I've gotten the trans built and installed, the truck is running great! I don't have a way to reset the TAPS, is it going to hurt the trans if I drive it easy and slowly let the trans learn? I drove it home and took it easy on the truck, still shifts smooth, the 4-5 was kinda rough and the 5-4 was really rough but its starting to smooth out. When the TC locks it 5th you really feel it!

Go out and do a lot of stop-n-go driving. The more shifts it makes, the faster it'll learn, also include tow haul in the learning process. The Allison has what they call "adaptive learning" that means it's constantly learning both good and bad habbits.

If your trans was in relatively good working order before the SC IV install than chances it'll be fine in time. Re-learn isn't always necessary but usually required on a totally KOed unit.

Got another question. The truck has been getting moody about shifting into drive, It will take about 4 seconds, then you can feel it trying to put itself in gear, then it pops out of gear and the DIC says shift range inhibited while the gear indicator blinks. What would cause this and how can I fix it?

mine did that twice. it was a fluid level issue

Yeah, mine did that too. Ended up being a sticky valve. Check the obvious first. Scan the codes and post up what you find.

It limped the first time I put it in tow haul, limited to 3rd and reverse with a p0700 and p0732, I know the 732 is second gear incorrect ratio. I cleared those codes and its worked fine sense. I'll check the fluid level and see were its at. It was at about 3/4 up the full hot mark after the first test drive. There are no codes when it won't go into drive and the DIC says shift range inhibited.

Just took the truck for a spin to get it up to operating temp, let it idle for 5 mins then checked the fluid. Its still at the same place it was when we built it, 3/4 of the way into the full hot mark. Trans temp was about 160 when I checked it.

I'm guessing I probably have something in the valve body from when the trans died. We didn't touch the valve body when we built the trans b/c it already had the transgo jr in it.

Just took the truck for a spin to get it up to operating temp, let it idle for 5 mins then checked the fluid. Its still at the same place it was when we built it, 3/4 of the way into the full hot mark. Trans temp was about 160 when I checked it.

I'm guessing I probably have something in the valve body from when the trans died. We didn't touch the valve body when we built the trans b/c it already had the transgo jr in it.

You got it. Bet you have a stuck valve in there.

Yeah, I'm gunna pull it tomorrow. Its getting harder to put into drive every time I drive it.

I pulled the pan and the suction filter fell out. I talked to Mike L and he said that could cause the problem. I put a new allison filter in it b/c the one that came with the SC kit would fall out with just gravity. Long story short its still doing the same thing.

Next I'm going to pull out the valve body and check everything out to make sure its clean. Mike said it could also be some dirt stuck in the screens on the solenoids. I'll post up with what I find.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out Mike.

wtf did you do to the truck to make the c-1's look that way. and warp the steels. hoyl crap. doin major burn outs:D

If you do not find anything wrong with the Valve Body.. Check the Tone Wheel on the Rotating Clutch..

I was filtering the fluid from my drain pan back into jugs to put it back in the trans and I found this (in photos) What is it and where does it go? Its a small cone shaped screen.

That's found in the upper half of the valve body.

B trim solenoid filter. That needs to go back in, but it's not your problem.

That's found in the upper half of the valve body.


So if this thing was floating around loose it could have caused a restriction lowering pressure enough to prevent the truck from engaging in gear?

I hope to god its that simple. I really don't wanna pull the trans again.

B trim solenoid filter. That needs to go back in, but it's not your problem.

D@mn, oh well looks like I'm still pulling the trans. Thanks Mike.

You only need to drop the VB to replace the B trim filter. While your in there might as well take a look at the entire VB and clean as necessary.

You only need to drop the VB to replace the B trim filter. While your in there might as well take a look at the entire VB and clean as necessary.

Already had it dropped, I think thats how the filter came out. There was no dirt in the VB at all, just on top of it. Everything is cleaned now. Once I pull the VB yet again And put this thing in I'm just hoping by some form of FM it works. If not I need to pull the trans and look inside the drum thats housing the C1 and C2 clutches and see whats going on in there.

The filter fits between the two halves of the VB before it gets bolted together and installed. Take something that will not scratch the valves and move them all back and forth on the bench and make sure they feel smooth prior to putting the two halves back together.

The filter fits between the two halves of the VB before it gets bolted together and installed. Take something that will not scratch the valves and move them all back and forth on the bench and make sure they feel smooth prior to putting the two halves back together.

X2. REEEAAALLLYYY smooth. Trust me, I had to take my VB out a few times and polish one of the valves. Just when you think its moves smooth enough, make it a little smoother.

X2. REEEAAALLLYYY smooth. Trust me, I had to take my VB out a few times and polish one of the valves. Just when you think its moves smooth enough, make it a little smoother.

Got the screen back in and took it for a test spin. Everything works the same as it did before. It goes through all the gears perfectly fine. But once its warmed up if I take it out of drive I can't get it to re-engage into drive unless I rev the truck a little. Next step is to hook up a pressure gauge to the trans and see if the pump is putting out the pressure. If it is then its between the pump and the C1 apply piston.

I'm going op hook up the gauge tomorrow after work and I'll be pulling the trans back out Friday.

If your losing pressure you may also want to look at the front gaskets between the belhousing and transmission. Make sure they are install properly and not blocking any holes. Also check the seal rings on the inputshaft and make sure none of them got knocked out of place when putting the bellhousing and stator support back in place. The pressure feed for C1 and C2 run through the input and if the seal are out of place or broken that could be your issue.

If your losing pressure you may also want to look at the front gaskets between the belhousing and transmission. Make sure they are install properly and not blocking any holes. Also check the seal rings on the inputshaft and make sure none of them got knocked out of place when putting the bellhousing and stator support back in place. The pressure feed for C1 and C2 run through the input and if the seal are out of place or broken that could be your issue.

I'm going to be looking at everything when I pull it apart. Going to hook up the gauge just to give me and idea where to start looking. In my mind I don't think its a gasket b/c it engages into reverse flawlessly. So I know the C2's get the proper pressure just not the c1's. Could a gasket cause that?

The front gaskets have the holes to allow the fluid to both C1 and C2 . So if one is blocked, Yep. My guess since you say it's good when cold that something might be misaligned or a seal ring damaged as some fluid is getting to it. BTW reverse uses C3 & C5 not C2.

The front gaskets have the holes to allow the fluid to both C1 and C2 . So if one is blocked, Yep. My guess since you say it's good when cold that something might be misaligned or a seal ring damaged as some fluid is getting to it. BTW reverse uses C3 & C5 not C2.

I learn something new every day, lol. I'll let you guys know how it goes when I pull it out.

We did a 6 speed that had C1's welded together. Upon disassembling the C1 drum, we found the C1 piston seal torn badly. Did you inspect the C1 assembly on the build, if not make take a look there.

We did a 6 speed that had C1's welded together. Upon disassembling the C1 drum, we found the C1 piston seal torn badly. Did you inspect the C1 assembly on the build, if not make take a look there.

We didn't tear it down that far, thats one of the things we will be looking at. Probably gunna be the same problem. How much did you end up spending on a piston?

Was just the outer seal ring that goes on the C1 clutch piston. Allison part#29542809 ($4.00)

We also replaced the C1 balance piston just in case # 29542815 ($12.00)

Was just the outer seal ring that goes on the C1 clutch piston. Allison part#29542809 ($4.00)

We also replaced the C1 balance piston just in case # 29542815 ($12.00)

That's what I'm suspecting is wrong.

Was just the outer seal ring that goes on the C1 clutch piston. Allison part#29542809 ($4.00)

We also replaced the C1 balance piston just in case # 29542815 ($12.00)

Thats a little more reasonable, I got a quote form the Alli dealer on the C1 balance piston just to see what I'd be looking at if it was bad. He said it retails for $900 and he'd sell it to me at cost $600. I'm sure he looked up the wrong part number after seeing this Thanks!

Thats a little more reasonable, I got a quote form the Alli dealer on the C1 balance piston just to see what I'd be looking at if it was bad. He said it retails for $900 and he'd sell it to me at cost $600. I'm sure he looked up the wrong part number after seeing this Thanks!

Heck I'll give you a heck of a deal 400.00 shipped!:D

He must of made a mistake. Give him the part#'s. These are for the 6 speed as there are different part#'s for the 5 speeds. Depending on the heat involved, you may want to replace the inner teflon seal and the bearing while your in there.

Bench pressure check the rotating assembly before re-assembling the trans.

More than likely your alli guy got the part# for the C1 Balance piston messed up.. A complete Rotating Clutch assembly w/o PTO is Part# 29545812 :) If you notice the 5 and 2 are switched..

More than likely your alli guy got the part# for the C1 Balance piston messed up.. A complete Rotating Clutch assembly w/o PTO is Part# 29545812 :) If you notice the 5 and 2 are switched..

Thats what happened. I ordered both parts just to have them on hand incase I do wind up needing them. 15 bucks total for both and a 25 buck freight charge to have them overnighted.

Got the trans pulled and torn down. I couldn't get my hands on a pressure guage see if the pump is putting hte presure out. But I took the c1 apply piston out. It looks ok, but when I pulled it out there was a 6 inch rubber string in with the springs. I'm guessing thats my problem. I tried to call Mike L. but I think his shop was closed. I'm picking up the parts tomorrow.

Mike, would I be able to call you on your cell tomorrow? I can either pm you my cell number or you could pm me yours. Thanks for the help guys!

I found out what the piece of rubber was from. Its the outer seal to the c1 piston.

Got the trans pulled and torn down. I couldn't get my hands on a pressure guage see if the pump is putting hte presure out. But I took the c1 apply piston out. It looks ok, but when I pulled it out there was a 6 inch rubber string in with the springs. I'm guessing thats my problem. I tried to call Mike L. but I think his shop was closed. I'm picking up the parts tomorrow.

Mike, would I be able to call you on your cell tomorrow? I can either pm you my cell number or you could pm me yours. Thanks for the help guys!

310 918 9678

I found out what the piece of rubber was from. Its the outer seal to the c1 piston.

When the C1 clutches wore out it created way too much clearance in the clutchpack causing the C1 piston seal to come out of its bore. When it tried to return back down the bore it cut the seal on the bore edge.

When the C1 clutches wore out it created way too much clearance in the clutchpack causing the C1 piston seal to come out of its bore. When it tried to return back down the bore it cut the seal on the bore edge.

Yeah, Nothing was melted at all, just half of the seal came out. I'm just waiting on parts so I can start putting it back together.

I was going to call b/c I couldn't figure out how to get the C1 piston out, but after staring at it and the ATSG for a while I figured it out. The inner teflon seal still looks great. Anything else I should look at while I have it apart?

Thanks for all the help!

Installed both the Outer C1 piston seal and a new balancer piston. Truck works great now! I need to reset my 4-5 tap in normal mode b/c it slams and after 20-30 times though that shift it hasn't gotten any better. I Have t/h mode learned up to 75% throttle and it shifts really smooth. The 1054 locks up pretty smoth, only a small jolt is felt when it locks.

Thanks to everyone for helping me figure this problem out and thanks Mike L for taking the time to talk me through it on the phone.