This problem occurred about 2 months after the HP4 and HO injectors were installed. The problem is at WOT the boost jumps to 10 by 2000 rpms but the its 5 by 2500 and then drops to 0 and smokes like a freight train. Some one please point me in the right direction.

Thanks
Ryan

0. Describe in detail the problem you are having. Please be as descriptive as possible.
1. Does the engine crank, or 'turn over'? Yes
1a. Does the engine start and run? yes
1a1. If the engine does not start - Crack injector line (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2188140#post2188140): do you have fuel? Yes/No
1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & the amount of time (seconds) lit. yes 8-10
1c. Ambient Condition (temperature outside indicate F or C) __85___ °F
1d. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer).
1e. Are you experiencing stalling? no
1f. If Stalling, describe (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump etc)
1g. If Stalling, do you notice loss of dash or instruments?
-note if experiencing stalling,you must indicate PMD location in #24.
1h. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. Cone filters have lost disk and stopped air to turbo.
1.1 Lift pump test (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39350)- describe results- old pump was weak now new pump

2. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent- burnt out
2a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: No
3. Model year 1998
3a. Odometer reading (indicate if in miles or km) 197,400 miles
3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump)
3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......) dont know its DS4 something
4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) yes
5. List exact results on engine codes (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/dtc.php): P0101, P0236, P0401
6. Air Filter condition (visual check) new
7. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed/
8. Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened) check them the other day
8a. Known condition and age of the batteries. 1 1/2 YEARS
8b. Are batteries of differing age or are they a matched set? MATCHED
8c. Condition of Major Grounds (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157085). (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened)
9. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? no
10. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? no
11. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? no
12. Have you used the block heater, and does this effect engine starting?(only try for starting problems)
13. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes
14. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues?
15. Turbo check out (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368)- pass/fail
16. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit)
17. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. 1500
18. Indicate fuel that you are using: #2 Diesel, #1Diesel,
18a. If running a VO (Veggie Oil fuel) setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade, or packaged system)
19. Are you using any fuel additives?no
20. Please indicate geographic region you are in: (example: Texas or Canada) NJ
21. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? no
22. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. look in sig
23. Upon unscrewing the fuel cap (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42338), do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? a little bit
24. Location of PMD/FSD (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39436)? remoted over intake
24a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from a vendor?) stock
24b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. on heat sink with PMD
25. Are ALL glow plugs in proper working order as per this thread (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39182)? yes

I'm going to say check all intake seals, gaskets, and such, may be a small leak somewhere. Also, not boost related, but, I noticed your PMD is on the intake manifold. Get it off of there ASAP. In the bumper "nostrils" would be a much better place.

hmmmm. all you need it for the T/M to open a tiny bit and there goes all your boost. whats the T/M set to? mines at 12-13 max and its plenty. could have a leak in the crossover, hole in the crossover, etc. if it builds boost at first but then dies out i'd say somethings not correct with the T/M. mine seems to be fine but when the exhaust pressure overcomes the spring i'll watch the needle on the boost gauge quiver as the exhaust pressure overpowers the spring, bleeds out some pressure, then the spring snaps the wastegate shut again, and rinse/repeat until i take my foot out the firewall.

is the mystery gasket under the intake, (your sig says its an S engine)

wire the waste gate shut and take for a drive and see if your boost stays up...could just be something wrong with your TM...

??

If your air filter is good, and your turbomaster is good, and you're getting black smoke (you're getting fuel), you should be making boost.

The boost was fine before, right? You didn't change anything and this suddenly happened?

I agree with Nick... check your EGR setup... if you're losing boost pressure, it has to be going somewhere. Temp. wiring up the wastegate will answer some questions, too... swing it open and closed a few times to make sure nothing got stuck in the flange.

The only thing that makes sense in this case is EGR. If you still have the factory setup, either fix it, or block it off. Either a frost plug in the EGR tower, or a fancy gasket under the valve will do the trick. I was powerless for the longest time... until I made a high performance aluminum EGR gasket :D

OK guys been working the last few days and here is what I came up with. First the TM is set for 14 lbs. The truck was running fine and all of a sudden it started driving crappy. The egr is blocked with a 45mm freeze plug. I had check the lift pump and it was weak so I changed it and the fuel pressure a idle is 4.5 lbs and wot it drops to about 1.5 lbs. This don't seem right as at idle i should see 7-8 lbs right. Is there a check valve on the return line from the ip that could be stuck open because when the truck shifts gears the boost comes back a little.

Thanks
Ryan

Today I pulled the tanks and cleaned the filter sock so nothing there. It seems every time I fix the truck something else goes wrong.

Thanks
Ryan

Check your waste gate shaft for side play.

My turbo needs replacing due to the WG shaft having excess clearance where the shaft rides in the bushings. It does exactly what you describe. As soon as boost gets up enough for the TM to start allowing some movement, the shaft cocks in the bushings and all boost is lost.


On a cold engine, check for side play in the WG shaft by disconnecting the TM and wiggle the shaft. NO wiggle at all is allowed.

May want to relay your OPS so the relay controls the LP. The OPS has caused a lot of havoc in the operation of the LP to produce consistent and enough fuel pressure.

JMJNet I have 13.5 volts at the LP at idle will the ops stop working while i am driving the truck. Also if someone could answer my ? about the lift pump pressure.

Thanks
Ryan

psi should 5 to 7 psi at idle and 2 to 3 psi at WOT... and move over a quart a min.

OPS, the switch part should be on during run, it should give steady voltage at WOT or run. If it is not then the OPS is bad. I am not sure the voltage when running.

If the OPS give 13.5V, that should be good. Measure the pressure as specified by ghitch75. I think the pump spec is 6 to 8 psi at idle and probably more like >4 at WOT. But I can be wrong.

Ok found some dirt or grime in the bottom of the fuel filter and a nice sized piece of plastic in the fender blocking the intake. So all is good with the truck. Will be putting a 4" SS exhaust on this weekend.

Thanks again
Ryan