Well I posted before about this 94 just shutting off while driving. Started this recently and getting worse. I finally was in a position where I could mess with it when it was acting up. What it does is buck just like a carbbed gasser when running out of fuel. I was in the throttle under normal accel and it just fell off, I got out of the throttle, and it idled. It did this several times. Like as soon as you tried to give it too much fuel, the fuel was not there to give. Now if I stay in the throttle when bucking, it will die but restart immediately. The problem does not seem electrical to me because backing out of the throttle helped. I would think however, if I was running out of fuel, it would not want to restart so I am confused here.

I putted 3 miles back home and then revved the piss out of it and would not even hickup at all. Acceleration is where it seems to be a problem. I opened the T valve under the hood and it did not die. I have the lift pump wired in parallel with the FS valve so it runs with the key on. My question is, does this sound like the IP? I have good flow coming from the bleed valve on the filter house but could it be a filter issue? Other ideas?

The other issue I am fighting is very poor cold starts in where the fuel system seems to lose prime or something and it smoke every time and missed for a few seconds. It usually takes 2-3 attempts to get it lit. Actually was started better in cold weather.

My next question was, can I get any warranty out of this old truck? Is there a pump that just sucks enough that they will change at any year or mileage?

the IP warranty was 12 years or 120,000 miles whichever came first. in either case you are out of warranty.

Did your SES light, or STS light come on during any one of these events?

Regardless, I'd see if there may be a code to start from.

Easiest way to rule out grounds and electrical connections is to get after them and polish them up.

I actually just added more grounds because I could see no good ground between engine and chassis. I created a new one from the intake to the chassis which also picks up the neg side of the batteries. Really doubting that one.

When it coded before, I had a pulse width error which really does not tell me squat about the problem. I will go code it again but I am sure I will get the same EGR codes I always have and a pulse width code.

That's right, the codes don't tell squat about the problem, but they may tell you the system that may contain a fault, be it a faulty device, connection etc. but at least it's a place to start.

I would ignore the EGR code, it has nothing to do with your immediate dilemma, but the pulse width code, not so improbable...

OK I pulled to codes tonight and absolutely no pulse width codes. I have 16, 29, 32, 33, 45, 78.

All but the 16 is the EGR crap, something about a glow plug relay fault that is not causing the problem, and my waste gate solenoid fault which I already plant to fix with a mechanical WG setup.

The 16 refers to the vehicle speed buffer which I have NEVER seen before on this truck. I have not seen anything erratic with the speedo and shifting has all been fine as well. What code might I find with an FSD or IP failure? Could this be a nasty defuel from bad sensor feedback?

a failing FSD/PMD won't code. thats why the dealerships couldn't figure it out as nothing jumped out and said "fix me". the symptoms of a failing PMD are surging and stalling. eventually it'll just quit running all together and you'll have no fuel to your injectors. then its time for a new PMD.

That EGR stuff points to your vacuum system. I am not sure but If you have the EGR, you could not really ignore the vacuum pump. Although, you are going to have a mechanical wastegate. It may just be leaky in the vacuum hoses, if you can find those and replace it, you may solve most of your problem.

I have went all the way through the vac system and even taped vac gauge s to the windshield to verify I was not losing vac to the solenoids but the WG solenoid itself. The EGR systems seems to not work anyway but I planned to hook it back up anyway.

Checklist. DO THE CHECKLIST. Checklist....

click on the checklist in my signature, copy and paste it into a reply, and answer all the questions. What you got sounds suspiciously fuel related, but not IP related, so this might be one of the easy fixes.

Dill out the checklist so we're not all guessing about stuff, ok?

1. Does the engine crank, or 'turn over'? yep
1a. Does the engine start and run? yep but hard to get started when cold
1a1. If the engine does not start - Crack injector line (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2188140#post2188140): do you have fuel? Yes/No
1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & the amount of time (seconds) lit. does light up for around 8 sec
1c. Ambient Condition (temperature outside indicate F or C) 70*F_____ °
1d. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer). 200rpm
1e. Are you experiencing stalling? yep
1f. If Stalling, describe (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump etc) unexpected stutter but if I get out of the throttle in time, it will idle and take a very small amount of throttle.
1g. If Stalling, do you notice loss of dash or instruments? nope
-note if experiencing stalling,you must indicate PMD location in #24.
1h. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. Cone filters have lost disk and stopped air to turbo. no obstuction
1.1 Lift pump test (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39350)- describe results open T valve and verified fuel at filter. Wired to run all the time when key is on. Wired to the Fuel shut off valve on the IP

2. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent intermittent
2a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes/No
3. Model year
3a. Odometer reading (indicate if in miles or km) 300k miles
3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump) unknown
3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......) DS4
4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) yes/no yes
5. List exact results on engine codes (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/dtc.php): 16, 29, 32, 33, 45, 78
6. Air Filter condition (visual check) brand new
7. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed/condition unknown/mileage since changed) changes 1K miles ago
8. Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened) 1 new battery and all connection cleaned
8a. Known condition and age of the batteries. 1 new, 1 2 yrs old
8b. Are batteries of differing age or are they a matched set?
8c. Condition of Major Grounds (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157085). (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened) cleaned and extra grounds added
9. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/no no
10. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/no yep
11. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? yep
12. Have you used the block heater, and does this effect engine starting?(only try for starting problems) never used it. Temp is warm here now
13. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/no yes but have a known boost problem
14. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? oh yes
15. Turbo check out (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368)- pass/fail pass
16. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit) S VIN
17. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. 1500
18. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-diesel, #2 Diesel, #1Diesel, SVO/WVO, other #2 diesel
18a. If running a VO (Veggie Oil fuel) setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade, or packaged system)
19. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list. None at this time
20. Please indicate geographic region you are in: (example: Texas or Canada) Kansas
21. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? New injectors, fuel filter
22. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better.
23. Upon unscrewing the fuel cap (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42338), do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? yes/no I am using a loose towel in the hole right now
24. Location of PMD/FSD (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39436)? On the pump/remoted over intake/remoted out of engine bay (please specify placement specifically) OEM location
24a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from a vendor?)
24b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire.
25. Are ALL glow plugs in proper working order as per this thread (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39182)? yes, verified when new injectors installed.

Hopefully that is somewhat understandable. The things I thought that might be a problem are the towel I am using for a fuel tank cap, or I was wondering if the throttle sensor could be causing this? Isn't there a fail safe for the throttle and would code?


The thing that is suspicious about this is it seems to only affect the truck under load and the second it stutters and I pull my foot on the go pedal, it will idle. I thought if the FSD was failing, it would just die? Now it has done that too at near idle and then will restart immediately. My starting condition seems to be getting worse too in that it seems to lose prime over night and takes a few attempts to get it lit. It aways cranks out white smoke and stutters a bit for about 15 sec. It actually starts BETTER in cold weather though. I have tried getting more glow time in under cold start with no help.

UPDATE: I decided to unplug the coolant sensor this morning before I lit the truck and it fired right up first time with almost NO smoke! Now I do not know if this was a fluke deal so I will try it again tomorrow but what might this tell me? I did not notice an excessive glow time, I thought this would fool the PCM into thinking it was about -20F or so. I was really surprised. I plugged it back in after about 1min run time with no change to idle. The truck did seem to idle lower than normal and I was expecting a higher idle with it unplugged. I just drove it 20 miles with no hiccup at all.

This would be the sensor on the Tstat neck I believe. Not sure if there is another or not. Also not sure if this would cause any stutter problems either.

Latest 34583 FSD/PMD can be in limp mode, I am not sure why they design it that way. The old one, it will just die.

I know you jump the LP, have you measured the fuel pressure at the Tee.

I'm suspecting your hiccup issue is caused by fuel, viper, and I can't quite understand all the info in the checklist, so help me out.

Did you open the T-valve (water drain) when the truck was idling? Did fuel pee out of thre, or did the truck stall? Lift pump running doesn't mean it's pumping enough.

Next, you need to do something about those codes. Some codes will put your engine into limp mode... means that things will run well enough to limp you home, but that's about it. Having your engine go into this fail-safe condition can affect your timing, turbo operation (vacuum), etc.

Yours are all vacuum-related except 16 and 29, so you need to check your vacuum pump... get a vacuum gauge, put it on the line leading from the vacuum pump... you should have over 20" vacuum. Then try it after the wastegate solenoid... you should have about 18". Then try it at the wastegate actuator... should still be above 16" there.
Then try the EGR lines.

Vacuum lines get brittle, crack, and leak. Easy fix.
Vacuum pumps crap out too. Not so easy fix, but not bad, either.

Yes, I opened the T valve when running and it drained and did not stall. I have ran the truck with a vac gauge taped to the windshield to verify vac. Vac pump is good to go. I am either losing signal to the WG solenoid or the solenoid is bad. Either way I plan to loose the whole thing and put a mechanical WG unit on. I am not sure why I and getting the other EGR codes but is was running fine with them.


I want to understand more about my find on the CTS for better starts. Could this cause a hiccup in get-a-long? I agree, it does see fuel related but I am trying to figure out some testing methods to discover the conditions when it stalls. IE, voltage measurements, fuel pressure, etc.

If you have lots of vacuum between the pump and the solenoids, check between the WG solenoid and the Turbo. Even at idle, you should have lots of vacuum going to the wastegate.

If you don't, then likely the WG solenoid is hooped. Check the wiring, give it a rap with a screwdriver (there's a little ball in there that sometimes rusts and sticks) give it a shoe of WD-40 through the vent hole.

If you have to replace it, they're cheap.

But that STILL doesn't solve your EGR problem, or the others.

Did you clear the codes? Sometimes, your system can set codes for real reasons, and those codes can cause you even more grief... it's a good practice to clear your codes, then fire up and see which ones come back.

How to read and clear codes on OBD-I systems (without a code reader) in case anybody's interested.

Look here (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2007928&postcount=18)