My lower post has more info but here is a new question. When I crank my motor over i don't see and white smoke coming out and it just cranks and cranks....doesn't fire or try to start. Is there something I can spray into the air intake to see if it will fire on that. I believe I'm not supposed to use either.

I don't think I am getting fuel to the IP. I wouldn't think relocating the PMD would be the problem because I know the harness is sound. Wondering if I disturbed the harness somewhere else when doing the intake manifold. If the PMD was totally shot would the truck still try to run?

Everybodys help is greatly appreciated.

Bill

i use brake parts cleaner not quite as volatile as either but truck will start on it. have someone crank the engine and while it is turning over spray a little bit in at a time !!

This sounds like a PITA, but I would double check your extension harness again for bad or crossed connections. Then, remount the PMD back to the IP as the factory did, and see what happens. That will eliminate any weird grounding issues you may have now.

Before relocating PMD did you have this problem, I find usually a new problem unexplained through normal course of events can be tied back to what I did last, the PMD harness can be tempermental intermittent or a "cold junction" type connection that breaks down under load could very well be the cause.

You guys and your FSDs...Buy a NEW driver, with a NEW harness, put it where its supposed to be and you won't have any Weird Grounding, or crossed wires or oops, I guess I need a bigger heatsink problems.

Yes and you WILL be replacing it again and again go the Heath route if it happens again at least there will be a 7 yr warranty to cover it.

TDG evidence site after site topic of electronic injection 6.5s is truck stalled replace PMD is fix, after 3 events myself in 98K miles I think it's fair to say GM/Stanadyne messed up here.

Not wanting to run a debate with you but have you ever done a Parato of events, time, remedy, and repeat fails post new PMD & harness replacement, even GM acknowledged the problem with it's 11yr 120K warranty on IP/PMD issues.
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You guys and your FSDs...Buy a NEW driver, with a NEW harness, put it where its supposed to be and you won't have any Weird Grounding, or crossed wires or oops, I guess I need a bigger heatsink problems.

...My second gen driver has lasted ~5yrs so far, between myself and the last two owners. There is merit to my remedies as well, set the return oil to top spec to keep the pump/driver cool and it will last.

I need to also add, and I think I mentioned this before. I suspect there are several different builds if you will, of that 34583 PMD. Older PMDs seem to be prone to the intermittent stalling problem than the newest generation is. Stanadyne never did mention to us whether they did change any of the internals of the newest one, but I've seen hundreds of failed drivers, and I've seen several used ones that tested good, but failed after a short period of time on the vehicle, almost all of the problematic ones are from the earlier versions, very very little trouble with the late design.

My fails were all new gen PMDs last one was resurrected 3xs before I gave up on it last year, knock on wood no fail yet on my Heath one of course now I just cursed myself LOL ):h

What I'm saying is there are differences in drivers with the 34583 part #, the earlier production models of the latest part number were unreliable and did not last long, but the later design ones you would get if you bought one today, is much more reliable.
Don't get me wrong, I"m not saying Stanadyne and GM know everything and we should all just bow to their wisdom. They make mistakes, they get pressured to meet deadlines and I don't think they did nearly enough testing, but I do think that they have learned alot from the last decade that they've had to deal with these problems.

My personal opinion is that they know more than they are willing to share, too much libility if they admitted what is going on here; better less $$$ for them to manage thru attrition rather than admitting major foul up, policy has been amended several times as people like myself keep trying to make energizer bunnies out of them to keep them going and going. It messes with their attrition plan as they expect these trucks to be replaced before having to do too many warranty IP replacements, or they recoup their losses by fooling the unknowing into thinking it's their fault by having "dirty fuel" or bad tanks, spend $1000 to fix all that before honoring a IP claim.

That said even with my Bill Heath kit I still carry a spare, I don't like walking and not many folks shelf item a PMD anymore.

TDG, can you explain what you mean when you say set the return oil to spec?


Thanks,
Dan

I missed this also until reread; of what return oil do you speak here.

.... There is merit to my remedies as well, set the return oil to top spec to keep the pump/driver cool and it will last.

Return FUEL Oil. The rate that the injection pump returns fuel to the tank. Determined by vent wire + internal leakage.

What is the lower and upper flow rate limit, and how does the upper rate effect foaming in the fuel tank in warm-to-hot weather?
Always a problem down here.

Another poor design weakness in the pump. A large percentage of the fuel in the pump gets recirculated to the inlet side. It then stays in the pump housing keeping it hot. Most IP's send this "spent" fuel back to the tank. The IP pressure is regulated at the outlet so to speak, where most IP's the pressure is regulated at the inlet before going into the pump.
The recirculation is probably good for cold climates and reduces filter useage, as the fuel does not have to be refiltered.

To increase return rate you could also remove the checkball in the connector on top of the pump. In most cases the connector which controls housing pressure is not needed. (Connector is the return fitting on top of the pump.)

The mods of which you speak TDG are they something Joe Average can do to improve bypass fuel return rate, I'd be willing to bet you have to be "in the business" to do this, far beyond the scope of what most us have facilities for. I'm glad you seem to have found a fix that works for you, have you shared these revalations with Stanadyne or GM so the rest of the 6.5 Diesel world can benefit.

For now practicality wise since you are now really a CDG and not a TDG location hard for me to visit to get an IP tweaked to your "custom" set up. I'll have to settle on remote location FSD on a cooler plate.

Hey, you can take a Guy out of Texas but you can't take Texas out of him.
Isn't the vent wire on the inside of the pump in a threaded fitting? I think I remember it under the lid with the optical.

Wasn't implying that he wasn't a Texan, merely stating obvious; geography now is very prohibative to a shop visit.

Hey, you can take a Guy out of Texas but you can't take Texas out of him.

Isn't the vent wire on the side of the pump in a threaded fitting?

Problem fixed!...not sure how or why but I took the upper air feed to the intake from the turbo off. I then checked the harness connections on all of the components on the IP. Cranked it over and it fired. Put the cover back on and it is still running today.

Still seem to be getting a little air in the filter housing even after careful bleeding of the filter. Thankls for all the help and ideas. It is great to have a place where you can come and ask questions and get several ideas to try. You guys ROCK!

Bill