Why does GM feel it necessary to make us connect the freakin power wire or the 12V supply to the trailer connections????????????? After spending an A$$ load of time wringing out the wiring to only find a wire coiled up and taped to a bundle completely underneath the truck is rediculous. Have you guys ran into this problem yet?

I first connected one that was tied up behind the fuse box under the hood but after tracing the wiring up to the front of the truck I found another one that needed to be connected to the studs in the fuse box.
I know I am ranting but this is rediculous, if you get the trailering package they should hook the ***in wire up already instead of having you do it or having to take it into the dealer to have it connected.

Thanks for listening to my rant fella's.

Quit your rant and go here: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2607691&postcount=9 (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2607691&postcount=9) to make sure you have the correct wire hooked up now.

:D:D:D

And you might try the search feature next time...;)

Yeah it does seem a little weird. The only "excuse" I can think of is that they don't want the trailer using up the truck battery... but that's rather lame.

Hook it up so it's wired hot only when the key is on. That way your trailer battery will only use truck battery while the thing's running.

I read the owners manual and didn't see anything about it. I think that's more frustrating -- does anyone know if this procedure is in the owners manual somewhere?

I totally agree that they should have connected ALL of the wires when we were sold our truck. After taking a trip with my camper where the battery didn't charge while hooked up, I put 2+2 together and found in the manual that it had to be hooked up. I went to my dealer yesterday, had the EMC flash done and asked them to hook up the wire. After charging me $9.00 for the fuse and $59 for labor, I was not happy.:( The service technician even asked me if I had messed with the wires before trying to connect it up, which I had not. He said it was confusing:eek: Anyway, I now have power to my battery so I guess I will live with it.

After charging me $9.00 for the fuse and $59 for labor, I was not happy.:(

You shouldn't have needed a fuse, it's already installed.

I think they leave them disconnected at the factory because they do not know if you will be using the IBC if installed or an aftermarket brake controller. The sad thing to me is the dealers/mechanics don't seem to know anything about it. I had to show my dealer and their supervisors how to hook it up for the IBC.

Another reason for not connecting the power to the socket is that over time, corrosion can occur in the terminals from the constant power and moisture that collects inside the socket, especially if it is rarely or never used. Why they simply can't connect the wire in the first place and leave the fuse out is a mystery.

Another reason for not connecting the power to the socket is that over time, corrosion can occur in the terminals from the constant power and moisture that collects inside the socket, especially if it is rarely or never used. Why they simply can't connect the wire in the first place and leave the fuse out is a mystery.

Yes just leave the fuse out, Genius lol!I wonder what the reason is as well.

Had the Prodigy installed, so the stealership got to do the digging. :)

What if you have the integral trailer brake controller. surely it is hooked up then? :eek:

What if you have the integral trailer brake controller. surely it is hooked up then? :eek:

No it isn't

I have not had to use my IBC yet, but plan to next week. The only thing I planned on buying was an adapter for the trailer plug in. From what I'm reading here I need to actually hook up the HOT wire????

Taking the truck into dealership on the 7/7 for an oil leak!!
If this is the case I will have them do it, and if there is any charge of any kind all H"" will break loose in the Service Managers office.

I read everything in the manual and must have missed it, there are 2 wires, one for the IBC and the other for an aftermarket brake controller. I hooked the Aftermarket one up first and could not figure out why I still did not have power and that is when i found the other that needed connecting. I will disconnect the aftermarket power supply since I have the IBC, and it works really good IMO. Thansk for the support guys and I didn't do a szearch since I was working on the truck and I generally don't stop until I find the issue myself. Just my nature I guess.

I just went through all this crap too. It really is not a big hooking up the wire, its just crap it has to be done at all. The part that pissed me off is I was told to use the power wire that was hanging out of a loom and taped up. The first one we all see looks like the one for sure, its even labeled 12V+ if I remember right. So I hooked it up and tested at the back with a meter and it came up 0.00 but it had 12.6 up front. After screwing with it an hour I gave up and scheduled an appt with the dealer. Then that same night I was bored and did a search here and found out I had the wrong wire, who the hell would have thought there would be two wires that look exactly the same 8 inches apart and not hooked up. I went to the garage and looked where The Diesel Place told me to and there it was, 5 minutes later I had power, (had to take a 6mm nut off my dirt bike cuz GM cant afford to put one on the post). The IBC works absolutely great IMO. I have since changed my wire to a keyed 12V source and put in an inline 40amp fuse I picked up at AutoZone. Now I wont forget and leave the trailer plugged in to the truck the whole weekend on the mountain and not realize it until Sundat afternoon when the Dmax wont start. So those of us that hooked up the wrong one first you are not alone, I think we all did it....

My truck came with the IBC and no it is not hooked up from the factory. I also have the camper wiring harness kit and it was not hooked up either. It was all bundled up and ty-wrapped on the drivers side where the cab and bed meet. I had to hook it up along with the IBC and install the 7-pin plug in the bed of the truck for the camper.
I use the camper plug for my fith wheel and slide in truck camper and use the 7 pin on the rear bumper for my boat or when towing doubles. All works fantastically and I love the IBC.

You shouldn't have needed a fuse, it's already installed.

As others have said, the fuse definitely was not installed. I found where they plugged in the $9.00 40 amp fuse and it was an empty slot when I took it in.
I agree with others in why can't they hook up the wires at the factory and leave the fuse out :confused:

I took my truck in for a leaking power steering pump (9,000 miles, not happy),also told the service attendant the IBC did not work. They replaced the power steering pump, and hooked up the IBC.

When I asked about the problem with the IBC, the service attendant told me that they made a mistake at the assembly plant, and failed to hook it up. NO CHARGE. This was at a Rick Hendricks dealership. No way should there be any charge for hooking up the IBC!

Had to overnight a power steering pump. The dealership secured a Suburban for me to drive. I'm very thankful that I don't have to put fuel in that all the time.

Gas - 14 miles per gallon
Diesel 20 miles per gallon

Just checked the fuse for the IBC. it was there. The red wire is connected to the largest of the two terminals. Thats not the one shown in the diagram, it shows the smaller terminal. The truck came that way. New truck 1 week ago. I have not hooked it up to the trailer yet. will do this next week.

I just hooked mine up a couple of weeks ago. The correct wire to the trailer plug is coiled and taped to the harness under the master cylinder - tough to see.

As stated earlier the wire coiled and taped next to the fuse box is for an aftermarket brake controller - they run the power wire for you.

My fuse was installed and I only needed to hook up the wire.