Ok I made 3 sets today. First of all stainless is tough!!!!!! I went through 2 5/8" bits today(at $17.48 a piece!). I doubt anyone could ever snap these. Your tailgate would warp first or you'd pull the mount points out of the sheet metal first.


These are 100% stainless except for 2 items. The teflon washer in between the two halves and instead of the cotter pin, I went with axle caps. The cotter pin just looked cheesy to me, plus these 'hats' once on are a bear to remove, although they are removable.


The downside though, these are going to rub and scratch paint. There just simply is no way around this I can think ofhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif. I'm going to try coating these Monday, but eventually under a lot of use even that will likely wear away. The option of a foam type tape is possible since it can be changed under wear, but is not quite as professional as I had hoped. There is simply no choice in this matter than I can currently see do the nature of the pivot. See one contact point for yourself: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/EB1_DCP_0777e1.jpg


Also inside the door jamb(bed side) you will receive a scratch from closing and/or swinging motion. I attempted to photograph the damage but just couldn't pick up enough detail with my camera.


Here is what they look like in a final product(sans spring clip which I haven't attached yet)


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/7B2_DCP_0774e1.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/984_DCP_0775e1.jpg





I do have 2 other sets completed. I will still offer them up to Hoot and Mobowhunter for their testing/feedback if they're interested. I have stated all foreseen damage these can cause. One nick spot on the tailgate and one scratch on the bed jamb.


You could at your discretion add a protective material to these two points, or not. This damage although minimal will happen if you don't cover these areas in some fashion or another.


On the upside, they work extremely well and look pretty nice(IMHO).


They are extremely strong. The damage these will cause unprotected is still less than a creased tailgate or a busted ATV/Motorcycle whatever.


At this point I'm going to stop working on these full boar. While overall I believe I was successful, I'm at a point where it's up to the end user to decide which way they want to go.


I will still make these sets for those who still may want them(not stocked but as a per order basis). At this point I'm over two hundred into this project and with the latest revelation I cannot continue to invest more into these since I forsee no way to eliminate this issue(other than the protecting the possible touch areas which I will leave to the end user to decide what's easiest for them).


Th

If you're looking for something that will protect the paint, we use this 3M stuff at work that's like .030" thick and it's clear. It's called UHMW polyethelene (ultra-high molecular weight).


It has an adhesive on one side. Steel will NOT cut into this stuff, and we use it were steel rubs on paint. It really works well.


Unfortunately, I'm at home, and I don't have the stuff to look up what it is right now. I could probably get you some 2" wide strips if you're insterested in trying something like that...


cadman_ks

I know most metal shops have Punch Presses.


A punch Press would pop thru that stainless like a hole puncher thru paper.


Just thinking aloud.





Thttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gifNY

Cadman,


That sounds like it may just be the ticket. If you can get me a product number, sample, whatever I'd be much appreciative.





GMC,


I did get some quotes for machining. The labor cost for initial setup, runoff and finish work is ungodly in small quantities. This would drive the price up quite a bit. It is an option if I was having 200 sets made, but at this point, with it's one drawback about bumping I really don't know how many of these I'll end up producing. Should these really take off I'll have to farm out this work at that point, I just don't have that much free time.

From that top view it's possible that a curved strap may eliminate the interference. A curve that matches the curve of the back edge.
http://dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/EB1_DCP_0777e1.jpg

Then you definately would have to get them stamped.

Do all your prototyping with thin aluminum. Even thin enough to cut with tin snips.Edited by: hoot

Hoot,


While a good suggestion, I don't think even the curved piece would help. The weight of straps is what folds them, and as the angle of the gate changes during closing there will still be interference. On the older trucks the tailgates were flatter/rounder. This odd bend is what the killer is. Gravity has to be used for closing.


Unless I'm missing really obvious here, I think this is one of those things that we may to have patch for(protection) or stay with the good old cables.

Cadman,


That sounds like it may just be the ticket. If you can get me a product number, sample, whatever I'd be much appreciative.


Victory,

I'll look that up on Monday. I'm pretty sure that we have information on what it is...

cadman_ks

Victory Red,


Try using some soldering flux on those bits while drilling stainless. It will keep them cooler and will last longer.

Victory,


You have PM regarding the tape, and your address...


cadman_ks

Thanks much Cadman!!!!!!!!!!!