I am trying to install a rebuilt engine and cannot find where the turbo cooling line fits on the engine.

The casting number on the block I have right now is 10149599.
Unfortunately I do not know what the number of the one is that was removed.

Also, on the original engine there was an oil pressure sensor mounted between the two heads towards the back of the engine. I do not have that on this block.

Save me from going mad!

4GH2 701 - From the front of the engine on the drivers side under the head.

GM LD - From the drivers side at the front of the engine.

Hoping this will help to narrow down this headache.

599 blocks were used on 6.2 (non-turbo) and were the first blocks bored out to the 6.5. You might have one from a 6.2. Are the heads off, can you measure the bore? 6.2 is just under 4" 6.5 is just over.

I bought a used engine that was a 6.2 block (660 casting) with 6.5 heads and a turbo. The T'd off the OPS to run the turbo supply line. Which might be what you have to do.

Dave

The 599 plumbs the OPS to the rear of the drivers side cylinder head. The 96+ 141's and 506's plumbed it in under the intake in the lifter valley. The turbo oil supply line hooks up to a fitting threaded into the front of the block more to the passenger side on a 599. IIRC the 506 plumbed in in the rear of the block.

I am not familiar with all the abbreviations and am assuming that OPS is Oil Pressure Switch.

On my old engine it was in the valley between the heads do you know where it will be on this one?

Is it in this location shown in the picture?

Where do I get the hardware to make the Tee?
Where do I get a custom oil line to the turbo?

If I could push this thing off a cliff I would!!!!!!!!!!!

When I try fitting the bracket that holds the alternator and belt tensioner there is a gap of approx 0.250" between the bracket and the head.

Can I just put some washers between the bracket and cylinder head?
If I do this will it affect my sepentine belt?
Is there a physical difference in the length of the casting that would cause this condition?

Should I go back to the engine rebuilder and stamp my feet until I get an engine that has the same casting # as my original?

Thanks

When I try fitting the bracket that holds the alternator and belt tensioner there is a gap of approx 0.250" between the bracket and the head.

Can I just put some washers between the bracket and cylinder head?
If I do this will it affect my sepentine belt?
Is there a physical difference in the length of the casting that would cause this condition?

Should I go back to the engine rebuilder and stamp my feet until I get an engine that has the same casting # as my original?

Thanksit looks like your old engine was a 506 with the piston cooling spray, they gave you a much older block . this one may last longer ?

you have to put the lift eye bracket in between the head and alternator bracket.

all blocks are physical identical but 6.2 and early non turbo 6.5 lack the turbo oil feed at front of engine .look at front pass side underneath head, there is either 6.2 or 6.5 l cast on in the block. if it is a 6.2 i would not use it

it looks like your old engine was a 506 with the piston cooling spray, they gave you a much older block . this one may last longer ?
.look at front pass side underneath head, there is either 6.2 or 6.5 l cast on in the block. if it is a 6.2 i would not use it



From what I recall reading here, the oil spray blocks were a problem compared to earlier designs. Do a search for more info why.

A 599 block will NOT specify 6.2 or 6.5 , It will simply state GM LD (light duty?, maybe little duty:p:) as it was used for both sizes. Only way to know which it may be, is to measure the bore, as noted above. Either way, IIRC, a 599 block is generally considered one of the better blocks.

Blocks are not the same . Ran into a problem on a 97 3500HD trying to put a 599 block in place of the 506 . My problem was the oil cooler fitting holes were two different sizes and the bosses where they attached to the block were out from the block and wouldn't let you install the lines with the exhaust manifold on . There was maybe 1/4" clearance when they were on . Called the rebuilder before I started swapping and asked about the different numbered blocks , of course he said they will work and of course they didn't . Take it back and get the right block .

It was 'hiding' beneath a screw.

It should have a big neon sign by it that flashes to let me know where it belongs. I am not sure if this is a design flaw or a distinct lack of intelligence on my part!

Thanks to all for your help.