I just replaced my MEGA filter element for the first time....35k miles on the Baldwin filter. I had a tough time getting the element off (was on there for 2 years) but I got it off.

The silver nipple that screws into the filter mount AND filter came out with the filter. I was able to get it off the filter, but the pipe dope I used during the original install was pretty much dissolved and gone. I didn't have any more thread sealant with me so I cleaned it real well, screwed it back into the filter mount as tight as I could, and replaced the filter element.

1. Do I NEED thread sealant?
2. This was a pre-production unit. Do the production units have an o-ring between the filter mount and the threaded nipple? SPICER

Two years? OMG

Cut the can open for us,please!

Two years? OMG

Cut the can open for us,please!
I am cutting it open tonight. 2 yrs., 35k miles, ? gallons fuel filtered.

My MEGA filter was a pre-production unit and did not come with an O-ring to go between the filter mount and the nipple. I used pipe thread sealant in the original innstall. Now there is nothing on the nipple and no o-ring. SPICER

Arlen,
I use the #56521 Permatex High Performance Thread sealant. .
A little costly at $12 for a 1.7 oz. tube but this size will do a lot of threads. Diesel will not touch this stuff and the nipple wont back out when changing filters.

I would seal the threads between the nipple and the mount to make sure no fuel channels there. The filter internal post seal will take care of any channeling that may occur at the lower (filter) threads.

Arlen,
I use the #56521 Permatex High Performance Thread sealant. .
A little costly at $12 for a 1.7 oz. tube but this size will do a lot of threads. Diesel will not touch this stuff and the nipple wont back out when changing filters.

I would seal the threads between the nipple and the mount to make sure no fuel channels there. The filter internal post seal will take care of any channeling that may occur at the lower (filter) threads.
If I seal it, doesn't it need to be clean and dry (of diesel) before sealing it? According to Kennedy's instructions on his page it says it is not necessary to seal the threads but it helps to keep it from backing out at filter change. But he DOES say to use the 0-ring, which mine, as a pre-production unit, never had to begin with. SPICER

On another note, I cut open the old one. 35k miles, apx. 2000 gallons filtered, MEGA was a Secondary, not primary filter. I used a sawsall to open it. The paper is a brown paper, unlike the white paper in the OE.

I expected the BOTTOM filter paper to be dark because the filter is like the OE as it runs probably 2/3 empty. If you have ever opened an OE it will show dark banding in the bottom 1/3rd of the filter (unless you have a lift pump) because the vacuum style fuel pump leaves the filter partially empty, so the top of the filter stays clean.

I removed a large section of the paper and opened it up like an accordian. I held it up to the light and the color was UNIFORM top to bottom. I could see no distinguishable dirt pattern on it other than a LITTLE blemishing along the INSIDE seams in the accordian. I was amazed at how clean it was, and at how BEEFY this filter is. I am sure this filter could have stayed on. It is designed to filter a LOT of fuel. I changed it because it had been on for 2 years. My primary filters always show dirty. I am pleased with the filter, I just hope I don't have to take it off again to seal those threads! SPICER

Just my opinion but when filters are tightened the threads do not tighted in a sealing fashion. The only thing that causes the filter to tighten is gasket contact which will also side load the threads instead of tightening them like a tapered (NPT) thread actually tightens. This could allow fluid to channel around and around the threads in a circular pattern (following the threads) untill the uncleaned portion of fuel reaches the clean side. The dirtier the filter media gets the worse the bypassing can become as diffriential increases. Issue or not, not exactly sure as the filter is secondary. The upper threads do have a flange type lip that snugs down when tightening but it would have to be cut very true as it is a metal to metal seal consisting of hard non crushing metals and we are talking 1 micron filtration. The lower filter threads are covered from leakage by the internal post nipple seal that is in the filter. Another thing to consider is the fact that you don't want to be screwing and unscrewing the upper threads as it can produce metal fines that we are unable to see but the injectors may not like.

Like I said it may not be a big issue to not seal the upper threads and maybe John can elaborate on this but I decided to seal my threads so everything is guaranteed to be 100% sealed, that nipple stays put for the life of the filter and to give a better piece of mind to my over anal self as nothing is left to chance. :)

On edit: I'm not supprised that this filter easily passed 35K/2000 gals. Being designed for heavy duty machinery I'm sure it sees a lot more fuel in its designed application even as a primary. This is truely an overkill filter that has proven to be very economical and delivers excellant results.

I have found that when changing some the nipple has come off as well, When I installed mine, I used red locktite on the nipple and so far so good, but I dont know if that is recommended. I've only ever changed mine once so far too in the 40k miles it been on...

That's good news Spicer. I was considering changing my MEGA, got about 32,000 miles on it, also as a secondary. Guess I'm gonna have to wait a couple more years.............

That's good news Spicer. I was considering changing my MEGA, got about 32,000 miles on it, also as a secondary. Guess I'm gonna have to wait a couple more years.............
Me too!:exactly:

Loctite is fine, but you will never get the nipple out (not that you'd really need to) at a later time. About the only reason would be if you install the air bleed orafice.

My only caution when running long term on a filter is that you should occasionally drain some off of the bottom to ensure that there is no free water that could rust the can.

Loctite is fine, but you will never get the nipple out (not that you'd really need to) at a later time. About the only reason would be if you install the air bleed orafice.

My only caution when running long term on a filter is that you should occasionally drain some off of the bottom to ensure that there is no free water that could rust the can.
John, please respond to my original problem..........My nipple came off when removing the filter, mine is pre-production and has no o-ring, and I had no thread sealer.

1)Do I need to remove the filter and seal the threads?
2)Do I need to get some o-rings from you?
3)If I remove the new filter and seal the threads, does the filter mount need to be 100% dry of diesel?(It is mounted in the ususal place and hard to get dry).
4)If I remove the new filter, can it be re-used or will I be depositing thread shavings into the filter's clean side? Thanks...SPICER

The original did not have the means to accept an oring. The oring was added primarily to eliminate any sealer and the risk of someone getting sloppy and having junk floating around. I use a rubber strap wrench to tighten a clean dry nipple, and they seldom iff ever back out.

If you'd like to ensure that the nipple does not back out, I'd pull it apart, clean and dry all threads, and put some loctite in them, then re-install securely. Otherwise, I'd just wait till next filter service

The lights are on but there's nobody home. :rolleyes: