Hi, I am new to this site, And in need for help, hoping someone can help me.

I own a 1999 gmc sierra 3/4 ton with a 6.5 L engine, automatic transmission. when I start up the engine, it will run rough till it warms up.

outside temp 20c (70f).

I also get erratic fuel pedal response, during acceleration, full fuel till next shift, no fuel. fuel, no fuel etc.

when engine warms up, i'ts not noticeable while acceleration up hill, just during slight down grade, or on a strait.

I've testing glow plugs, wires, glow plug controller. all ok
i've check to see if coolant was building pressure during cold start up, it was not, so I figure the engine block is not crack.

oil level is ok. no coolant in oil.

Diagnostic Checklist

1. Does the engine crank, or 'turn over'?

yes

1a. Does the engine start and run?

yes

1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & the amount of time (seconds) lit.

yes

1c. Ambient Condition (temperature outside indicate F or C) _____ °

70f or 20c

1d. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer).

I will have to recheck that to give you a accurate answer, I don't want to guess. (all i know i't take's longer to start then normal.)

1e. Are you experiencing stalling?

nope, but rough idle during start up, sounds like it wants to stall but doesn't.

1h. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. Cone filters have lost disk and stopped air to turbo.

I will double check but I had put a new air filter before this started to happen.

1.1 Lift pump test (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39350)- describe results

How do I test the lift pump ?

2. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent

intermittent

2a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes/No

yes

3. Model year

1999

3a. Odometer reading (indicate if in miles or km)

310,000 km's

3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump)

never

3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......)

don't know. where can I find that, at what location on the pump?

4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) yes/no

yes

5. List exact results on engine codes (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/dtc.php):

no engine codes
1 transmission code p1870 for transmission slippage

6. Air Filter condition (visual check)

good

7. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed/condition unknown/mileage since changed)

4,000 km's since changed

8. Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened)

cleaned and tightened.

8a. Known condition and age of the batteries.

november 2007

8b. Are batteries of differing age or are they a matched set?

matched set

8c. Condition of Major Grounds (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157085). (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened)

all battery grounds are ok, engine grounds have not check.

9. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/no

never done this test

10. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/no

no

11. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts?

longer then normal

12. Have you used the block heater, and does this effect engine starting?(only try for starting problems)

yes, engine starts faster and not as rough.

13. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/no

yes, but not excessive. blue and black smoke.

14. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues?

just blue and black during start up.

15. Turbo check out (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39368)- pass/fail

how do i test turbo?

16. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit)

don't know . I will find out.

17. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD.

2500

18. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-diesel, #2 Diesel, #1Diesel, SVO/WVO, other

low sulfar diesel

19. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list.

no

20. Please indicate geographic region you are in: (example: Texas or Canada)

nova scotia, canada

21. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having?

nope

22. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better.

none

23. Upon unscrewing the fuel cap (http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42338), do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? yes/no

I will find out

24. Location of PMD/FSD (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39436)? On the pump/remoted over intake/remoted out of engine bay (please specify placement specifically)

is that the injection pump computer?

24a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from a vendor?)

Don't know will find out.

24b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire.

where is that located?

25. Are ALL glow plugs in proper working order as per this thread (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39182)?

yes.

i've just done some more test,

1d = engine cranking speed? 800 rpm

1e = are you experiencing stalling? no

1h = check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions, none. ok

1.1 = lift pump test results ? good. ok

9 = upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? no

11 = do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts ? yes

15 = turbo check out - pass / fail ? pass

16 = do you have an egr on the engine ? no

23 = upon unscrewing the fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank ? yes or no. no

24 = location of pmd / fsd ? i'ts located on the pump..
part #345830375139

24b = indicate the location and condition of the fsd / ip grounding wire.
good, ok.



just to update did not see any blue smoke, just black smoke.

need help on a couple of things.


where is the model number located on the injection pump. all i could find it was the name, think it was stananadyne.

and how many engine grounds are there and where would they be all located. thanks

ok, i'm hoping someone can help me out, I just hope with all the info i put recent did not confuse everyone.

here is what as been happening.


during cold start up. 70f (20c) engine runs rough with puffs of black smoke. and during exceleration in neutral I see black smoke.


the engine as 307,000km's. no engine work as ever been done to it.

I believe i'ts gotta be a fuel problem.

going down the highway, and I am excellerating, there is no hesitation in the engine.

but for a example,

I am driving down the highway with my foot on the fuel pedal at 50%, and the road is level strait or a slight decline, I can watch the engine rpm jump like from 1800 rpm to 500 rpm back to 1500 rpm. till when i need to excellerate more to go up a hill.


I am hoping what I've put here this time, there may be someone who can help me out.

and I was also wondering if anyone knows if there is anyway in testing fuel injectors for 1999 6.5 L.

thanks,

Check the fuel pressure of LP by putting a pressure gauge on the t-valve. You should get at least 4 psi steady. Check all the grounds to the block.

Sounds like two separate problems.

Rough startup symptoms can be attributed to glowplugs. Verify by disconnecting each glowplug wire and measuring resistance between glowplug and engine block. Each plug should measure about 1.4 ohms.

RPM fluxuation could be the torque converter clutch being locked and unlocked by the computer. All perfectly normal. Verify with a Tech 2 scanner.

Sounds like two separate problems.

Rough startup symptoms can be attributed to glowplugs. Verify by disconnecting each glowplug wire and measuring resistance between glowplug and engine block. Each plug should measure about 1.4 ohms.


i thought of this as well but was told that the ohm test will just tell you that the element inside the glow plug had totally failed. i was told that you have to remove the glow plugs and see where they glow. if the glow in just the center its bad, just the tip its bad, if it glows from tip to center its good.

sounds like it could be the fuel delivery solenoid if the glow plugs are good or app (accelerator pedal potentiometer)

i've just tested lift pump pressure i am getting between 8 to 10 lbs. so that's good.

i've already check glow plugs, they all turned out to be good, and with the summer weather we are having now, i can't see glow plugs being a problem.

how could I test the fuel delivery solenoid?, is it built into the injection pump. if it fails do i need to replace the injection pump?

i didn't have any engine fault codes.

i'm in the process of taking the exterior parts on top of the engine to get to the injection pump to do any further test.

he guys i just re-check the wastegate on the turbo. when i started the truck cold start. it was rough idle. i tryed pushing the wastegate rod down and was able to do it with some tension. and when i shut the truck off. i did not see the wastegate rod come out, had to give it a little tap to make it come out.

now when i started the truck up. it was not as rough.

do i do a vacuum test somewhere to determine i'ts the wastegate or can it be the vanes in the turbo etc..?

T check vac, unhook line going into wg sol. Hook vac gauge up there and see if there's vac, if not, it's either your lines to sol or vac pump. If there is, disconnect line to wg servo from sol, and hook gauge up there. If no vac is present, it's either the sol or lines from sol to servo. If there is, you either have no problem, or the servo's bad.

If you're having trouble with the vanes in the turbo, you're in some sort of trouble the likes of which I've never seen, as these do not have a VGT/VVT turbo.

Before you even think TurboCharger, troubleshoot the rest of the system thoroughly.
Off the top of my head, I dont have access to my manuals presently.

Following steps are performed with engine "OFF."

Check: All vacuum lines and connections, check for kinks, restrictions, cracks, splits, holes, ect.

CHECK: WasteGate Valve (WGV). With WGA connected, ensure WGV moves relatively free and isn't binding throughout its travel (approx 90 degrees). If binding, lightly oil WGV and cycle repeatedly until travel becomes smooth.
If in dought, pull the E-Clip off the WGA rod and remove WGA rod from WGV. With the WGA rod disconnected, the WGV should move freely. If WGV checks OK, reconnect WGA rod.

CHECK: The WasteGate Actuator (WGA).
Remove vacuum line from WGA and extend WGA rod fully. Using a vacuum tester, apply 15" of vacuum. Check to ensure WGA rod fully retracts and that the WGA doesn't leak (holds vacuum). Then slowly release the vacuum, around 5" vacuum the WGA Rod should begin to extend slightly without any assistance. If the WGA leaks down or doesnt retract fully or extend slightly as described, replace WGA. If WGA checks OK, reconnect vacuum line.
CHECK: At the WGS, disconnect the WGA circuit (rear port). Apply 15" vaccuum to the WGA circuit (vacuum line), if it holds, reconnect WGA circuit to WGS. If the vacuum bleeds (leaks) off, check WGA circuit (vacuum line) and all related connections.

Following steps are with engine "ON" (running).
CHECK: Vacuum Pump. Remove the source from WGS circuit (front port, usually an orange hose) or solinoid bank, check for 20" vacuum from source (vacuum pump). If so proceed to next step. If not, check vacuum pump, rubber supply hose and clamps and primary vacuum line (orange) and tees, couplings ect for leaks, cracks, splits, kinks, breaks, restrictions ect . If no leaks are found in the circuit and the vacuum pump isnt producing 20" vacuum at idle, replace vacuum pump.
Check for 15" vacuum at the WGA. If you have 15" vacuum at the WGA, TurboCharging system checks OK. If not check WGS.

CHECK: WasteGate Solinoid.
CHECK: WGS electrical connections and wiring harness for faulty connection or damage.
CHECK: Connect vacuum gauge at WGA, you should have 15" vacuum at the WGA. Then disconnect the wire connecting the WGS while also observing the vacuum gauge, the vacuum should drop rapidly. If vacuum doesn't drop rapidly, the WGS filter is clogged. If clogged replace WGS. If vacuum drops rapidly, and theres 15" vacuum at the WGA with electric connected, chances are the WGS is good.

NOTE: Ensure all Solinoids (WGS, AND EGR1 and EGR2 if equipped) are connected properly. The front port(s) is source (vacuum pump), rear port(s) is actuator or device (EGR).

Diagnostic Aides: When troubleshooting the Turbo Circuit and/or EGR circuit. I find it easier to isolate suspect circuit by capping off the source to the opposing circuit and vice versa.

If Ive forgotten something or misspoke, Im sure someone will correct me and/or fill in the missing blanks.

Hey. I'm having the same symptoms with my truck. (98 6.5) Starts fine but very rough, black smoke immediately on start, idles fine after about 30 seconds of warm up, constant clouds of black smoke while driving untill it reaches full temp at which point there is much less smoke, rpm up and down every few seconds while driving untill reaches full tempurature. I dont have much experience with diesel engines. but most of what I have read so far is pointing to a lack of compression. I'm not sure where to get a compression test for it. also I have a lot of oil on the passenger side of the engine, though I cant make out where it is coming from.

hey guys, just wanted to give a update. I replace the head gaskets, both cylinder heads failed a pressure test. they were both crack. so i replace the cylinder heads. also put new injectors and glow plugs.

I still don't have the exhaust manifolds or turbo charger on it yet. but I still notice the same problem. the rough idle. bad fuel responce till engine warms up.

when leaving the driveway. and foot on the fuel pedal. it would just rock the hell out of me in the driver seat. once engine is warm I have better fuel control.


within the next couple of weeks I should have the manifolds and turbo etc.. all on.

you said in an earlier post that the cooling system was NOT pressurized so no concern w/cooling system. how did yougo from the turbo problems to replacing head gaskets and cracked heads?
w/the exhaust manifolds and turbo not on the truck, it may run funny (loud as hell, to be sure).
did you resolve the turbo issues?
jon

i had tested the vacuum pump for the turbo. and it was alright. and also tested the wastegate , it turned out to be alright.


reason for removing heads was that i had broke off a glow plug flush in the head. so after removing the head. I had notice cracks. so i had it pressurized and it failed. both of them failed.

i have the same symptoms you do, in addition i have a very quick throttle from idle to 2000 rpms is like 1/8" on the pedal, i was told its caused by wear inside the IP. However you need to do ALL other checks before buying a IP and make sure its not something else. also check codes with a code reader capable of reading the data stream it will give you more info.
you should check vacumn, fuel, electrical systems completely.

I heard that black smoke can be caused by excessive exhaust back pressure so I pulled off the CAT. (first time I have actually heard the turbo whine up since I got it.) so I am assuming my cat is plugged. I am still getting quite a bit of black smoke at the moment but I'm hoping it's because I am running straight diesel supplement instead of fuel.(trying to clean it out)
as for the surging i am going to try a new accelerator pedal.