPH while breaking only? It did it before and after the brakes were replaced? I don't think the rotors are warped but not ruling it out?


HELP, lol

Ok, I just went through this myself. 65,000 miles on the odometer and the original brake pads still had at least 50% left on them. I was getting some pulsation on the brakes so I decided to have the rotors turned. The only problem was that the rotors had worn much faster than the stock pads. The front rotors couldn't be safely turned and the rear ones were toast.


Cost of front pads: $250/pair


Cost of rear pads: $250/pair


Cost of front rotors: $150


Cost of rear rotors: $800


It's great that the stock pads last so long, but the cost of replacing the rotors far exceeds the advantage. I did find the rear rotors for about $550/pair. It was recommended by some that I replace the pads with softer pads to save the rotors, but I really like the grip of the stock pads and I didn't want to deal with the dust typically associated with softer pads.

equis,


Might be a stuck caliper. I think heartbeatcanada had the same problem and he pulled his caliper off and fixed it. I had a brake issue that felt like a stuck caliper about a month ago, come to find out that both parking brake assemblies were full of rust and there was even some rust on the slides the pads sit on. The dealer cleaned and lubed certain spots and it's better now. I don't know if it's 100% gone because from time to time it feels like something still may be dragging but it's alot better than before.


The shimmy can be warped rotors but that's just a thought. Hope it helps.


LA DMAX

>Cost of front pads: $250/pair


>Cost of rear pads: $250/pair


>Cost of front rotors: $150


>Cost of rear rotors: $800


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


The rotors for my ol' 95 K1500 were like 30 bucks a piece. *cough* *gasp* *wheez*Edited by: CStone

You got ripped off. Sorry man but you should have atleast checked around.


I just purchased (like today) pads and rotors all the way around for 650.31 from raceshopper.com.


Oh and these are High Performance Hawk pads and Powerslot Rotors.


Oh my brakes hav 53k on them and the rears are shot. Front are about 50%. But I have been known to do a Brake stand once and awhile.





Ok, I just went through this myself. 65,000 miles on the odometer and the original brake pads still had at least 50% left on them. I was getting some pulsation on the brakes so I decided to have the rotors turned. The only problem was that the rotors had worn much faster than the stock pads. The front rotors couldn't be safely turned and the rear ones were toast.


Cost of front pads: $250/pair


Cost of rear pads: $250/pair


Cost of front rotors: $150


Cost of rear rotors: $800


It's great that the stock pads last so long, but the cost of replacing the rotors far exceeds the advantage. I did find the rear rotors for about $550/pair. It was recommended by some that I replace the pads with softer pads to save the rotors, but I really like the grip of the stock pads and I didn't want to deal with the dust typically associated with softer pads.

I have 82,000 miles and brakes all the way around are still at least 50% left.

You got ripped off. Sorry man but you should have atleast checked around.





Maybe so, but I wanted to stay with the OEM setup. I do a lot of trailering and I was concerned with using aftermarket products (I've heard lots of good and bad about them).


I'd be interested in knowing if the aftermarket replacements last as long as the OEMs (approximately 80,000 miles).

Ok, so where did you get the front rotors for $150. Inquiring minds want to know. Then I will replace the front calipers also for like $23 a piece too. Hopefully that will do it:)

I called my local Chevy Stealership. Prices are as follows and I recieve no special discout or anything.


Front and rear Pads = 142 per set


Front Rotors= 133 EACH


Rear Rotors = 189 EACH


Ryan Chevrolet in Minot North Dakota.

OMG, you sure? My dealership here wanted a bit over $400 a peice for my front rotors. I will have to call another dealership!

I would never have paid $800 for two rotors. That is ridiculous for factory replacements. Not to mention $250 for brake pads. That is highway robbery anyway you cut it. The prices don't even make sense. It sounds like some dealers are just ripping people off. No big surprise there...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif

Yes I am serious. I posted the name of the dealership. Call if you think I am lying. I think that thier priced are like WAY high still. But 800 is just insane.


Like I said before go to raceshopper.com and they have good prices on high quality upgrade pads and rotors.


I called and talked to hawk for about 45 minutes. SUPER helpful.t they are designed to do. They have the standard hipo pads that are the HPS and then they have a heavy duty application HPSD. Compounds are significantly different. The HPS is designed for hard initial bite and Reduced fade. The HPSD is designed for Even Further reduced fade and Longevity with high heat situation.


The guy didn't own a Dmax, but did have a 02 Ferd and pulled a 5wheel. Asked me what my usual load was and how often I pulled it. I said that I pulled about 25-50% of the time and my load was either my Harley or my Jeep. No camper or anything. He recommended the HPS pads. They do pads for a living so I took them at thier word. Here are the Part Numbers I ordered.


Front= HB322F.717


Rear= HB323F.724


If you want the HPSD just remove the "F" and insert a "P".


Even though they do not make rotors the guy went on to recommend the powerslot rotors because of the slotting style they use. It is not a fully slotted or vented rotor as traditionally thought. Its slots are not all the way through the rotor. This is helping with the warping associated with sloted and vented rotors. But the slots are still deep enough and taked to the outer diameter to allow for gas venting.


For those that don't know Brake fade is caused by Gas trapped between the rotor and pad. Gas is caused by heat. Heat by friction. However we want friction! Afterall that is what stops us. So brakes must be designed to deal with the Heat and Gas. Slotted and vented rotors do a great job dealing with the gas. However the design is inherently weaker than a standard solid rotor and hence they have a tendancy to warp.


I have run Vented rotors on my Jeep for many years. Luckily my rotors are big enough and the Jeep light enough that I have not needed to worry about the extreme heat buildup and warping of the vented rotors. Our Big Pickups are a different story.


They small rotors and huge weight equal bad juju. That is where the Powerslot rotors come in. They are solid but with machined slots to vent the gas. In theory they are the best of both worlds.


Powerslot Part numbers


Front=8692PSL and PSR


Rear= 8691PSL and PSR


I have yet to recieve or install them but assure you that I will report good or bad as to thier performance.Edited by: Alaska Duramax

I think I see why mine are so expensive? My rear drum is like 100 pounds and the front rotor is 45 pounds. My truck is a dually also. I have found the front rotors for 150 now, but not sure if I am going to go with the slotted rotors due to the loads I haul. Here is the only pic of my truck I have.





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/1B4_truck.jpg

I have read that many guys are getting over 100,000 miles before the front need replaced, and at those miles the rear look very good.


I have 55,000 miles and they all four look like new.


I had an 97 Z71 with 11" of lift and 37" tires, and I had to replace the fronts evey 50,000 or so , while the rears was good for about 100,000 miles. Amd with that truck, I had to replace the front rotors and rear drums at approximately 186,000 miles. (14 bolt rear) the cost was up around $400 if I remember correctly. $125 a piece for the rear drums, compared too $40 each for the 10 bolt on most 1/2 tons.


The way I look at it is, the bigger the truck, the more it cost to play/work.

Alaska Duramax,


Let us know how the break upgrade goes and how hard a job they were to change. I am thinking about going with the same setup and would appreciate your input on the rotors and pads. Good luck with it...


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I called my local Chevy Stealership. Prices are as follows and I recieve no special discout or anything.


Front and rear Pads = 142 per set


Front Rotors= 133 EACH


Rear Rotors = 189 EACH


Ryan Chevrolet in Minot North Dakota.





I was curious how you got a quote from a dealership that was so much cheaper than what I found so I called your dealership (Ryan Chevrolet) in Minot and talked to Jerry at the parts counter. He quoted me the following prices:


Front Rotors - $130 each


Front Pads - 248.89 a pair


Rear Rotors - $403.82 each


Rear Pads - 248.89 a pair


This is exactly what I was quoted at several other dealerships. I don't know how you got the prices you quoted from the same exact dealership unless there's a difference in a dually versus a single rear wheel truck.


Oh well!

I think you might be mixed up or I might be....who knows.


Front rotors are right about dead on.


Front and rear pads are DOUBLE what I was quoted. Wonder if they gave you a "full set" quote and/or gave me a per wheel quote.


So are the rear Rotors. Wonder if you were quoted a set of rotors.


Now that you called and got a totally different quote I am going to stop buy there this coming week and investigate. I thought my price was bad but your quote is just plain rediculous!!!

I also wonder if your Out of Area Caller ID had anything to do with it.


I know that if I call from the home phone on the AFB I get a totally different set of numbers from parts stores than if I wait 5 minutes and call back on the cellphone.........hmmmm


got me wondering.

As a former GM parts "specialist" (their term, not mine) I can tell you first hand that the brake prices are generally nuts. I remember Chevy ventures (minivan pos) front rotors were 210.00 each. Nothing overly special about them, just had GM on the box. Now, some rotors are damped for vibration reduction, but the premium quality aftermarket rotors are too. (I work for Napa now) I definetely wouldn't put a chinese rotor on trucks like ours, however, when a premium replacement is about 1/4 the cost of a GM replacement, it will make me think twice about what to do. Also, GM builds plenty of margin into their parts. I'm sure if you call the dealer, and you aren't friends with the parts guy, he will quote you to the moon. If you have a friend at a local shop that buys GM parts often, ask him/her to call for you, they should be getting parts at wholesale, which could save you at least 20 to 40% if not more.


If you would like me to check what prices are up here, I still have friends on the "inside" Drop me a message, also, include at least the last eight digits of your vin, for accurate look up

I also wonder if your Out of Area Caller ID had anything to do with it.


I know that if I call from the home phone on the AFB I get a totally different set of numbers from parts stores than if I wait 5 minutes and call back on the cellphone.........hmmmm


got me wondering.





I doubt the parts counter had caller id since when you call it goes through the main switchboard and then gets transferred to the parts department.


I don't doubt that they gave you the numbers you quoted, I just know that for my specific truck, they gave me the same prices I got from other dealers around the country. Luckily, in my case, I found all of these parts cheaper through an AC Delco dealer.


Just out of curiosity it will be interesting to see what they tell you when you call them again.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/5F9_DSCN0629.JPG





I am here to tell you that if you give them my vin # they will tell you 410 dollars for factory rotors and 270 for aftermakert rotors. The vin # is TF014982. The rest of the info is below. Now the question is can I put slotted rotors on mine with the loads I haul and if so which ones? When it comes to this, I am a young pup in this matter. Please educate me:) Oh and here is a pic of my rear hub, lol. rotors are to be taken tomorrow:)

anyone checked with Eric ? (dmaxallitech) his price usually exceed any prices I have found for like kind parts. would be interesting to see the difference.

equis557- Those are drums. We are talking rotors. As in Disc brakes. Oh and BTW you can convert that 14 bolt Drum to disc brakes fairly easy and for cheaper than your stating.


Us Jeepers do it all the time. AA manufacturing makes brakets. As does bluetorch fab and some others. You will use front calipers and pads and rotors on the rear with thier brackets.


Here is a link to a buddies swamp buggy that he put disc brakes on his 14 bolt.


http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffroad/axle_tech.htm


About half way down.

My old 2000 GMC 1 ton 4x4 CC LB would need new pads every 3000 miles or so. One time they lasted only 1700 miles after dealer replaced them. After that I just replaced them myself and would get 3000 miles out of them. New rotors at 15000 miles. Rear brakes have been replaced too now and the truck has only 59000 miles on it.


Those older trucks have the sorriest brakes ever!! We have a 95 3/4 ton, a 97 1 ton and 2 2000 1 tons. Brakes are about the same on all of them, just about worthless.


These are all farm trucks and see axle deep mud regularly. That does cut back on the life of the brakes but these newer ones last sooo much longer.


My 2002 DM has 68000 miles now. It has the original brakes on it!!

You need to convert to rear disc's. Mud + Drums = BAD JU JU








My old 2000 GMC 1 ton 4x4 CC LB would need new pads every 3000 miles or so. One time they lasted only 1700 miles after dealer replaced them. After that I just replaced them myself and would get 3000 miles out of them. New rotors at 15000 miles. Rear brakes have been replaced too now and the truck has only 59000 miles on it.


Those older trucks have the sorriest brakes ever!! We have a 95 3/4 ton, a 97 1 ton and 2 2000 1 tons. Brakes are about the same on all of them, just about worthless.


These are all farm trucks and see axle deep mud regularly. That does cut back on the life of the brakes but these newer ones last sooo much longer.


My 2002 DM has 68000 miles now. It has the original brakes on it!!

ALASKA - That is the drum, but I am talking about thr rotors. I will have a pic of the rotors here soon:) I also have a jeep:) I know what you are talking about when it comes to the conversion kit, but I ratrher would prefer to keep my drums due to the loads I haul. The cheapest I have found is $103 from Autozone. Advanced auto is around $150 and NAPA wants almost $200. The question is right now, will slotted rotors (front) hold up to the weight of breaking with a 4 horse trailer or would it be better to just stay with the regular ones?