Hey guy's. I'm trying to complete the turbo conversion on my 6.2 which consists of using factory 6.5 TD parts. Last question I have is........do I use the 6.5 exhaust manifold on the drivers side or keep the stock 6.2? The stock 6.5TD drivers side manifold looks like it's going to get into the frame on my 87 4x4. Thanks, Dave.
:beerchug:

Have to use the 6.5 manifolds.

Have to use the 6.5 manifolds.

+1 on that note.

will someone please give me a full list of 6.5 parts i need, to turbo my 6.2. ive read the forums and one guy says you need this and other guy says no you dont. please help

passenger side exhaust and turbo, with mechanical wastegate
apparently you can keep drivers side but might as well change both
cross over pipe
intake
plenum
after market air filter, stock uses in fender box for new body style
turbo oil drain to mechanacal fuel pump mount
oil line from presure sender to turbo
best to have boost and pyro gauges as well

What is the cost difference (give or take) in doing it a peice at a time as opposed to buying a Sidewinder kit from Banks?

Well, for one thing, I think banks discontinued the kit...

I just saw it on thier web site. I am sure that means little though.

They still have a kit at banks. it is 2700.00

Is that more than peicing one together?

when i was making a decision, the banks kit was on "special" for 2200, and they don't discount discontinued items, I picked up a complete 6.5 set up off a member on here for 375 +shipping and got the plenum for 25. the best i saw a used banks gofor on ebay was around 900

passenger side exhaust and turbo, with mechanical wastegate
apparently you can keep drivers side but might as well change both
cross over pipe
intake
plenum
after market air filter, stock uses in fender box for new body style
turbo oil drain to mechanacal fuel pump mount
oil line from presure sender to turbo
best to have boost and pyro gauges as well

Fuel pump, as the mechanical one is replaced so install a stock electric one.
Turbo DP or aftermarket 3 inch one, then might as well get the aftermarket crossover pipe too.
Vans use different heads, intake, turbo and manifolds.

What is the cost difference (give or take) in doing it a peice at a time as opposed to buying a Sidewinder kit from Banks?

Lots, usually you can pickup a used setup for under a grand or less.

How are you mounting the turbo? Does it have a pedistal? Are you using an oil line or will it have a direct feed?

the turbo mounts on the pass ex manifold, and it has a oil line

Thanks. That will give me a better idea of what to look for.

I bought both exhaust manifolds and both intake pieces from a guy on ebay. He has them there all the time. Cheap and they look new.

What is his name? Do you have a link?

go to ebay, search 6.5 diesel thats how i found it. it was buy it now $250

Thanks.

I made him an offer of $200.oo and he took it. Give it a shot.

I just finished this swap myself using a GM-3 turbo from 1993 mechanically injected 6.5L donor engine. I used the serpentine belt setup, passenger side exhaust manifold, both intake pieces, and the turbo from the 6.5L. I used the stock 6.2L exhaust manifold on the driver's side of the truck to avoid potential clearance issues. I haven't had my exhaust done yet (still trying to find a good price around town), but I'll have a custom crossover pipe made, and I'll be running a single 3.5" straight pipe down the outside of the frame rail (the turbo dumps straight above the rail, and it is easiest to route it outside the frame).

Since my 6.2L is an 82 engine with the coarse threaded injectors, I was pretty concerned about clearance issues between the manifold and the injectors. I wound up stacking two exhaust manifold gaskets to increase the clearance, and was pleasantly surprised to discover that doing so left me with a few hundredths of an inch of clearance between the lines and the heat shield for the turbo. I did turn my pump up a 1/8th of a turn, but I have not had the opportunity to drive my truck yet, so I may need to tweak that either up or down depending on how my EGTs are looking.

Since I am an instrumentation guy, I custom bent a stainless steel oil supply line from the port where the sending unit is threaded into from the factory, and moved the sending unit down to the port just above the oil cooler lines and oil filter. For the oil return I replaced the mechanical pump with the factory return plate.

One of my biggest beefs with the 6.5L turbo setup is the lack of good options for air filters. I found an ebay "cold" air intake with a hose for the CDR canister and a cone filter on it. I'd very much like to find some sort of a canister filter so I can hook up the factory cold air duct that runs up to the grill of my truck to help with EGTs as best I can.

The only other problem I ran into was some clearance issues between the studs that hold the turbo exhaust manifold on and the passenger frame rail. I wound up grinding away a little over 3/8" of an inch to give 1/4" clearance between the nuts and the frame rail.

thanks for the info. i am getting ready to put a turbo on my 6.2, and its good to read about it before i do it. so all you took of the 6.5 was the turbo, upper and lower intake, and pass. side manifold?

I took the turbo, the manifold it was bolted to, the turbo return line + the plate that bolts on where the old mechanical pump was, the heat shield between the manifold and injectors, the starter heat shield, both brackets that the injector lines are bolted to, the dip stick, the 6.5L intake manifold (both parts), the 6.5L passenger side valve cover and CDR valve, the water crossover, all of the accessories, and the 6.5L gear reduction starter.

I may have forgotten a couple things, but thats the jist of it.