This is what i did. I removed the old filter, what a mess. I installed the drain/water sensor with the new o ring. I put the new o ring into the new filter and had a heck of a time getting the new filter threaded on. I that the fuel priming pump was a fuel shut off cellinoid. I opened the bleeder and tryed to prime the filter by cranking over the engine. When this did not work I broke down and read my diesel supplement of the owners manual. I then primed the filter properly and could not start the engine. I had fuel leaking from the o ring on the top of the filter. I pulled the filter and inspected the o ring, it seemed fine but had slightly expanded. I looked at the old filter and it apperared to have grease around the o ring. I applied a small amount of grease to the o ring but with the fuel on it the grease did not stick to well. I reinstalled the filter and primed it. The truck started and then quit after 10 sec. I primed the filter again and it started. I let it run 10 min and then drove it up the road after 1/2 mi it started to act as if it had no fuel. I turned around and made it 1/2 way up my driveway and it quit. When I opened the hood and tried to prime it it had full pressure and fuel began to drip consistantly from the o ring. That is where my truck currently sits today 7/4/08. I think I need to get a new filter and grease the o ring first then install it and prime it. Can anyone verify this or give me a pointer or two. Thanx, maw

Usually you don't have to grease it.You may have deformed it by not having it all the way in when tightening it.I would just get a new filter and put the orings on dry.It works best for me if I tighten it by hand then give it maybe a 1/4 turn with a strap wrench to make sure it's good and tight.Then just pump the primer until its stiff.It may start and die once then you may have to prime it one more time.
Jon

DO NOT PUT GREASE ON IT! Unplug the Water In Fuel Sensor (WIF) and the bottom of the fuel filter before you twist off the old filter. Then twist the fuel filter off. Make sure you have the large o ring and small o ring out (one on top and one on WIF sensor). Carefully place the new small ring on the WIF sensor and then on the new fuel filter, use a large wrench but dont over tighten. Make sure the valve is closed on the WIF sensor when you reinstall it. Install the new large o ring on the new filter and install it from the front passenger wheel well. You do not have to remove the plastic inner fender. Use firm pressure and twist at the same time. It is a little tricky but it will thread on. Press the prime until it is firm and you can no longer press it (with the bleeder closed). Do not start it yet, now crack the bleeder and hear all the air escape. Do this a few times until no air escapes. Then start the truck. You make have to pump the GO pedal a few times.

I know this is contradictory to the last post, but I have always used grease to keep the oring in place when threading and to lube it for the next removal. Otherwise it is very hard to get off the next time. Hope you get it started without a leak soon,

Tony

Thanks for the advice. I'll get a new filter tomarrow 7/5 and hopefully be back on the road. Thanx, MAW

I use diesel fuel to lube o ring. I have noticed that the AC brand filter that the large o ring never fits properly. It takes a little work to get it in the and stay. If you don't lube the o ring it will twist when you tighten it up.

and pre-fill the filter with fuel too

did you get the old grommet off? do you still have the old filter you took off does it have the grommet in the center where you are trying to get the filter to thread back on ? i myself use atf on my o rings and the grommet ( it really helps on the grommet when getting it threaded back on) you should be able to reach under the filter housing and feel nothing but threads straight up to the rest of the housing if the old grommet is still there, it happens as often as 50% of the time, take it off the reinstall your new filter you don't need a new one unless you cut the oring

I have a local hardware shop that has O-rings of all sizes and grades for pocket change. It would suck to have to buy a whole new filter just for an O-ring.

I've had trouble with the filter sealing on occasion. Usually, just wipe the base clean with a rag and slowly start the treads and twist until it makes contact.

Odd thing is that fuel out is easier to control thal air in, so you cna have a vacuum leak leading to it dying but not drip any fuel.

If you remove the inner fender liner, it's easier to see what the heck is going on. Often quicker to do more, but have an easier time of it.
jb

did you get the old grommet off? do you still have the old filter you took off does it have the grommet in the center where you are trying to get the filter to thread back on ? i myself use atf on my o rings and the grommet ( it really helps on the grommet when getting it threaded back on) you should be able to reach under the filter housing and feel nothing but threads straight up to the rest of the housing if the old grommet is still there, it happens as often as 50% of the time, take it off the reinstall your new filter you don't need a new one unless you cut the oring

This is what I'm thinking too (old grommet still on the truck) since it was hard to thread back on. Drove me crazy the first time. :banghead:

and pre-fill the filter with fuel too

I wouldn't pre-fill because you're putting unfiltered diesel into your engine. Just prime after the filter is installed and you're good to go.