Thank you very much for the fast reply to my inquiry for GMVIS.

Sorry about posting the wrong way as I am new to the forum and I am still very green.

I am wondering if you or anybody else has an idea why you might think that the diesel injection pump was replaced at 13339 miles and again at 32778 miles.

I understand GM had some warranty issues with the pump for the trucks with the 6.5 turbo.

I bought the truck in LA California and brought it back home towards Michigan. Before I got to Las Vegas the service engine soon light was on. I stopped into Diesel Specialist INC in Las Vegas (These guys are great and I highly recommend if you run into trouble down there stop in to see Daryl and Bob) They discovered that the wrong upper intake air horn was put on the truck maybe during the last service work. The air horn put on had no holes milled in it for the air sensor and MAF (wire was hanging for air sensor and MAF tube was connected to nothing) so they exchanged it for a used one that had the holes drilled and put it back together and I was on my way again at a resonable fee. On the way to Las Vegas the truck had poor performance up the hills and seemed to be clanging to much and when the service light was on I thought it was best to stop and check out the truck. Also there is very little EGR on the truck. Does anyone know what type of a set up that the air horn without the holes drilled in it belonged to?

Also does anyone know what the Z7200 - CORPORATE PARTS RETURN REIMBURSEMENT might of meant? THe truck was a government vehicle for some rescue divers I believe.

Where can I get a list to figure out the build codes?
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If I posted this incorrectly I do appolgize and maybe I could be directed to the correct location to post.

I hope you folks don't mind a couple of pictures of my new used truck.:)

Thanks ever so much

Dean

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Help (https://www.autopartners.net/apps/gmvis/gmvis/help/VehicleBuild.jsp?VIN=1GCHK33F7XF083982&languageSelected=EN)VIN 1GCHK33F7XF083982 VEHICLE BUILD Merchandising Model : CK30943 Gross Vehicle Weight Rating : 4540 kg (10011 lb) Order Number : BNMVCM Build Date : 05/08/1999 Build Plant : 1XF43 GMVIS is not the definitive source of GM Vehicle RPO information and is intended for service reference only. Should there be any questions about the vehicle's original build or RPO information please refer to the original vehicle invoice or window sticker. </B>OPTION CODES #SP AM7 A28 A52 BZY CMD C60 C7A DE2 E63 FE9 FK2 FK3 GAM GT5 G80 JB8 KNP K34 K60 L65 MT1 NF2 NZZ N33 R05 SLL TFD UM7 UQ5 U01 VK3 VR4 VXS V27 V43 V73 V95 XHR X88 YD3 YD6 YHR YK6 ZHR ZQ3 ZY1 Z82 1Q6 1SA 1SZ 39U 52I 52V 6GL 7GL

You have a L65 engine wich is mounted on F trucks. No EGR on these ones, so your previous plenum (what you call air horn) was may be right.
Check for that with dealer, I may tell you stupidt things as I haven't seen so much F trucks in my country but it's worth to check.
I don't know much about the F setup, but I don't see any Baro sensor hooked on the firewall like for S engines, so that may explain why there's no need for a boost sensor and IAT in that case, so no drill on the plenum.
Your's is a 1997 or +, so the MAF sensor is close to airbox, not on plenum. What you should find usually is a place for the IAT (input air temp) sensor, and boost sensor

BTW, nice truck!

Thanks on the truck compliment. I hope it runs ok in the long run. It made it from LA to Ontario ok but I think there are a few issues to resolve.

Yes I believe the engine is a L65.

As I mentioned the air sensor wire was left hanging and the other unit(black rectangular plastic) was connected to connector but was not attached to the plenum because of no holes drilled.

After they install the plenum with the holes drilled the service engine light went out which leads me to believe that the intake with the air sensor was supposed to be on the truck otherwise you would be driving with the warning light on for the life of the truck.

While I was at the diesel specialist inc in Las Vegas there was a HD 1 ton there that had the turbo and egrs and intake egr hole but no holes drilled for the air sensor and other black device.

I am a bit confused on how many different variations of the intake setup there are?

Thanks again
Dean

As far as I know, it exists 3 kind of plenums
1 -no holes for IAT and boost sensor, and no place for EGR
2- holes for boost and IAT sensors, but no EGR
3- holes for boost and IAT sensors, and EGR (crap!), for the S engines (8th digit of the VIN #)
The 2 first I believe are used for F engines only (K2500 & K3500 trucks)

I think I had the version 1 before I did the swap and version 2 after the swap.

I thing there is one device out of three in the egr metal bracket drivers side of the intake plenum.

I believe the truck was meant to have the version 2 to keep the warning light off.

What is the function of the boost and IAT sensors and what happens to engine performance if I kept running with the version 1 intake plenum?

Did you notice the fuel pump was replaced twice on the truck already.

I am not too familar with how diesel pickup truck engines should should sound as I have only run diesel construction equipment.

During the drive home the 6.5 seemed to have a sweet spot in around 65-70 mph and likes a bit of load on the engine to keep the clanging down. The fastest I had the truck running was around 75 mph for a bit but the rpms seems to be getting up a bit. Being a dually 1 ton I wonder how fast one would want to drive the 6.5.

There was some times were the engine seems to get into a funk were it is clanging more and more noises and I have to get it up to speed and get a load on the engine to quiet it down. Worse if I stopped a bit and shut engine down then got back on the freeway.

Not sure if better to just leave running or idle for ??? minutes to cool down.

By the end of the trip I seemed to get the hang of driving the diesel a bit better. One thing for sure it seems to like to have a load put on it quick to get away from the engine clanging.

It was nearly 105 in Las vegas.

I am planning on getting the pmd cooler and do some exhaust work.

I am hoping to get some more horsepower some how without loosing dependability or fuel mileage.

Thanks

You may have had an upper intake plenum off of a mechanical IP 6.5.

No computer control, so no need for sensors.

These truck love having a load on them, it keeps them (And all other diesels) alive, just don't over work it, or you'll kill it, it's no Cummins or Cat.
The 6.5 can be rattly and knocky but it seems that 1800RPM is a sweet spot for being quiet, fuel efficent (Something about the thermo dynamics of diesel fuel :p:) and a good rpm for a good start on some get up and go :D

Mine is a 98 K2500 L65... I don't have any MAF.... Was it just 97 F codes they had the MAF on? I know the 97+ S codes had the MAF...

The 6.5 only gets better as far as milage goes when you get some goodies thrown at it.... IF you can keep your foot OUT of it to see better milage that is ;)

Look here for option codes :

http://www.c2e.info/rpocodes/



Cu,
Sven

The IP replacements were probably due to the PMD going bad and the dealer techs thinking it was the IP. Mine had similar stuff done under warranty; you'd think they'd have figured it out by 99 though. Nice rig BTW. What are you going to use it for?

Nick

Welcome to the forum. It would help a bunch if you took your camera, took the "turbo power" dress-up cover OFF, and took detailed shots of the engine bay so that we know what you're talking about. We can help more then.

Thanks,

Rob ;)

Is this another sad case of an incompetent mechanic messing with a 6.5 or an attempt to get rid of all those *&*%^ sensors that turn off the turbo. Take the MAP out so it show no boost and the IAT out so it doesn't show high intake temp and the PCM might leave the turbo alone. SES light is for sissies anyway.

Thanks chevylover for the link for the option codes. Wow who said you can't order a truck the way you want it! That is a lot of different options.

Thanks WhiteK2500. The guys at the DSI thought the same that the last mechanics threw on a manifold from a mechanical injection pump. According to the dealer via my vin number the one that DSI put on to replace the no holes drilled intake is the correct one for the truck. My truck seems to be best around 2000-2200 rpm (60-65 mph) It does run quiet at the 1800 rpm (55-60 mph) but I think both me and the motor start to go to sleep,at least me anyway. I am a carpenter/builder and I plan to use the truck to replace my tired old Dodge 1 Ton Dually service truck. I don't think you guys want to see a picture of that one as it may be painfull to the eye,although it makes a good before and after ride picture.

Thanks MercedesNick. I can understand them getting the PMD problem mixed up with the IP but it would me that the new IP had a new PMD mounted to it otherwise they would be no futher ahead on the repair. Did you extend you PMD away from the motor with a cooler?

Thanks TurboTahoe
I will post a couple of pics tomorrow when I get back down to the shop. I have to get the truck ready to certify and clean air. I hope it passes the clean air with the lack of erg stuff.

Sorry RustyCanuck I didn't see you till the next page.

There was some definite messing around and I haven’t fully figured out why the intake swap other than what you suggested. They left two bolts out of the lower intake and the clips off the injection lines as well as a bolt out of the air conditioner.

I would run with the SES light on 24/7 if I knew there was nothing wrong with the truck. But I just purchased it and was unfamiliar with the 6.5 diesel only owning 1 tons with gas engines in the past. The SES light along with erratic performance up the hills was the deciding factor for me to drop into the diesel specialist to have things checked out. After getting the repair done, SES light out, truck running better, I think I did the right thing? Cost me $425 to do it including the AC recharge which was a bit of a blow at the beginning of the return home but the truck wasn't running right and it was 105 degrees in Las Vegas and I had 2400 more miles to cover to get back home.

So you’re saying if you "take the MAP out so it shows no boost and the IAT" the turbo will run all the time? Is this good for gas mileage and long term dependability of Turbo and internal engine?

Thanks

So you’re saying if you "take the MAP out so it shows no boost and the IAT" the turbo will run all the time? Is this good for gas mileage and long term dependability of Turbo and internal engine?

Thanks

Not sure how fimilar you are with the terms, but the MAP is the "Manifold absolute pressure" sensor. it basically tells the computer how much boost the engine is building, without that and the IAT (Intake air temperature) both things the computer needs to opperate right, the computer is basically "flying blind" as to what's going on as far as intake temps and pressures go.

Disconnecting those is a bad idea, as you have found, because the computer goes into "safe mode", to prevent serious failure, kinda like your PC if you fawk it up.

As far as milage goes, the GM-X turbo's turbine housing is a little small as far as free flowing goes, great for spool up, but at higher RPMS and higher boost levels, it becomes a bottle neck in the exhaust path.

If you can make a boost fooler (use the search button to find out what it is and how to make one) for the MAP, the user can manually dump the wastegate to see if that'll help with milage, and you can even crank the boost up as far as you feel safe with.

When it comes to a turbo on a diesel, the more back pressure you build before the turbine housing, the worst your fuel economy will be. Also, stay out of the boost, that too will help with better economy.