Just installed my new Labonte water meth system today...All i can say is wow! lowered my EGT's 200 degrees, and gave me some real nice noticeable power! have to get it dynoed again. Very happy with the results!

Thanks for the feedback, glad you liked the system.

Best regards,

Dan

higest EGT so far, 1424, and beating on it all night tonight, i couldnt get it over 1344:D! SWEET!

I think Bob has become an alcoholic!

I think Bob has become an alcoholic!
you just wait till you get yours:D you'll see. I love this truck!

Nice results. I think I'm gonna have to do something like this soon.

higest EGT so far, 1424, and beating on it all night tonight, i couldnt get it over 1344:D! SWEET!

Good deal, could you share for others what you are using for injection fluid.

Best regards,

Dan

peak good to -25

PEAK, good to -20

can everyone else share what they are using, and what experience they have with different brands.

I guess Peak is the fav here! I spray Peak good to 0 only 10%.

If i leave this on all the time, will it hurt anything? I cant seem to turn it off!:D

If i leave this on all the time, will it hurt anything? I cant seem to turn it off!:D
People tow with it all the time, up & down hills, off and on. I just got it for 1/4 passes. Ok maybe on the street to every now and then:rolleyes:.

People tow with it all the time, up & down hills, off and on. I just got it for 1/4 passes. Ok maybe on the street to every now and then:rolleyes:.
how much did it help with your 1/4 passes?

how much did it help with your 1/4 passes?
Dont know yet havent been to the track, when I do will post my results.

Dont know yet havent been to the track, when I do will post my results.
did you ever dyno it with and without the w/m?

did you ever dyno it with and without the w/m?
Nope, Sorry

Did your controller have a pressure hose that your have to connect to the intake? if so did you drill and tap a fitting?

Did your controller have a pressure hose that your have to connect to the intake? if so did you drill and tap a fitting?
No, I have a SD Manifold, just used there nipple they sent and put it in my manifold

On RJWIII's and mine I drilled and tapped a hole just before the injectors and put in a brass fitting with a hose barb, works great. You can route all of your hoses together than also.

anyone know how to remove the nozzle out of the 90 degree fitting? took it out of the boost tube and the little filters are all the way loose inside, but cant get it out.

got it

only difference between the +20 and -20 is the methanol concentration correct? -20 would yield more power but +20 would have more of an impact on egt's. am i correct?

can i expect bent rods again or are people considering this safe now? just curious cuz i don't have the funds for another engine but have always been interested in the egt benefits.

can i expect bent rods again or are people considering this safe now? just curious cuz i don't have the funds for another engine but have always been interested in the egt benefits.
im planning on just running straight distilled water. no methanol for me. raises CP, that could still lead to a cracked piston...

can i expect bent rods again or are people considering this safe now? just curious cuz i don't have the funds for another engine but have always been interested in the egt benefits.

how did adding water vapor to your combustion chamber bend your rods? or did you have a problem?

how did adding water vapor to your combustion chamber bend your rods? or did you have a problem?
no sorry to confuse you guys but i did dual cp3's and a a5k on stock internals. NOT good. I just don't want the same thing to happen again if i do water someday.

no sorry to confuse you guys but i did dual cp3's and a a5k on stock internals. NOT good. I just don't want the same thing to happen again if i do water someday.
Ouch :o:

no sorry to confuse you guys but i did dual cp3's and a a5k on stock internals. NOT good. I just don't want the same thing to happen again if i do water someday.

Yeesh.... I can see why you'd be wondering...

just gotta know--what is a a5k?

Bogger do you still have the CP3's if so what kind and would you be willing to sell it? Ok fandrew03 a A5K (Aurora 5000 turbo) is ATS Diesel Performance's biggest turbo they offer. And has any body tried Snow Performance Boost Juice 50/50 mix I run it in mine and wow does it give a good kick when i turn it on, I'm using 150 psi pump and twin 625ml/min nozzles combined total spray 1350ml/min and you can defintly tell when the boost hits the preset limit I have for it to inject

thanks

cp3's are long gone about a year ago

Shoot lol I wish I could have got to you first to get'em oh well lol

I forgot to post this awhile back, but the water/meth gave me 40 HP and 130 TQ with a size 8 and a size 12 nozzle. and that was with the banks and the superchip. Now that im running a hot EFI tune, I upgraded to a size 10 and a 14 injector. Next time i go to the dyno, I will see how much it gives me with the bigger nozzles. Now that Labonte has come out with a bigger pump, I may have to upgrade mine :D!

nice gains rj!
I gained almost the same numbers with the same nozzels.

Thanks! Cant wait to dyno it again! what kind of power you putting down to get those 1/4 mile times? Jus trying to get a feel for what I can do...:D

I've got almost 15,000 miles with h20/meth now. I use it pretty much all the time.

If you have the space and can find it, you can save some $$$ buying the meth by the drum. I'm paying $160 for 55 gallons.



I just wish I could find a BIG meth tank.

Yah, mine is on all the time too. By looking at your sig, and the amount of miles you have, you must haul loads across the states im guessing. If thats the case, you do need a big tank, and the 55 gallon methanol drum:DI just use blue washer fluid, and if im gonna go racing around or go to the dyno, I dump a bottle of the yellow heat for some extra meth:D

Thanks! Cant wait to dyno it again! what kind of power you putting down to get those 1/4 mile times? Jus trying to get a feel for what I can do...:D
530/989 for my 12.91 tune

sweet numbers! I see your in chandler...I grew up there, Dobson and warner! Small world

I forgot to post this awhile back, but the water/meth gave me 40 HP and 130 TQ with a size 8 and a size 12 nozzle. and that was with the banks and the superchip. Now that im running a hot EFI tune, I upgraded to a size 10 and a 14 injector. Next time i go to the dyno, I will see how much it gives me with the bigger nozzles. Now that Labonte has come out with a bigger pump, I may have to upgrade mine :D!

Those are some good gains if you are using just -20ish washer fluid. The new 250psi pump will result in better fluid atomization. You also can get more flow for larger nozzles. The 10 and 14 will about max out the capability of the 150 pumps.

Any install pics you can share?

Best regards,

Dan

Those are some good gains if you are using just -20ish washer fluid. The new 250psi pump will result in better fluid atomization. You also can get more flow for larger nozzles. The 10 and 14 will about max out the capability of the 150 pumps.

Any install pics you can share?

Best regards,

Dan

Im thinking of getting one of ya'll 250 pumps. Will it work with Snow`s system. Also I was pondering with the idea of mabey running the 250 pump on the 2 big nozzles and keep the 150 pump on the small nozzle.

I can see the 250 psi making more mist, but is that more enough to justify a 250 vs 150? I.e. is going from a 150 to 250 getting me say 10hp from same nozzles? Curious minds want to know. Thanks.

I would like to know also ---^

Im thinking of getting one of ya'll 250 pumps. Will it work with Snow`s system. Also I was pondering with the idea of mabey running the 250 pump on the 2 big nozzles and keep the 150 pump on the small nozzle.

Yes the 250 pump is compatible snow system, will flow two M14 nozzles no problem. What injection controller are you using? If it is one of our VC-100s that snow rebadged then yes it will drive two pumps (will have orange label on bottom) Don't know if their current knock off VC-100 will do multiple pumps.

Best regards,

Dan

I can see the 250 psi making more mist, but is that more enough to justify a 250 vs 150? I.e. is going from a 150 to 250 getting me say 10hp from same nozzles? Curious minds want to know. Thanks.

If you use more then thotal of M16 -M18 in nozzle on the 150pump, it will not be able to flow it and pressure will drop to 90psi. If you are making say 30psi of boost, then effective atomization pressure is 90-30, or only 60psi :eek:
One of the reasons we no longer sell the 150s in our systems.

Not sure how your nozzles are compared to snow. I have a 625, 375 (I think), and a 125 (I think), for about 1000-1100 total. Small is for MPG mode, and the other 2 are HP mode.

Yes the 250 pump is compatible snow system, will flow two M14 nozzles no problem. What injection controller are you using? If it is one of our VC-100s that snow rebadged then yes it will drive two pumps (will have orange label on bottom) Don't know if their current knock off VC-100 will do multiple pumps.

Best regards,

Dan

I dont know what injection controller I have. But this is what I was thinking. Running the power supply from the solenoid that supplies the two nozzle to the 250 pump. So when I hit the desired boost and the power will activate that solenoid and 250 pump.

Not sure how your nozzles are compared to snow. I have a 625, 375 (I think), and a 125 (I think), for about 1000-1100 total. Small is for MPG mode, and the other 2 are HP mode.

The flow number of those nozzles are rated at 60psi pump pressure. Our equivalent nozzles would be M14, M7 and M3. For flow rates an M14 will flow 14GPH at 100psi. At 250psi the M14 will flow 1400cc/min.

Here is what our nozzles look like:
http://www.labontemotorsports.com/store/media/ccp0/prodsm/nozzle_sm.jpg

I dont know what injection controller I have. But this is what I was thinking. Running the power supply from the solenoid that supplies the two nozzle to the 250 pump. So when I hit the desired boost and the power will activate that solenoid and 250 pump.

Can you describe what your controller looks like?

On our stage II systems (DIS-100 for example) the solenoid is wired in parallel with the pump like you describe.

Here it is. It has seperate wiring for each solenoid.

Can you describe what your controller looks like?

On our stage II systems (DIS-100 for example) the solenoid is wired in parallel with the pump like you describe.

Dont know why that pic didnt show up I post lil while back. O well here it is again.:rolleyes:

Along these thoughts, I was thinking of installing a "quick blast" button on the mpg/max kit.
Pulling a mountian with a trailer, and just need a littlte extra blast out of power mode to help egts, or want to really put the knock down on someone but dont have enough time to change the settings on the tuner/meth controller.
A push button, hold down to activate, let up its off.
Could it be done? A push button that bypasses the controller?

Sure, just run power to the pump? Might be an issues with feedback going from pump to cotroller? I.e. if you have a portable generator for your house, I don't think you can just plug it into a wall outlet and power the house by plugging into a house outlet. I think you have to isolate the outside power before plugging in to the house, not sure. This can be accomplished by putting in a relay to cut contorller power to pump while the other button is being pressed to power "burst mode". Then again, pump is cycled to varry flow, a 12 v boost would do full injection to nozzles vs. just a little more i.e. on full/off.
NOW, reading your post, if you want a boost from the power mode while using MPG mode, then it could be very simple! In my system, one pump feeds both nozzles, HP and MPG. I have a 2nd cylinoid blocking flow of water/meth to HP nozzles untill commanded by controller to open. So, if its injecting in MPG mode, its providing fluid to MPG AND HP nozzles at teh same time, but HP is blocked by cylinoid. Wire a 12v switch to HP cylinoid and the pump will flow to those nozzles as well as the MPG nozzles IF the pump is already flowing in MPG mode. knowing how the system injects though, it may not flow a lot. So, if you were injecting at 50% in the MPG mode then opening the nozzles in MPG and HP mode would be at 50% for all nozzles not 100% since the pump is being cycled by the controller to give 50% injection. If you run 12v straight to the pump, then you would have 100% injection to MPG and HP mode assuming you have the HP cylinoid open.
One thing to think about is...if you are in the MPG mode using a 100/200 ml nozzle injecting at say 50% then you must have light throttle going. Now, if you suddenly open all nozzles (MPG and 625ml or more HP nozzles) at part throttle, you may get quench and blow out the flame. I.e. I have 3 nozzles, 100ml MPG and HP is 625 and a 325 (i think). If I opened the HP nozzles and MPG nozzle at part throttle, I'd probably quench with 1000ml of fluid going in at part throttle. Now, if I ran the pump at 12 v/100% injection AND opened all nozzles for a "burst" I'd definately quency the flame front.
Also, I have two cylonoids for master off and one on HP mode so need to ensure any sylonoids are also powered to allow flow. With them closed and power to pump, unit will display an injection amount taking place, 80%, but the cylinoid will not be open and thus display is incorrect.
Just food for thought.

I was think of adding a 250 psi pump to supply just the 2 hp nozzles. I figure the hp solenoid when activated is commanded 100% open. Think I could run the 250 pumps power off the power supply of the hp solenoid.

Could do that, but not sure if the pump is flow through. I don't think one pump should feed the other. If the new/extra 250psi pump is not pumping i.e. no 12 volts supplied, then you may not get any fluid through it thus the normal HP mode commanded by the controller wouldn't function properly. If you have both pumps feeding the HP nozzles, but only one used by the "burst mode" commanded to pump when the cylinoid is powered, how will you get fluid to HP nozzles when the system is operating in normal mode which is MPG mode automatically switch to HP mode via the controller's programing? What I'm picturing you saying is after the primary pump install a "T" 1) one side of the "T" to MPG nozzles. 2nd side of "T" going to cylinoid then 2nd 250 psi pump, and then to HP nozzles. Don't think that would work.
I think you will have issues since:
If you use the 12v supply on the HP cylinoid to power 2nd 250 psi pump, then you will be flowing 100% fluid to HP nozzles and also some percentage via 150 psi pump to MPG nozzle all at part throttle. You might have quench. I know you want extra cooling in MPG mode when you press the "boost button", but you might inject too much.
Now, you could just remove the controller's wire to the HP cylinoid and leave it disconnected. Now the controller will only operate in MPG mode since the HP cylinoid will never open. THEN you could wire in the boost button to the cylinoid. This would allow you to open or close the HP nozzles on your command at any time and they would flow at some percentage commanded by the controller to the primary pump. If the primary pump is at 30% duty cycle and you press the boost button, it would feed the HP nozzles at 30% duty cycle also. This would also disable the controller's normal function of the HP nozzles. I would not do this method.
You could also leave system wired per factory directions with only the primary pump and HP cylinoid. THEN connect the boost button (12v) to the HP cylinoid. Thus when you press the button, would once again allow you to open or close the HP nozzles on your command at any time and they would flow at some percentage commanded by the controller to the primary pump. If the primary pump is at 30% duty cycle and you press the boost button, it would feed the HP nozzles at 30% duty cycle also. However, this would not disable the normal operation of the controller and normal HP mode would remain intact.
How about this:
"T" the supply line before any pumps.
1 outlet of the "T" goes to normal system 150 PSI pump and runs the system normally via the controller to funcition normally using MPG mode and HP mode and its cylinoid and the already existing HP and MPG nozzles. All is good as the factory designed it.
2nd end of the "T" goes to your new/250 psi pump and then to one new nozzle (maybe one big 625ml nozzle). Then wire the new pump to your boost button. Thus, activating the "boost button" will only require 12 volts to the extra pump via the "boost" toggle switch/button, not pump AND there is no cylinoid involved in the boost system. It only pumps at 100% and only pumps when commanded via button, doesn't try to pump through a pump that isn't running, or try to pump 250PSI by sucking through a 150PSI pump and IF you get quench, only have to play with one nozzle size to make it work thus not having to play with the normal MGP and HP nozzles being fed by the controller nore its cylinoids and such. Nice and simple addition to the already working and proven system.
This would only require you to purchase one additional nozzle to complement the 250psi pump and boost button you already have. Of course you'd also have to install the extra nozzle somewhere.

Yeah that was what I was thinking would work to T before the two pumps then the 250 pump supplies the 2 HP nozzles and the 150 supplies the MPG nozzle. I was looking at the wiring diagram and the power for the pump is tied into the MPG solenoid. Im just curious on if the 250 pump would work if the power supply was tied into the HP solonid.

Along these thoughts, I was thinking of installing a "quick blast" button on the mpg/max kit.
Pulling a mountian with a trailer, and just need a littlte extra blast out of power mode to help egts, or want to really put the knock down on someone but dont have enough time to change the settings on the tuner/meth controller.
A push button, hold down to activate, let up its off.
Could it be done? A push button that bypasses the controller?

This seems like a lot of run around. If the controller is EGT based I would expect it to keep them in check going up grades, else its not doing its job.

A relay to bypass the controller signal to pump and direct power to +12V would seem like a simple solution.

Yeah that was what I was thinking would work to T before the two pumps then the 250 pump supplies the 2 HP nozzles and the 150 supplies the MPG nozzle. I was looking at the wiring diagram and the power for the pump is tied into the MPG solenoid. Im just curious on if the 250 pump would work if the power supply was tied into the HP solonid.

You would need to ask snow what the current drive output is for the HP solenoid. Would need to be about 10amps min to drive pump, solenoid, and have margin for temp derating.

You would need to ask snow what the current drive output is for the HP solenoid. Would need to be about 10amps min to drive pump, solenoid, and have margin for temp derating.
Thanks.....Thats the kinda info I was looking for. Now I can look farther into this.

True, the egt mode works just fine for me. I'm not sure when it starts to inject, but I'm thinking it about 1,000-1,100. Since you can run the turbo all day at those safe temps, there would be no need for additional injection below those numbers. From my readings, the turbo should be fine to run 24/7 at 1,200 degrees. Personally, if I see 1,200 degrees I don't care. Only when I see 1,275 do I ensure things are injecting properly, which they are. I tow with my HP tune which runs hot the more pedal I put in, but when cruzing at Part Throttle, MPG is through the roof and thus run my race tune 99.5% of the time. Snow keeps the temp low enough to tow.
Why do you need a boost button in the first place?
IMHO, if you see 1,100 to 1,200 degrees and want to cool the EGT, you're wating fluid since 1,100-1,200 IMHO, is perfectly fine.